DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

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StrangeCaptain
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:51 am

cnicht wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:34 am
How do you know it’s not flashing?
because the flash utility can't connect

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Mar 15, 2020 1:21 pm

Are you using an STLinkV2?

StrangeCaptain
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Sun Mar 15, 2020 1:24 pm

yes

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Mar 15, 2020 1:33 pm

Try connecting with it before plugging it in to the target board

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:18 pm

I did.
I was able to get the STLink to connect to the Braids, but not to the Yarns.

I have since reformatted my laptop wwith Arch Linux and need to figure out how to use the STLink V2 with Linux.

that said I have a Windows machine in my studio that I can use as well

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:36 pm

I sometimes find my STLinkV2 doesn't connect to the Utility program.

The update option in Utility gives you the option of connecting.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:39 pm

are you using the STlink4 on windows?
I'm installing on my DAW right now

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gamblid
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by gamblid » Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:06 pm

Hey guys, i was measuring resistors on my Veils build and noticed that all 16 of the 510 ohm resistors were actually 51 ohm. This was due to the packaging saying 51Ohm instead of 51-Ohm :doh: . I replaced them and my module still doesn't work properly :\. Anyone know what this could've caused? I really cant seem to figure it out myself. If you need more info here's a thread i made earlier

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Mon Mar 16, 2020 3:01 am

StrangeCaptain wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:39 pm
are you using the STlink4 on windows?
I'm installing on my DAW right now
I’m on Windows 10 but with have to look at the Utility version later.

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Warps programmed - no lights or sounds

Post by funketek » Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:00 pm

I completed my Warps build and measured correct voltages at all 3v3, +/- 12 and the -10 AREF points. Programmed it via JTAG with no issues (did a comparison of the target and the hex file and they matched). The issue I have is that neither LED lights up and when given an audio source I cannot hear it on the main or aux output. I have also tried holding down the internal oscillator to enter calibration mode and that does nothing. I have attached a photo if anyone has time to point out something I might be missing? Unfortunately since all the voltages tested fine I soldered in my jacks and pots.. For R40 and R41 there no resistors, but am I supposed to bridge those?

IMG_0850.jpg
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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:21 pm

R40 and R41 are 'Do Not Place' so do not bridge pads or place any components there.

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:29 pm

StrangeCaptain wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:39 pm
are you using the STlink4 on windows?
I'm installing on my DAW right now
I'm using STLinkV4.2.0.0

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Faye
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Faye » Mon Mar 16, 2020 7:08 pm

I just finished assembling beehive (Plaits). It's my second mutable module after EARS and I was really looking forward to start the flashing procedure.
Unfortunately, the module itself makes a constant high buzzing noise when connecting it to power. It is clearly audible. It's hard to localize, but it is around the area of the 10pin power header. Maybe it's one of the aluminium electrolytic capacitors? What else could be able to generate such an audible buzzing sound?

Also the DC-DC converter (IC1) gets hot after a minute or so.
When connecting a speaker to the output jack, it produces a mid humming sound.
The LEDs don't light up. The Pots have no effect.

- voltage at pin 10 of the power header is 10.6V.
- voltage IN of IC1 is 8.5V
- voltage OUT of IC1 is 0.8V

Is this even worth saving?
Please help... :(

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hndmrsh
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by hndmrsh » Tue Mar 17, 2020 12:54 am

@cnicht the nearby electrolytic caps get quite warm (probably just owing to their size and proximity to the regulator), and the MCU gets quite hot too (probably expected?). My next debugging step is to do continuity tests between all the MCU pins and the PCB, but I need to get a better DMM first!

Got it working! Reflowed a bunch of stuff for the 5th time or so (especially on that -12V line), and now it's perfect! Thanks for your help! :mrgreen:
Last edited by hndmrsh on Tue Mar 17, 2020 3:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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cygmu
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cygmu » Tue Mar 17, 2020 1:19 am

gamblid wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:06 pm
Hey guys, i was measuring resistors on my Veils build and noticed that all 16 of the 510 ohm resistors were actually 51 ohm. This was due to the packaging saying 51Ohm instead of 51-Ohm :doh: . I replaced them and my module still doesn't work properly :\. Anyone know what this could've caused? I really cant seem to figure it out myself. If you need more info here's a thread i made earlier
That probably wouldn't cause too many problems, I think. Those 510Rs are part of the phase compensation network for the 2164s. I guess there is a chance that the 2164s may have gone into oscillation or something, especially the ones that are used in a feedback loop, but it seems unlikely that this was either the cause of your problems or the cause of any parts getting fried. There are some other 510s that set the maximum curve on the VCAs too, but having those at 51 will only have had an impact when the shape pot was almost fully CCW. Again probably not a problem.

