Nice. I really like the textured finish on the Erica synths examples.

That looks quite nice Romain! Which kind of varnish did you use, and how did you apply it? Thanks

You mean a whole copper area under the entire panel, right? No, it doesn't, copper it's only where the Great Wave drawing is. Would that make the panel darker and/or more glossy? Yes! At least in the few experiments I have done. Maybe a copper fill on just the bottom layer would be enough, have not...

Super cool. Color me interested

Yes! @joeSeggiola - Looks really good. Really Impressive first try.

It does not look like you have any copper in there? (Hard to really see here though) - Hence the opaque look.

You could use LED to mask out the imperfections, like these: https://www.ebay.com/c/2037489086

I want the music I make to be well considered and sound good live. Many people will use minimal composition to achieve this, or there’s the other way which is to just slam it all through distortion, which sort of works and is it’s own thing, but I’m looking for the middle ground. There is no middle...

So much great stuff in this thread, here is my contribution:



A full hour of live techno for FLASH Recordings.

Hope you dig it!

This is my inner old grumpy man talking: If you don't know what to add, why not wait until you stumble on something you feel could add value? Buy a blank panel and save your money for something you could really use instead of just plugging a hole.

I was planning to get a Livestock Ellis to build presets in Plaits (and other oscillators like BIA and such) and switching between them with my CV sequencer. Does anyone have any experience with this modules combo? I use my FLXS-1 sequencer for this purpose, and love it for live use. I am convinced...

Electro Smith Daisy Patch comes to mind: https://www.electro-smith.com/daisy/patch https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/58d03fdc1b10e3bf442567b8/1594143286509-G1ZVW5A133GS93HKMSUB/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kMXRibDYMhUiookWqwUxEZ97gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z4YTzH...

Yes, inductors have certainly come down in price too. Do you have a formula for calculating these values? I have read through a good bit of TDK's info on the subject, very interesting reads. At this time I like the EasyEda/JLCPCB platform and they have X7R Samsung MLCC's rated at 50v. From what I c...

@Tonescape ARP used 1uF,35V Tantalum caps -originally, aluminum-glass hermetic type- for module power input resevoir-flltering. My 50SQ format is based on their circuits, and so use these caps also. With some changes and updates where warranted. Quite generally speaking, if you replace a tantalum c...

And, in case you do use MLCC's, how do you deal with high inrush current issues? A series inductor before the MLCC, suitably rated of course. These have also come down to very good prices recently and they help clean up the supply even more. But always make sure you use good quality MLCCs such as S...

May I ask you how you go about power decoupling for your own designs these days? What I do for my -currently- closed* format is different than what might be needed for something going into the wild west of Euro. Or even modern 4 and 5U. I use a Hinton style 6 bus bar distribution for the larger enc...

- MLCCs have low ESR which is good, but may also cause problems (for example if the power supply is a DC-DC converter). can you elaborate on that? Low esr means higher inrush current. Ohms law. Higher inrush current spike can confuse or exceed the ability of the DC-DC converter to compensate. Some ...

Center detent is a mistake for a module like this. You eliminte any trim ability close to zero. It will 'fall in' to the detent. If you need zero, put it at one end and use a switch to set polarity. Also a good idea, however I personally fo see the advantage in using a center detent pot, from a use...

F’in awesome

Yeah this is certainly possible! As it stands the 0 point in the middle of the knob is pretty close. If I could find a pot that would work as a drop in replacement I'd do it, but I think it'll require trimmers and stuff, and at that point I'd start to wonder how useful it really is compared to the ...

KSS wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 05, 2020 12:23 am

I like adding two pole AC/DC switches to DC mixers. Using one polefor the cap and the other to switch in a tapering resistor for the pot in AC mode.

That’s a great approach.

uniquepersonno2 wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 04, 2020 8:54 pm

IEC wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 04, 2020 5:50 pm

does it have a centre detent so you have the option to pass the CV unmolested?

Center detent isn't reliable for something precise like this

If you add a trimmer it would be.

Eurorack +Elektron Analog Rytm. Powerful combo. Would be hard to do what the Rytm can do with modules, and it would be hard to do what the modular can do with a standalone synth. :sb: My setup as well, plus some synths and lotsa outboard. I cannot imagine to replace the Rytm with Eurorack. I’ve bee...

Eurorack +Elektron Analog Rytm. Powerful combo.

Would be hard to do what the Rytm can do with modules, and it would be hard to do what the modular can do with a standalone synth.

It is a converted guitar pedal, that's why.

Mono spaces can be really great though, I often fold a reverb bus to mono. Listen to a lot of Portishead - mono all over, but sounds awesome.

Anyone ever used a flatbed scanner to scan the front panel, and then line it up in your graphics program to mach exact panel dimensions?

Seems like a useful solution, given that you have a precise enough scanner of course.

Really cool, I like this idea a lot.