[Shipping] Euro DIY Mid/Side Encoder/Decoder PCB/panel

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I would be interested in:

Through-hole PCB
44
63%
SMT PCB
26
37%
 
Total votes: 70

bvdwal
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fuse problem

Post by bvdwal » Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:17 pm

just finished and fixed mine :)

looking forward for mindfux :)
'Hello whirled'

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Tue Jun 07, 2016 6:02 pm

Just finished mine. Ran MI Elements L/R to M/S to L/R....instant spatial awesome sauce :sb:

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L.C.O.
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Post by L.C.O. » Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:48 pm

Is there a build document available for this kit?
And/or high res photos of both sides of fully assembled boards?

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:16 pm

L.C.O. wrote:Is there a build document available for this kit?
And/or high res photos of both sides of fully assembled boards?
No, there are only two values of resistor and it's very straightforward, components only on one side of the board. All the info you need is in the second post on this thread. :tu:

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teebeehex
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Post by teebeehex » Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:28 pm

Super quick and easy to build!
Image[/img]

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L.C.O.
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Post by L.C.O. » Wed Jun 08, 2016 5:30 pm

teebeehex wrote:Super quick and easy to build!
Image[/img]
Thank you for posting the picture!

Seeing how everything is on the same side, including a high res image of th eboard in the first post would be super useful to a lot of people, I think. Certainly for me :-)

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:22 pm

L.C.O. wrote:
teebeehex wrote:Super quick and easy to build!
Image[/img]
Thank you for posting the picture!

Seeing how everything is on the same side, including a high res image of th eboard in the first post would be super useful to a lot of people, I think. Certainly for me :-)
Done. Regarding the resistors, R13, R14, R19 and R20 are 1k, all others are 10k. On the picture they're the slightly different coloured ones near the second and forth opamps, the two closest to the second opamp and the two second closest to the forth. It's all labelled on the PCB anyway. :tu:

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muffdiver
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Post by muffdiver » Thu Jun 09, 2016 2:12 pm

How are people using theirs?

I made a nice mutable clouds M/S send/return yesterday. Its been fun sending mid and side to different VCAs and using the different outs from Serge WaveMultiplier.

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jgb
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Post by jgb » Fri Jun 10, 2016 2:57 am

Just finished my build of the Thonk kit. I had a hard time getting the 0.1% resistors through the holes since they were 1/4W and not 1/8W. For some of the resistors it even shaved off some metal from the legs when I pulled them through the holes.

Except for that, quick and easy build and an excellent module!

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unrecordings
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Post by unrecordings » Fri Jun 10, 2016 4:38 am

Do you have a couple of through hole boards (no panels) to ship to the UK
I fancy converting to MOTM format

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bard1234
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Post by bard1234 » Wed Jun 15, 2016 1:48 pm

done, easiest kit I ever built :) took <1hour and now looking forward to exploring the stereo image and beyond.

nikbee
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Post by nikbee » Wed Jun 15, 2016 9:08 pm

nothing to add except to say that this is the best!

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L.C.O.
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Post by L.C.O. » Thu Jun 23, 2016 7:10 am

jgb wrote:Just finished my build of the Thonk kit. I had a hard time getting the 0.1% resistors through the holes since they were 1/4W and not 1/8W. For some of the resistors it even shaved off some metal from the legs when I pulled them through the holes.

Except for that, quick and easy build and an excellent module!
I built min last night, and noticed the issue with the resistor holes. They are indeed super tight. Had to use pliers to pull the legs through, and it did shave some of the metal from them at times. If there is another pcb run planned, I would recommend revising the size of those holes.

Other than that, it is a fairly simple module to assemble, AND super fun to use! I can imagine many ways this can bring a nice detail to the composition, OR provide a unique opportunity to mangle stuff up across the stereo field.

Very cool module!

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Addam
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Post by Addam » Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:07 pm

I've noticed a fair number of euro effects are mono in with stereo out. This looks like a fun way to further process these types of sounds. Would love to see/ hear more examples

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Sat Jun 25, 2016 9:23 pm

Thanks for all the feedback everyone, so glad to know that so many people are enjoying their LRMSMSLRs!

Regarding the resistor hole size: seems like some people are having an issue and others aren't, but to ensure compatibility with the widest range of resistors possible the next run of boards will have bigger holes for the resistor legs. I also tinkered around with the layout to fit a shrouded power header and make all four 1k resistors next to the op-amps, that lack of symmetry bugged me every time I made one. I just received a delivery of more LRMSMSLR boards from the factory so the revised PCBs won't be available until this lot sell and I do another run, but just wanted to let everyone know I'm listening to your feedback and improving things wherever I can.

There's now hundreds of these out there in the world, not bad for something that I couldn't even get 10 people interested in before I ordered the first run of boards. :bananaguitar:

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unrecordings
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Post by unrecordings » Sun Jun 26, 2016 1:41 am

Got my boards on Friday (thanks!)
I'm using MF25 1% resistors (from CPC/Farnell here in the UK) and they fit perfectly - unfortunately I ran out of 10K, so it'll be a week before I can finish this...

