Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

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batchas
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Post by batchas » Wed May 09, 2018 7:55 am

Baddcr wrote:confirmation from someone like yourself who has already done it would be very good.
I see errors. So I'll give you the details very soon.

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batchas
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Post by batchas » Wed May 09, 2018 8:52 am

Baddcr wrote:Attempting to build one of these in Frac format, I tend to prefer visual instructions rather than text, so I worked out what I think the clues mean and made these photos, would someone be so kind as to confirm I have the wiring correct
What I see on the picture you posted is that these should be wired like this.
Image


Now about the switch if someone reads this:
It is needed for TRIG IN cause by replacing the 3.5mm plug with a banana we loose the normalization where output voltage will only change if a trigger is received.
As I don't have any magnifying glass anymore and totally blind to see anything behind my Penrose panel to help Baddcr and tell him how I did (here a good ex. which shows I should have noticed how I did on paper when I did it), I can't help him nor confirm the wiring he shows in his post is correct. Bummer.
I don't have the 3.5mm plugs neither which came with the kit, which would allow without magnifying glass to check which pins are used for normalization with my DVM.


@Baddcr: if nobody could help in a week or so, ask me again and I will take my module appart to see how I wired mine exactly.
Last edited by batchas on Fri May 11, 2018 12:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

guestt

Post by guestt » Wed May 09, 2018 9:23 am

Oh thank you!!!

I reviewed what I did and I actually got the assessment right, but drew it wrong on the photo :doh:

Hehe, so funny as I spent ages checking and double checking that I understood the pinout on the sockets and their relationship to the pcb!

Anyway, definitely okay for the socket wiring, just the switch. I can't do it at the moment, but when I get chance I will write out my reasoning, and with a bit of lucky shouldn't have to take your module apart.

Thank you once again, I really appreciate your time and effort :tu:

guestt

Post by guestt » Fri May 11, 2018 10:19 am

So, here's my rationale for the switch wiring, BugBrand posted this:
BugBrand wrote:If I remember right - trig in goes direct in to the tip connection, but there is normalisation for the ring connector - when a mono plug is inserted, it connects to ground. I think I mentioned that in my banana bits a while back, no?

So - to clarify (just got your PM!) - tip goes to pin3 of J4, then you have a switch going from pin2 (ring) to pin5 (gnd)
The sockets that come with the kit have this pinout:

Image

So my photo should be right:

Image

pin2 could go to either end of the switch, depending on which way you wanted to flip the switch for normalisation. Perhaps to the right would be better thinking about it.

Cheers :)

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batchas
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Post by batchas » Fri May 11, 2018 1:11 pm

I confirm :tu:
Like Tom said.

Flu + time at home => I checked mine.
Image

guestt

Post by guestt » Sat May 12, 2018 8:20 am

Oh wow - this is great - I like that this process is being documented so clearly!

Thank you very much indeed :D

:tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:

guestt

Post by guestt » Fri May 18, 2018 10:52 am

Just finished this off, I can confirm that the voltage regulators are not needed, it works fine from 15V.

I didn't modify the PCB at all, I raised the buttons up from the PCB using the little pin holders from IC sockets that I broke up. This means the buttons are much higher out of the face panel and there's just enough room for the banana jacks and the wiring. It's really neat.

I used component legs to connect the banana sockets to the pcb - this means I could easily 'wire it up' by pushing the legs through the rather thin holes.

I used wire to connect the switch, made them slightly longer than needed so I could solder then assemble - made the process much easier!

The IC sockets for the upside down TL072 and the right way up MCP602 were a mistake and I had to desolder them so there was room. Next time I would mount both the TL072 and the MCP602 upside down and use sockets in both places - that's the only thing i am not 100% happy about with this build. The rest is good!

Hope this helps someone else making this conversion :)

Thank you to everyone who has helped - I really appreciate your input.

