Thanks Harald.

EEVblog is very entertaining and informative. Dave's treatment of opamps is legendary.

Wooden cocktail stick or steel sewing needle: melt solder, poke through.

Looks like they're both available in the SoundForce shop.

donato wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 08, 2020 9:43 am

You may even be liable for paying import taxes again.

You should be able to mark a shipment "for repairs" and not be liable for duties a second time around.

1) 0.25W (1W will likely be too big to fit physically - electrically it makes no difference) 2) I built mine with whatever I had to hand. I don't believe it makes any difference for this application. 3) any size, standard current (else use a low current and much bigger CLR) 4) the maximum any cap co...

I have a Joranalogue Test 3 and an FC Power board in a standalone box. It gives me enough of a warm, fuzzy feeling that nothing will die when I transfer my build to a case.

I placed my last order on 9th May. It arrived the day before yours.

Got a few of these. PM me your email address.

Looking great!

None of your pictures from the last two posts are visible.

It's definitely a mono jack. A stereo jack would have three lugs (tip, ring, sleeve).

EATyourGUITAR wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 18, 2020 10:33 am

2SK30A can self destruct if you touch it with your hands no wrist grounding strap.

2SK30A is a JFET? There's no glass gate to punch through with a static charge. MOSFETs on the other hand...

julian wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 14, 2020 2:46 pm

Not for the purists -

What do they know?

Looks stunning.

Use whatever you have to hand.

gods-and-ghost-light wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 28, 2020 10:37 am

I assume it can't be as simple as wiring the outs to the ins of each circuit.

It's as simple as wiring the outs to the ins of each circuit.

The individual circuits don't know they're in one box or several. Indeed, the individual circuits don't know they're individual!

I've had a Zoom 9120 forever and still like it a lot.

I recently got a pair of the Sony WH-CH700N wireless headphones. I'm very pleased with them, and I wouldn't say they're bass-heavy. Worth an audition?

I used these ones from Tayda.

I've been doing it kinda by function, but I think I should rearrange everything randomly to avoid doing "the obvious thing" each time?

Similar to some others here, I'm using rattle cans from an auto shop (Halfords in the UK) - both paint and clear-coat. Use a primer first. Use two or three thin coats and allow to dry thoroughly (thick coats will *never* dry!). I allow 20-30 minutes between coats, then leave it at least 24 hours bef...

SonicVoltage wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 15, 2020 4:02 pm

But here are my 'RED' Ladik modules within the system.

Good looking setup - those Ladik modules do look classy in RED.

Cheap ceramic disc caps are allegedly best for decoupling. Anything grander is pointless (even MLCC). I'm not sure why you'd want an electrolytic for each chip? One for each power rail overall is sufficient. And on a breadboard, get the decoupling as close as you reasonably can, but don't lose sleep...

I've had the opportunity (aka necessity) to read the forum on my phone while on vacation this week. It's working seamlessly on the smaller platform too. So thanks again for your efforts, Rob.