DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

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gamblid
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by gamblid » Thu Mar 05, 2020 9:39 pm

autodafe wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 5:47 pm
gamblid wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:43 pm
I successfully flipped one of two of the chips but the second one removed a pad. The chip i successfully flipped just has one channel working sadly.. im actually shocked there's no polarity pointer on the pcb for such an expensive chip. This is awful. Thank you for your help
holy cow that's bad!
are you using hot air or standard soldering iron?
as cnicht said, look carefully at the image i posted (it's the "top" 2164)
pads 1 and 8 are not even used, so if you lifted ONE OF THOSE pads you'll have no issues (happened to me sometimes after multiple solder/desolder)
if you removed one of the OTHER PADS, in some cases, they are connected to their neighbour resistor and you can join them with a tiny blob of solder, if not, trace the route in Eagle and then use a piece of thin wire...
Yes, i lifted one of the output pads that goes to a resistor. Im still thinking in between just buying a new pcb or putting a wire..

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autodafe
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by autodafe » Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:22 am

blob them together with solder ;-)

toneburst
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by toneburst » Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:15 am

autodafe wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 5:47 pm
gamblid wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:43 pm
I successfully flipped one of two of the chips but the second one removed a pad. The chip i successfully flipped just has one channel working sadly.. im actually shocked there's no polarity pointer on the pcb for such an expensive chip. This is awful. Thank you for your help
I can't recommend getting a hot-air desolder station enough. 0603 passives can be removed relatively easily with an iron, but multi-legged ICs need hot air.

With the right temperature, and heating time, you should be able to just lift off the chip with tweezers.

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Altitude909
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Altitude909 » Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:24 am

gamblid wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:43 pm
I successfully flipped one of two of the chips but the second one removed a pad. The chip i successfully flipped just has one channel working sadly.. im actually shocked there's no polarity pointer on the pcb for such an expensive chip. This is awful. Thank you for your help
It's ridiculous that people are still selling boards without the silkscreen rendered correctly. Yes i know its REALLY simply just to send off an eagle file to a fab, collect your boards and sell them for 15x you paid for them but it would be nice if people looked up how actually generate gerbers correctly so their customers dont have to deal with "there is no footprint for that part" bullshit, break their parts and damage their boards trying to fix errors made by whoever sold them the boards.

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cygmu
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cygmu » Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:00 am

Altitude909 wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:24 am
gamblid wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:43 pm
I successfully flipped one of two of the chips but the second one removed a pad. The chip i successfully flipped just has one channel working sadly.. im actually shocked there's no polarity pointer on the pcb for such an expensive chip. This is awful. Thank you for your help
It's ridiculous that people are still selling boards without the silkscreen rendered correctly. Yes i know its REALLY simply just to send off an eagle file to a fab, collect your boards and sell them for 15x you paid for them but it would be nice if people looked up how actually generate gerbers correctly so their customers dont have to deal with "there is no footprint for that part" bullshit, break their parts and damage their boards trying to fix errors made by whoever sold them the boards.
I don't disagree, but I don't think that is what happened here. From the photo you can see that the little arcs in the silkscreen for the LEDs are present. Those are in the tDocu layer of the original board file, and the silkscreen for the 2164s is also in that layer, so it seems very unlikely that the board did not have the appropriate silkscreen for the 2164s.

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forestcaver
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by forestcaver » Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:09 am

cygmu wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:00 am
Altitude909 wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:24 am
gamblid wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:43 pm
I successfully flipped one of two of the chips but the second one removed a pad. The chip i successfully flipped just has one channel working sadly.. im actually shocked there's no polarity pointer on the pcb for such an expensive chip. This is awful. Thank you for your help
It's ridiculous that people are still selling boards without the silkscreen rendered correctly. Yes i know its REALLY simply just to send off an eagle file to a fab, collect your boards and sell them for 15x you paid for them but it would be nice if people looked up how actually generate gerbers correctly so their customers dont have to deal with "there is no footprint for that part" bullshit, break their parts and damage their boards trying to fix errors made by whoever sold them the boards.
I don't disagree, but I don't think that is what happened here. From the photo you can see that the little arcs in the silkscreen for the LEDs are present. Those are in the tDocu layer of the original board file, and the silkscreen for the 2164s is also in that layer, so it seems very unlikely that the board did not have the appropriate silkscreen for the 2164s.
True (and you can see silkscreen under the ics) - but it’s also worth pointing out that this isnt an original veils board - it looks like 0603, the parts are in different places and the ground plane is different.....

