DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

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ericneilj
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by ericneilj » Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:34 pm

japes wrote:
Wed Dec 09, 2020 3:50 pm
Anyone have the part # for the push button that goes to the freeze on Monsoon?
Hi japes, take a look at E-Switch LP4OA1PBCTG, where TG means Transparent cap and Green led. As with any part, check the data sheet to make sure this fits your needs, and choose whichever variations on the part number you prefer (e.g. color)

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... TG/1984647

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by sduck » Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:46 pm

ericneilj wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:34 pm
japes wrote:
Wed Dec 09, 2020 3:50 pm
Anyone have the part # for the push button that goes to the freeze on Monsoon?
Hi japes, take a look at E-Switch LP4OA1PBCTG, where TG means Transparent cap and Green led. As with any part, check the data sheet to make sure this fits your needs, and choose whichever variations on the part number you prefer (e.g. color)

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... TG/1984647
612-LP4OA1PBCTG is the mouser part number that's in the BOM
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CliffordMilk
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by CliffordMilk » Sun Dec 20, 2020 4:25 am

Thanks for the info. I’m pretty sure I’m doing everything correctly. Weird that it doesn’t work for me. Oh well. Back in the drawer she goes...

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mrverschwie » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:24 am

Hello all,

Recently I built a Ripples clone and Plaits clone with success, so thought I could start a Warps clone (Twist) also. However I ran into some problems here, and I was hoping the community could help me out :) While working on this project I found continuity between pin 64 and 63 (VDD and VSS) on the STM32. I think this clearly isn't a good sign, and have been trying to solve this. However I seem to have a hard time finding potential shorts here, so some advice/extra eyes would be very helping here! I have added some photos (I removed C4 for continuity testing purposes).

Many thanks in advance!
IMG_3036.PNG
IMG_3037.PNG
IMG_3038.PNG
IMG_3035.PNG

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:43 am

Possible shorts on IC5 pins.

Difficult to tell with photo resolution.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mrverschwie » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:11 am

Let me try to upload some better photo's here
IMG_6599.JPG
IMG_3744.JPG
IMG_6722.JPG

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:32 am

Possible short between Pins 6 and 7 and beads of solder on board.

Give the board a good clean.

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:39 am

Another thought.

It’s been a while since I built these but you may need to place the sockets to make this build work as it uses a normalisation signal on the inputs.

Suggest you dry fit these and the pots.

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CliffordMilk
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by CliffordMilk » Sun Dec 20, 2020 9:30 am

I suggest giving it a really good clean before inspecting it again. Flux residue can hide errors.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mrverschwie » Sun Dec 20, 2020 11:24 am

Thanks for the suggestions! I gave the whole board a second go, reflowed all the components, checked underneath ic's and other components for any hidden traces, but couldn't find any. As for the sockets, I better make sure Vdd and Vss don't connect before moving further right? Don't want things to get smokey here :) Does anyone maybe have a picture of the board of a working one? Or maybe some golden tips in finding short circuits?

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batchas
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by batchas » Sun Dec 20, 2020 1:49 pm

CliffordMilk wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 4:25 am
Thanks for the info. I’m pretty sure I’m doing everything correctly. Weird that it doesn’t work for me. Oh well. Back in the drawer she goes...
As we don't have all the steps you did (installation, terminal etc) it's difficult to help.
At first sight from the message you posted it looks only like an issue with the path to the makefile.

As info it's also posible to flash it via the STM32 ST-LINK Utility if you have VirtualBox VM running Windows. It works fine to flash directly the HEX to the ARM.
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by snowtires » Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:20 pm

mrverschwie wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:11 am
Let me try to upload some better photo's here

IMG_6599.JPGIMG_3744.JPGIMG_6722.JPG
Pin 2 of IC1 is not soldered

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CliffordMilk
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by CliffordMilk » Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:39 pm

Thanks for your help - it lives! I entered ‘vagrant destroy’ and then started again.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mrverschwie » Sun Dec 20, 2020 4:28 pm

snowtires wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:20 pm
mrverschwie wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:11 am
Let me try to upload some better photo's here

IMG_6599.JPGIMG_3744.JPGIMG_6722.JPG
Pin 2 of IC1 is not soldered
Thanks! Although it looks like it isn't it sure does connect, as i confirmed with the multimeter. Also that probably wouldn't explain the short, or would it? Might be that i'm missing something important here..

