ES users have been left behind on the latest slew of small portable cases. Doesn’t make any sense to me as ES gear makes small cases like this capable of containing a very powerful small instrument. Not being able to drop my Es-3 and Es-6 in these guys makes the case look more like a novelty product than the tool it could be. I blame it on the anti-laptop sentiment within the community. Cue long rant.pablowdadon wrote:Feedback about expert sleepers on pod 40x or 48x?
Anyone ?
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propertyof wrote:Thanks John. I’m following your paths into the abyss of discontent

If someone went crazy . . . they could attach tall rubber feet to the bottom of the Pod and then cut out a section of the bottom to let a deep module pass through?!





I would look to the module manufacturer first. It is hard to find modules these days that are 50mm plus. I have two modules that cannot fit in a 4ms x pod , or a moog case either btw, and both are old modules.. an odio and a fc trans europa. The former manufacturer went out of business and the second is thankfully modernizing their lineup, hopefully they will update the trans Europa and trim down it’s depth since it is a great module. ES might think about doing the same with their deeper modulesDragonaut wrote:ES users have been left behind on the latest slew of small portable cases. Doesn’t make any sense to me as ES gear makes small cases like this capable of containing a very powerful small instrument. Not being able to drop my Es-3 and Es-6 in these guys makes the case look more like a novelty product than the tool it could be. I blame it on the anti-laptop sentiment within the community. Cue long rant.pablowdadon wrote:Feedback about expert sleepers on pod 40x or 48x?
Anyone ?
Dragonaut wrote:ES users have been left behind on the latest slew of small portable cases. Doesn’t make any sense to me as ES gear makes small cases like this capable of containing a very powerful small instrument. Not being able to drop my Es-3 and Es-6 in these guys makes the case look more like a novelty product than the tool it could be. I blame it on the anti-laptop sentiment within the community. Cue long rant.pablowdadon wrote:Feedback about expert sleepers on pod 40x or 48x?
Anyone ?
With ~2mm washers, it nicely fits 48X.


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Could anyone confirm if these 2 modules will fit in a Pod 60, depth wise that is?
Make Noise Phonogene
Befaco Kickall
Both of these modules are 30 mm deep. But I think the placement of the connector cables matters a lot.
I have had two different report regarding Phonogene. One said that Phonogene will fit in Pod 60 but another said it wont. Not sure who to trust. So I would like to be sure before buying the modules.

Make Noise Phonogene
Befaco Kickall
Both of these modules are 30 mm deep. But I think the placement of the connector cables matters a lot.
I have had two different report regarding Phonogene. One said that Phonogene will fit in Pod 60 but another said it wont. Not sure who to trust. So I would like to be sure before buying the modules.