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cygmu » Mon Mar 09, 2020 9:21 am

forestcaver wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:09 am
True (and you can see silkscreen under the ics) - but it’s also worth pointing out that this isnt an original veils board - it looks like 0603, the parts are in different places and the ground plane is different.....
Good spot! Noticing the parts size is one thing but oh my, the ground plane!?!? On my hunt around the internet I did turn up some photographs of boards which do not include the silk for the 2164s, which is pretty outrageous. The associated price was also terrifying. I guess those are some of the boards Altitude909 was referring to.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by forestcaver » Mon Mar 09, 2020 9:27 am

cygmu wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 9:21 am
forestcaver wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:09 am
True (and you can see silkscreen under the ics) - but it’s also worth pointing out that this isnt an original veils board - it looks like 0603, the parts are in different places and the ground plane is different.....
Good spot! Noticing the parts size is one thing but oh my, the ground plane!?!? On my hunt around the internet I did turn up some photographs of boards which do not include the silk for the 2164s, which is pretty outrageous. The associated price was also terrifying. I guess those are some of the boards Altitude909 was referring to.
It’s more that I’ve noticed Emilie is assiduous in filling in the ground plane (using vias) - it looks much prettier! This one has large areas of no ground plane which you dont see on the MI pcbs :-) and that leapt out!

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Mon Mar 09, 2020 3:27 pm

Hey guys,
New Plaits build. IC2 is working but I am getting one light with a constant intensity and a second light ondulating at the same time instead of just one Led light through all 8 Leds. Any ideas as to what would be the cause for this? I also soldered the 2.2uf caps near the DAC incorrectly. Once corrected I am not getting audio out of the DAC, does this mean the DAC needs replacing?

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extralifedisco
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by extralifedisco » Wed Mar 11, 2020 3:08 pm

Finally finished up my braids module! :sb: I used the modular-addict "brads" version. I haven't done SMD before so take my review for what it's worth: quite a good quality PCB, clear labels and footprints. The electrolytic capacitors are a real pain though because the pads are exactly the same size as the device - good for reflow, bad for hand soldering. Would be nice to have some theiving pads on the QFP-32 as well. One problem to watch out for is that the potentiometer footprints have traces running under the pot body so those bourns/TI pots with the metal standoff tabs are potential short-circuits if the soldermask fails. I always bend up those tabs to be safe.

I fried a couple ICs along the way and had to kludge the programmer in with jumper wires. Nothing that can't be solved with patience and a multimeter (and copious hot air). Maybe you can learn from my mistakes! I made a video about the process here:



Liking the module so far, installed the renaissance firmware and have been playing with the chord modes with no small delight. The display is super-noisy on the power line, I can see why emilie ditched it on plaits. I ultimately decided to have separate digital and analog busboards in my case.

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Wed Mar 11, 2020 3:58 pm

Enjoyed your video but suggest you start with the power supply components first and check out the voltage rail values when you've installed them.

This way you will know if there are supply faults before installing the more expensive items.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by hndmrsh » Fri Mar 13, 2020 1:11 am

So I finally got my Rings programmed (thanks to Extra Life's video! :tu:) but it's got some issues. I can cycle through the modes, and the LEDs indicate that correctly, so I think the flashing worked... but it doesn't seem to respond to the V/oct or Strum inputs (i.e. there is no audio output and the left LED doesn't flash). More crucially, the module seems to shut down after a couple of minutes (the LEDs turn off... assume that's not normal behaviour?).

