... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!smetak wrote:Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).
I remember that I was "almost certain" of the polarity, until I received a reply from them and found out I was completely amiss. So, DO NOT connect it before contacting them! Their reply is usually very prompt.
The Definitive Connecting Power Thread
Moderators: Kent, luketeaford, Joe.
- Rex Coil 7
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5U MODULAR NORMALIZING PROJECT (for your entertainment) viewtopic.php?t=78836&highlight=
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WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
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Yeah, that's the usual feeling I have when I encounter unmarked PCBs......pain in the arse!Rex Coil 7 wrote:... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!smetak wrote:Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).
I remember that I was "almost certain" of the polarity, until I received a reply from them and found out I was completely amiss. So, DO NOT connect it before contacting them! Their reply is usually very prompt.
I've emailed them about this. Hopefully I'll hear back soon.smetak wrote:Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).
Sharpie ain't a-gonna show up well on that black PCB mask. I'm busting out the red paint to mark this thing.Rex Coil 7 wrote: ... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!
- Rex Coil 7
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Silver Sharpie ....luchog wrote:I've emailed them about this. Hopefully I'll hear back soon.smetak wrote:Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).
Sharpie ain't a-gonna show up well on that black PCB mask. I'm busting out the red paint to mark this thing.Rex Coil 7 wrote: ... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!
5U MODULAR NORMALIZING PROJECT (for your entertainment) viewtopic.php?t=78836&highlight=
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
- charonme
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NO!!!, don't!cackland wrote:Does the module have diodes around the header area?
If so, there should be an indication of the polarity of those diodes. Depending on the diode, the indication varies (A line, a stroke etc) The diode with its indicator facing away from the header should be the +12v, and the the opposite for the -12V.

this depends on where the other end of the diode is going!!! Some manufacturers use a protection schottky diode that is supposed to short the power source when plugged incorrectly, these have the diode anode connected to -12v input and cathode to +12v. Others use diodes connected in the power path that would prevent current flow if the power was plugged in incorrectly, one has its cathode connected to -12v and the other has its anode connected to +12v
I'd rather check where the power decoupling polarized capacitors are connected, usually +12v -> [+]cap[-] -> gnd -> [+]cap[-] -> -12v
also if you can see some common ICs on the board like tl074 or lm13700, find which pins are supposed to be connected to +V and -V in their datasheets and check it on the board with a continuity tester
- sutekina bipu-on
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What would you guys suggest if i was to make a 12U open frame rack like this with the necessary extra rails to mount euro? I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with distributing power.
This kind of frame

Should i install a shelf in it to hold a bus board and switching psu?
uZeus is a no go because i have too much stuff to power for 1a.
This kind of frame

Should i install a shelf in it to hold a bus board and switching psu?
uZeus is a no go because i have too much stuff to power for 1a.
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- cptnal
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I briefly considered this option when I was researching a case for myself earlier this year. I decided against it mainly because I reckoned the cats would get at the power. Here's some of the discussions I had around the issues. Maybe you'll find something useful in there...sutekina bipu-on wrote:What would you guys suggest if i was to make a 12U open frame rack like this with the necessary extra rails to mount euro? I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with distributing power.
This kind of frame
Should i install a shelf in it to hold a bus board and switching psu?
uZeus is a no go because i have too much stuff to power for 1a.
http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewto ... 21078daf28
- The_hitcher
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Well, at the very least grab 'em if they are freeThe_hitcher wrote:I have a healthy stack of these DC inverter power supply looking guys at my work they're chucking. Can these be applied to powering a rack?


- The_hitcher
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Good call. Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... dition=all
Sort of but I wouldn't get the one you linked to since it only outputs one rail (you need a positive AND a negative 12v rail for eurorack along with a 0v rail.) Search someplace like Digikey or Mouser etc for DC to DC converters that will output the two voltages you need and can work with a a 48v input.The_hitcher wrote:Good call. Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... dition=all
Metasonix RKP is double the hp of the uZeus, but it has 5A available on all three rails (it also requires three power bricks, which can become unwieldy). Probably overkill if you're not using Metasonix or other power-hungry tube-based modules.sutekina bipu-on wrote:What would you guys suggest if i was to make a 12U open frame rack like this with the necessary extra rails to mount euro? I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with distributing power.
This kind of frame
Should i install a shelf in it to hold a bus board and switching psu?
uZeus is a no go because i have too much stuff to power for 1a.
- The_hitcher
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Thank you kindly! I have about 40 of them so if it's worth it for wigglers, I'd be happy to ship them out to ya'll if anyone is interested for the cost of shipping. I'd hate to see them at the scrap yard or landfill. Do you think it's worth it?JohnLRice wrote:Sort of but I wouldn't get the one you linked to since it only outputs one rail (you need a positive AND a negative 12v rail for eurorack along with a 0v rail.) Search someplace like Digikey or Mouser etc for DC to DC converters that will output the two voltages you need and can work with a a 48v input.The_hitcher wrote:Good call. Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... dition=all
For reference:The_hitcher wrote:Thank you kindly! I have about 40 of them so if it's worth it for wigglers, I'd be happy to ship them out to ya'll if anyone is interested for the cost of shipping. I'd hate to see them at the scrap yard or landfill. Do you think it's worth it?JohnLRice wrote:Sort of but I wouldn't get the one you linked to since it only outputs one rail (you need a positive AND a negative 12v rail for eurorack along with a 0v rail.) Search someplace like Digikey or Mouser etc for DC to DC converters that will output the two voltages you need and can work with a a 48v input.The_hitcher wrote:Good call. Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... dition=all
https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/ac-d ... --100f--48

