[ORDER] Wogglebug by Erica Synths

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GryphonP3
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Post by GryphonP3 » Wed Dec 14, 2016 4:38 pm

evolve wrote:I'd also be interested in hearing about your issues in more detail Gryphon.

I found this build to be rather sparse on details. No mouser links can be forgiven, but even then I ended up with a lot of problems with the BOM itself. Lots of issues with the part choice, and pcb design decisions. Although the end result looks so pretty it will be worth it once I fix mine.

Step 1 of the assembly instructions is just way too cheeky. :cry:
Ok I have a pic with me that I took before.

Image

The jumper from woggle range's pot wiper/cw pins goes to the left side of 14 when looking at the board face up from the back. Ignore jumper from R20 to the CCW pin, that was a mistake. Instead jump the bottom of R20 to the left side of R35 if you get no stepped output. Those two were the ones that fixed my issues (no woggle from R14 to pot, no stepped from R20 to R35. This is the connection that appeared to have no trace on my pcb.)

Forgive the messy messy board... I did a lot of rework before finding this fix. The reason I am thinking it is a trend is because 3 people now have had it work when they apply pressure to it.. Kind of a big coincidence. The stepped output didn't work at all until I jumped it. The woggle would work when pressure was applied.
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Post by flesh_one » Thu Dec 15, 2016 1:45 pm

GryphonP3 wrote:
evolve wrote:I'd also be interested in hearing about your issues in more detail Gryphon.

I found this build to be rather sparse on details. No mouser links can be forgiven, but even then I ended up with a lot of problems with the BOM itself. Lots of issues with the part choice, and pcb design decisions. Although the end result looks so pretty it will be worth it once I fix mine.

Step 1 of the assembly instructions is just way too cheeky. :cry:
Ok I have a pic with me that I took before.

Image


The jumper from woggle range's pot wiper/cw pins goes to the left side of 14 when looking at the board face up from the back. Ignore jumper from R20 to the CCW pin, that was a mistake. Instead jump the bottom of R20 to the left side of R35 if you get no stepped output. Those two were the ones that fixed my issues (no woggle from R14 to pot, no stepped from R20 to R35. This is the connection that appeared to have no trace on my pcb.)

Forgive the messy messy board... I did a lot of rework before finding this fix. The reason I am thinking it is a trend is because 3 people now have had it work when they apply pressure to it.. Kind of a big coincidence. The stepped output didn't work at all until I jumped it. The woggle would work when pressure was applied.
Thanks for posting. I'll confirm on my board. If it works, it'll confirm that there's a board issue, and we'll at least have a guide to fixing these new pcbs.

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Post by flesh_one » Fri Dec 16, 2016 2:23 pm

GryphonP3 wrote:
evolve wrote:I'd also be interested in hearing about your issues in more detail Gryphon.

I found this build to be rather sparse on details. No mouser links can be forgiven, but even then I ended up with a lot of problems with the BOM itself. Lots of issues with the part choice, and pcb design decisions. Although the end result looks so pretty it will be worth it once I fix mine.

Step 1 of the assembly instructions is just way too cheeky. :cry:
Ok I have a pic with me that I took before.

Image

The jumper from woggle range's pot wiper/cw pins goes to the left side of 14 when looking at the board face up from the back. Ignore jumper from R20 to the CCW pin, that was a mistake. Instead jump the bottom of R20 to the left side of R35 if you get no stepped output. Those two were the ones that fixed my issues (no woggle from R14 to pot, no stepped from R20 to R35. This is the connection that appeared to have no trace on my pcb.)

Forgive the messy messy board... I did a lot of rework before finding this fix. The reason I am thinking it is a trend is because 3 people now have had it work when they apply pressure to it.. Kind of a big coincidence. The stepped output didn't work at all until I jumped it. The woggle would work when pressure was applied.
Neither of these traces were open on my board. I also checked all of the traces near the woogle IC. It looks like I'm chasing a ghost...

