DIY Modular Synth Power Supply (sorta)

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Nantonos
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Post by Nantonos » Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:53 am

The thing that makes a fuse blow is current, not voltage. The fuse filament heats up and breaks the connection. So the critical parameter on the fuse is
a) how many amps or milliamps it is rated at
b) whether it is fast blow or slow blow

Provided the voltage rating is the same as, or greater than, what you are running it at you will be fine. So a 250V fuse is fine on 120V, provided the current rating and blow speed match what is required.
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I am afraid a firmware change will not be able to turn a rather expensive 16-bit DAC into a 16-bit ADC, and flip all those op-amps :)

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Post by BBlack » Tue Oct 29, 2013 11:45 am

Nantonos wrote:The thing that makes a fuse blow is current, not voltage. The fuse filament heats up and breaks the connection. So the critical parameter on the fuse is
a) how many amps or milliamps it is rated at
b) whether it is fast blow or slow blow

Provided the voltage rating is the same as, or greater than, what you are running it at you will be fine. So a 250V fuse is fine on 120V, provided the current rating and blow speed match what is required.
Makes perfect sense, thanks VERY much!

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alesauskas
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Post by alesauskas » Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:38 pm

I just wired up a 5A supply for my Frac Rack, this thread made it easy, really nice to have all the info in one place, thanks Muff Wiggler! And it was cheaper for those 5A in the end that it was for one of the 1/2A supplies I was using! I'm going full DIY from here on out :yay:

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money bags
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Post by money bags » Fri Mar 07, 2014 1:07 am

I have a question... I have the Condor 12v at 1.7 a PSU. im looking for a inlet here at digi key, i want one with the fuse older and a switch. does the voltage rating matter if I'm running it at 125v here in the states? any recommendations on what one at this link would be most ideal?

also if anyone knows the code at digikey for the heavy wire and connectors needed that would help a bunch.


http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... AC%20Inlet

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ndkent
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Post by ndkent » Fri Mar 07, 2014 8:05 pm

money bags wrote:I have a question... I have the Condor 12v at 1.7 a PSU. im looking for a inlet here at digi key, i want one with the fuse older and a switch. does the voltage rating matter if I'm running it at 125v here in the states? any recommendations on what one at this link would be most ideal?

also if anyone knows the code at digikey for the heavy wire and connectors needed that would help a bunch.


http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... AC%20Inlet
Not an expert but can probably help. U.S. voltage should be 110 to 120v. You want anything higher and never lower and most stuff sold will be rated 250 or something which is fine. I'd just not check that box in the interface and check whichever other ones are returning too many results until you get a managable number of results and then check the voltage of course before you buy something.

Not the wire expert but charts say a gauge 16 or less. It should have some sort of rating when you look at the listing. You obviously want higher in terms of volts and amps for what you need

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money bags
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Post by money bags » Sat Mar 08, 2014 1:45 am

ndkent wrote:
money bags wrote:I have a question... I have the Condor 12v at 1.7 a PSU. im looking for a inlet here at digi key, i want one with the fuse older and a switch. does the voltage rating matter if I'm running it at 125v here in the states? any recommendations on what one at this link would be most ideal?

also if anyone knows the code at digikey for the heavy wire and connectors needed that would help a bunch.


http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... AC%20Inlet
Not an expert but can probably help. U.S. voltage should be 110 to 120v. You want anything higher and never lower and most stuff sold will be rated 250 or something which is fine. I'd just not check that box in the interface and check whichever other ones are returning too many results until you get a managable number of results and then check the voltage of course before you buy something.

Not the wire expert but charts say a gauge 16 or less. It should have some sort of rating when you look at the listing. You obviously want higher in terms of volts and amps for what you need
Thank you I was thinking that the 250v would be fine but had to double check

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money bags
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Post by money bags » Sat Mar 08, 2014 2:34 am

once i apply the filter for at 250v with fuse it throws me straight to this one. not a list. it looks like it would do the trick.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... ageSize=25

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LektroiD
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Post by LektroiD » Fri Jul 25, 2014 8:27 am

fonik wrote:for +/-15 VDC, jumpers JW1 and JW2 must be removed on curcuit board
for +/-12 VDC, jumpers JW1 and JW2 shipped installed, unless noted.

they are called JW1 & JW2 on my HAA15 at least...
Any idea where the power select is on the HCC15? I cannot locate said jumpers.

Also I noticed the PSU in the opening post is a HCC15-3-A+G, mine is a HCC15-3-A+ (Without the 'G'), what's the difference?
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daverj
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Post by daverj » Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:31 pm

I can see jumper W1 in your photo, slightly right of center horizontally and about the center vertically. Near R80 and Q20.

What output voltage are you wanting? If +/-12v it is probably already set for that. After wiring the AC power, before connecting the outputs, turn it on and measure the voltages.

The "G" at the end means RoHS compliant.

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Post by donaldharper » Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:13 am

Hi,

Wondering if anybody could help me with correctly wiring a Power One HAA15-0.8-A which I've recently bought to a fused IEC plug?

The unit is set up to output +/-15v and I'm UK based so the input will be 230V.

I've been reading the datasheet here, and it says to wire connections 1 & 4.

First question (very important), which of the two connections should go to live, and which to neutral? The datasheet is very vague about this.

Second question, how would you configure the ground? The datasheet seems to suggest that the IEC ground should be attached to the Power One chassis. Is this correct?

