[IC] PRIZMA - 2 channel, 16 step sequencer with rainbow

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Selektro
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Post by Selektro » Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:09 pm

hadd missed the update on the firmware, anyone tried it??

bovaflux
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Post by bovaflux » Sun Jan 15, 2017 5:06 pm

One thing that I would love in a future firmware would be an option to configure how long cv values stay displayed for before it reverts back to showing you the trigger pattern!

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Switchzik
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Post by Switchzik » Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:38 pm

Hi, following my CV output problem I did more checks.
Unplugged I've check the 4k7 resistors. I'm sure 100% they are 4k7 but when I check on the board I find :

R13 : 3224 ohm
R15 : 470 ohm
R16 : 470 ohm
R18 : 3270 ohm

Is that a normal behaviour ?
And plugged on tuning mode I've CV blue 0.13V and CV red 3.25V. but I can't get closer to 0V with the zero trimmer :bang:. Any idea ?

bovaflux
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Post by bovaflux » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:03 pm

Been using this a bit more, still loving it. Another suggestion for future iterations though, again related to cv/note entry. It would be handy if white & black notes were marked along the panel to make it a bit quicker to get your bearings. If a clean panel is part of the design aesthetic, maybe using LED brightness to indicate the difference? Not sure how well that would work in practise..

Also might be an idea to visually snap to notes/LEDs depending on the current quantizer settings. So I'm ok if it would take two or three clicks on the encoder to get to the next note in the current scale, but that would only jump the LEDs two or three positions at a time too, so I can see which notes it is snapping to). Again, it would just contribute to quicker recognition of note information, which I think is really important on this sequencer, as you only get to see one note at a time.

Oh, one other question I have. Once I'm in preset mode, how can I leave without loading or saving anything? I had a panic the other day when I got into the menu by accident (still learning the ropes) and could only figure out clicking top encoder to toggle which channels get loaded/saved, holding top encoder to load, click bottom encoder to choose a save location, and holding bottom encoder to save. That doesn't leave any controls free, but maybe adding a timeout to this page would be a good idea, since doing the wrong thing here could either lose the current settings (not good) or force the user to overwrite a slot (also not good if they didn't really want to overwrite one just to leave).

Anyway, apologies if these are daft suggestions, I already think I'm spoilt with the amount of features packed into this thing! :) All the playback modes, the clock divider, the quantizer, etc, it instantly became one of my favourite modules.

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mqmq
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Post by mqmq » Tue Jan 24, 2017 12:21 pm

Hi ! I just finished building one of these but then i powered it up and all the LEDS went green and nothing happened when i turned or pushed the encoders. I tried several 328p but same thing happened. I'm guessing the LED seller sold me RGB leds :bang: .
If that's correct, what's the best way to remove all the leds to replace them ? Seems like an impossible task. Has anyone done this ?

bovaflux
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Post by bovaflux » Tue Jan 24, 2017 12:40 pm

Yeah, I think all green means you have the wrong kind of LEDs.. :( I checked mine on a breadboard first just to be sure, following the instructions from someone earlier in the thread.

As for removing them.. It might be tricky trying to heat up all four pads at once to remove the LEDs neatly. However, the LEDs are at least raised up from the board, so you might be able to snip the tops off, then just remove all the legs one or two at a time. This will obviously ruin the LEDs but I'm assuming you aren't going to try and reuse them in anything else at this stage.

It helps to have something to hold the board firmly in place so that you can then look after heating up the joint and use some small pliers or something to gently lift each leg out. I've done similar on a previous project (I totally messed up my first DIY kit) and managed to rescue it. The main thing it to not ruin the pads (i.e. burn them out, detach them from the pcb), as then the job starts getting more complicated.

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Sunshine Jones
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Post by Sunshine Jones » Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:59 pm

Image


Success! At last...

