[Available] DFG 281 Euro Panel/Control PCB

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duff
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Post by duff » Fri Apr 15, 2016 10:36 am

The pads on the 281 board are in ones, two, threes, fours etc. You can cut down strips of SIL headers and sockets to fit.

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Post by bournio » Fri Apr 15, 2016 11:57 am

Is it still 0.1" spacing?

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Barcode
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Post by Barcode » Fri Apr 15, 2016 12:09 pm

bournio wrote:Just a quick question, about to order from Thonk.

Any idea what pin headers I need for the panel PCB?
You will notice that all of the single pin headers on the main PCB point to a 2 pin header on the control PCB. I did this to add more support to the female header. The "support" pin has the * next to it and it is completely optional. Hopefully you understand what I'm trying to say.....

I am however working on a build doc. The parts I needed came in yesterday and I plan to finish it up over the weekend.

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ym2612
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Post by ym2612 » Sat Apr 16, 2016 1:25 pm

Got mine working today. It didn't work at first, because I'm a dork and I neglected the single-pin headers. This is a tight build with Erthenvar/Thonkiconn jacks, and the NKK M2013 switches I bought are just a little too tall. I made them fit by sandwiching the panel with hex nuts on the jacks and pots. I'm guessing Mountain Switch equivalents will fit better.

I'm working on getting the cycle mod from over here working. It works now with the 47nF caps I used, but it lowers the maximum cycle rate too much, so I'll try it with 10nF.

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wavefold
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Post by wavefold » Wed Apr 20, 2016 2:36 pm

is there any BOM available for this? got mine from Thonk, and I'm about to get all the compnents, so that would be handy :party:
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woodster
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Post by woodster » Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:35 pm

There is a BOM on the Toppobrillo page, linked to on the Thonk page.

http://www.toppobrillo.com/twoeightyone.html

or do you mean a Mouser basket ?

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ym2612
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Post by ym2612 » Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:53 pm

mr.freeman wrote:is there any BOM available for this? got mine from Thonk, and I'm about to get all the compnents, so that would be handy :party:
This bundle covers the board components you need: https://www.thonk.co.uk/wp-content/uplo ... _28121.zip

NKK switches are bit too tall, so I recommend Mountain Switch or similar. The jack footprints fit Thonkiconn/Kobiconn-style jacks (also Erthenvar's Kobiconn-like jacks). Ignore the headers/sockets listed in the above BOM, except for the 10-pin Euro connector. You will need the following to connect the control and component boards:

2x 5-pin headers/sockets
1x 6-pin header/socket
1x 4-pin header
1x 7-pin socket
7x 2-pin sockets
1x 2-pin header
7x 1-pin headers (maybe use a longer breakaway?)

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Barcode
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Post by Barcode » Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:59 pm

All.... I'm a bit behind with getting the build docs put together. I'm hoping to have it completed this weekend.

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wavefold
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Post by wavefold » Thu Apr 21, 2016 4:01 pm

ty! found a full mouser basket in the 281 build thread + got the other bits on Thonk :guinness:
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Post by drip.feed » Mon May 02, 2016 9:05 am

ym2612 wrote:NKK switches are bit too tall, so I recommend Mountain Switch or similar. The jack footprints fit Thonkiconn/Kobiconn-style jacks (also Erthenvar's Kobiconn-like jacks). Ignore the headers/sockets listed in the above BOM, except for the 10-pin Euro connector. You will need the following to connect the control and component boards:

2x 5-pin headers/sockets
1x 6-pin header/socket
1x 4-pin header
1x 7-pin socket
7x 2-pin sockets
1x 2-pin header
7x 1-pin headers (maybe use a longer breakaway?)
Cheers my dear. That was most helpful. :tu:
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wavefold
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Post by wavefold » Tue May 10, 2016 7:12 am

Finishing my build here, and I've noticed there's a 100k* resistor labeled on the control board. Does this mean is subject to the build notes for the 12V version? Or should just put a 100k one? Thanks
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Barcode
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Post by Barcode » Tue May 10, 2016 9:54 am

mr.freeman wrote:Finishing my build here, and I've noticed there's a 100k* resistor labeled on the control board. Does this mean is subject to the build notes for the 12V version? Or should just put a 100k one? Thanks
The 100k resistor near the Quadrature switch is only used if you are using a SPST switch(2 pin switch). I added it only because it was on the Toppo schematic. 99% of the time the 100k resistor will not be used.

