[ORDER] Wogglebug by Erica Synths

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retrocactus
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Post by retrocactus » Tue Feb 09, 2016 11:28 am

I just assembled my Wogglebug but everything works except the woggling.

Unfortunately I put the pots in the wrong places and had to move 4 of them...I'm wondering if I killed something during the desoldering process.

I get a different tone from each output (woggle, ring, tone but the tones aren't influenced by the pots), I get stepped and smoothed CV output but nothing from the woggle cv output. All the pots seem to be working as they affect the clock, smooth & stepped cv output at least but just nothing out of woggle cv output or the tones. While the Rate is affected (and the LED blinks appropriately), the left LED never comes on. It barely lights up during power up (barely a flicker).

Any pointers for troubleshooting?

I've checked and reflowed all the solder points. No obvious shorts or cold joints.

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botou
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Post by botou » Tue Mar 29, 2016 4:07 am

Anybody have a build guide for this? there doesnt seem to be one online anymore

I wanna check it out before buying

idve
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Post by idve » Tue Mar 29, 2016 4:11 am

This seems like an incredibly easy build.

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ilya.n
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Post by ilya.n » Tue Mar 29, 2016 4:49 am

The manual specifies CV outs range as 15V ppt, but I only get 0-8V range.
Is that normal?

EDIT: got a reply from Grits confirming that it is how it should be.
Last edited by ilya.n on Tue Apr 05, 2016 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

TimoRozendal
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Post by TimoRozendal » Tue Mar 29, 2016 7:54 am

botou wrote:Anybody have a build guide for this? there doesnt seem to be one online anymore
it is still online:
http://www.ericasynths.lv/upload/DIY/DI ... sembly.pdf

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botou
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Post by botou » Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:45 pm

TimoRozendal wrote:
botou wrote:Anybody have a build guide for this? there doesnt seem to be one online anymore
it is still online:
http://www.ericasynths.lv/upload/DIY/DI ... sembly.pdf
oops probably should've checked the site before assuming :doh:

I was just going through mod addict

Thanks

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crc
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Post by crc » Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:35 am

just wondering.... my "smooth range" pot only affects the tone outputs on the bottom, but does nothing to the "smooth cv out" output. is this normal, or is there some fault in my build?

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jhosef
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Post by jhosef » Wed May 11, 2016 3:00 pm

I just finished assembling the Wogglebug but can't get much woggling out of it. The components have been checked and the soldering inspected.

None of the ICs have ever been installed backwards, but reviewing the schematic, my theory is that I might have a bad CD4046. I have swapping around (3) CD4046 IC's in the (2) sockets and it only seems to make the Ring Output when one chip is in the U2 position, so I think that the other two have issues. I will be ordering another but want to know if there are any thoughts on the issues below or if there may be further issues.

Below are my notes from troubleshooting. Below are photos of both sides of the assembled panel.

What seems to work:
- Rate pot: changes the clock speed
- Rate CV pot: attenuates the Rate CV In
- Rate CV In: takes a CV and modulates the clock speed
- Clock out: works
- Ring out: expected sound that is modulated by the Woggle Time and Woggle Range pots
- Right LED blinks with the clock speed

What has no effect:
- Cluster pot
- Smooth Range pot: No response
- Woggle CV Out: no CV, but seems to have a slight audio bleed with what sounds like the Ring and if a CV is fed to it, will cause the left LED to blink
- Clock In: no response to clock signal or CV
- Smooth CV Out: no CV, but seems to have a slight audio bleed with what sounds like the Ring
- Stepped CV Out: no CV
- Woggle Tone: no sound
- Tone: no sound
- Left LED does nothing

A few final tests that were contrary to the function of the module, but I couldn't think of anything else to do:
- Woggle CV Out: if a CV is fed to it, the left LED will blink with brightness modulated by the CV
- Woggle CV Out & Smooth CV Out: there seems to have a slight audio bleed with what sounds like the Ring

Thanks
Image
Image

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Pal+
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Post by Pal+ » Sat Jul 16, 2016 12:26 pm

Image

Finished mine couple days ago!

This is my first Wogglebug and i wonder if my build is 100% working without issues.

I patched an external clock to the clock input of the wogglebug and this works as expected. If i change the rate speed of the master clock the wogglebug follows that speed. Then i connected the clock output of the wogglebug to the clock input of another module and it seems that this module doesn´t receive the same clock unless i move the rate knob of the wogglebug...is this normal or i have a issue?

