DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

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NeolithicElectrophones
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by NeolithicElectrophones » Thu Nov 19, 2020 9:28 pm

Sikkboy wrote:
Wed Nov 18, 2020 11:50 am
NeolithicElectrophones wrote:
Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:28 am
I've had to reflow VCA ics a few times in some 2164 builds to work fwiw. Best to reflow everything with tons of flux in my experience before replacing the 2164. Also, reflow the mcu and dac with flux while you're at it. A few loose pins mean nothing is getting processed.
Tried reflowing. did not work. I did notice that I am getting signal at the test point located just beside r42 but not at the 2164's input (pin 15) or at any other test points surrounding the vca.
Did you check that r43 and r44 are oriented correctly? I've been confused before going by the silkscreen and not checking on eagle.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by snowtires » Fri Nov 20, 2020 1:02 am

Just built an ST Modular Pyxis (Plaits clone) and I'm having this bizarre issue: it doesn't make sound on its own, but if I put a CV (not a gate or trigger) into the Model input, in this case I used an lfo, it acts almost like a trigger and triggers the sound, although seemingly not at the speed of the LFO. Like almost all other Mutable modules and clones, it uses MCP6004s for CV, but I just put them on and they don't have any bridges and the soldering is pretty clean.

I've reflowed the STM a bunch of times, and that's my first guess as to what to replace, but it's confusing because, when it's making sound, I can tell that the switches work and the pots adjust the right thing, frequency pot works, etc, but it just won't make sound without that CV input. Any suggestions?

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Sikkboy
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Sikkboy » Fri Nov 20, 2020 10:45 am

NeolithicElectrophones wrote:
Thu Nov 19, 2020 9:28 pm
Sikkboy wrote:
Wed Nov 18, 2020 11:50 am
NeolithicElectrophones wrote:
Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:28 am
I've had to reflow VCA ics a few times in some 2164 builds to work fwiw. Best to reflow everything with tons of flux in my experience before replacing the 2164. Also, reflow the mcu and dac with flux while you're at it. A few loose pins mean nothing is getting processed.
Tried reflowing. did not work. I did notice that I am getting signal at the test point located just beside r42 but not at the 2164's input (pin 15) or at any other test points surrounding the vca.
Did you check that r43 and r44 are oriented correctly? I've been confused before going by the silkscreen and not checking on eagle.
Orientation seems fine. Ive been getting the same issue on both outputs. I keep wondering whether or not i assembled something unrelated to the VCA'ss incorrectly. Because under my understanding the signal goes straight from the input jack to the VCA and to the ADC for the LED meter. The input meter reads correctly, even if it has an offset but I am guessing that issue is due to the meters not being calibrated.
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4/9

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by RaouloPaoulo » Thu Nov 26, 2020 4:54 am

Edit: Fixed through reflowing.

I recently finished the utides2. Installing the firmware went smoothly, yet the output voltages are not even close. Outputs 1,2 and 4 output -7,4V, while output 3 outputs 1,38V! I measured every test point, every voltage measures as expected. Only the VREF_BIAS (should be 1,087V) measures 1,38V just as output 3. I already reflowed everything but nothing improved. Could somebody be so kind to have a look at the board and maybe point out some mistakes?
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constantG
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by constantG » Thu Nov 26, 2020 7:44 am

I have the exact issue reported https://forum.mutable-instruments.net/t ... issue/5796. Does anyone know what the fix might be.

Tia

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by constantG » Thu Nov 26, 2020 8:34 am

constantG wrote:
Thu Nov 26, 2020 7:44 am
I have the exact issue reported https://forum.mutable-instruments.net/t ... issue/5796. Does anyone know what the fix might be.

Tia
:( it seems that when I turn my system on and don't have anything plugged into Grids, after about 10 seconds, Grids goes into settings mode and the light on the tap tempo button is lit. Problem is all the knobs and lights do exactly as they should but holding the button down doesn't exit settings. I'm hoping that it's just the button needs replaced but has anyone else experienced this and fixed it?

If I turn the system on with a clock plugged into Grids, it works but is very slow (think this is due to the PPQN setting).