I've tried reflowing a bunch of components, but I've already soldered on all the pots and jacks, so that's proving to be difficult :doh:. Given that neither the Strum nor V/oct inputs are responsive, I'm guessing I maybe have a short on the 3V3 line somewhere? I'm measuring around 350 Ohms between 3V3 and GND currently. The voltage regulator seems to get quite hot, so my guess is that it's overheating, causing the CPU to shut down?

I'm a debugging novice (this is module #2 I'm having to debug), so I could be way off with my intuition. Help please! :oops:

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:25 am

How much current is it drawing on each supply rail?

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col
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JakPlugg Pique Calibration Issue

Post by col » Fri Mar 13, 2020 5:15 pm

Sorry, cross-posting from the Eurorack Modules MI Peaks thread as that one is old and I'm not sure if anyone is following it...

Iv'e built a couple of the JakPlugg Pique modules, micro version of Peaks but I am having a problem with calibration, wondering if anyone has come across similar problems, or has any ideas to a remedy? The modules seem to be working fine and they are loaded with the firmware from the JakPlugg github page. The problem is I can't set the voltage offset. When I enter calibration mode (2nd button pressed, all lights lit) the outputs for one are in the range of -6v and the other one is around -3v. Turning the fine/course to adjust the offset only changes it around half a volt. So the offset is way out. If i compare them with my MI Peaks clones they sound very different as a result. The MI Peaks clones I have are loaded with the stock firmware and calibrate fine. Iv'e tried the same firmware (vagrant build) on the Pique but it makes no difference. Any clues to whats happening? :hmm:

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hndmrsh
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by hndmrsh » Fri Mar 13, 2020 5:30 pm

cnicht wrote:
Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:25 am
How much current is it drawing on each supply rail?
I believe it's 280mA on +12V and 0mA on the -12V... So that's not right. Maybe a short on the -12V somewhere?

The module won't power on when using the mA setting of the DMM on the +12V rail, I could only get the reading using the full 10A range setting... (Possibly related issue: the module won't power up at all from my uZeus, but does power up from my Trogotronic m15 power supply). The module powered up on the m15 while measuring -12V, but got 0mA from both DMM ranges.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by KeatooLu » Sat Mar 14, 2020 1:52 am

Heyo guys quick question.
I built a clouds like a year ago and it didn’t function correctly even tho the soldering was pretty darn perfect with no bridges. However I was a noob at programming and I programmed the clouds with a 5V FTDI instead of a 3.3v one. Did that fuck up my processor? Because even tho it generates audio it sounds like really bad, only the reverb sounds fine, but even that sounds like it has 2 seconds of predelay and it’s incredibly annoying. I tried programming it with a 3.3v FTDI but every time it sounds different.

Should I replace the processor?

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sat Mar 14, 2020 8:00 am

hndmrsh wrote:
Fri Mar 13, 2020 5:30 pm
cnicht wrote:
Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:25 am
How much current is it drawing on each supply rail?
I believe it's 280mA on +12V and 0mA on the -12V... So that's not right. Maybe a short on the -12V somewhere?

The module won't power on when using the mA setting of the DMM on the +12V rail, I could only get the reading using the full 10A range setting... (Possibly related issue: the module won't power up at all from my uZeus, but does power up from my Trogotronic m15 power supply). The module powered up on the m15 while measuring -12V, but got 0mA from both DMM ranges.
It would be useful to post some high resolution photos of the build so we can see if any errors can be spotted.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sat Mar 14, 2020 8:20 am

KeatooLu wrote:
Sat Mar 14, 2020 1:52 am
Heyo guys quick question.
I built a clouds like a year ago and it didn’t function correctly even tho the soldering was pretty darn perfect with no bridges. However I was a noob at programming and I programmed the clouds with a 5V FTDI instead of a 3.3v one. Did that fuck up my processor? Because even tho it generates audio it sounds like really bad, only the reverb sounds fine, but even that sounds like it has 2 seconds of predelay and it’s incredibly annoying. I tried programming it with a 3.3v FTDI but every time it sounds different.

