DIY 4ms SMR

[markelm]

Just finished mine! Thanks to everyone, reading this thread was very useful!

Does anybody know if the module needs any kind of calibration?

[nosamiam]

Has anyone just done say all 114 of the 1K resistors one after the other and then moved on to all of another value?

Any other tips?
.

I haven't looked at the docs yet (I'm at work) so I don't know this particular build but I've done quite a bit of SMD modules.

Like danielanez is doing, the smartest way to go if you have the patience is to solder the power components first. Make sure nothing is smoking or getting too hot. I like to cycle it on for just a second or two and then back off first with good lighting and check for smoke/bad smell. You can sometimes save components if you can catch a fault before something fails. If everything passes the on-off test, check voltages with DMM.

Then solder the SMT and whatever header is required to load the firmware. That way you can make sure the SMT is properly aligned and working properly before you add a bunch of components around it that make it hard to mess around with.

Once that is done you can add other ICs for the same reason: it's hard to realign them if the board has a bunch of other parts. Again, use the DMM to check supply voltages.

Then follow up with all the remaining resistors, caps, diodes, etc. At this point I will sometimes also solder maybe the output jack and a pot or two to try and test basic functionality. Depends on the module; sometimes you can do this, sometimes you can't. But you don't want to load up all the jacks, pots, and LEDs and then find out it doesn't work. It's a lot harder to inspect, troubleshoot, and desolder with all that stuff populated. But sometimes you don't have much choice.

That's my basic order of operations

[Staticcharge]

I don't know if this iBOM makes this build any easier for folk:

SMR iBOM.rar

Let us know if it's of use as it may help others decide whether to build it or not. With such a price tag on the parts I would think it's a bit of a gamble for some so I hope the iBOM helps.

[Staticcharge]

Well the build was straight forward enough using the iBOM, took a little under 5hrs from start to finish with only one issue along the way....The 12/5v jumper...hmmmm...idiot.

[Staticcharge]

I'm tempted to solder an area at a time (diodes, caps, resistors), sort of soldering in a circle around the IC's, so that I can leave some space for the tip, thoughts?

Has anyone just done say all 114 of the 1K resistors one after the other and then moved on to all of another value?

Any other tips?

It's going to be a very slow build.

How are you getting on with this build, did you manage with the method you used?
I've attached an iBOM and I recommend to anyone, get all of the components you need to complete it. Put all of your resistors and caps in order as shown on the original BOM or in the order on the iBOM so you know where you are and where you have left yourself.
The iBOM will highlight the component placement and give you the number, ie: R1, R2 or C1, C2 and so on. I tend to place all of the horizontally placed and the turn the board 90 degrees and place the rest, then go on to the next value. I soldered mine all in one go on a heat plate set to 200c as the MCU and most other ICs have a temp limit of 260c.
I've also got an auto solder paste applicator (USB/adapter and not pneumatic) so this makes it easier but not worth the investment if your not a regular to SMD but does cut the build time greatly.
The main thing with any SMD build is if you have to walk away from it, leave it in a state of order so you know where to start from at your next visit. Also...and this is the main one for me, relax and enjoy. With the wealth of knowledge on Muffs if you get into a spot of bother, you'll find help within these pages.

[steviet]

I don't know if this iBOM makes this build any easier for folk: SMR iBOM.rar
Let us know if it's of use as it may help others decide whether to build it or not. With such a price tag on the parts I would think it's a bit of a gamble for some so I hope the iBOM helps.

This is great! The only other time I've seen this was for the Westlicht Performer, made it waaay easier. This has inspired me to pull the trigger on the Mouser cart and get this thing put together. Thanks for this!

[Staticcharge]

It makes the build within reach for so many people, it's a fantastic module but just seeing the 114 1k resistors.....hmmm, so much room for error. The iBOM is the way forward and I'm glad people can make use of it. It was another wiggler that put me on to it when I started building SMD modules.
This is before I swept the components down with an IPA wash to clean up the PCB. The panel is a Pusherman but I found the momentary button holes to be to small, the black 4MS panel is cheap enough though so I may invest at some point.

[steviet]

Thanks everyone for this thread and 4ms for being such a good dude. Good stuff all around, this thing really does sound beautiful. Almost worth hand soldering all those passives

Apologies for the fingerprinty-fluxxy-front panel I excitedly took a picture of when it booted properly.


---
WEIRD. THIS WAS MY 100th post. It all culminated to this...

[autodafe]

I'm getting mad on a couple of boards I ordered 99% pre-populated from JLC (I only soldered all TH components, all led drivers ICs, and a couple of capacitors..which I have now desoldered)
Electrolytis where presoldered and I removed them 'cause they didn't look like well soldered...

one of the two boards is shorted, it won't even power up
the second one seems better. I was able to boot it, I programmed the chip with my ST-Link, no complaints...
but when I turn it up the CPU becomes hot as hell after 5 seconds and of course nothing works.
I have checked and there are shorts to GND on this as well...
In particular ALL transistors have their 2 "parallel" pins shorted.

Here are some pics of the shorts I have...It could be anything.but what?
(yellow circles of course means shorted together to GND)

[forestcaver]

*So* many places you could have a short on adc-vdd to gnd! Could be anywhere! I’d check you ordered the right parts eg are those really bat54s or did you order a different bat54? You could have shorts in so many places! If it was me, I’d check my bom carefully, visually inspect with a microscope and then start removing parts systematically, then if that didnt work you’ll have to start cutting traces systematically :-( The stm32 may well be toast and now shorted internally as well.... so that may well be one of the first things to remove if you have no joy with the bom and inspection....