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99k resistors instead of 100k

Post by gbel » Sat May 26, 2018 5:38 pm

Hello,

I just started building the kit and while looking for the 100k resistors found out they were swapped to 99k's I know that in theory they are compatible `1%` band.

Is this a design change? If I have 100k's should I use them?

Please let me know.

Cheers!

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Post by HorseyWindpump » Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:02 am

Just finished building mine, everything seems to work as it should after calibrating and updating to most recent firmware.

Except ... the green LEDs in the buttons seem very dim. Is this just me? I can hardly see whether they'e lit up or not during the daytime. Red seems a lot brighter.

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Post by funkytransport » Fri Oct 26, 2018 5:28 am

lisa wrote:Are there any Penrose user who hasn't experienced any issues? Who just built it and uses it with great success and happiness? :party:
Hey Lisa, I have built two and both work fine. (PCB, Panel and Chip from Thonk but sourced the other parts myself)

Cheers

Iain]

]

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Post by funkytransport » Fri Oct 26, 2018 5:31 am

[quote="amir"]Those that haven't had problems, can you list where you purchased yours and when? What firmware you are on (if you know) or if you've updated the firmware.

Hey Amir.

I got my PCB, Panel and chip from Thonk, sourced the rest of the stuff myself. havnt flashed the ROM and it works fine from factory..

Iain

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Post by gbraakman » Wed Nov 07, 2018 6:12 am

bensaddiction wrote:This looks fantastic,

I'm just curious to hear peoples opinions on how easy it has been to calibrate?
Still, haven't succeeded in calibrating mine. If i understand correctly the red led indicates what the current incoming pitch is. the red led on mine is always in the same position whatever pitch/voltage i feed it. This makes calibration impossible.(?)

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Post by batchas » Wed Nov 07, 2018 7:28 am

gbraakman wrote:the red led on mine is always in the same position whatever pitch/voltage i feed it
Is it so as well when you have a few notes selected (green)?
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Post by pescatore » Fri Feb 15, 2019 11:07 am

Finished building a Penrose last night and it seems to work great with one exception. The gate output always reads about 2.3V, even with nothing else patched. It then only gives a slightly higher pulse on note changes (haven't yet been able to measure the pulse voltage). Has anyone else seen this? I've gone over the boards carefully and don't see anything obviously wrong, joints look good, etc. Any ideas on where I might investigate? Thanks for any suggestions.

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Post by BugBrand » Fri Feb 15, 2019 2:55 pm

The circuitry is minimal - if you look at page 2 of the schematic you see that the gate signal passes through U3B (2nd half of IC 3). R2/R9 form a bias of 2.5V, then the rest is a unity gain inverter (using 10k resistors) - comes out to pin3 of the inter-board-header then straight out to LED and gate output --- ie. check around U3B! The resistors are 1k/10k/100k so check you haven't got any values muddled up.

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Post by pescatore » Tue Feb 19, 2019 9:06 pm

Thanks for the tips, I'll double check those resistor values.

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Post by sd_falter » Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:17 pm

What is the actual octave range of these modules? Can't seem to find a solid answer here.

From the manual you'd assume 10 octaves. (0-10v)

I built one recently and it seems to just crap out at the 6th octave and above

My test method:
Maths Output 2 to Penrose IN
OUT from Penrose to V/OCT on Plaits
Penrose only has the top button active
Slowly turn Maths 2 knob clockwise
Count the octave intervals monitored from Plaits.

First 5 octaves track pretty accurately, Octave 6 seems kinda flat and then any increases from that point the Penrose just seems to output a constant voltage.

I've noticed a few people in this thread mention they only seem to get about 5 octaves or so out of this module but never really seen confirmation if its an issue with their individual builds or this is expected behaviour..

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Post by BugBrand » Thu Mar 14, 2019 4:17 am

Yes 0 to +10V.
I've been using the 12bit version of the DAC though haven't done deep comparison & can't remember offhand the part number!