Any help here will be greatly appreciated, I'm approaching this with great caution and not planning to plug anything in whatsoever until I'm 100% sure.

Thanks!

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daverj
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Post by daverj » Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:00 pm

For 230v you would place a jumper between pins 2 and 3 on the transformer and send the mains into pins 1 and 4. It doesn't matter which is hot and which is neutral. The earth should go to the chassis of the power supply and to the chassis of your case, if it is metal. It should also be connected to the ground (0 volt, COM) output of the power supply.

Then the COM pin and the +S and -S on either side of it should be connected together and go to the ground of your power distribution board. The +Out pin and the +S next to it are connected together and go to the +15 of your power distribution board. And the -Out pin and the -S next to it are connected together and sent to the -15 of your power distribution board.

If the distribution board is more than a couple of inches away from the power supply, it is better to connect the various +S and -S pins with their own separate wires and connect them to the power pins at the distribution board rather than at the power supply. That allows the power supply to provide cleaner power at the distribution board.

donaldharper
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Post by donaldharper » Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:59 pm

Hi Dave,

Thank you for that, that's really helpful. Looking forward to getting this all up and running!

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agitprop
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Post by agitprop » Fri Sep 26, 2014 5:14 pm

My friend is a carpenter and is building me a 15U 150hp Eurorack case, similar to what Goike builds. I am exploring doing linear power-supply for the case, with 4ms passive boards. I have a lot of DIY small-voltage experience, but no household voltage experience, so this is a scary new world for me.

Could someone recommend power-supplies capable of pushing this much hp? I am not so much price-sensitive, as I am feature-sensitive. I would like to have 12v and 5v capability, and I am guessing I need about 5 amps of total juice, but maybe that is wrong.

Thanks so much for considering!

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kssm
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Post by kssm » Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:47 pm

^ http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Hengfu-Swit ... 6006%20PS/
5A, switching power supply

why are you specifically looking for a linear supply?
I use these in 3.5A or most recently 8.5A, for 9U or 12U cases.
Two of these bricks will give you +/-12V and you've got your +5V already from the regulators on the 4ms distro boards.

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fracinfrucer
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Post by fracinfrucer » Sat Sep 27, 2014 3:17 pm

Do you all use aluminum cases for these (like a Blacet supply) or do you just hide them away inside the case and "be careful?" :hihi: I thought it would be safer to use an aluminum enclosure, but I'm having trouble finding an affordable one.

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agitprop
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Post by agitprop » Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:40 pm

Great question! Figured I would go linear, for both total price savings and to avoid 3 Cincon bricks.
kssm wrote:^ http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Hengfu-Swit ... 6006%20PS/
5A, switching power supply

why are you specifically looking for a linear supply?
I use these in 3.5A or most recently 8.5A, for 9U or 12U cases.
Two of these bricks will give you +/-12V and you've got your +5V already from the regulators on the 4ms distro boards.

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Post by Waves » Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:31 pm

[First Post]

I am DIY-ing a power supply of my own and was wondering if anyone can help me out figuring out the +5v DC output. My power supply is a Power One hcbb-75w-a. I am setting it up for a 9U Eurorack case.

It has a board for +/- 12V and one for +/- 5V, however, there is only a ground for the 12V side. I am only reading +5V between the +Out and -S terminals and -5V between the -Out and +S terminals on the +/- 5V Board. How would I go about completing a +5V circuit for my bus boards? Does the 12V board COM become the 5V COM? Or Can I simply link the 5V board's -S terminal to the 12V board's COM to create a ground between the two boards?

The 4 leads on the bus boards are for +12V, Ground, -12V, and +5V.

Also, are the sensing terminals necessary? And is 1.7A enough for 9U x 84hp? I might be cutting it close.

Don't mind the wiring in the photos, that is how I got it.
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daverj
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Post by daverj » Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:18 pm

Image

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livefreela
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Post by livefreela » Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:29 pm

im curious about those sensing terminals too - i have a power one in one of my cases with nothing hooked up to em. seems to be working fine, are they not required, or am i just lucky thus far and should be fixing asap?

Waves
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Post by Waves » Sat Nov 01, 2014 4:07 pm

Thanks Daverj, I ended up figuring it out on my own. Wasn't reading 5V with the -Out as ground because the terminal was coated in resin.

I ended up not using the sensing terminals, although it looks easy to add them by just jumpering them in the power supply.

Ended up building a case for the supply so I could use it externally. (too big for my euro case)
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adnauseam
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Thanks

Post by adnauseam » Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:47 pm

Thanks to the advice and instructions in this thread I have successfully wired my first modular psu!

This is the happiest day of my year!

Thanks and remember to ground your psu chassis and bus boards.

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fracinfrucer
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Post by fracinfrucer » Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:28 am

Seeing 16 pages of this thread still in tact makes me very happy! :party:

paults
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Post by paults » Sat Jan 17, 2015 11:30 am

1992 built with a 1989 LM723....nope!

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Joe.
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Post by Joe. » Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:45 am

Forgot to post in here 8_)

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megaohm
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Post by megaohm » Sat Apr 04, 2015 3:47 pm

LoFi Junglist wrote:Forgot to post in here 8_)

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I love that case!
Was this a find or can it be bought somewhere specific?
www.MegaOhmAudio.com

Will work for pistachios

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