DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

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StrangeCaptain
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:34 pm

I HAVE SOUND FROM MY BRAIDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I now have NO display in the first LED position, CSAW shows SAW.

Have checked all the IC pins and they are connected to the Caps they are supposed to be. Got a Multimeter with Continuity
I separated a bridged pin on the cpu now I HAVE SOUND!!!
THERE IS HOPE!!!!!!!

here are my remaining issues
First character of Braids LED is completely dead,CSAW shows SAW.
the encoder wheel only offers 3 or 4 programs.
SAW
something with an X
something with a G
then 1111111111

any hints or where to start with these two issues?

help and thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:35 am

Check soldering round Q3 and R3

Also Pin 16 of DISP2

StrangeCaptain
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Tue Jan 21, 2020 4:50 pm

cnicht wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:35 am
Check soldering round Q3 and R3

Also Pin 16 of DISP2
OK,
on it! thanks!!

StrangeCaptain
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:16 pm

cnicht wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:35 am
Check soldering round Q3 and R3

Also Pin 16 of DISP2
BOOM!
that brought the first Display character back!!!

there are a few segments missing but I can fake my way through if I know the menu choices.

seemingly the only remaining issue is that the encoder only seems to choose 3 programs or so.
CSAW
1111
something with an x or Z
and now FOLD (which was not there before)
reflowing caps etc. with hot air and paste seems to be working, any idea where to address the lack of menu selections?

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:05 pm

Reflow rotary encoder pins and check pins 2, 3 and 4 on microcontroller

StrangeCaptain
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:45 pm

cnicht wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:05 pm
Reflow rotary encoder pins and check pins 2, 3 and 4 on microcontroller
OK,
did that and didn't seem to make any difference.
still the same number of choices.
top row of segments now gone when 1111 is elected but other than that it's about the same.

Any other suggestions or have reached the end of the Troubleshooting path?
:)

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Thu Jan 23, 2020 3:11 am

It’s odd that the encoder should only select a few programs, does it select more if you rotate it in the opposite direction?

For the display problem check that pin 15 of IC2 isn’t shorting to pin 16.

Sikkboy
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:40 am

New plaits build, the LED status won't stay on, the led rails are receiving the correct voltage (3.3v), the switching mechanism works. Also the FM trim is always active, Is this normal?

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:57 am

Sikkboy wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:40 am
New plaits build, the LED status won't stay on, the switching mechanism works. Also the FM trim is always active, Is this normal?
Does it change model but no LED indication?

What do you mean with the FM trim being active?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Thu Jan 23, 2020 12:05 pm

cnicht wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:57 am
Sikkboy wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:40 am
New plaits build, the LED status won't stay on, the switching mechanism works. Also the FM trim is always active, Is this normal?
Does it change model but no LED indication?

What do you mean with the FM trim being active?
Correct, it changes model but there is no LED indictation. If I turn the FM trim, I get a slight shift in pitch. Is that normal behaviour?

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:16 pm

The FM attenuverter does vary the pitch when nothing is plugged into the FM input.

Check soldering of the LED driver

Sikkboy
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:20 pm

Thank you I am also trying to get marbles build working, but the y,x1,x2,x3 part of the circuit is not changing voltage values.

c0ntr4d1ct10n
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:01 pm

I built a Plancks (version 1) a year ago and now I have only just decided to use it as a standard 4 channel mixer but am getting some strange problems.
With output from the mixer, only Ch 2 seems to work. Every Channel works with the individual outputs and Input All works and routes to the mixer.

So it seems like there is a problem where none of the Channels except for Channel 2 routes to the mixer. A strange thing though is that if I patch an input into Ch 2, inputs into all of the other channels seem to work.

danielanez
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by danielanez » Sun Jan 26, 2020 2:13 pm

Would any of you know where I could find information on how to connect a Plaits to an St Link v.2 with an Olimex adaptor for updating the firmware?

Thanks!

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Jan 26, 2020 2:50 pm

You don't need an adapter.

Have a look here for the methodology http://www.batguitars.co.uk/

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by fryuioaj » Sun Jan 26, 2020 3:14 pm

Hi Guys,

I'm trying to program a Cirrus clouds DIY using jtag and i have this outpu, can somebody tell me if that means there is not problems?

I cant see any problem but the clous is showing just only yellow lights.
https://imgur.com/a/XeeOgEg
Image

Thanks!

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Sun Jan 26, 2020 3:38 pm

Sikkboy wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 12:05 pm
cnicht wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:57 am
Sikkboy wrote:
Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:40 am
New plaits build, the LED status won't stay on, the switching mechanism works. Also the FM trim is always active, Is this normal?
Does it change model but no LED indication?

What do you mean with the FM trim being active?
Correct, it changes model but there is no LED indictation. If I turn the FM trim, I get a slight shift in pitch. Is that normal behaviour?
Fixed it, Now I am noticing that the aux out channel has less headroom or volume than the main out, is this normal behaviour?

