CS-80 filter v2.3 for Euro & 5U

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williamcarthief
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Post by williamcarthief » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:31 pm

oldcrow wrote:This looks correct to me! Make sure you use jumper blocks to close A to C and B to D on JP33. --Crow
Aaannnd this was the problem! I hadn't yet installed these. Installed now and working great!

I could still use clarification as to what exactly is going on with the hplp - split switch. I'm kind of thinking it's kind of a rather significant feature. But I'm a bit dim. Help me out.

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oldcrow
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Post by oldcrow » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:31 pm

You need to install jumpers (I use resistor clippings) on JP33 from A to C and B to D. Right now it looks like you do not have anything jumpered, so SVF2 isn't getting any signal.

Split mode means IN1 and IN2 go to SVF1 and IN3 goes to SVF2. Note there aren't separate CVs for this; it is meant to allow a GX1-style second waveshape to be processed under the same filter tracking.

HPLP mode is all inputs go through SVF1 then SVF2 like my stock 480 filters of yore. :guinness:

Hope this helps! --Crow
/**/
williamcarthief wrote:Finally got it all assembled. The silver panel is beautiful. The vca seems to be working fine. SVF1 appears to be functioning well also, and sounding great. However SVF2 is extremely quiet. Unusable quiet. Well I think it's SVF2. HP2, BP2, and LP2 are all very, very quiet, no matter how I configure inputs and mode switch and SVF2 knobs.

First off, any ideas on where I should start trying to figure out what's wrong with the quiet outputs from HP2, BP2, and LP2?

Secondly, I could use help understanding what's supposed to be going on with HPLP and Split mode switch, and with the IN3(SPLIT) to SVF2.
Last edited by oldcrow on Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by oldcrow » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:32 pm

Note sure how to delete this redundant post. Edit/delete shows no delete option. :deadbanana:
Last edited by oldcrow on Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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williamcarthief
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Post by williamcarthief » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:34 pm

Thanks, oldcrow. We must have been posting at the same time. I installed the jumpers and it's working great. Super stoked!

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Post by oldcrow » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:41 pm

Good show. :sb: :sb:
williamcarthief wrote:Thanks, oldcrow. We must have been posting at the same time. I installed the jumpers and it's working great. Super stoked!

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Sun Dec 11, 2016 3:43 pm

Success! Filter sounds great!!! Love sweeping the frequency spectrum with just about anything with this.

Did have a couple of notes/questions about functionality:

1. Resonance still seems somewhat wet despite being in fully CCW position.

2. Filter doesn't seem fully closed in fully CCW position in LP mode.

Could be something with my build or it could just the nature of the beast - any insight on this or a way to squeeze a bit more range regarding Hz and Q?

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Mon Dec 19, 2016 6:15 pm

Bumping this to see if anyone has any insight.

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williamcarthief
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Post by williamcarthief » Mon Dec 19, 2016 7:09 pm

Mine doesn't seem to fully close either. I don't think I have the resonance issue however.

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Tue Dec 20, 2016 1:43 am

Also noticing that fm is still pretty active when turned down all the way.

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Post by GryphonP3 » Tue Dec 20, 2016 2:59 am

muffdiver wrote:Also noticing that fm is still pretty active when turned down all the way.
I definitely dont have that problem. The filter may be a tiny bit resonant when it is turned down but I think thats open to interpretation and just the nature of the sound. Definitely not a squelch you cant get rid of or anything like that. I would double check components against the appropriate areas in the schematic.
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oldcrow
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Post by oldcrow » Tue Dec 20, 2016 4:56 pm

Hey folks, the usual Christmas insanity here at atelier Crow. I will have a look at the issue, but offhand it sounds like a resistor value is off somewhere. I need to build another filter as I have none here at the moment. --Crow

/**/

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Wed Dec 21, 2016 2:12 am

Did a spot check on the resistors and found a 33k that was an incorrect value. Swapped it out and like magic the filter Hz closes completely and Q also is totally fixed now.

The issue with FM was 100% wetware. I had it fully CCW, but neglected to see that it's bipolar :doh:

Thanks Scott!

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williamcarthief
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Post by williamcarthief » Mon Dec 26, 2016 1:26 pm

Did a spot check on the resistors and found a 33k that was an incorrect value. Swapped it out and like magic the filter Hz closes completely and Q also is totally fixed now.
Muffdiver, as mine isn't closing all the way and the more I listen the more I think the Q might be a bit off on mine as well, I'm wondering if I've done the same thing. Do you remember the details of your fix? Where on the board was it and was it supposed to be a 33k or was it a 33k resistor in a spot where there was supposed to be a different value?