Kickall will definitely fit in a shallow Pod; I just held up the one to the other and there's plenty of room. From what I've seen, Befaco always puts their power headers recessed so that the depth of the module is the depth of the board rather than having a header sticking out in one spot, which is great for Pods.
Can't comment on Phonogene.
In general: You do still need to be able to fit the power ribbon behind the module(s) — it can be tricky to get it tucked in even if you see how to make it fit when you're putting the last module in. And for a Pod60 you might find yourself in need of a different power cable to reach and line up right. Personally, I am glad to have ribbon cable and connectors on hand to make up long, short, or branched power cables to suit.
Can't comment on Phonogene.
In general: You do still need to be able to fit the power ribbon behind the module(s) — it can be tricky to get it tucked in even if you see how to make it fit when you're putting the last module in. And for a Pod60 you might find yourself in need of a different power cable to reach and line up right. Personally, I am glad to have ribbon cable and connectors on hand to make up long, short, or branched power cables to suit.
Personally I would wait for the new battery module from Polyend. Looks really sweet. He shows it off at the end of their Superbooth video.joeSeggiola wrote:I just got a Pod 48X, and I'd love to make it battery powered. What type of "small" battery can I use? Everyone else made it?Hovercraft wrote:Took my battery powered Pod60 out Saturday evening, and played at an art gallery opening for 2.5 hours.
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Wow, it looks like it takes input from common 5V USB battery packs for smartphone you find everywhere. It's a neat idea! I'll wait for it.Dragonaut wrote:Personally I would wait for the new battery module from Polyend. Looks really sweet. He shows it off at the end of their Superbooth video.
In the meantime I made some researching, the only viable 15V battery option seems to be external laptop chargers like this or this one. For about $100, they seems the only option which is portable enough, elegant and fully packaged, without too many moving parts and questionable recharging process.
We did a video on this already: https://youtu.be/bb7jsVkTW_Y
Krisdonia Portable Laptop Charger 92.5Wh/25000mAh (link in video)
The trick is finding a battery with a low current shutoff value, or ideally none at all. Many of these batteries will shut off if your draw dips below a relatively high value. Some are around 100mA which is not going to work for Eurorack in most cases. The one listed here is low enough to stay on even with a single Pod and it's TSA approved.
Krisdonia Portable Laptop Charger 92.5Wh/25000mAh (link in video)
The trick is finding a battery with a low current shutoff value, or ideally none at all. Many of these batteries will shut off if your draw dips below a relatively high value. Some are around 100mA which is not going to work for Eurorack in most cases. The one listed here is low enough to stay on even with a single Pod and it's TSA approved.
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Thanks, I completely missed that! I'm happy to see I was on the right track, but I would have never thought about automatic shutoff, why they have that?jeannot wrote:We did a video on this already: https://youtu.be/bb7jsVkTW_Y
These larger batteries are designed to charge high capacity devices like laptops. A computer is always going to draw a fairly high current when charging, so the shutoff is a way for the battery to stop operation once the charge is done.
I've only found one battery that had a low current shutoff that could be toggled on and off, and it didn't have the DC output jack. The jack isn't essential, but it's nice to use your existing DC cable and just plug straight from the battery to the Pod or other enclosure.
I've only found one battery that had a low current shutoff that could be toggled on and off, and it didn't have the DC output jack. The jack isn't essential, but it's nice to use your existing DC cable and just plug straight from the battery to the Pod or other enclosure.
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I am using this one:joeSeggiola wrote:I just got a Pod 48X, and I'd love to make it battery powered. What type of "small" battery can I use? Everyone else made it?Hovercraft wrote:Took my battery powered Pod60 out Saturday evening, and played at an art gallery opening for 2.5 hours.
https://sonnenrepublik.de/en/accessories/powerbank/91/power-bank-mp18
It will charge from a USB port and can power a USB light etc. in parallel to the pod.
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Last edited by pablowdadon on Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
I just had an idea so I tried a partial implementation (since I didn't have all the needed parts here.)
For people who need another 10mm depth out of their Pods and can handle some mild mechanical DIY (sawing, filing, taping, and possibly drilling aluminum) consider using Makerbeam rails and parts?
https://www.makerbeam.com/makerbeam/ The spacing works out and the screws are 3mm. It might take a little ingenuity and a lot of patience to attach the rails to the case but it might be worth it? Or at least this concept might give someone some ideas on a different way to do things.
Cut two pieces of 10mm Makerbeam so that they fit perfectly between the sides of the Pod and attach them to the Pod:

Use the special Makerbeam t-slot sliding nuts to attach the modules to the rails. The sides are left open of course like when using washers but . . .

You can tap the center holes in the rails and attach 2hp blank panels as extended sides!


For people who need another 10mm depth out of their Pods and can handle some mild mechanical DIY (sawing, filing, taping, and possibly drilling aluminum) consider using Makerbeam rails and parts?
https://www.makerbeam.com/makerbeam/ The spacing works out and the screws are 3mm. It might take a little ingenuity and a lot of patience to attach the rails to the case but it might be worth it? Or at least this concept might give someone some ideas on a different way to do things.
Cut two pieces of 10mm Makerbeam so that they fit perfectly between the sides of the Pod and attach them to the Pod:

Use the special Makerbeam t-slot sliding nuts to attach the modules to the rails. The sides are left open of course like when using washers but . . .

You can tap the center holes in the rails and attach 2hp blank panels as extended sides!


