FILTER

Blacet, Metalbox, Synthasonic, PAiA and the rest.... a frac frenzy!

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jamb
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Post by jamb » Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:18 pm

using my wiard joystick going into the CV input on my korg x-911.. works as a nice filter control

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Post by dhamaryder » Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:29 pm

the Bananalogue 4075 was mentioned. I'm amazed at how such a little module can do so much. I was playing with it tonight for a long time. I think it definitely packs the most punch for the size of it of any of the filters I have.
These are other filters I have, some I built and some I got ready built(actually I guess the Wasp was the only one I got ready built):
CGS Synthacon: great and wild sounding. There is that problem with the resonance pot popping. I read the posts on here about solutions. will have to tackle that at some point because I often find myself avoiding using this filter because of that annoying
Paia 9700: surprisingly versatile. Can be wild sounding at times.
Matteson multimode: Pretty good but now that I've had it for a long time I find I'm not drawn to using it too often. Its good but maybe just a bit plain sounding.
Dual Wasp(Metalbox): I've found this to be very useful. two cv controls, one of them attenuated with a pot. distortion pot allows you to add harmonics when you need them. That's the most useful aspect of this filter for me as i use it for percussion sounds. Good resonance too.
Polymoog Resonator(Jurgen Haeble PCB): I built it as a separate box so i often forget it's there(even though I physically bolted it on to the side of the modular). I wish now that I had made it as a module. I'd probably use it more. It is very good. But there's no voltage control so you set it and leave it. I've used it for other synths that I've imported into the modular(eg. the Nord Modular, Roland XP-80 or other digital synths).
CGS Bandpass: I made two of these. There's no VC but I do use them often, particularly for drum sounds, tuning them etc. I'm able to use them to focus a particular sound the way I want it.

jamb
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Post by jamb » Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:34 am

maybe i should just start a new thread for this,... nahhh.

has anyone here converted one of the eurorack malekko boogies to frac? they do in fact run off of +/-15v and with the mattson 15-pin to 4-pin adapter, and a custom faceplace, all the ingredients are there.... i know it seems ridiculous, since these were born as fracs, but since they are so damn hard to find, it's kind of the only option these days for getting the boogie sound in a frac system these days.

kind of unfortunate to have started collecting fracs after the 1200s ceased production.... :ripbanana:

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Tubeampguy
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Post by Tubeampguy » Tue Feb 12, 2013 2:42 am

synthcube wrote:This is SO NOT READY for prime time, because we are formally launching later in December along with the new website--- but here is a (very rough) photo of the 15V format AM4023 LPF . We are doing kits, assembled modules, PCBs, individual panels & parts for 1U&2U Frac and Frac Banana, a Buchla-esque one, 1U and 2U MOTM and a 2U dotcom (with dotcom panels by re:synthesis)

The MOTM 1U is done and tested; other mockups to be tested in the next couple of weeks.

Rob Keeble retains the rights to all his Euro versions of these modules. We have licensed the full range of his circuits for 15V formats.

Next Imageafter the AM4023 is 15V versions of the AM2140 ResFilter (SSM2220 and SSM2020 based) and the AM3320 VCF (CEM3320 based)
Frac Rack LPG?

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werock
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Post by werock » Tue Feb 12, 2013 3:11 am

jamb wrote:maybe i should just start a new thread for this,... nahhh.

has anyone here converted one of the eurorack malekko boogies to frac? they do in fact run off of +/-15v and with the mattson 15-pin to 4-pin adapter, and a custom faceplace, all the ingredients are there.... i know it seems ridiculous, since these were born as fracs, but since they are so damn hard to find, it's kind of the only option these days for getting the boogie sound in a frac system these days.

kind of unfortunate to have started collecting fracs after the 1200s ceased production.... :ripbanana:
No, but it would seem like your only option. Not sure how the original panels were done (etched maybe?), but if you want the original look it could be troublesome. Personally I wouldn't bother with an adapter, I'd just solder the power cable straight to the board.

Talking about Euro conversions, I'm sure some of the earlier TipTop modules also run off 15v as well.

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e-grad
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Post by e-grad » Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:38 am

werock wrote:Not sure how the original panels were done (etched maybe?)...
My blue 1200 Wiard is engraved and filled with paint while my black ones are silk printed.

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Post by werock » Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:06 am

So maybe Grant might be able to provide the panel file for the engraved ones, if asked nicely.

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Post by jamb » Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:25 am

The trick will be getting front panel specs for the malekko and turning it into a frac faceplate. I suppose I'll just have to measure it by hand or even scan it into the computer, turn it into a fpe file and do a one-off. I dunno though, never done a custom faceplate before.