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evolve
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Post by evolve » Sat Dec 17, 2016 11:54 am

Alright, I can confirm Gryphon's jump worked. I had stepped CV fun but no Woggle CV out and the left LED just emitted a steady light. After doing the jumper from 14 to the pot it worked as expected! Thanks so much for your help GryphonP3! :hail:

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Post by evolve » Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:31 pm

Obligatory "HOLY SHIT IT WORKS" video. I seriously cannot believe it after the shit show I put this thing through. Praise the ferrite beads I guess.


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Post by Akitamaru » Sat Dec 17, 2016 2:47 pm

evolve wrote:Alright, I can confirm Gryphon's jump worked. I had stepped CV fun but no Woggle CV out and the left LED just emitted a steady light. After doing the jumper from 14 to the pot it worked as expected! Thanks so much for your help GryphonP3! :hail:
I just tried and also has worked for me! Thank you very much! Very cool module now!

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Post by GryphonP3 » Sat Dec 17, 2016 3:02 pm

dubtoms wrote:I had a similar problem with a PCB bought earlier that year.

I actually damaged the PCB by desoldering an IC socket which was another source of trouble and was thinking about starting fresh with a new pcb but I would not want to buy one and end up with a missing trace :/
How is yours behaving? If its a damaged pcb, it can always be fixed by just jumping the components, bypassing any damaged pcb traces. Only takes about one minute. I wouldn't be scared of buying a new pcb for this reason. I cant confirm whether it is actually a problem with the pcbs, but it seems like this has solved the problem for 3 builds and it is pretty damn simple to do, so I might call it a likely solution if you are having identical issues. But if you describe your issues currently, perhaps I can help. I studied the shit out of that schematic trying all kinds of complex fixes before stumbling onto that simple one for my own pcb.
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Post by Phaedrus » Thu Dec 29, 2016 5:55 pm

Hello there.

I am very new on this DIY scene. I have assembled a few DIY full kits - even some with SMD .. And they have all been successful. I have bought the "Erica Synths, Wogglebug - Panel + PCB" hoping to build this amazing module .. :tu:

My question is if any of you who have already assembled your version, could in any way share your Mouser bills?
I am not used to buying all the components one by one. So I am a little unsure if I am getting the right ones from the GUIDE FOR THE INSTALLATION - sheets. :despair:

All the best
Johan.

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Post by batank » Thu Dec 29, 2016 10:04 pm

Here's the spreadsheet I made for my build from the erica bom with mouser numbers appended.

Thonk is one-stop-shop for vactrols + jacks + pots, but you can also get them at smallbear, synthcube, and others like these.

One thing that really helped me get over the hump of sourcing parts was finding this list by wiggler pre55ure here in this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=86951

Definitely check that out! and good luck.
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Phaedrus
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Post by Phaedrus » Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:21 am

Thank you so much Batank. Excactly what I needed. :hail: And the thread you referred to, is awesome.. deff. a great help.

Gonna get woggling soon.. :banana:

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Post by Whelm » Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:18 pm

Hey folks.

Is the LM555CN equivalent to the LM555N listed in the BOM (which doesn't seem to exist on Mouser)?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 12-LM555CN

I assume that it is, but I haven't quite figured out the naming conventions for this stuff yet.

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Post by stringsthings » Tue Jan 17, 2017 5:02 am

Whelm wrote:Hey folks.

Is the LM555CN equivalent to the LM555N listed in the BOM (which doesn't seem to exist on Mouser)?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 12-LM555CN

I assume that it is, but I haven't quite figured out the naming conventions for this stuff yet.
It looks like it is equivalent. The 555 timer is a common part and is made by several chip companies.
The various suffixes usual are related to the chip package and how the chips are handled/stored in bulk. If you peek at the datasheets,
you can often find this info.

In the BOM, the Mouser part numbers are in the rightmost column.
LM555CN/NOPB

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Post by Whelm » Tue Jan 17, 2017 12:54 pm

stringsthings wrote: In the BOM, the Mouser part numbers are in the rightmost column.
LM555CN/NOPB
Thanks for the info. May I ask what BOM you're looking at? The only BOM I've found is the one in the Assembly Manual on the Erica website, which does not list part numbers.

http://www.ericasynths.lv/upload/DIY/DI ... sembly.pdf

I've actually ordered all the parts now (had to go to 3 suppliers), so I'm just curious.

