There's nothing in the design stopping you from building it 'backwards' to get the switch direction you want. Electrons don't care which side of the board they're on. You *will* have to sort which wire goes in which hole to be sure the circuit stays the same. And you might need plastic washer spacers under the nuts. But putting the vactrols on the other side of the PCB and some other parts to match, it can be done. Side benefit is the panel will no longer read upside down. Due to the mounting screws being reversed, you'll be seeing the blank back side outermost!
@jfprimeau- Please post the schematics befaco sent you. Ben already said he was OK with them being public earlier in the thread, and both he and Befaco have not responded to multiple follow-ups.
@Wilton Yes, the ON-OFF-(ON) switches can be sticky moving from OFF to (ON). The lesser quality switches from off brands make this more likely due to both lower quality control -of the contact plate inside- to begin with, but moreso due to not having the same amount of red epoxy on the switch pins and sometimes lesser quality case material. This epoxy keeps the pins in place better during soldering, and the better case material is less affected by heat.
Using a name brand like C&K here will be a very good choice. Be sure to check *every* switch a hundred or so times before soldering. Even the better brands still sometimes have problems. FWIW, all toggle switches have a choice of three different moving part contact plates. The one of the three that is used to attain a (momentary) switch position is the one most likely to stick. The normal plate and the one used for ON-ON-ON type toggles are not as prone to this.
But all of them are affected by case or pin movement caused by soldering heat. And this is more likely with off brands for reasons shared above.
Cheap switches on a performance control is a poor choice.
Disclaimer: I don't know what switches the kits and assembled modules ship with. I do know this is *not* the place for cheap switches.