In the first build I was surprised that I actually really like working with SMD components, I was so afraid that would be the part I couldn't do, but they turned out to be kinda thrilling. I messed up hard on the LED's. I had to remove a couple of them, and then failed to get them back in without screwing up the PCB. So I had to explore jumping the LED's to try and get them working. I got them all working, but not without a bridge (so three LED's worked as one and steps 14-16 were then unseen.

Maté wrote and asked if I wouldn't like to maybe try again, and I admitted defeat, reordered parts, and the PCB showed up fairly quickly. Today I set out to build the top pcb again, and this time I went very very slowly.

The change in my operations was to test the LED's before I soldered them. Then go back and test each one as I went. Success. So pleased.

Love this module. Thank you guys for this thread and your input.

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batank
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Post by batank » Wed Jan 25, 2017 11:38 am

bovaflux wrote: Oh, one other question I have. Once I'm in preset mode, how can I leave without loading or saving anything?
I'va also gotten stuck in this situation. I guess designating a slot for accidental/junk patterns could be a workaround.

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Selektro
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Post by Selektro » Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:07 pm

batank wrote:
bovaflux wrote: Oh, one other question I have. Once I'm in preset mode, how can I leave without loading or saving anything?
I'va also gotten stuck in this situation. I guess designating a slot for accidental/junk patterns could be a workaround.
from memory, hold the top encoder!


firmware suggestion:
presets page has one lit red led for current slot playing, but nothing showing empty slots or last saved or banks, could vary brightnes/colour to show last saved, or after the rainbow save pattern, for 3 seconds the bottom encoder scrolls through colours allowing a sort of 'bank' system?

(there are now way too many firmware suggestions to be fair, it already does a lot and the basics needs to be kept usable! it think its great its more the utility side of it, not loaded v2 yet but every time i switch the case on the first thing i do is turn the brightness down!)

bovaflux
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Post by bovaflux » Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:19 pm

Selektro wrote:
batank wrote:
bovaflux wrote: Oh, one other question I have. Once I'm in preset mode, how can I leave without loading or saving anything?
I'va also gotten stuck in this situation. I guess designating a slot for accidental/junk patterns could be a workaround.
from memory, hold the top encoder!
It should be, as usually holding the top encoder exits menus. However on this menu holding the top encoder loads the selected preset! Got confused by this when I tried to back out, and ended up losing a couple of hours work. :( Won't make that mistake twice!

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Selektro
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Post by Selektro » Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:32 pm

bovaflux wrote: However on this menu holding the top encoder loads the selected preset! Got confused by this when I tried to back out, and ended up losing a couple of hours work. :( Won't make that mistake twice!
always frustrating loosing that seq/setting you spent ages perfecting!

Both firmwares say PUSH top to load BUT HOLD to back out/EXIT, but it is an an easy thing to do by mistake, but the lower one is HOLD to save and nothing on PUSH, i think if you moved the upper encoder PUSH command to the lower, so that you wouldn't mistake 'load/exit' would only put 'load/save' in a dangerously closer UI spot too

Also.... Power up settings:
hold top= Calibration (as stated)
Hold lower = encoder direction (as mentioned in thread)
But something else Ive not seen written:
hold both= all looks normal but few seconds left alone the LEDs change to selected channel Pitch readout

I hold my hand over it every time i power up (not fond of lazer surgery) and accidentally switched this on, for a few days it though the module was screwed! :deadbanana:

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szabomate
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Post by szabomate » Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:06 pm

you just find the secret-screensaver-thingy : )

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Selektro
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Post by Selektro » Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:28 pm

whoo who first easter egg find!

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windspirit
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Post by windspirit » Thu Feb 02, 2017 7:21 pm

Can someone link to the hex file for the firmware upgrade? Not sure what the improvements are but I might as well have the latest version.

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Selektro
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Post by Selektro » Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:45 am


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ZenitSar
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Post by ZenitSar » Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:18 pm

I have finally gotten the parts to build mine, but forgot one thing: the D9 & D10 diodes. I forgot that they were back ordered at mouser and never got them elsewhere. I ended up finding some yesterday and ordered, but then I noticed on the BOM it says, Only on V2 boards. I have a v3 board. Does this mean I can just put a jumper in those spots? It's unclear and doesn't really make sense.