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Post by stringsthings » Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:20 pm

This one from batank. A few posts above in this thread. There's also a link to some more info on sourcing the parts.

Wogglebug BOM

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Post by Barcode » Sun Jan 22, 2017 2:09 pm

Like lots of other folks, I'm having issues getting my build.... I've swapped out every IC, checked connectivity on all of the "missing traces", and everything else I can think of. Here is my list of issues.....

-No output on Woggle CV Out
-No output on Smooth CV Out
-No output on Stepped CV Out
-Cluster Pot does nothing
-Smooth Range Pot does nothing
-Woggle Time Pot seems to affect the Woggle Tone a small amount but the change fades away shortly after
-Woggle Range Pot is simular Woggle Time Pot
-Left LED does nothing

I have the V3 PCB.

All the "missing traces" on my board are present and there is connectivity.

It seems to be an issue with the sample and hold circuit of the board. I will keep working on it and report back with my results.

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Post by Barcode » Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:29 am

After poking around more tonight, it seems like the clock signal dies after C18. I've swapped the cap twice with no improvement.
Barcode wrote:Like lots of other folks, I'm having issues getting my build.... I've swapped out every IC, checked connectivity on all of the "missing traces", and everything else I can think of. Here is my list of issues.....

-No output on Woggle CV Out
-No output on Smooth CV Out
-No output on Stepped CV Out
-Cluster Pot does nothing
-Smooth Range Pot does nothing
-Woggle Time Pot seems to affect the Woggle Tone a small amount but the change fades away shortly after
-Woggle Range Pot is simular Woggle Time Pot
-Left LED does nothing

I have the V3 PCB.

All the "missing traces" on my board are present and there is connectivity.

It seems to be an issue with the sample and hold circuit of the board. I will keep working on it and report back with my results.

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Post by GryphonP3 » Mon Jan 23, 2017 5:37 pm

Care to share pics? I have built 3 of these now and run into a slew of issues that I haven't had with other modules, but have been able to troubleshoot them all successfully so far. Maybe I can help if its something ai've run into in my experience.
Barcode wrote:After poking around more tonight, it seems like the clock signal dies after C18. I've swapped the cap twice with no improvement.
Barcode wrote:Like lots of other folks, I'm having issues getting my build.... I've swapped out every IC, checked connectivity on all of the "missing traces", and everything else I can think of. Here is my list of issues.....

-No output on Woggle CV Out
-No output on Smooth CV Out
-No output on Stepped CV Out
-Cluster Pot does nothing
-Smooth Range Pot does nothing
-Woggle Time Pot seems to affect the Woggle Tone a small amount but the change fades away shortly after
-Woggle Range Pot is simular Woggle Time Pot
-Left LED does nothing

I have the V3 PCB.

All the "missing traces" on my board are present and there is connectivity.

It seems to be an issue with the sample and hold circuit of the board. I will keep working on it and report back with my results.
My cat can eat a whole watermelon ...

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Post by flesh_one » Wed Jan 25, 2017 4:04 pm

GryphonP3 wrote:Care to share pics? I have built 3 of these now and run into a slew of issues that I haven't had with other modules, but have been able to troubleshoot them all successfully so far. Maybe I can help if its something ai've run into in my experience.
Barcode wrote:After poking around more tonight, it seems like the clock signal dies after C18. I've swapped the cap twice with no improvement.
Barcode wrote:Like lots of other folks, I'm having issues getting my build.... I've swapped out every IC, checked connectivity on all of the "missing traces", and everything else I can think of. Here is my list of issues.....

-No output on Woggle CV Out
-No output on Smooth CV Out
-No output on Stepped CV Out
-Cluster Pot does nothing
-Smooth Range Pot does nothing
-Woggle Time Pot seems to affect the Woggle Tone a small amount but the change fades away shortly after
-Woggle Range Pot is simular Woggle Time Pot
-Left LED does nothing

I have the V3 PCB.

All the "missing traces" on my board are present and there is connectivity.

It seems to be an issue with the sample and hold circuit of the board. I will keep working on it and report back with my results.
Maybe, it's similar to my issue. I didn't have the failed connections that others had.