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Post by jdaddyaz » Wed Jul 17, 2019 3:39 am

Just finished building this one. Plugged it in and only the bottom button lights up which rapidly blinks red. Checked all my solder points, and the orientation of the components is all good. Can't install firmware because of this, and obviously calibrate. Any ideas what's happening?
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Re: Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

Post by pjbulls » Fri Apr 10, 2020 2:56 pm

Question: do you need to do anything, such as setting special fuses, for running the ATMega at 20 MHz? I've flashed plenty of them at 8 and 16 MHz, but this is the first one I've seen running at that speed.

People were talking about the fuses in README.txt of the bootloader folder on Github. That file suggests 0xE2 for the low fuse, which is CKSEL 0010 or the internal (~8 MHz) oscillator. Surely that can't be right? My google-fu and the datasheet seem to turn up either 0110 (full swing) or 1110 (low power) as a recommendation for running a >16 MHz external crystal, but I was wondering if anyone here has any advice?

E: to add to the confusion, the bin/flashAvr.sh script in the Github repo seems to use 0xFF, which is external clock?!

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Re: Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

Post by BartBral » Sun May 10, 2020 3:13 pm

Today I had the opportunity to take the whole thing apart...

I build it couple of months ago... Calibrated it and all was well... Then all of a sudden: NOTHING! Except for the gate/trigger LED lighting very very dim.

Then I read the manual, the build guide and 19 pages of other problems here... It seemed to strange that it could not be the Firmware...
... I falsely thought. :bang:

So after measuring everything, reflowing all I could reach and swearing out loud... ...I thought let's just try if I can put it in firmware upgrade mode... And YES!
Then I tried playing the firmware.wav but no luck... Other player and louder!... no luck... blablabla and no luck... thru a mixer blablabla, no luck... Took it apart again and checked blablabla... nope.

...Looked at the schemetics a bit more... :doh: Long story/rant "short":
USE A STEREO CABLE INTO THE TRIGGER INPUT OF THE PENFOLD!!!
AND DO AMP THE SIGNAL! USING A STEREO DEVICE... When updating firmware.

:bang:

BUT WHY WAS MY FIRMWARE SUDDENLY CORRUPTED, in the first place??!! :hmm:


:party: But it is solved now...

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Re: Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

Post by ESSY » Wed May 13, 2020 6:41 am

ahh... the frustration is real. I feel your pain!

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Re: Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

Post by BartBral » Wed May 13, 2020 1:25 pm

ESSY wrote:
Wed May 13, 2020 6:41 am
ahh... the frustration is real. I feel your pain!
:hihi:

Well, sorry... it was a bit of a first world problem I had there...
I am aware that there are people in the world with actual real serious problems...

...they can't get their hair cut or get their nails done...

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Re: Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

Post by Haralds:Werk » Thu May 14, 2020 4:26 am

pjbulls wrote:
Fri Apr 10, 2020 2:56 pm
Question: do you need to do anything, such as setting special fuses, for running the ATMega at 20 MHz? I've flashed plenty of them at 8 and 16 MHz, but this is the first one I've seen running at that speed.

People were talking about the fuses in README.txt of the bootloader folder on Github. That file suggests 0xE2 for the low fuse, which is CKSEL 0010 or the internal (~8 MHz) oscillator. Surely that can't be right? My google-fu and the datasheet seem to turn up either 0110 (full swing) or 1110 (low power) as a recommendation for running a >16 MHz external crystal, but I was wondering if anyone here has any advice?

E: to add to the confusion, the bin/flashAvr.sh script in the Github repo seems to use 0xFF, which is external clock?!
* Fuse settings for external quarz (20MHz):
* avrdude -p m328p -c avrisp2 -U lfuse:w:0xe7:m
* avrdude -p m328p -c avrisp2 -U hfuse:w:0xd9:m

Should be the same for the 168
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Re: Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit

Post by uniquepersonno2 » Wed May 20, 2020 8:41 pm

Is this available in the US anywhere? Having trouble finding on...

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