I also ended up getting clear LED's since the diffused were also back ordered. I am fine with clear, but think it's worth mentioning that the datasheet diagram on sparkfun is incorrect for what I received. Someone did post the correct pic, so here it is.

Some of the posts in this thread regarding the correct LED's are misleading. The link that Mate' provides on page one takes you to the diffused LED's at sparkfun, however the datasheet is the same for both the clear and diffused Addressable PTH RGB LED's. The mention of RGB causes confusion because the correct LED's for the project are indeed RGB, but addressable. IIRC, the ones to avoid are RGB with a common ground. I had to go over datasheets to make sure I was getting the correct ones. People mention the pin layout and make it seem as if there is only one choice, but that is not entirely corrrect. As seen in the pic here, the current parts being shipped by sparkfun are layed out differently, with one short, one long, and two medium lengths. This is exactly what I received, though mine are clear and smaller/shorter package. I thought it is worth mentioning.

Image

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CV - SciFi Rock

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sduck
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Post by sduck » Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:42 pm

Odd - the ones I received from sparkfun a few months ago look like the one on the left. I suspect the various posts that might seem misleading are not really meant that way, just that the lead lengths has changed.
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mqmq
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Post by mqmq » Mon Feb 06, 2017 3:11 pm

So i managed to remove all the wrong RGB leds and replace them with the correct addressable leds, tedious work but Prizma is finally alive !
I'm having some issues with calibration though. I successfully calibrated channel 2 but when i try to do zero calibration on channel one i only get 9v to 11v and can't get to 0V. Any idea why ?

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ZenitSar
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Post by ZenitSar » Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:34 pm

yeah, I don't believe anyone meant to confuse. I did my homework and figured I would share the knowledge.

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Post by gruebleengourd » Tue Feb 07, 2017 10:45 am

I got two prizmas up an running last night.

Can anyone recommend a solid programmer for the ATmega?

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Post by gruebleengourd » Tue Feb 07, 2017 10:48 am

sduck wrote:Odd - the ones I received from sparkfun a few months ago look like the one on the left. I suspect the various posts that might seem misleading are not really meant that way, just that the lead lengths has changed.
One thing is that the 8mm have different pins than the 5mm. The 8 mm pins are the same as common anode RGB without the built in controller.

It took me over 6 months to finally source the right LEDs. I was sent misrepresented common anodes twice, and the aliexpress seller in this thread never even shipped them, but it was impossible to know if it was just taking the normal 5 week ePacket from china shipping time, or something else was wrong.

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dooj88
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Post by dooj88 » Fri Feb 10, 2017 5:32 pm

nuts, i emailed Máté about buying a prebuilt module and he doesn't ship outside the EU. he can only send PCB+panel kits.

as this is my first sequencer (in the eurorack i've yet to actually play with, only dream about) is there anyone willing to build one? if not, are there resources here i can contract to do so once i have the parts (or will buy the parts and build it eliminating an extra step)?

right now i've got Microbe Modular's Meta Sequencer potentially rounding out my rack, but i really feel prizma is the right fit for me!

-----

https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/403958

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Post by daynehacks » Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:41 pm

dooj88
I'm waiting for some parts to come on the slow boat from china, and then I will make a mouser order for the rest of the parts for mine. I could build two at once if you want.

Not sure when though, still waiting on the LED's and a few other parts on that extra slow boat.

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Post by dooj88 » Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:40 am

daynehacks, that's awesome, thanks! I'm totally in. What was the timeline you had in mind? A month, month and a half to completion once everything finally gets to you? No rush of course, just a rough estimate to keep in mind.

I know those orders from China can take 3 weeks or more.. Glacial.. :deadbanana:

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Post by daynehacks » Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:24 pm

dooj88
sent you a pm.

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