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Tue Dec 27, 2016 7:06 pm

It was the one in between the 2 coolaudio v2146's.

If you look at the pic above you'll see it. There are a lot of 33k in that signal path, so I imagine it's worth going over them all like I did. Just use old crows build pic and check for anything that looks suspicious. Do a google image search for the resistor value to double check.

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Post by Dogma » Wed Dec 28, 2016 12:02 am

Has anyone got a mouser cart for this?

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Post by Jonachi » Thu Mar 02, 2017 4:04 pm

Grayscale should really do a panel for this!

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ZZ Ardoz
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Post by ZZ Ardoz » Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:00 am

C37 and C40 are 100pf on the BOM and 180pf on the board - any ideas which is the desired value?

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Sugarfree
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Post by Sugarfree » Fri Apr 14, 2017 12:20 pm

can you guys take a look at the build I have?
the output is really quiet. a 10V P-P signal comes out at 2.5V P-P.

this build is for MU/Dotcom so it doesn't use the jack board nor the pothead.

rev.2.3.2
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Sugarfree
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Post by Sugarfree » Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:27 am

Should the jumpers on JP33 be installed even though there are no headers for control/jack boards?

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Sugarfree
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Post by Sugarfree » Tue Apr 18, 2017 12:29 pm

all functions of the build seem to be working properly.
The low output level really bothers me though.

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Post by jflower » Fri May 05, 2017 10:05 am

Hey folks,

hoping to finish up this build on board rev 2.3.2 from oct 2015, I have a couple questions for clarification. It's quite possible i have an old BOM, but can't seem to find an updated one anywhere. I'd like to know what you all put in.

Earlier in the thread someone asked about R55 and R58 which on the board/schematic say 130k and in the BOM say 200k. Is the 200k a new/preferred value? I can't quite make it out from the photos y'all have posted.

Second, R101 says 3M3 on the board/schem and 4M7 on the BOM. I'm assuming this change has to do with the 12v power supply?


thanks everyone!
jf

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Parts question

Post by groove » Thu May 18, 2017 4:34 pm

Hi OldCrow,

I'm wondering if the 3.3u NP electrolytics can be swapped for polyester film caps, instead?
Are they electrolytics just because of the size/high value or for another reason?

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Re: Parts question

Post by oldcrow » Thu May 18, 2017 8:31 pm

If you have 3.3 microfarad polys, use em. These are all just AC coupling with a large enough value that low frequencies aren't attenuated. --Crow
groove wrote:Hi OldCrow,

I'm wondering if the 3.3u NP electrolytics can be swapped for polyester film caps, instead?
Are they electrolytics just because of the size/high value or for another reason?

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Post by GryphonP3 » Sat May 20, 2017 7:04 am

jflower wrote:Hey folks,

hoping to finish up this build on board rev 2.3.2 from oct 2015, I have a couple questions for clarification. It's quite possible i have an old BOM, but can't seem to find an updated one anywhere. I'd like to know what you all put in.

Earlier in the thread someone asked about R55 and R58 which on the board/schematic say 130k and in the BOM say 200k. Is the 200k a new/preferred value? I can't quite make it out from the photos y'all have posted.

Second, R101 says 3M3 on the board/schem and 4M7 on the BOM. I'm assuming this change has to do with the 12v power supply?


thanks everyone!
jf
I used the silkscreen values for everything and mine works perfectly.
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Shoggoth
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Post by Shoggoth » Fri May 26, 2017 8:41 am

I have a few questions:
Maybe I'm not understanding the routing, but is it possible to chain LPF1 into LPF2 for a sort-of 24db/oct filter response? I'm assuming you can do that with the split configuration (Split on, LPF1 into Input 3).

I see some people mentioning schematics, and I'm hoping they are provided with a purchase. My main interest would be to add/hack a separate FM input for LPF2. Would that be difficult?

What's the cost of sourcing the panel from FPE? I see the original kits were about $100, and with the PCBs costing $40 does that mean the panel is around $60?

Finally, has anyone also built the Random Source/Haible Dual Wasp? Really interested in a dual filter and can't decide between these two - they both sound awesome.

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