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veets
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by veets » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:11 pm

CliffordMilk wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:39 pm
Thanks for your help - it lives! I entered ‘vagrant destroy’ and then started again.
Been there. Sometimes seems like PFM when it finally works. Congratulations!

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batchas
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by batchas » Mon Dec 21, 2020 2:25 am

CliffordMilk wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:39 pm
Thanks for your help - it lives! I entered ‘vagrant destroy’ and then started again.
Awesome :tu:
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mangros
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mangros » Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:58 am

Remember to select this when programming a Plaits. So that you don't, for instance, waste an evening checking voltages, reflowing everything and melting trimpots...
plaits.png
plaits.png (15.79 KiB) Viewed 168 times
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by jackpf » Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:38 pm

Hi all,

So i feel like I'm getting close to having a working Rings...
My current problem is that I seem to be getting a HardFault, which causes the module to crash on boot. I've found that it's caused by something going on in FillBuffer (https://github.com/pichenettes/eurorack ... ngs.cc#L88). Commenting out this method makes the module respond correctly (ie. the LEDs/buttons work as they should) but obviously I get no audio output.

So I'm guessing the problem is something to do with the audio codec? But I've checked voltages and pin continuity, everything seems fine.
And strangely enough, with the module "crashed" in the HardFault handler, I still get audio output, although it's super distorted. But it's responding to knobs.

So I'm a bit stuck with what to try, has anyone had a similar issue/got any tips?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by bosko303 » Mon Dec 28, 2020 1:36 am

Hi All,

I've recently finished a Jak Plugg Pachinko (Mutable Instruments Marbles) and am having trouble getting full functionality. When flashing the module I get the following response:


vagrant@vagrant-ubuntu-trusty-64:/vagrant/eurorack-modules$ make -f marbles/makefile upload
openocd -s /opt/local/share/openocd/scripts/ -f interface/stlink-v2.cfg -f target/stm32f4x.cfg -c "init" -c "halt" -c "sleep 200" \
-c "flash erase_address 0x08000000 32768" \
-c "reset halt" \
-c "flash write_image erase build/marbles/marbles_bootloader_combo.bin 0x08000000" \
-c "verify_image build/marbles/marbles_bootloader_combo.bin 0x08000000" \
-c "sleep 200" -c "reset run" -c "shutdown"
Open On-Chip Debugger 0.9.0 (2020-12-28-04:13)
Licensed under GNU GPL v2
For bug reports, read
http://openocd.org/doc/doxygen/bugs.html
Info : auto-selecting first available session transport "hla_swd". To override use 'transport select <transport>'.
Info : The selected transport took over low-level target control. The results might differ compared to plain JTAG/SWD
adapter speed: 2000 kHz
adapter_nsrst_delay: 100
none separate
Info : Unable to match requested speed 2000 kHz, using 1800 kHz
Info : Unable to match requested speed 2000 kHz, using 1800 kHz
Info : clock speed 1800 kHz
Info : STLINK v2 JTAG v33 API v2 SWIM v7 VID 0x0483 PID 0x3748
Info : using stlink api v2
Info : Target voltage: 3.200523
Info : stm32f4x.cpu: hardware has 6 breakpoints, 4 watchpoints
target state: halted
target halted due to debug-request, current mode: Thread
xPSR: 0x2100cc00 pc: 0x0800ed9a msp: 0x2001fea8
Info : device id = 0x10076413
Info : flash size = 1024kbytes
erased address 0x08000000 (length 32768) in 1.194638s (26.786 KiB/s)
target state: halted
target halted due to debug-request, current mode: Thread
xPSR: 0x01000000 pc: 0xfffffffe msp: 0xfffffffc
auto erase enabled
wrote 262144 bytes from file build/marbles/marbles_bootloader_combo.bin in 13.020258s (19.662 KiB/s)
target state: halted
target halted due to breakpoint, current mode: Thread
xPSR: 0x61000000 pc: 0x2000002e msp: 0xfffffffc
verified 155568 bytes in 2.657491s (57.167 KiB/s)
shutdown command invoked
vagrant@vagrant-ubuntu-trusty-64:/vagrant/eurorack-modules$



From what I can tell, that appears to have worked (as I had similar responses on previous Mutable modules built).

I guess the difficult thing with the Marbles module is that its a little complicated when you first look at it so it's hard to know what to expect. I'm finding certain functions appear to be working (X/Y lights flashing once Deja Vu above 12 o'clock, leds responding to button presses, when feeding signal into Y) but there's still nothing really happening on the output or any change when changing clocking settings.