The 2V on the negative rail for one of the op amps is very strange. All the negative supply pins should be connected together. If one of them is measuring 2V and the rest -12V then something is wrong somewhere and who knows what else is going on there. I'd suggest investigating that. My first step would be testing continuity between all the negative supply pins on the board to try to see where things go strange.

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Tue Mar 17, 2020 2:45 am

Faye wrote:
Mon Mar 16, 2020 7:08 pm
I just finished assembling beehive (Plaits). It's my second mutable module after EARS and I was really looking forward to start the flashing procedure.
Unfortunately, the module itself makes a constant high buzzing noise when connecting it to power. It is clearly audible. It's hard to localize, but it is around the area of the 10pin power header. Maybe it's one of the aluminium electrolytic capacitors? What else could be able to generate such an audible buzzing sound?

Also the DC-DC converter (IC1) gets hot after a minute or so.
When connecting a speaker to the output jack, it produces a mid humming sound.
The LEDs don't light up. The Pots have no effect.

- voltage at pin 10 of the power header is 10.6V.
- voltage IN of IC1 is 8.5V
- voltage OUT of IC1 is 0.8V

Is this even worth saving?
Please help... :(
Photos?

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Faye
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Faye » Tue Mar 17, 2020 7:11 am

@cnicht Of course. I hope they're sharp enough. Thanks for having a look.
IMG_20200317_130341.jpg
IMG_20200317_130242.jpg
IMG_20200317_130307.jpg
IMG_20200317_130320.jpg
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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Tue Mar 17, 2020 8:12 am

I think the buzzing is the DC-DC converter trying to supply too much current. Can you measure how much current is being drawn from the supply on each rail?

It's difficult to tell from your photos, because of their resolution, what problems there may be.

Some of the pins of IC5 don’t look soldered.

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gamblid
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by gamblid » Tue Mar 17, 2020 2:47 pm

cygmu wrote:
Tue Mar 17, 2020 1:19 am

That probably wouldn't cause too many problems, I think. Those 510Rs are part of the phase compensation network for the 2164s. I guess there is a chance that the 2164s may have gone into oscillation or something, especially the ones that are used in a feedback loop, but it seems unlikely that this was either the cause of your problems or the cause of any parts getting fried. There are some other 510s that set the maximum curve on the VCAs too, but having those at 51 will only have had an impact when the shape pot was almost fully CCW. Again probably not a problem.

The 2V on the negative rail for one of the op amps is very strange. All the negative supply pins should be connected together. If one of them is measuring 2V and the rest -12V then something is wrong somewhere and who knows what else is going on there. I'd suggest investigating that. My first step would be testing continuity between all the negative supply pins on the board to try to see where things go strange.
Hey cygmu, i actually fixed the problem with the comment you made a day or two ago in my thread. Apparently if you don't have both curve pots (R1 and R28) Veils will not work properly. I had previously inserted just R1. Very odd but at least its fixed.

The only minor issue is that the output is too quiet. I replaced the 510 resistors with 560 ohms ones. Which ones would be the resistors i can replace to get a louder output? if it is any of the 510 i actually have 470 ohms ones.

Thanks for the help.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by bonzai » Tue Mar 17, 2020 3:27 pm

Hey guys,

I could need some help: a while ago, I've built an Antumbra Cara (Marbles clone). So far, it works somewhat correctly, but every time I power cycle the module, it seems to lose its calibration data.
I've followed all three calibration steps from the usual pdf: measured voltages, patched settings.cc, re-compiled and re-uploaded the patched firmware (marbles_bootloader_combo.hex, I am using the Segger J-Link mini via JTAG connector btw) and calibrated the rate/steps with 1 and 3 V from my BSP.
Right after this, the module works just fine, when turning the "Steps" pot, I am getting a quantized sequence. Brilliant.
But when I power off my case and power it on again, the "Steps" pot seems to have no function at all anymore, i only get octave jumps as it sounds, regardless of the Steps position. Checked all solder joints, re-flowed almost everything around the Steps pot, but no luck.
Now I've just found out that when I then redo calibration step 3, it works again until the next power cycle.

Any ideas? Did I brick my STM or is it something more trivial?

Cheers,
bonzai

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Faye
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Faye » Tue Mar 17, 2020 5:24 pm

cnicht wrote:
Tue Mar 17, 2020 8:12 am
I think the buzzing is the DC-DC converter trying to supply too much current. Can you measure how much current is being drawn from the supply on each rail?

It's difficult to tell from your photos, because of their resolution, what problems there may be.