Should I replace the processor?
What FTDI interface did you use?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by KeatooLu » Sat Mar 14, 2020 2:48 pm

cnicht wrote:
Sat Mar 14, 2020 8:20 am
KeatooLu wrote:
Sat Mar 14, 2020 1:52 am
Heyo guys quick question.
I built a clouds like a year ago and it didn’t function correctly even tho the soldering was pretty darn perfect with no bridges. However I was a noob at programming and I programmed the clouds with a 5V FTDI instead of a 3.3v one. Did that fuck up my processor? Because even tho it generates audio it sounds like really bad, only the reverb sounds fine, but even that sounds like it has 2 seconds of predelay and it’s incredibly annoying. I tried programming it with a 3.3v FTDI but every time it sounds different.

Should I replace the processor?
What FTDI interface did you use?
This one https://a.aliexpress.com/_dWTewYh

I do have a JTAG that I program my mutable modules with but it is unable to program my clouds build. I checked the voltage on my amps and The second one is giving me 0V on V-. I did replace the amps recently just in case but nothing. But my main suspicion is with the processor because the massive delay it always has for sound to process

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sat Mar 14, 2020 4:11 pm

If you didn’t change the voltage setting on the interface then you could have damaged the microcontroller.

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hndmrsh
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by hndmrsh » Sat Mar 14, 2020 7:09 pm

cnicht wrote:
Sat Mar 14, 2020 8:00 am
hndmrsh wrote:
Fri Mar 13, 2020 5:30 pm
cnicht wrote:
Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:25 am
How much current is it drawing on each supply rail?
I believe it's 280mA on +12V and 0mA on the -12V... So that's not right. Maybe a short on the -12V somewhere?

The module won't power on when using the mA setting of the DMM on the +12V rail, I could only get the reading using the full 10A range setting... (Possibly related issue: the module won't power up at all from my uZeus, but does power up from my Trogotronic m15 power supply). The module powered up on the m15 while measuring -12V, but got 0mA from both DMM ranges.
It would be useful to post some high resolution photos of the build so we can see if any errors can be spotted.
Good call... see below for the main shot, I've also taken a few from other angles which you can see in this Google Photos album.

Image

Let me know if you need any other shots! Taking a look at some of those photos, there are definitely a few caps which look like potential cold joints, so I should touch those up... really wish I hadn't soldered the pots and jacks already :doh:. Good lesson to learn I guess!

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by gamblid » Sat Mar 14, 2020 10:02 pm

Well, im back at it again. I have moved all the components from my old Veils, which had both VCA's flipped, into a new veils pcb and it doesn't work.

So a few things. I ordered two SSI2164 from Modular addict. I previously had the cool audio 2164, but they were flipped and they burned out. I read the datasheet and it seems this chip is is a direct replacement? anyways. I test it and it doesnt really work but im clueless why. Veils should work as an attenuator when just audio is connect (no cv) and that doesn't work either. If i move the potentiometer to 100% you can hear what sounds like a crude signal of what is going thru the input. This is happening in both channel 1 and 3. I only tested those because i dont want to crowd the pcb just yet.

My guess is that either the OPA1654AIPWR is bad or the LM358PW which is the output amp. All chips are reciving +12 and -12v on V+ and V- pins, less one of the OPAs which is getting like 2v on the V- , but that one operates channel two, which i didn't test. I just removed the two Electro Caps because they didnt fit well, heres the image:

Image

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:26 am

@ hndmrsh I can’t see anything obvious.

What is getting hot apart from the regulator?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by StrangeCaptain » Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:17 am

Yarns not Flashing (yet)
Hello,
Buiding a Yarns now and applieing what I learned from my Braids.

I have soldered and The SMDs etc. and want to test as much funtionality as I can before adding parts that melt like Switches and displays.

I cannot currently get my yarns to flash.
The CPU is slightly off the pads but none of the pins are bridged and both ends of the trace seem to be coonnected fine (continuity tested)

anyone know how much hardware needs to connected in order for the CPU to take a flash?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8qeapewuumpyp ... 201131.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v45m2iyoir12m ... 01131a.jpg

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Mar 15, 2020 11:34 am

How do you know it’s not flashing?

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