I've reflowed the stm32f405rgt6 twice now just to be sure as well as the DAC and surrounding op amps. I've also gone over every component and carefully checked values, solder joins, and traced all voltage/gnd points to find no shorts.

At this point I'm only really leaning towards the STM32 being cooked from a previous solder attempt, but if it was cooked I can't imagine how it's taking on partial firmware.
IMG_4597.JPG
I've attached a dodgy photo of the front panel to see if anyone has seen that before. It seems to hold the previously held state for every subsequent boot. I'm also wondering if it needs to be calibrated for full functionality ?

Cheers, Alex

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mrverschwie » Mon Dec 28, 2020 4:39 pm

I've had some success here! Did a bit of reflowing and managed to flash the STM afterwards without any problems. Only thing now is that I'm not sure if everything's working correct. Both LED2 and LED3 are off when powering the module (I remember the Plaits LED's were alive even when powering the module with an empty STM). In reply to quoted,I thought maybe this Warps behaves differently, but I'm hoping someone can confirm this, or could point me in the right direction. I tried dry fitting all of the through hole components but that doesn't seem to work. I'm a bit scared of soldering these into place earlier than necessary as potential reflowing/desoldering of other components is way more difficult with all the through hole components on the board.
cnicht wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:39 am
Another thought.

It’s been a while since I built these but you may need to place the sockets to make this build work as it uses a normalisation signal on the inputs.

Suggest you dry fit these and the pots.

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Mon Dec 28, 2020 5:45 pm

Try soldering in the pushbutton switch and see if the LED responds to you pushing it.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by NeolithicElectrophones » Tue Dec 29, 2020 1:16 am

bosko303 wrote:
Mon Dec 28, 2020 1:36 am
Hi All,

I've recently finished a Jak Plugg Pachinko (Mutable Instruments Marbles) and am having trouble getting full functionality. When flashing the module I get the following response:

Cheers, Alex
Probably an issue with the DAC or path from the DAC to outputs.I would try a reflow again with tons of flux. If that doesn't work, start probing from the stm onward. It does not need to be fully calibrated to get outputs. They will just not be perfectly accurate. You've confirmed value, but have you confirmed orientation from the eagle of the original marbles? Pachinko switches some of the orientation relative to the original.

A well lit, up close pic of the back will help far more for diagnostics than the pic provided.

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by Stoneyards » Tue Dec 29, 2020 1:23 am

I have a squeaky Elements, with what seems to be a smoking gun of a problem! Hopefully someone can point me toward the right path to fix it.

The pitches it generates are just too high, even with tuning turned all the way down.

I calibrated the v/oct CV input with 1v and 3v per the instructions, but no change. Hmm.. So I started measuring reference voltages and found -10V to be way off (-2.5V on the nose). Yes! This seems like it could be the problem - since this feeds the bits that scale and offset incoming CV.

So - maybe there's a short somewhere in that path? Bad component or wrong value? I followed AREF-10V.. Reflowed the 6002 op amp, then removed, checked, then re-installed each passive around the 6002. Same deal. Reflowed all the 6004s and all the passives - same.

Anything obvious to check? The voltage is 1/4 what it should be. My next step would be to remove and check the 60+ passives around the 6004s.. :-(

(EDIT: Fixed - I had used a 2.5V vref instead of a 10V)
Last edited by Stoneyards on Tue Dec 29, 2020 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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cnicht
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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by cnicht » Tue Dec 29, 2020 5:26 am

Have you inadvertently used a 2.5V voltage reference instead of a 10V component?

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Re: DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds

Post by mrverschwie » Tue Dec 29, 2020 7:28 am

Thanks! Still no luck unfortunately :/ I really don't know where to look.. Everything seems fine, voltage from IC1 is a perfect 3.3v. Obviously no voltage going to R21 and R22. One odd thing I find is that there seems to be no positive voltage on pin 7 of the TL072 (VCC+). Only VCC- measures -12.. I can't see how this would affect the LED's though..

EDIT:
Measured wrong, ofcourse pin 8 gives +12v and pin 4 gives -12v.. So that seems to work as well :)
cnicht wrote:
Mon Dec 28, 2020 5:45 pm
Try soldering in the pushbutton switch and see if the LED responds to you pushing it.

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