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batank
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Post by batank » Sun Aug 14, 2016 9:28 pm

These were the headers I snipped up. I chose to put the male pins on barcode's panel. I pulled the unneeded pins out of the female side. This sure beats panel wiring. Thanks barcode!


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Last edited by batank on Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by calaveras » Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:53 pm

got the panel and pcb on their way from Thonk.
Can't wait to start. I've already got most of the parts on hand.
Curious, is there any reason I can't use TLO71 and TLO72 in place of TLO61 and TLO62? It's not a price difference really, but I've already got a bunch of TLO7X.

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Post by calaveras » Tue Sep 06, 2016 1:02 am

so um uh, how are you guys fitting this together?
It seems that the VR is too tall to squeeze in under the control PCB with normal sized headers. Even if I can bend that rather thick component out of the way it's gonna be tight.

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duff
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Post by duff » Tue Sep 06, 2016 1:55 am

calaveras wrote:so um uh, how are you guys fitting this together?
It seems that the VR is too tall to squeeze in under the control PCB with normal sized headers. Even if I can bend that rather thick component out of the way it's gonna be tight.
I don't remember any issues. Are you putting it together back to front?

There are a couple of images on Thonk that might help you.

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Post by calaveras » Tue Sep 06, 2016 2:01 am

thanks, I was looking all over trying to find a single pic of the control PCB and 281 PCB mated. Didnt think to go back to the place I bought em.
I'll take another look, things werent lining up right earlier today, but I may just be dumbassing.

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Post by zdarma » Sun Dec 18, 2016 1:03 pm

Does someone have a link to the mouser part numbers for the switches that will work with this companion board?
What LEDs are people using for this?

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Post by electric mist » Sat Nov 11, 2017 2:42 am

Hello,
Do you plan to re-run this ? Thonk is out of stock for a long time.

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Post by synthcube » Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:23 am

if its helpful, we still stock them here

http://synthcube.com/cart/toppobrillo-2 ... ption=true
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Post by electric mist » Sat Nov 11, 2017 2:53 pm

Hi,
I already have a toppo 281 but i’d like to get rid of the messy wiring. Do you sell barcode panel/pcb panel only ?
There’s ton of stuff i’d like to buy in your shop but i’m afraid I will have to pay a lot in custom fees. Here in Belgium, if you’re unlucky and you’re order is subject to custom fees, you’ll have to pay the taxes and 15-20€ of extra “processing fees”. Recently a 15€ parcel cost me 35€ in the end...

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Post by synthcube » Sat Nov 11, 2017 3:37 pm

we can, yes--- please email us at the shop and we will set you up.
facebook: https://www.facebook.com/2SynthCube

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Post by electric mist » Sat Nov 11, 2017 5:39 pm

I’ll do, thanks !

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Post by aragorn23 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 12:25 pm

Hi all,

Sorry to dredge up this old thread, but I'm building a Barcode 281 at the moment and I have some questions, mostly involving replacement parts.

First, the BOM calls for 10-50k pots. What's the difference between using 10's and 50's? Could I possibly use 100's?

Then, the BOM also lists three different cap types (ceramic, film, poly) - is it possible just to use ceramics for the film and poly stuff? I don't have any 1.8nF film or poly, so I'm hoping subs with ceramics are possible!

Finally, my 4393's are round and silver (as opposed to semi-circular and black, if that makes sense) and it's not obvious which pin is which... Any hints? Here's the specific part: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/610-2N4393

Thanks!

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Post by charonme » Sat May 12, 2018 12:13 pm

how do you guys fit the switches into the tiny pcb vias?
Image

so far all the pcb projects I've come across had vias large enough for switches
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