I'm converting for 5U (specifically MOTM), to aid conversion a couple of mounting holes wouldn't go amiss if you could find the space. I'll just drill a couple of holes in the ground plane on this pcb though

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Sun Jun 26, 2016 1:45 am

unrecordings wrote:Got my boards on Friday (thanks!)
I'm using MF25 1% resistors (from CPC/Farnell here in the UK) and they fit perfectly - unfortunately I ran out of 10K, so it'll be a week before I can finish this...

I'm converting for 5U (specifically MOTM), to aid conversion a couple of mounting holes wouldn't go amiss if you could find the space. I'll just drill a couple of holes in the ground plane on this pcb though
What kind of diameter hole would be good for mounting? M3? I might be able to squeeze one or two in there...

edit: I think I have a nicer looking solution, as long as MU people are fine with having their mounting holes connected to ground.

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unrecordings
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Post by unrecordings » Sun Jun 26, 2016 3:57 pm

2x M3.2 (the 0.2 helps with a little wiggle room) underneath the top & bottom jack

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darylc
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Post by darylc » Tue Jun 28, 2016 4:01 pm

Like the sound of the pcb updates.
I used 1/4w resistors in mine, a tiny bit tight alright, minor though. Nice to do a simple build for a change.
Love the red panels, have you changed to black for everything now? :(

I took the resistor matching to the extreme and matched every 10K resistor, took a while, but managed it after reading & marking 100 resistors. Maybe too extreme… but i have another to build so that work is done at least.

Didn't bother with the fuses on this build as it's my own and it'll have a set position, no jigsaw puzzling with this.

Also had some jacks without threads lying around which i used on this, i was going to glue the panel to the jacks, but the fit was tight enough and then I had the crazy idea to solder the jacks to the front panel. Worked ok… kinda hard to get a good joint with an iron, a heat gun could work though.
I have proper jacks for the next one :tu:

Thanks for these Morgan!

Image

Still have to power it up though...

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:44 pm

darylc wrote:Like the sound of the pcb updates.
I used 1/4w resistors in mine, a tiny bit tight alright, minor though. Nice to do a simple build for a change.
Love the red panels, have you changed to black for everything now? :(
I haven't officially announced the new black panels, so now is as good a time as any I suppose.

Image

The latest run of panels is black and gold, I really liked how the BuffTest and 3x3x3 Passive Mult panels came out so I thought I'd do a run of LRMSMSLR panels the same. I'll probably vary the panels and designs a bit over the lifetime of the modules but for now I'm really happy with these.

Red panels are still available at ModularAddict and Synthcube as far as I know, Thonk has a shipment with the last of the red panels on the way as well as the new black ones, and black panels are available for DIY modules directly from me via the bigcartel store.

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teebeehex
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Post by teebeehex » Tue Jun 28, 2016 10:16 pm

Ooh damn, now I wanna swap out my reds for blacks! :zombie:

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darylc
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Post by darylc » Fri Jul 01, 2016 7:00 am

Stab Frenzy wrote: I haven't officially announced the new black panels, so now is as good a time as any I suppose.
Ah sorry! :doh: I just noticed it on bigcartel when i was double checking some parts.

I do really like the black/gold combo, works really well for your stuff!

Although personally i'd take that dark red over black any day. Although i know theres alot of people who won't even consider a red panel no matter what the module is….

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thetwlo
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Post by thetwlo » Fri Jul 01, 2016 5:22 pm

teebeehex wrote:Super quick and easy to build!
Image[/img]
are those just normal ceramics for the 22pf caps(above each NE5532?)
I was under the impression better caps should be used there?
Think I used Mica, just because I found locally.

This thing sounds fantastic! Loving mine.

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:56 pm

thetwlo wrote:are those just normal ceramics for the 22pf caps(above each NE5532?)
I was under the impression better caps should be used there?
Think I used Mica, just because I found locally.

This thing sounds fantastic! Loving mine.
As long as you use C0Gs (which is normal for 22pF ceramics) you shouldn't have an issue using ceramics. You could use silver micas or polyesters but they cost around 100x more than the ceramics from my supplier. There's also a 33pF wima polypropylene which is reasonably priced and fits the footprint on the board, they seem to have a good rep for sound quality. Edit: actually those wimas won't fit the footprint on the board.

They're just there for high frequency stability, you could probably leave them out with no ill effects if you felt like it. I might build one without them to test one day.
Last edited by Stab Frenzy on Fri Jul 01, 2016 8:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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thetwlo
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Post by thetwlo » Fri Jul 01, 2016 7:09 pm

Stab Frenzy wrote: As long as you use C0Gs (which is normal for 22pF ceramics)
ah! ok, they just didn't look like C0Gs in the pic. thanks!

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