Cheers

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by headroom » Thu Nov 26, 2020 12:59 pm

Hyoid wrote:
Thu Nov 19, 2020 9:19 pm
Does anyone have a compiled .bin or.hex firmware set for Marbles? I stupidly updated by Mac and now I am having trouble starting the virtual machine. I have found the GitHub and google sheet with the lists of firmwares but they were both made pre-marbles and have not been updated.
I think you need to compile marbles firmware a few times (making changes to a settings file) to calibrate it so you need to get your VM going.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by sduck » Thu Nov 26, 2020 9:48 pm

headroom wrote:
Thu Nov 26, 2020 12:59 pm
Hyoid wrote:
Thu Nov 19, 2020 9:19 pm
Does anyone have a compiled .bin or.hex firmware set for Marbles? I stupidly updated by Mac and now I am having trouble starting the virtual machine. I have found the GitHub and google sheet with the lists of firmwares but they were both made pre-marbles and have not been updated.
I think you need to compile marbles firmware a few times (making changes to a settings file) to calibrate it so you need to get your VM going.
Yes, there's some kind of permissions nonsense that screws up restarting the VM in catalina. What I've had to do is completely flush the thing - use vagrant destroy - then it'll let you restart the thing, although from scratch, so it takes a few minutes to get going again.
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by snowtires » Fri Nov 27, 2020 4:50 pm

snowtires wrote:
Fri Nov 20, 2020 1:02 am
Just built an ST Modular Pyxis (Plaits clone) and I'm having this bizarre issue: it doesn't make sound on its own, but if I put a CV (not a gate or trigger) into the Model input, in this case I used an lfo, it acts almost like a trigger and triggers the sound, although seemingly not at the speed of the LFO. Like almost all other Mutable modules and clones, it uses MCP6004s for CV, but I just put them on and they don't have any bridges and the soldering is pretty clean.

I've reflowed the STM a bunch of times, and that's my first guess as to what to replace, but it's confusing because, when it's making sound, I can tell that the switches work and the pots adjust the right thing, frequency pot works, etc, but it just won't make sound without that CV input. Any suggestions?
I think my issue was with the board quality, unfortunately.

I shouldn't have even started this build, because some of the solder mask around the STM came up when I was cleaning the board with a Kim wipe and rubbing alcohol. I've never seen that happen, it's not like I was scrubbing it, just wiping and residue off. I tested continuity and it was fine, but the solder mask all around the STM came off when I soldered it on, way too easily. One of the ferrite core pads came off with almost no heat, etc.

I don't want to throw anyone under the bus, but I have started to notice that boards from this one vendor in particular tend to be much more delicate than others, this one being the most recent and the worst quality.
User error is certainly possible, maybe it's coincidence. Has anyone else had this problem from certain vendors or is it just my imagination?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by NeolithicElectrophones » Fri Nov 27, 2020 5:08 pm

snowtires wrote:
Fri Nov 27, 2020 4:50 pm

I don't want to throw anyone under the bus, but I have started to notice that boards from this one vendor in particular tend to be much more delicate than others, this one being the most recent and the worst quality.
User error is certainly possible, maybe it's coincidence. Has anyone else had this problem from certain vendors or is it just my imagination?
Yes,not in your imagination, a certain vendor in the states has consistently bad Mutable boards for certain modules. Never had solder mask come off with a kim wipe though, just broken traces and wrong hole diameter a few times, not enough solder mask and a few easily lifted pads etc... I have an inkling of which vendor you're talking about, since I've seen some poor quality antumbra boards floating around lately. PM if you want to share who sent them to you.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by RaouloPaoulo » Sat Nov 28, 2020 5:15 am

So I finished building a Typhoon (Clouds clone) and when I turned it on the regulators got really hot and there was a kind of quiet buzzing sound. Then I noticed I soldered on the stm chip the wrong way (there were two dots on the chips so I got confused) ! :doh: I desoldered it. Now my question is if it’s still ok to use this chip after cleaning it up?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by headroom » Sat Nov 28, 2020 6:19 pm

RaouloPaoulo wrote:
Sat Nov 28, 2020 5:15 am
So I finished building a Typhoon (Clouds clone) and when I turned it on the regulators got really hot and there was a kind of quiet buzzing sound. Then I noticed I soldered on the stm chip the wrong way (there were two dots on the chips so I got confused) ! :doh: I desoldered it. Now my question is if it’s still ok to use this chip after cleaning it up?
I'd say it's definitely worth a try but depends if whatever pin the power ended up connected to fried it.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Altitude909 » Sat Nov 28, 2020 6:37 pm

headroom wrote:
Sat Nov 28, 2020 6:19 pm
RaouloPaoulo wrote:
Sat Nov 28, 2020 5:15 am
So I finished building a Typhoon (Clouds clone) and when I turned it on the regulators got really hot and there was a kind of quiet buzzing sound. Then I noticed I soldered on the stm chip the wrong way (there were two dots on the chips so I got confused) ! :doh: I desoldered it. Now my question is if it’s still ok to use this chip after cleaning it up?
I'd say it's definitely worth a try but depends if whatever pin the power ended up connected to fried it.
if you shorted through it (which you probably did since the regs got super hot), chances are its damaged and if you have to remove it anyway, you should probably replace it since if it is bad and you have to remove it again, youre probably going to murder the PCB and then youre out the whole device instead of a chip