I found a floating ground plane island. It was a section of the gnd plane that was supposed to be gnd, but didn't connect to anything. This explained why touching the board here would jumpstart the woogle.

I fixed this a while ago and forgot to update. I forget exactly which node in the schematic, but I think R30 (the 1M resitor) was left disconnected from ground, as well as one of the SMT caps on the backside.

I ended up jumping one side of the SMT cap to the nearest GND node (backside of pcb). It shared the same floating GND island as that 1M cap.

This was definitely a pcb layout or manufacturing error.

Works now:

Image

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Post by Whelm » Wed Jan 25, 2017 5:04 pm

Damn. I just got the PCB and parts to build this, but I'm not feeling too confident given the last few posts and my lack of electrical expertise.

Do these things ever go together as intended? I'm pretty confident in my soldering skills, but am entirely lacking in circuit diagnostics and have never had to hack a PCB to make it work.

I guess time will tell. Maybe it will be a learning experience! Will report back over the next few days.

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Post by Barcode » Thu Jan 26, 2017 11:30 am

flesh_one wrote:Maybe, it's similar to my issue. I didn't have the failed connections that others had.

I found a floating ground plane island. It was a section of the gnd plane that was supposed to be gnd, but didn't connect to anything. This explained why touching the board here would jumpstart the woogle.

I fixed this a while ago and forgot to update. I forget exactly which node in the schematic, but I think R30 (the 1M resitor) was left disconnected from ground, as well as one of the SMT caps on the backside.

I ended up jumping one side of the SMT cap to the nearest GND node (backside of pcb). It shared the same floating GND island as that 1M cap.

This was definitely a pcb layout or manufacturing error.

Works now:

Image
I checked and there is connectivity between the the area you jumpered without a jumper on my board. I'm tempted just to add the jumper to see what happens.

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Post by Barcode » Thu Jan 26, 2017 11:36 am

GryphonP3 wrote:Care to share pics? I have built 3 of these now and run into a slew of issues that I haven't had with other modules, but have been able to troubleshoot them all successfully so far. Maybe I can help if its something ai've run into in my experience.
Here you go. I used a 3.3u poly for the NP cap.

Image
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Post by Whelm » Sat Jan 28, 2017 12:28 am

I'm confused by the discrepancies in the build doc. The instructions say that R03 and R04 need to switch values, so that R04 is100k. But my silksreen already lists R04 as 100k. But the schematic lists R04 as 68k, as does the BOM. The BOM and the silkscreen match in every other way, even though the instructions say they shouldn't :hmm:

Can someone clarify? I presume that I should follow the schematic but these instructions are loopy. On the other hand, all the instructions in the build doc of values to change already correspond to what's printed on my PCB.

If I'm not mistaken, it seems like other folks are following the silkscreen rather than the schem, based on my rookie analysis of the above images.

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Whelm
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Post by Whelm » Sat Jan 28, 2017 11:29 pm

I'm having the exact same issues as Barcode. :ripbanana: Seems like the V3 PCB is a tad botched.

Gonna try flesh one's solution tomorrow/Monday and will report back.

EDIT: Turns out I missed a resistor! Silly me. Turns out my PCB was actually fine (aside from the inconsistencies between it and the BOM/schem).

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Post by flesh_one » Thu Feb 09, 2017 5:18 pm

Whelm wrote:I'm having the exact same issues as Barcode. :ripbanana: Seems like the V3 PCB is a tad botched.

Gonna try flesh one's solution tomorrow/Monday and will report back.

EDIT: Turns out I missed a resistor! Silly me. Turns out my PCB was actually fine (aside from the inconsistencies between it and the BOM/schem).
Great news! Glad someone had good luck with that PCB.

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Post by seanrieger » Thu Feb 16, 2017 12:33 pm

You don't by chance have C1 and C18 swapped do you? Sorry if I'm way off base, but I'm having the EXACT same symptoms as you, with mine.

Barcode wrote:
GryphonP3 wrote:Care to share pics? I have built 3 of these now and run into a slew of issues that I haven't had with other modules, but have been able to troubleshoot them all successfully so far. Maybe I can help if its something ai've run into in my experience.
Here you go. I used a 3.3u poly for the NP cap.

Image

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