DivKid Mutes

Cwejman, Livewire, TipTop Audio, Doepfer etc... Get your euro on!

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KSS
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Re:

Post by KSS » Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:57 am

Just another rookie wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 9:19 am
On the subject of switches top or bottom.....
I like the momentary to trigger as a push with a finger, not a flick of the thumb! So left hand side is upside down, right hand side is right way up.
It’s a more natural tapping motion I guess?
There's nothing in the design stopping you from building it 'backwards' to get the switch direction you want. Electrons don't care which side of the board they're on. You *will* have to sort which wire goes in which hole to be sure the circuit stays the same. And you might need plastic washer spacers under the nuts. But putting the vactrols on the other side of the PCB and some other parts to match, it can be done. Side benefit is the panel will no longer read upside down. Due to the mounting screws being reversed, you'll be seeing the blank back side outermost!
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@jfprimeau- Please post the schematics befaco sent you. Ben already said he was OK with them being public earlier in the thread, and both he and Befaco have not responded to multiple follow-ups.
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@Wilton Yes, the ON-OFF-(ON) switches can be sticky moving from OFF to (ON). The lesser quality switches from off brands make this more likely due to both lower quality control -of the contact plate inside- to begin with, but moreso due to not having the same amount of red epoxy on the switch pins and sometimes lesser quality case material. This epoxy keeps the pins in place better during soldering, and the better case material is less affected by heat.

Using a name brand like C&K here will be a very good choice. Be sure to check *every* switch a hundred or so times before soldering. Even the better brands still sometimes have problems. FWIW, all toggle switches have a choice of three different moving part contact plates. The one of the three that is used to attain a (momentary) switch position is the one most likely to stick. The normal plate and the one used for ON-ON-ON type toggles are not as prone to this.

But all of them are affected by case or pin movement caused by soldering heat. And this is more likely with off brands for reasons shared above.

Cheap switches on a performance control is a poor choice.

Disclaimer: I don't know what switches the kits and assembled modules ship with. I do know this is *not* the place for cheap switches.

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pieter
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Re: DivKid Mutes

Post by pieter » Tue Jun 30, 2020 4:46 am

megarat wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 3:00 pm
soon_come wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 2:30 pm
Thanks for the quick confirmation. I know of plenty of passive circuits which utilize vactrols, so I don't think that's a hard reason, but it's good to know this absolutely requires power.
Interesting. Vactrols use light, which require power, so I'm curious about how a passive circuit with vactrols would work. I wonder if they get their necessary power from the voltage in the input signal.
The voltage that you send into the passive module via a patch cable can supply the power to the LED in the vactrol. If you set up a potential difference across the LED it will light up. If the resistor part of the vactrol is also part of a passive circuit then no external power is required for the module.

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soon_come
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Re: DivKid Mutes

Post by soon_come » Tue Jun 30, 2020 7:40 am

Thanks for confirming, I appreciate that!
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megarat
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Re: DivKid Mutes

Post by megarat » Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:05 am

pieter wrote:
Tue Jun 30, 2020 4:46 am
The voltage that you send into the passive module via a patch cable can supply the power to the LED in the vactrol. If you set up a potential difference across the LED it will light up. If the resistor part of the vactrol is also part of a passive circuit then no external power is required for the module.
Thanks for the information, it’s much appreciated.

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