Some of the pins of IC5 don’t look soldered.
thanks for looking at the pictures. In the meantime I tried to take some higher res pictures with my reflex camera, but taking macro pictures of a pcb is quite a difficult task I realize... I'll give it another try tomorrow.

Also, I reflowed the pins on IC5. makes no difference.

I tried to measure the current, by putting the probes of the multimeter in series with the power cable from power bus to the module. I don't know why, but I get 0mA both on negative and positive rail. I tried it on another working module. To my surprise, it shows 0mA too on that module. Maybe the fuse of the multimeter is blown? But since I'm basically using the multimeter as a "wire" in series, shouldn't the module stop working when the fuse is blown??

And one other finding: I desoldered some capacitors for checking. With the capacitor removed, when measuring continuity on the pads of C16, I get 0ohm on one pad, and only 0.4ohm on the other pad. Shouldn't the resistance be considerably higher on the second pad?

Please bear with me.... :cry:

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hndmrsh
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by hndmrsh » Wed Mar 18, 2020 2:20 am

hndmrsh wrote:
Tue Mar 17, 2020 12:54 am
@cnicht the nearby electrolytic caps get quite warm (probably just owing to their size and proximity to the regulator), and the MCU gets quite hot too (probably expected?). My next debugging step is to do continuity tests between all the MCU pins and the PCB, but I need to get a better DMM first!

Got it working! Reflowed a bunch of stuff for the 5th time or so (especially on that -12V line), and now it's perfect! Thanks for your help! :mrgreen:
Sooo I guess I jumped the gun a little bit... it's basically perfectly working, other than the fact it still shuts down randomly after being on for some time :bang:. I'm not sure if it would be heat-related, because if I turn my system off and then immediately back on again, it runs for a while again before shutting down. Seems to last about 10 or 15 minutes each time... although maybe if I turn the system off and and on, it doesn't last quite as long the next time? Hard to say for sure, I haven't timed it. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this? I'll probably just try to reflow a bunch of components again until it (hopefully) works permanently, but if anyone has any ideas about what the root cause could be, that would be very useful!

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Wed Mar 18, 2020 3:47 am

Something is getting hot and has thermal shutdown protection or is expanding and breaking a connection.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:31 am

[/quote]

thanks for looking at the pictures. In the meantime I tried to take some higher res pictures with my reflex camera, but taking macro pictures of a pcb is quite a difficult task I realize... I'll give it another try tomorrow.

Also, I reflowed the pins on IC5. makes no difference.

I tried to measure the current, by putting the probes of the multimeter in series with the power cable from power bus to the module. I don't know why, but I get 0mA both on negative and positive rail. I tried it on another working module. To my surprise, it shows 0mA too on that module. Maybe the fuse of the multimeter is blown? But since I'm basically using the multimeter as a "wire" in series, shouldn't the module stop working when the fuse is blown??

And one other finding: I desoldered some capacitors for checking. With the capacitor removed, when measuring continuity on the pads of C16, I get 0ohm on one pad, and only 0.4ohm on the other pad. Shouldn't the resistance be considerably higher on the second pad?

Please bear with me.... :cry:
[/quote]

One of the pads of C16 is GND so if you're measuring resistance to GND it will be zero, the other pad's measurement seems very low indicating a short or faulty component.

If no short is obvious you may need to start removing some of the active components until you find the fault.

It's a good idea to place the power supply components first and test for the power rails on the board. Then start placing the active components and measure as you go. There's a good guide here https://westlicht.github.io/performer/build/

funketek
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by funketek » Wed Mar 18, 2020 9:06 am

Been troubleshooting my Warps build I mentioned earlier - when giving it an input source on channel 1 & 2 I am measuring 1.63V on the DAC input (pins 19& 20), same voltage 1.63V output on the mod and aux out pins and so on, but even when I remove the audio input sources, I am still measuring the same voltage. There is not a lot between the input jacks and the DAC so is that measurement to be expected? Not picking up any voltage from the output pins on the IC6 op-amp.

Also noticing that the voltage regulator gets hot to the touch. It does register 3.3V on the large pin (pin 3) and I am getting 10.5v on pin 1. I am measuring 11.65V going into the big 4.7ohm resistor/fuse and 10.5 coming out the other end. While I was probing the voltage regulator the LEDs did suddenly come on, but neither the algo pot nor the oscillator button had any effect on LED color. After power cycling the LEDs did not turn back on, although that was the first sign of life I have managed to get out of this so far.

Going to replace the op-amp and try to re-seat the STM today. If that doesn't work I will try replacing the DAC I guess. Any other advice?

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