Norman_Phay

Post by Norman_Phay » Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:47 am

Here is as far as I got with an anti-osc panel. It doesn't match the knob & jack layout of either malekko module, I was going to desolder all of these items and run them off flying leads. I liked the layout style of Grant's orig 1200-series panels & wanted to replicate that. You may also notice that it says "tau phaser", that's just a placeholder, I think I have an "anti-osc" hpgl file somewhere. I haven't made my mind up wether to get a couple of these made by schaeffer or design a 300-sized dual anti module so haven't done more on this one.
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e-grad
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Post by e-grad » Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:50 am

jamb wrote:The trick will be getting front panel specs for the malekko and turning it into a frac faceplate. I suppose I'll just have to measure it by hand or even scan it into the computer, turn it into a fpe file and do a one-off. I dunno though, never done a custom faceplate before.
That's easy. You measure them, do the panel design using FPE, print your panel design, place the Malekko panel on top to make sure all holes are at their place. (Mounting holes will be defferent, of course.) If so, you can securely order the panel.

Since the clearance btn upper and lower rails is smaller in frac than in euro every euro module will fit behind a frac panel without any further modification.

The only problem would be to get files for the graphics such as the griffins or the Wiard lettering.

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Post by jamb » Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:58 am

thanks for the tips, e-grad! i'm not so concerned about the graphics, but lettering in the 1200 style black version would be nice. i know grant keeps a hold of all of his old designs and files, so i'm sure he's got it. he just clearly has better things to be doing, so whether or not he actually digs through his old files to help me out, i'll just have to ask and find out. My 1200 black noise ring is engraved and looks super nice-- the JAG and joysticks however are not, but still i'm much in favor of the black. looks better with my blacet fleet...

egrad, would you recommend cutting the holes myself to ensure the positioning is right, or should i order the panel pre-cut?

as far as the power cable goes, soldering to the board isn't a bad idea. that's how the original 1200s are.. :roll:

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e-grad
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Post by e-grad » Tue Feb 12, 2013 11:26 am

I've done all of my panels with FPE. I use black panels, have all holes cut bei Schaeffer and have the lettering engraved using no paint! I'll add some pics of my panels incl. one re-paneled A-149 1&2.

I won't mess with any metal works since I don't own the tools needed. Furthermore doing a good job on metal is not that easy IMO.

You could use the euro power connector. Just cut the jack the goes to the bus board and replace it with a Blacet style one. That's what I did on a few of my modules. It's not beautiful nor feels 'bullet proof' but works.

My black Noise Ring is engraved, too.

Image

Image

Image

jamb
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Post by jamb » Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:07 pm

nice panels!

so shaeffer is not FPE-- is that some metal shop in Berlin?

Yeah I'd really rather not mess with the metal... in the few synth projects I've done, it's the only thing I end up fucking up.

It'd be easiest for me to just have the holes cut via FPE, so if the software it comes with to design the panel is really slick, i think hand measurements on the panel will do fine...

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Post by e-grad » Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:19 pm

jamb wrote:so shaeffer is not FPE-- is that some metal shop in Berlin?
FPE is a branch by Schaeffer (Berlin) in the US. Their software is actually called FPD (front panel design) not FPE. I've mixed it up.

The software is rather self explanatory and fun to use. Let me know if you think I could be of help.

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Post by jamb » Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:24 pm

great thanks! :tu: first gotta get the malekko module...

Norman_Phay

Post by Norman_Phay » Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:45 pm

When measuring panels, remember to measure in inches not mm, I was tearing my hair out trying to get a metric measurement off my W300 panels till I remembered that Grant, as a USA person, uses imperial measurments, duh :deadbanana:

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Post by chachi » Fri Mar 08, 2019 1:38 pm

hey e-grad, you seem to be the only voice touting the final filtre and i just got one and i’m here to back you up. i was pleasantly surprised and was expecting a more dry, state variable design but it gets pretty squelchy when you dynamical vary the freq. love the bandpass out! plus the EG has a great character that is different from my maths/function type EGs. recommended!

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Post by e-grad » Sat Mar 09, 2019 5:56 am

:party:

I think this filter excels at AM modulation. Even simple patches such as VCO's output x into the signal in of the Filtre and out y of the same VCO into the Filtre's CV input are great. Or a small amount of white noise into the CV in.

I've got some great "brass sounds" by settung the Filtre on the brink of self oscilation, than feeding some complex sub audio (I'm using a Mini Wave) to its signal in.

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Post by Tubeampguy » Sun Sep 29, 2019 2:16 am

[quote="fluxmonkey"]another option to think about: i wonder if the malekko versions of the borg/boogie would work on 15v? if so, you could probably buy one new and repackage it behind an FPD frac panel, cheaper than you could pick up an original frac version on the used market/quote]

A few years ago @ NAMM, I asked Josh Holley about converting a Euro Borg to 15v+/- He explained that it could work. Knob travel would be a bit different. He pointed out that all of the Malekko/Wiard Euro designs started life as Wiard 1200 Frac modules (in smaller production numbers) and limited designs to complement Blacet systems. (RIP John Blacet) A big "Thank You" to Grant!
I never got a chance to do this modification because right after that I found a Wiard Borg in FRAC and never looked back into it.
:tu::blacet: :tu:

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