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Jan 26, 2020 3:51 pm

Some models have less output at the AUX output but not hugely so.

I'd check the component values round IC8B.

Sikkboy
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Mon Jan 27, 2020 12:37 pm

Hello!

I am trying to get marbles build working, but the y,x1,x2,x3 part of the circuit is not changing voltage values. Anyone have a clue as to what it might be?

bman
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by bman » Mon Jan 27, 2020 6:34 pm

I built an Antumbra Knit (Plaits clone) a while back and it's my ugliest DIY child. I made most of my mistakes here and learned a lot of lessons the hard way. The op amp chip is floating above the board with wires going to its traces because I only had the through-hole size, I originally got common cathode instead of common anode LEDs and wrought destruction all over the LED section of the board replacing those, etc, etc... Functionally it works, and cosmetically everything was fine a few days ago except the tune pot didn't turn smoothly (from my melting it while replacing LEDs) and one of the LEDs' red terminal wasn't contacting. So yesterday I was on a roll soldering another project and decided to take a shot at swapping the pot and fixing the LED.

Well, now I'm pretty sure all LED legs are making contact, but the LEDs are behaving strangely and I'm not sure if I screwed up some connection or if I got into some weird software mode or what...

When I turn the knit on, the current mode is indicated in yellow. Instead of solid green, the left button cycles through each LED bright yellow. Instead of solid red, the right button cycles through each LED dim yellow.

If I hold the right button (freq range selection) everything looks normal. That is, I can switch between all LEDs yellow, each individual LED yellow, and all LEDs yellow with a blink bouncing up and down.

Here's where it gets weird for me... If I hold both buttons to go into calibration mode, the top LED blinks GREEN (!). When I press a button, the top LED blinks yellow, and when I press a button again all LEDs blink red!!

I'm so confused how the LEDs are capable of blinking only red or green properly (in calibration mode) but instead blink yellow/dim yellow when switching between modes. I can't find anything about an alternate mode that behaves this way or anything like that...

Any ideas? :waah: :help:

duxcub
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by duxcub » Wed Jan 29, 2020 10:24 am

I have successfully built 2 stages modules, and everything works. But each step is totally out of tune with the others.

I read a really useful how-to on a github that has a spreadsheet with voltages and how to edit the config to adjust them. But I don’t understand how to get such precise voltage measurements. https://github.com/forestcaver/MIStagesStuff

Can anyone offer some advice? Thanks!

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forestcaver
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by forestcaver » Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:48 am

duxcub wrote:
Wed Jan 29, 2020 10:24 am
But I don’t understand how to get such precise voltage measurements.
Can anyone offer some advice? Thanks!
Not sure I understand the question - it seems banal to just say “use an accurate and precise voltmeter”
(Ideally you want at least a 50,000 count meter for precision - accuracy is another matter !).
Not sure if that answers your question or not....

bman
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by bman » Wed Jan 29, 2020 1:56 pm

bman wrote:
Mon Jan 27, 2020 6:34 pm
...
Any ideas? :waah: :help:
I wouldn't say I "figured it out" but I think it had something to do with the model input. I thought there was a short across the ceradiode next to the model jack so I replaced the ceradiode, the resistor, and the jack itself. Turns out measuring continuity across the ceradiode just looks like a short but now the LEDs are lighting correctly in green/red instead of always yellow.

I guess I'll have to be satisfied with that. :despair:

AlterX
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by AlterX » Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:18 pm

MI Streams - No MCU activity.

Finished MI Streams last night, powered up, no Life in Bar Graph LEDs and cannot select any modes.

You can add an input audio signal and you can get an audio output which can be (filter tweeked / resonance tuned) :-)

On checking the MCU. All Voltages are good. All Ov are good. All continuity between MCU DAC and Bar Graph check out.
Voltages on Bar Graph are good. Scoped signal outputs from MCU, nothing to DAC or Bar Graph.
All Volts on the board including References are good and in Spec.

The MCU was flashed with the Google Sheets linked Streams Boot loader / Streams Hex files. All checksum report correct.

Have I missed something, or is the MCU suspect or Firmware not running. Is there a updated Firmware .hex file(s).

Ideas from the room pse :-)

duxcub
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by duxcub » Wed Jan 29, 2020 7:25 pm

forestcaver wrote:
Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:48 am
Not sure I understand the question - it seems banal to just say “use an accurate and precise voltmeter”
(Ideally you want at least a 50,000 count meter for precision - accuracy is another matter !).
Not sure if that answers your question or not....
In his spreadsheet, he has values like this for a 2v reading: 2.03158v.

I’ve never needed a multimeter/voltmeter that accurate. 50,000 count multimeters are $300-500 on Amazon. Is that what I’m looking for? Kinda stinks to pay that much for something I only need for this one application :(

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