I also notice that the clock output of the Wogglebug it´s not very stable...I get some spikes while clocking my Korg SQ-1.

Any users of this Wogglebug out there that experienced this?

Thanks!

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Southfork
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Post by Southfork » Sat Jul 23, 2016 8:28 am

Anyone got a source of VTL5C3/2 or can suggest alternative parts before I pull the trigger on Pcb and panel?

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Post by euromorcego » Sat Jul 23, 2016 10:38 am

Southfork wrote:Anyone got a source of VTL5C3/2 or can suggest alternative parts before I pull the trigger on Pcb and panel?
synthcube?
http://synthcube.com/cart/vactrol-vtl5c3-2-bag-of-2

As ar as i know a VTL5C3/2 can always be subsituted by two single vactrol. Then you have some options available, including diy vactrols.

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Post by euromorcego » Sat Jul 23, 2016 10:40 am

and one question: If one uses different leds that require different resistors. Is it save to imply exchange the resistors (10k instead of 3.3k for example)?

For the woggle out this is clear, but for the clock out i am not sure: the resistor seems to be part of the circuit (for the woggle out, it just goes from led to ground, nothing to worry about if the value is changed).

mitchel6
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Post by mitchel6 » Sat Aug 06, 2016 9:31 pm

Hi. I am a DIY beginner and
I have a tiny knowledge of collecting electric parts like resistors or capacitors.
I've tried to find 49k99R, SMD 1206 and Ferrite bead but couldn't distinguish.
Can someone kind make a Mouse Bom..?

thaks,

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Southfork
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Post by Southfork » Sun Aug 07, 2016 4:28 am

mitchel6 wrote:Hi. I am a DIY beginner and
I have a tiny knowledge of collecting electric parts like resistors or capacitors.
I've tried to find 49k99R, SMD 1206 and Ferrite bead but couldn't distinguish.
Can someone kind make a Mouse Bom..?

thaks,
The 49k99 resistors are dead stock I think. I ordered a 50k 1% instead, I mean maybe someone can tell me a difference but unless there's particular magic properties in that .01. The 50k should be fine, it's only a bloody resistor at the end of the day!

mitchel6
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Post by mitchel6 » Mon Aug 08, 2016 9:04 am

Southfork wrote:
mitchel6 wrote:Hi. I am a DIY beginner and
I have a tiny knowledge of collecting electric parts like resistors or capacitors.
I've tried to find 49k99R, SMD 1206 and Ferrite bead but couldn't distinguish.
Can someone kind make a Mouse Bom..?

thaks,
The 49k99 resistors are dead stock I think. I ordered a 50k 1% instead, I mean maybe someone can tell me a difference but unless there's particular magic properties in that .01. The 50k should be fine, it's only a bloody resistor at the end of the day!
hi Southfork.
thanks for your help. I am going to get 50k.

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batank
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Post by batank » Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:23 am

mitchel6 wrote:Hi. I am a DIY beginner and
I have a tiny knowledge of collecting electric parts like resistors or capacitors.
I've tried to find 49k99R, SMD 1206 and Ferrite bead but couldn't distinguish.
Can someone kind make a Mouse Bom..?

thaks,
I'm late with my response, but I hope you are getting on ok with your build.

I'm new too, and I also chose to build this wogglebug! This board was the first one I had to source all the parts for myself, and the module turned out great. That being said, here's the mouser numbers for what I chose for the parts you mentioned:

28L0138-80R-10 for the bead, 581-12065C104K for the 1206 capacitors, and 271-49.9K-RC for the 49.9k resistor.

I recently had to order more beads for other boards that were spec'd as 623-2743001112LF and I think this would have worked in the WB too.

I get the impression that ferrite bead selection is not too critical as long as they fit the footprint, and the beads I mentioned worked fine on this board for me.
Last edited by batank on Thu Dec 08, 2016 9:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

mitchel6
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Post by mitchel6 » Thu Sep 01, 2016 3:51 am

batank wrote:
mitchel6 wrote:Hi. I am a DIY beginner and
I have a tiny knowledge of collecting electric parts like resistors or capacitors.
I've tried to find 49k99R, SMD 1206 and Ferrite bead but couldn't distinguish.
Can someone kind make a Mouse Bom..?

thaks,
I'm late with my response, but I hope you are getting on ok with your build.