[autodafe]

I made the order with a friend, he orderer 5 boards on JLC, one was "damaged" and never sent, they refunded.
So we kept 2 boards each.
He's not having all the issues I am facing...he was able to program both boards, no issues, he's waiting for sliders and buttons to arrive...
yeaa I know it could be anything and it could be anywhere...I have removed most of the "suspect" components first, now on to the schematics and follow them from start (power section)

[autodafe]

BTW the STM seems OK, I programmed/erased/reprogrammed multiple times with my ST-LINK and it went just fine...then I noticed it was very very hot just a fter a few seconds...

[forestcaver]

BTW the STM seems OK, I programmed/erased/reprogrammed multiple times with my ST-LINK and it went just fine...then I noticed it was very very hot just a fter a few seconds...

That doesnt necessarily mean it’s ok though :-( (but makes it more likely it is ok!)

[autodafe]

update:

I am removing all components related to ADC-VDD one by one, so far not huge progesses, but at keast removing bead L1 removes the bridge from C31-C10
removed the Bulky VR4...
but still I have C8 bridged and the OUT and GND from VR4 are bridged...

[autodafe]

removed
C22-23-24-25-26-27-64
C73-74-77-80
IC10

still bridges...

[steviet]

Keep at it autodafe, you will find the offending part(s) and you will NEVER FEEL BETTER what is your jumper set to? Can you snag some full board shots?

Can you borrow friend's board to take some measurements? Let me know if you want me to poke around my board. Maybe it's getting near time to remove that MCU

[autodafe]

gosh I really don't want to desolder the MCUwith all those pins... that's the main reason why we ordered it pre-soldered
Friend as 2 boards with all SMD components, he has programmed them, hear something from the outputs but he's waiting for sliders, buttons and switches...we are not sure they are 100% working but at least he doesn't have shorts like I have...
I plan to visit him in the weekend or next week to compare the boards, so maybe this will guide me better...
However, the short is definitely on the ADC-VDD path...but where?
I inspected the MCu with a microscope and I cannot spot any bridge...

[autodafe]

OH, and the jumper was set to 12V, but it's shorted in either position...
Question and BIG doubt: if I soldered the led pushbuttons in the worng way, could it be a possible cause? (don't think they are on the 3.3 line though...)

[autodafe]

here's a link to a pic, hope is not too blurred (I have now soldered S1 and S2 after desperate doubt. No changes of course)...

http://www.autodafe.net/tmp/board.jpg

[steviet]

Sorry autodafe, I don't see any glaring issues, and glaring issues are about all I can spot. It is possible the switches caused some problems, but looking at the schematic I think the only issue you would have run into there would be the LEDs not lighting up on the push button (don't quote me on that).

I think something shorted good and early in this process, and took out some other things with it. Some internal shorts in one of the ICs maybe. Best bet will be getting to your friend's working board and get measuring. Best of luck to you!!

[Staticcharge]

here's a link to a pic, hope is not too blurred (I have now soldered S1 and S2 after desperate doubt. No changes of course)...

http://www.autodafe.net/tmp/board.jpg

Have you managed to sort the issues out yet?
It may not even be component related, It could be a bad batch of PCBs. Who is JLC?

[Staticcharge]

Thanks everyone for this thread and 4ms for being such a good dude. Good stuff all around, this thing really does sound beautiful. Almost worth hand soldering all those passives

Apologies for the fingerprinty-fluxxy-front panel I excitedly took a picture of when it booted properly.


---
WEIRD. THIS WAS MY 100th post. It all culminated to this...

Soldered by hand...I take my hat off to you sir and raise a glass...
Did you use the iBOM?
Has anyone used the iBOM yet?

[autodafe]

Have you managed to sort the issues out yet?
It may not even be component related, It could be a bad batch of PCBs. Who is JLC?

No, I got angry with the boards after somethin like 10 hours of debugging and decided to do something else for a while
JLC is JLCPCB, I have ordered many times from them this was our firts time with pre-soldered SMD components.
My friend got 2 apparenlty working PCBs, strange I got the 2 defective ones...but I have now removed almost all components related to 3.3volts and all components I have soldered, except pushbuttons, sliders and jacks...

[Staticcharge]

Have you managed to sort the issues out yet?
It may not even be component related, It could be a bad batch of PCBs. Who is JLC?

No, I got angry with the boards after somethin like 10 hours of debugging and decided to do something else for a while
JLC is JLCPCB, I have ordered many times from them this was our firts time with pre-soldered SMD components.
My friend got 2 apparenlty working PCBs, strange I got the 2 defective ones...but I have now removed almost all components related to 3.3volts and all components I have soldered, except pushbuttons, sliders and jacks...

That's a real shame, I would assume they've carried out various tests before shipping them but this would only be an assumption. Have you tried offering yours and your friends up together to see if there's any visual differences?
I'm sure you'll find a solution.

[autodafe]

Il will try to swap mine with one of my friend while he's not wathcing ;-)
No, we didn't have the occasion to catch up, he lives opposite to me in south Milan, we will probably meet in the weekend for a "debug and beers" session ;-)