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by headroom » Sat Nov 28, 2020 10:58 pm

Altitude909 wrote:
Sat Nov 28, 2020 6:37 pm
headroom wrote:
Sat Nov 28, 2020 6:19 pm
RaouloPaoulo wrote:
Sat Nov 28, 2020 5:15 am
So I finished building a Typhoon (Clouds clone) and when I turned it on the regulators got really hot and there was a kind of quiet buzzing sound. Then I noticed I soldered on the stm chip the wrong way (there were two dots on the chips so I got confused) ! :doh: I desoldered it. Now my question is if it’s still ok to use this chip after cleaning it up?
I'd say it's definitely worth a try but depends if whatever pin the power ended up connected to fried it.
if you shorted through it (which you probably did since the regs got super hot), chances are its damaged and if you have to remove it anyway, you should probably replace it since if it is bad and you have to remove it again, youre probably going to murder the PCB and then youre out the whole device instead of a chip
Good advice. I've murdered a few PCBs in similar situations and found some PCBs have super limited scope for repair before disintegrating.

I imagine a lot of hobbyists (like me) have done terrible things to many pads and components trying to fix mistakes.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by RaouloPaoulo » Sun Nov 29, 2020 9:24 am

Probably gonna order a new one. I lifted some pads anyway, so I really don’t want to inflict more damage than necessary :hihi:
What’s the smartest thing to do in that case? just solder it on the normal way, then connect the pins on the lifted pads with the the corresponding component with a wire?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by veets » Sun Dec 06, 2020 11:00 am

I built a uBurst 1.1 awhile back that I've never been able to get to work. I think it has a short, but I've been over every square mm of the board with a 10x loupe and can't seem to find it. All of the ICs and caps are properly oriented, as is the MB1S. The only clue I have is this: there is a bit of solder splattered around the terminals of the MB1S (see photo). I suspect this occurred during power-up due to the as-yet unidentified short. Any thoughts?
IMG_3696.JPG
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by dudesandfood » Mon Dec 07, 2020 2:34 am

I've got a question about a build - I'm working on a Marbles. It looks like the t section is working appropriately, but there's no change to the y or x LEDs (or sometimes they slowly come up to a color but no further movement). However, if I give the x side an external clock or just feed one of the t outs into the clock jack, it seems to work just fine. Any tips on where to look to get the x side to run off the internal clock?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by dudesandfood » Mon Dec 07, 2020 9:03 pm

Update to my question - I fixed it! I think what happened is that I had a bad connection along the line from the x side clock input to the main chip, and the board was thinking there was an input and not running by default off the internal clock. The t and x clock inputs share a kind of mirror circuit to the normalization probe, and I got different resistances at corresponding places along each circuit when they should be the same. I replaced the x clock jack and reflowed the x clock side of that circuit (with some difficulty) and now it appears to be in working order.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by japes » Wed Dec 09, 2020 3:50 pm

Anyone have the part # for the push button that goes to the freeze on Monsoon?

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Re:

Post by ndoe22 » Wed Dec 09, 2020 4:55 pm

c0ntr4d1ct10n wrote:
Tue Oct 09, 2018 11:00 pm
futureman wrote:I just finished up a microburst from magpie and Im having an issue. I was a bit bad/cocky and didnt test out my 3.3 and -3.3 rails prior to putting on the microcontroller...I know. When I plugged it in the first time to flash it all 4 LEDs lit and everything looked good. The 3.3 and -3.3 rails were both putting out the right voltage (the -3.3V was getting relatively hot, but nothing crazy). The second I plugged up the SWD connector to flash though the large 4.7ohm resistor next to the -3.3 smoked out. I replaced it - plugged in again, all seems more or less normal until I connect the SWD cable - now maybe it's just coincidence that the resistor went both times while connecting the programming cable, but that seems unlikely since the first time I plugged the module into power it was running for a few minutes while I checked some things out.

I inspected all the legs on the controller again and cant see any bridges. I did notice though I have a very low ohms reading between output and ground on the -3.3V IC. Im not wiz, but it doesn't seem like I could have a short to ground and still be getting a steady -3.3V reading on my DMM though. Has anyone run into similar problems or have a suggestion as to what's likely to be going on?
Low ohms between power output and ground means there is a short which is what's blowing up your 4.7R (that's what kept happening to my nrings which I found out later I had fried my Arm cortex - initially i incorrectly soldered the ground leg of a pot to the heatsink connected to the power output of the voltage regulator). First check if there are shorts on the stlink device itself.

I've currently just discovered the same issue with my mBrane, which I suspect may be a fried chip. But am not sure what the easiest way to identify which chip it is without removing each one.

What is low ohms??? I have like anywhere from 300-700 ohm on my 3.3v rail on my uWarps. Does that mean there is a short on that rail?