I'm new too, and I also chose to build this wogglebug! This board was the first one I had to source all the parts for myself, and the module turned out great. That being said, here's what I chose for the parts you mentioned:

28L0138-80R-10 for the bead, 581-12065C104K for the 1206 capacitors, and 271-49.9K-RC for the 49.9k resistor.

I recently had to order more beads for other boards that were spec'd as 623-2743001112LF and I think this would have worked in the WB too.

I get the impression that ferrite bead and decoupling capacitor selection are not too critical as long as they fit, and both the beads I mentioned are the right size.
yes. my wogglebug have been working just fine.
thanks anyway :)

Love DIY modules.

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Akitamaru
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Post by Akitamaru » Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:12 am

I have a question in regard to the 100n capacitors. BOM and build guide calls for 13 but I only have 10 on PCB. Am I missing something? My wogglebug Tone and Smooth outputs work well but Woggle CV/Tone and stepped CV have no effect unless I touch a finger to back of components around Woggle Range/Time pots and nearby resistors. When I push down here, all these functions work as they should. I have replaced all ICs, check component values and reflowed all solder many times. I am having difficulty with this troubleshoot on the module. Any help is very appreciated.

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batank
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Post by batank » Thu Dec 08, 2016 9:42 am

Akitamaru wrote:I have a question in regard to the 100n capacitors. BOM and build guide calls for 13 but I only have 10 on PCB. Am I missing something?
I also searched for the other pads several times, but earlier in this thread:
spotta wrote: Some amendments to the build manual I would recommend -
SMD Caps - 10 not 13
Transistors - Board has Q3 as 3906 and Q1,2&3 as 3904 where as build manual uses designations T1 as 3906 and T2,3&4 as 3904 - may confuse some people.
For the other problem, did you checking resistor values that was suggested in the other thread? It is tedious since once they are in circuit they can't be measured properly with a meter, so you'd have to verify them based on the color bands or maybe compare with the photos in the build doc?

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GryphonP3
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Post by GryphonP3 » Thu Dec 08, 2016 6:40 pm

Akitamaru wrote:I have a question in regard to the 100n capacitors. BOM and build guide calls for 13 but I only have 10 on PCB. Am I missing something? My wogglebug Tone and Smooth outputs work well but Woggle CV/Tone and stepped CV have no effect unless I touch a finger to back of components around Woggle Range/Time pots and nearby resistors. When I push down here, all these functions work as they should. I have replaced all ICs, check component values and reflowed all solder many times. I am having difficulty with this troubleshoot on the module. Any help is very appreciated.
I just finished building one of these and I had an issue with no Stepped output. I ended up checking the schematic, and running down it checking continuity around the stepped jack output. One thing I noticed was that there was no continuity from the resistor going from the op amp output to the resistor going into the Stepped jack (R20, erroniously labeled as R26 on the schematic.) What was surprising was that it didn't seem like a soldering error - I couldn't find a single trace connecting these parts. I jumped them using some solid core wire and now it works perfectly. Maybe it could help woth yiur problem. The trace was completely missing, so it could be a problem with the last PCB run?
My cat can eat a whole watermelon ...

flesh_one
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Post by flesh_one » Tue Dec 13, 2016 2:41 pm

I built a full Wogglebug kit, but the woogle circuit is intermittent. By this, I mean the left LED doesn't light, and all of the woggle affected outputs don't woggle (just steady state tone). The right LED works as expected.

After checking all of the solder points, component values, and replacing the woggle IC socket (not the IC itself), there was no improvement.

I found that the woggle functions will jumpstart if I touch the cap circuit above the woggle IC (effectively adding a small amount of capacitance). I can kill the woggle by touching the same circuit.

I'm assuming this is a clock edge issue of some kind, but the caps were provided by Erica, and are correct. After a couple weeks of working on it (on and off), I haven't been able to get it running 100%. I have to leave a gap in my case to touch the circuit at startup.

I may replace the woggle IC, next. Please advise, if you have a suggestion.

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GryphonP3
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Post by GryphonP3 » Wed Dec 14, 2016 12:40 am

flesh_one wrote:I built a full Wogglebug kit, but the woogle circuit is intermittent. By this, I mean the left LED doesn't light, and all of the woggle affected outputs don't woggle (just steady state tone). The right LED works as expected.

