grizzleb wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 15, 2020 11:15 am
How doable would some of these mods be to someone who has no DIY experience? Been thinking about trying to put together a boog model 15 but would want to make these improvements!
I spent five years at a tech in my teens-early 20's. That's when I remember the heat-tube trick from. You pick it up very quickly - especially if your own gear you're working on - and most of it never changes. It's like riding a bike.
What you do need are good tools. The de-soldering/soldering iron setup is important to achieving a workable product. I did 10 pots in 40 minutes, and they were giving my trouble today with the ground plane. But once I tune up the temps, they'll fly off - they better fly off if I think I'm going to do three 960's!
Out of all the pots I replaced 40-50? I lost two pads, and that was in the first 3 modules.
If you're patient I wold wait until I'm at least at the end of what I would consider minimal changes to effects large gains. Today, it's the first three modules I attempted 911, 911A, 961. For my 'sound' only the 911 is absolutely essential to modify, and 80% of those purposes may be met by simply reducing the capacitance by 1/2 to 1/3, depending on tolerances, and number of 911's I had. At a minimum I would to do fast 911, and leave the rest stock. And that only required two easy electrolytic cap swaps.
The issue is two fold:
1) first and most important, the 'glue' that holds percussive sounds together is the first 20ms of the Amplitude envelope and a Filter envelope. This range is essentially missing from the stock module. You get a nice 800us attack, then a 11 ms gap of random values, then a 10ms range of hard to hit numbers, then it gets better. A cap change will shift that operable range above 20ms down to the 2ms range, and Bob's your uncle (to 800us goes down too, but I didn't do a cap change only to see what the stock pot presents for resistance).
2) conversely, changing the pot which improves many aspects of dialing in values, only marginally improves the end of track behavior and very low resistance values at the start of the element. There is still a smaller first gap of unattainable numbers after an initial 800us 'dead short', but it starts to behave around 11ms instead.
I think you can do either, or both and get a distinct improvement - for sounds I especially like.
N.B. Crisp snarky attacks have always been a synths achilles heel. And many products succeeded In the face of poor attack. So, YMMV, and you may not even care as long time performance is acceptable. It's all where your head is at. These are only improvements wrt to certain criteria, I am not saying "this stuff's junk without it", on the contrary "it's a kick-ass stating point!". And really is there anyone can truly ask more of from an instrument? Something to lead us on!
Personally, I'm cramming as much stuff as I can into these - just as I would do with the OG Moog modules if had them
. The bonus with this kits is that it's so simple to use and modify, I can't NOT do it :-) and this is just a side project. Lol!