The module boots and I can turn the pot and it changes color. The button doesn’t change the led or mode. If I hold it at power up it goes into firmware mode. I verified the switch is working up stm. No shorts on the stm or dac I can find and I have power to the stm and dac. My warps flashed right I think. Stlink can read it and verify the hex. All the caps on the 3.3 have that level of resistance. The noise coming out is like wavefolded digital/fax noise. It’s not right my friend said

I’ve reflowed. Any suggestions?

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Re: Re:

Post by ndoe22 » Sun Dec 13, 2020 5:55 pm

ndoe22 wrote:
Wed Dec 09, 2020 4:55 pm
c0ntr4d1ct10n wrote:
Tue Oct 09, 2018 11:00 pm
futureman wrote:I just finished up a microburst from magpie and Im having an issue. I was a bit bad/cocky and didnt test out my 3.3 and -3.3 rails prior to putting on the microcontroller...I know. When I plugged it in the first time to flash it all 4 LEDs lit and everything looked good. The 3.3 and -3.3 rails were both putting out the right voltage (the -3.3V was getting relatively hot, but nothing crazy). The second I plugged up the SWD connector to flash though the large 4.7ohm resistor next to the -3.3 smoked out. I replaced it - plugged in again, all seems more or less normal until I connect the SWD cable - now maybe it's just coincidence that the resistor went both times while connecting the programming cable, but that seems unlikely since the first time I plugged the module into power it was running for a few minutes while I checked some things out.

I inspected all the legs on the controller again and cant see any bridges. I did notice though I have a very low ohms reading between output and ground on the -3.3V IC. Im not wiz, but it doesn't seem like I could have a short to ground and still be getting a steady -3.3V reading on my DMM though. Has anyone run into similar problems or have a suggestion as to what's likely to be going on?
Low ohms between power output and ground means there is a short which is what's blowing up your 4.7R (that's what kept happening to my nrings which I found out later I had fried my Arm cortex - initially i incorrectly soldered the ground leg of a pot to the heatsink connected to the power output of the voltage regulator). First check if there are shorts on the stlink device itself.

I've currently just discovered the same issue with my mBrane, which I suspect may be a fried chip. But am not sure what the easiest way to identify which chip it is without removing each one.

What is low ohms??? I have like anywhere from 300-700 ohm on my 3.3v rail on my uWarps. Does that mean there is a short on that rail?

The module boots and I can turn the pot and it changes color. The button doesn’t change the led or mode. If I hold it at power up it goes into firmware mode. I verified the switch is working up stm. No shorts on the stm or dac I can find and I have power to the stm and dac. My warps flashed right I think. Stlink can read it and verify the hex. All the caps on the 3.3 have that level of resistance. The noise coming out is like wavefolded digital/fax noise. It’s not right my friend said

I’ve reflowed. Any suggestions?
It was a bad 8mhz crystal swapped it out and it works

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by CliffordMilk » Sat Dec 19, 2020 9:49 am

I'm stuck with trying to flash the firmware on my newly built Braids with an ST-Linkv 2 using a Mac.

I'm following these steps: https://github.com/pichenettes/mutable-dev-environment

However, I keep getting the response:

make: *** No rule to make target `braids/bootloader/makefile'. Stop.

Any ideas? - I'm guessing I've missed a step.

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batchas
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by batchas » Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:02 am

Please delete.
-----------------------------------
FS: KESAKO Player & Reverb for Serge and Buchla

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by veets » Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:46 am

CliffordMilk wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 9:49 am
I'm stuck with trying to flash the firmware on my newly built Braids with an ST-Linkv 2 using a Mac.

I'm following these steps: https://github.com/pichenettes/mutable-dev-environment

However, I keep getting the response:

make: *** No rule to make target `braids/bootloader/makefile'. Stop.

Any ideas? - I'm guessing I've missed a step.
Sorry I can't help with the specific issue, but that process is very particular about the relationship between the directory you are in when you run vagrant and the location of the make file. I include this step in my process:

$ cd Desktop/mutable-dev-environment-master
$ vagrant up
$ vagrant ssh

In this example, I have placed the "mutable-dev-environment-master" folder on my Mac desktop. I make sure I cd there before running vagrant.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by batchas » Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:23 pm

CliffordMilk wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 9:49 am
ideas? - I'm guessing I've missed a step.
As veets mentioned, it's important to point to the right directory, so just as reminder, you can drag/drop any file or directory into your Terminal window to see easely the path to it.
On my computer the command is:

cd /Users/batchas/Documents/GitHub/mutable-dev-environment
vagrant up
vagrant ssh
make -f braids/bootloader/makefile hex
make -f braids/makefile hex
-----------------------------------
FS: KESAKO Player & Reverb for Serge and Buchla

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