DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

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adam
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by adam » Wed May 13, 2020 6:47 pm

fair enough...

Bretd
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by Bretd » Wed May 13, 2020 10:17 pm

Will an ST-LinkV2 and the Olimex JTAG-20-10 converter suffice for programming for most of these builds?

bawbag
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by bawbag » Thu May 14, 2020 12:53 am

Bretd wrote:
Wed May 13, 2020 10:17 pm
Will an ST-LinkV2 and the Olimex JTAG-20-10 converter suffice for programming for most of these builds?
Yes. The ST-Link won't work on any of the ATMega designs, but will work for the STM32 designs with JTAG headers. The later STM32 designs require you to use the ST-Link in a slightly different manner, but it still works.

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Spastic_Colon
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by Spastic_Colon » Sat May 16, 2020 8:44 pm

My first successful MI build of any description. Relatively straight forward and worked first time after flashing. I’ve got an Elements and uBraids II line’s up next. :cloud:
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ashley27
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by ashley27 » Fri May 22, 2020 1:43 pm

Can anybody put me in the right direction for an encoder for a DIY Yarns module I’m building. I’ve never needed an encoder before, finding it a little confusing! Somebody mentioned this earlier in the thread, it’s 24 dent.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ ... -4220F-S24

eljay
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by eljay » Fri May 22, 2020 4:16 pm

That encoder works fine, it does require careful mounting to the front panel and soldering to the PCB because the Bush length (the threaded part of the shaft that you fix the front panel nut to) isn't quite long enough. The PCB just required a little squeeze toward the front panel to get enough thread through to get the front panel nut on it. You also need to make a tiny change to the encoder code module to reverse the encoder direction. The module functions correctly if you don't but the encoder rotation works back to front. In this application the encoder is just a knob you rotate to scroll through a series of values. Solder the encoder on after you have fitted the pots, sockets and LED display and attached the front panel, that should allow you to get a couple of turns of the front panel nut on the Bush and only squeeze the PCB enough to be able to solder the legs securely. This encoder has a push to select (click function), if you don't secure the encoder with a nut to the front panel the PCB will flex a little each time you press the encoder knob, eventually this could lead to stress fractures in the PCB.

ashley27
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by ashley27 » Sat May 23, 2020 1:13 am

Ok great thank you, so it SHOULD be 24 turn not 12?

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Altitude909
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by Altitude909 » Sat May 23, 2020 7:26 am

^

Do this instead, find an extra M7 nut, thread it almost to the bottom of the encoder (assuming you have a 25mm long one). This will be the last step in the build so make sure everything else is done, place the encoder (dont solder) and install the panel and tighten the socket nuts. install the other nut on the encoder thread and tighten it down, you can adjust how much it lifts off the board with the nut underneath. It doesnt really matter, the two nuts will keep the part in place, flip it around and solder down the encoder. There should be enough leads sticking out to do so

Forcing the panel down to get the nut on is a bad idea in so many ways, yarns doesnt have any support on the top so you will flex the panel and the pcb and keep them under tension while youre plugging stuff in and out. Not good. With the two nuts the encoder is mechanically held to the panel, not the pcb

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