Photos?

I would triple check about that jumper too. I mean no disrespect--I have been absolutely convinced I had things set up correctly, multiple times even, only to find that when I looked at it one more time I had it backwards in some fashion.

BTW it occurs to me.... is there any chance that when you flipped the PCB over to solder your jumper, you confused A1 and B8?

For the 14 x 0.1uF caps on the analog board that are all supposed to me ceramic, I've used film Film caps won't have any impact here. That should be just fine. The problem is between your switch and the digital board anyway. I hate to say it, but I think you're going to have to pull the big switche...

So that's "switch 16" in the schematics. It connects to pin 23 of U7 on the digital board section. It's pulled up by R16, and when the switch is closed (in the DOWN position!), it's supposed to ground the connection. So the middle pin of the switch should be grounded. Verify that. If it is grounded ...

Switch B8 measures fine for continuity. Just to be 100% sure: when the switch is up, you *only* have continuity between the bottom pin and the middle, and when it's down, you *only* have continuity between the top pin and the middle ? Step B8 is always active regardless of whether or not the toggle...

Double check that your switch for B8 is actually switching correctly (power off, flip the switch to different positions, measure continuity between the pins and the center. Probably should have all the other switches in center position first). As for pot B1, I would measure what it's doing at the po...

Make sure you go through the calibration steps before you get too worried. I had oscillators that wouldn't go at all until I got the trimmers adjusted.

Oh, 250Hz minimum? Yeah that's definitely too fast. All three do the same? I'd double check the caps for value and shorts.

- Calibrating the envelope generators: The elby instructions feel convoluted to me and the 73-75 is a little vague. It helps to read up on how these work, they're kind of counter intuitive, so just having a better understanding of how it's supposed to function is a good thing. Turn the rise and fal...

any ideas where I should start looking? I did have a bit of trouble with the 10v 78L10 Can you provide more detail about the the 78L10? Did you go through the bring up procedure in detail? If so where did things start to go south? Are you using the most recent version which requires no interconnect...

No worries about module depth there! :-D

When you generate the gerbers, KiCad will clip any silk screen layers etc anyway. I have periodically had groundplane pours that exceeded the bounds of the edge cuts, never had any issues.

I suspect that depends on the guidelines from the particular fab.

yeah, I would expect edge cuts shapes to also not be plated. But I wouldn't use them for "holes" unless we're talking > 1/2"

whether holes are plated or not depends on which gerber they are in. The "npth" (not plated through) file has holes that are not going to be plated.

How many 2600's do you have, LED-man?

Next question for this build has to do with jacks The bananas appear to follow the Elby color scheme (I have 8 colors, just missing Orange, which as a special, probably doesn't apply), but I have nothing that I've been able to find that maps the Elby scheme to the specific positions on these panels....

Ah, gotcha. So each slider is a harmonic rather than a step in a waveform. Interesting, certainly.

If it's originally Buchla I'd be surprised if *someone* hasn't cloned it to 5U.

Edit: So I guess I get to be surprised. Mark's notes are the only references to it I see....

Not familar with it offhand, but if I were to guess it looks an awful lot like an Ian Fritz Double Deka, which is (or was) available in 5U.

hamildad wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 13, 2020 12:18 pm

I'll always look at euro >5U conversions and only see the waste of panel real estate and the wincy wee screens used.

I couldn't agree more

It used to be that the upload process resized photos automatically if they were in-line. I wonder if that has been lost or deliberately turned off?

What knobs did you use? Beautiful build! Thank you :) Paul uses a mini (1/2"? or maybe 5/8") version of the same style knob as the bigger MOTM modules. In one instance he shipped the knobs on the module as I bought it from him (without jacks/jack board), and in the other instance I used knobs of th...

I'd like to see some manufacturers make 5U PCBs for themselves or DIYers, rather than rely on other people to repanel a euro PCB. Significant expense for very little return. The 5U market is tiny. Synth Tech Hyperion Effects unit has me shook, but I dont think it would work with a repanelling. espe...

Fair enough. I think that had crossed my radar before and I understand that you had permission, it had slipped my mind when responding here though.

I had no intent to throw shade your way

When I was doing a run 3 years ago, he was still asking not to provide CAD files....

in line with Rob's wishes of keeping this a DIY community project - is there a cad file that i can send to a pcb printing place - that uses standard throughhole components? Rob specifically asks any of us doing layouts NOT to share the CAD files because once that is done, no matter the intent to al...

i wish they would add hexagons or even let you input a tile-able pattern. What I've done is create a bitmap the size of the panel and import it the same way I would a silkscreen layer, except I assign it to a copper layer. I haven't done it with DipTrace, but it works well in KiCad. Main downside i...