After checking all of the solder points, component values, and replacing the woggle IC socket (not the IC itself), there was no improvement.

I found that the woggle functions will jumpstart if I touch the cap circuit above the woggle IC (effectively adding a small amount of capacitance). I can kill the woggle by touching the same circuit.

I'm assuming this is a clock edge issue of some kind, but the caps were provided by Erica, and are correct. After a couple weeks of working on it (on and off), I haven't been able to get it running 100%. I have to leave a gap in my case to touch the circuit at startup.

I may replace the woggle IC, next. Please advise, if you have a suggestion.
This sounds just like the problems akitamaru and I were having. Is your pcb relatively new? I am seeing a trend in this type of problem. I dont know if he got his working, but I had to jump both my woggle and my stepped signal path to get them to work, and was experiencing exactly the same type of issue before I did so, LEDs and all. I am traveling for a while and cant post where the jumpers were exactly, but one trace was completely missing from my pcb between the output resistor and the junction leading up to it in the schematic. For the woggle, I cant remember off the top of my head where it went, but i believe it was between one of the pots on the left side (maybe woggle range? One with the CCW feeding back to the wiper or something like that - I dont have the schematic on hand) and the following part down the achematic, I believe one of the resistora a few inches beneath it on the board. Check continuity on your meter and follow the schematic to see if you can find the parts I'm talking about. If you cant, I can post back with exact parts/locations when I am home in a week.
My cat can eat a whole watermelon ...

flesh_one
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Post by flesh_one » Wed Dec 14, 2016 1:17 am

GryphonP3 wrote:
flesh_one wrote:I built a full Wogglebug kit, but the woogle circuit is intermittent. By this, I mean the left LED doesn't light, and all of the woggle affected outputs don't woggle (just steady state tone). The right LED works as expected.

After checking all of the solder points, component values, and replacing the woggle IC socket (not the IC itself), there was no improvement.

I found that the woggle functions will jumpstart if I touch the cap circuit above the woggle IC (effectively adding a small amount of capacitance). I can kill the woggle by touching the same circuit.

I'm assuming this is a clock edge issue of some kind, but the caps were provided by Erica, and are correct. After a couple weeks of working on it (on and off), I haven't been able to get it running 100%. I have to leave a gap in my case to touch the circuit at startup.

I may replace the woggle IC, next. Please advise, if you have a suggestion.
This sounds just like the problems akitamaru and I were having. Is your pcb relatively new? I am seeing a trend in this type of problem. I dont know if he got his working, but I had to jump both my woggle and my stepped signal path to get them to work, and was experiencing exactly the same type of issue before I did so, LEDs and all. I am traveling for a while and cant post where the jumpers were exactly, but one trace was completely missing from my pcb between the output resistor and the junction leading up to it in the schematic. For the woggle, I cant remember off the top of my head where it went, but i believe it was between one of the pots on the left side (maybe woggle range? One with the CCW feeding back to the wiper or something like that - I dont have the schematic on hand) and the following part down the achematic, I believe one of the resistora a few inches beneath it on the board. Check continuity on your meter and follow the schematic to see if you can find the parts I'm talking about. If you cant, I can post back with exact parts/locations when I am home in a week.
Yes, I just got the kit 2 or 3 weeks ago. It was a complete kit direct from Erica.

Thanks for the tip. I'll poke around with a meter and see if i can find a missing connection. Unfortunately, I don't see the layout on their site. That would prove a missing trace, as opposed to a manufacturing failure.

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dubtoms
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Post by dubtoms » Wed Dec 14, 2016 7:58 am

I had a similar problem with a PCB bought earlier that year.

I actually damaged the PCB by desoldering an IC socket which was another source of trouble and was thinking about starting fresh with a new pcb but I would not want to buy one and end up with a missing trace :/

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evolve
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Post by evolve » Wed Dec 14, 2016 4:04 pm

I'd also be interested in hearing about your issues in more detail Gryphon.

I found this build to be rather sparse on details. No mouser links can be forgiven, but even then I ended up with a lot of problems with the BOM itself. Lots of issues with the part choice, and pcb design decisions. Although the end result looks so pretty it will be worth it once I fix mine.

Step 1 of the assembly instructions is just way too cheeky. :cry:

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