FWIW I did a few builds with thermostat wire. In my opinion it's too big and not flexible enough to wire things like jacks, pots etc.

Interesting- I don't think so, but I'll check!

I posted a sample of it on IG here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFF39FOlAVS/?igshid=1tfnolmvtx3i8 It worked fine for about 2.5 min and then did this. Maybe it’s overheating? Something more digital based? A cap that’s charging up slowly and then getting angry? Next step is to take it apart and see ho...

Altitude909 wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 13, 2020 6:30 am

Sounds like digital bus noise. Does it get worse when you turn one of the pots? Has anyone actually tested the CS80 filter on the XT?

Yes it does... or when menus are changing.

Also I’m using the built in volume knob... no wires

Looks like an LCD with backlight

Ok- so I switched out to a 1amp, 12V supply and it had the same problem. I notice that once the digital sounding garbage starts (about 5-10 seconds after turning on) the sound other than the digital noise sounds like it has a LPF on it, no matter what the actual setting is. It works before the 5-10 ...

Yes - filter setting is correct .

wall wart- 9v 1amp supply.. so I don't think it's under powered?

My Shruthi XT is getting a lot of digital noise on the output. I don't think it's the display as it's very loud- much louder than the normal sound itself (which also sounds distorted). It seems to come on after 2-3 seconds of being on, and is fairly continuous ie. not affected by the envelope. Chang...

Are you selling it as a bare pcb or with some components on it already? Anything weird/rare on it?

The bom is out there for the sequencer already:

https://diystudiotoys.com/products/sq-9 ... -board-kit

I'm not a dub producer, but my personal opinion is that the further down the signal chain you are looking to "blend it back into the mix" the more work you'll have to do.

I'm interested in hearing the outcome (and the original track)!

Thanks for sharing all this great info! Surprised to see such an awesome system only a few hours from where I live

What's the purpose of this? Test the efficiency of modules to handle when garbage is sent on the power rails?

Drillionaire wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 08, 2020 3:15 am

I finally finished the last of my DIY backlog and it was a bit of a doozy.

how hard was it to calibrate?

Is the switch for octave backwards? Meaning the legend is correct, but the lowest pitch should be the switch moved to the left?

Are you sure the FH-2 is actually outputting 10v? I mean, compared to 9.5v or something less?

Got pictures of the boards? Is this the one pcb or two pcb version?

I can't speak for the hammond boxes, but with the AC423 I have to cut the top edge flanges down with an air nibbler (except for where the mounting screws go).

levelhead3 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 22, 2020 1:58 am

the rev 2.0 at least has a rather elaborate calibration process

Pretty much all analog frequency shifters are like this. You could probably fit a Jurgen Haible one behind the panel (plus a ring mod), but I bet that will be lots of not-fun.

Any update on this? Does anyone have these in the wild?

I'm not sure though if the whole module needs to be tested again for RoHS/REACH compliance as a whole unit rather, than the individual components, once it's complete, as the thread above suggests? I can't speak to RoHS, but I do deal with REACH a little in my daily work. Since you're not really mak...

If you’re ok with acrylic/plastic you can use Ponoko to get something designed to whatever color you want.

@SphericalSound- any guess on what the price will be?

mutierend wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 09, 2020 9:42 pm

I figured it out. The 272e antenna is in the breakout panel behind the 296e. The 296e was pushing up against that. I flipped it over and problem solved.

The poor 296e was just trying to phone home! And you ruined it's chances. I hope you can live with yourself