That power supply has been obsoleted/discontinued, not sure why but Meanwell in particular does that quite often. I saw some one on eBay selling a used one for about $25 shipped. According to Allied Electronics the updated/replacement version, LRS-100-48, is about $20 plus shipping:
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/mean ... /70696540/
Also, converting 48v down to the two 12v rails might generate a lot of heat . . . maybe not much more then supplies designed from the ground up as eurorack supplies but I'd guess it would depend on the converter used.
It might be best to just put them on eBay, if you can sell them all over time (or are lucky enough that someone who needs a bunch of them sees it) for $10 or so plus shipping, that will be about $400 in your pocket to buy a nice eurorack supply and distribution!

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Do a Google search on uses for 48 VDC power, I did out of curiosity and it seems that popularity is increasing in a lot of fields, even LED lighting, etc. Maybe with some research you'll find a good market where the supplies could be used as-is?The_hitcher wrote:Ok, thanks for all your help. My boss won't be willing to keep them on the shelf so maybe I will do that.
Thanks again!
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Apologies if this is a strange/nonsensical question...
I recall coming across discussions online when I was first setting up the power for my rack, where people were talking about using XLR connection jacks for power on their cases. (ie. a power brick/transformer that plugs into the wall on one end, on the other end terminates in a male/female type XLR connector which would be then plugged into it's mate on the eurorack case itself.)
Is this a completely insane idea? If not are there any tutorials about such a process that anyone can direct me to?
I have a feeling this may be a situation where I may be directed to an electrical engineering course at my local college... but I seem to have managed to wire up a Doepfer A-100 DIY kit without too much issue this far! I just really want to have a jack connector of some kind because at the moment my rack is married permanently to the power brick and it makes for a bit of clutter/confusion when moving the system around.
I recall coming across discussions online when I was first setting up the power for my rack, where people were talking about using XLR connection jacks for power on their cases. (ie. a power brick/transformer that plugs into the wall on one end, on the other end terminates in a male/female type XLR connector which would be then plugged into it's mate on the eurorack case itself.)
Is this a completely insane idea? If not are there any tutorials about such a process that anyone can direct me to?
I have a feeling this may be a situation where I may be directed to an electrical engineering course at my local college... but I seem to have managed to wire up a Doepfer A-100 DIY kit without too much issue this far! I just really want to have a jack connector of some kind because at the moment my rack is married permanently to the power brick and it makes for a bit of clutter/confusion when moving the system around.
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So I finally finished hooking up my dual Studio Bus boards to my Tip Top Access Panel. Some modules seem to work fine. Got the Mimeophon in the post and set right to hooking it up. Did not power on. All I had hooked up was an optomix and a Z8000 sequencer. What gives? I know it's not a lot to go on. I hooked the mimeophon into my mantis case and it works fine.
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Eskatonic Power supply products?
Anyone familiar with this line of products?
https://eskatonicmodular.com/
Cannot find any info outside of the site and Reverb.com
https://eskatonicmodular.com/
Cannot find any info outside of the site and Reverb.com
- DJMaytag
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Re: Eskatonic Power supply products?
I have some brackets coming in the mail today. Erik seems like a pretty good guy.RLK wrote:Anyone familiar with this line of products?
https://eskatonicmodular.com/
Cannot find any info outside of the site and Reverb.com
I believe he goes by Needham Woodworks on Instagram, and he makes some pretty spectacular cases. He is most definitely an excellent woodworker.
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Re: Eskatonic Power supply products?
I appreciate the reply, BUT - I'm asking about the power supply products.DJMaytag wrote:I have some brackets coming in the mail today. Erik seems like a pretty good guy.RLK wrote:Anyone familiar with this line of products?
https://eskatonicmodular.com/
Cannot find any info outside of the site and Reverb.com
I believe he goes by Needham Woodworks on Instagram, and he makes some pretty spectacular cases. He is most definitely an excellent woodworker.