[IC] PRIZMA - 2 channel, 16 step sequencer with rainbow

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ZenitSar
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Post by ZenitSar » Sat Feb 11, 2017 7:35 pm

I finally got the missing parts I needed and it worked on first try. Soldering the leds is a pain, but I got a rhythm going towards the middle, when I started bending the legs to make more room for the iron. It worked first try, but I had a bridge on two leds that had to be troubleshooted before it was perfect. Great little device! Easy to use.

ZenitSar - Solo modular
CV - SciFi Rock

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Switchzik
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Post by Switchzik » Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:34 am

Hi,
After all my problems, it was finally because of the DAC not working. I just replaced it and could do the calibration easily.
Love it, especially the probability mode :yay:

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auxren
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Post by auxren » Mon Feb 13, 2017 12:43 am

Weirdest thing just happened. I rearranged my case and afterwards, the encoders are reversed.

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Cryaaa
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Post by Cryaaa » Fri Feb 17, 2017 11:06 am

Helllo, so first of all: Successful build! Was slightly worried about the smd soldering but it wasn't too bad and had quite some fun finishing the module.
BUT I have no clue how to install the new firmware through the connector and was wondering if anybody had some useful tutorials or links on what i need and how to do it that would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!

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stochasticfats
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Post by stochasticfats » Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:02 pm

Cryaaa wrote:Helllo, so first of all: Successful build! Was slightly worried about the smd soldering but it wasn't too bad and had quite some fun finishing the module.
BUT I have no clue how to install the new firmware through the connector and was wondering if anybody had some useful tutorials or links on what i need and how to do it that would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
I used a cheap USBasp programmer from ebay, along with a 10-to-6 pin adapter.

Make sure to disconnect the LED pcb before programming (voltage reg could overheat).

Pin 1 has the square pad.

If you are familiar with command line you can use avrdude to program. I am not so I used avrdudess (a fancy gui for avrdude). Just need to select the correct programmer and MCU.

You may need to jumper JP3 to force slow clock on the USBasp.

Set the fuses first, then flash the hex.

Not that difficult when you get your head around avrdudess. If I can do it then anyone can :hihi:

Kirr
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Post by Kirr » Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:07 pm

Is it still available? I'd like two DIY sets if possible (PCBs+IC+panel). (Sent email to the address in first post as well). Thanks!

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appliancide
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Post by appliancide » Sun Apr 09, 2017 3:53 pm

stochasticfats wrote:
Cryaaa wrote:Helllo, so first of all: Successful build! Was slightly worried about the smd soldering but it wasn't too bad and had quite some fun finishing the module.
BUT I have no clue how to install the new firmware through the connector and was wondering if anybody had some useful tutorials or links on what i need and how to do it that would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
I used a cheap USBasp programmer from ebay, along with a 10-to-6 pin adapter.

Make sure to disconnect the LED pcb before programming (voltage reg could overheat).

Pin 1 has the square pad.

If you are familiar with command line you can use avrdude to program. I am not so I used avrdudess (a fancy gui for avrdude). Just need to select the correct programmer and MCU.

You may need to jumper JP3 to force slow clock on the USBasp.

Set the fuses first, then flash the hex.

Not that difficult when you get your head around avrdudess. If I can do it then anyone can :hihi:
I tried this exact method, and ended up with a blue flashlight :bang:

No idea what went wrong, so I'm just going to try to order a new chip.

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:34 am

Stupid question, but does the module need to be receiving power form the Euro bus in order to flash the MCU with the new firmware?

a|x

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pisrecords
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Post by pisrecords » Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:51 pm

toneburst wrote:Stupid question, but does the module need to be receiving power form the Euro bus in order to flash the MCU with the new firmware?

a|x
same question here .
thax

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synthetek
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Post by synthetek » Wed Apr 12, 2017 8:39 pm

toneburst wrote:Stupid question, but does the module need to be receiving power form the Euro bus in order to flash the MCU with the new firmware?

a|x
Just updated mine with a USBasp and did not power the module with the euro bus, just the 3.3v supplied by the programmer. Also remember to remove the front board with the LEDs while flashing it.

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appliancide
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Post by appliancide » Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:39 pm

Am I the only one that has had problems updating this? avrdudess can see the chip, and it seems like the whole process works, but I end up with a non-functional module afterwords.

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Thu Apr 13, 2017 2:54 am

I see.

Another probably stupid question:

There seem to be several kinds of programmer out there. I have a USBTinyISP (ISP programmer, presumably, not ASP), would this work?

I've used this programmer with a CVPal, and it worked, and both this and the Prizma have a 6-pin programming header, but of course that doesn't mean that the header connects to the same pins of the MCU.

a|x

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Thu Apr 13, 2017 2:59 am

Also, would fuse settings be the same with ASP and ISP programmers?

a|x

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daynehacks
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Post by daynehacks » Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:41 pm

Fuse settings are specified in the data sheet, they are chip specific and not programmer specific.

If you are using AVRDUDE then the USBtinyISP will work great. I used it to update mine, and had no problems. I didnt re-burn the fuses even, I was curious how it would and it seems to be fine.

If you have a solderless breadboard then you could remove the chip from the prizma and wire up your ISP programmer and flash it that way, thats what I did (well I've made a separate board HERE for burning AVR's).

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appliancide
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Post by appliancide » Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:29 am

Is anyone willing to sell a programmed chip?

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Fri Apr 14, 2017 3:41 pm

I have a USBTinyASP v.2 programmer, which appears to work, but I wonder if someone could help me out with the AVRDude commands for updating the firmware?

a|x

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Fri Apr 14, 2017 3:57 pm

I got impatient, and tried, adapted from commands found in the Mutable Instruments CVPal documentation:
avrdude -V -p m328p -c usbtiny -B 10 -e -u \
-U efuse:w:0x05:m \
-U hfuse:w:0xde:m \
-U lfuse:w:0xff:m \
-U lock:w:0x2f:m
Followed by:
avrdude -V -p m328p -c usbtiny -B 1 -U flash:w:prizma_v2.hex:i -U lock:w:0x2f:m
Which seems to have worked, much to my relief!

a|x

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daynehacks
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Post by daynehacks » Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:38 pm

Not sure if you want to set the lock fuse. I think you need a high voltage programmer to reprogram after that? Not sure what else that lock fuse you have written there is though..

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Sat Apr 15, 2017 1:41 am

Hi @daynehacks oh, that sounds worrying. I was able to flash the MCU after setting the lock fuse with the first line, though.

I was able to re-flash the CVPal chip several times, with that same fuse setting, but that was a different chip (ATtiny84, I think).

If the worst comes to the worst, and the Prizma MCU is now permanently locked, I can just buy another ATmega 328P, so I'm not too worried. Might be good to find out if that is the case, though, for future reference.

a|x

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appliancide
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Post by appliancide » Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:39 pm

When using the usbasp, or at least the one I have, with avrdudess, the module had to be powered up to be programmed.

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:55 pm

@appliancide I was able to flash the MCU in-place with my USBtinyISP v2 clone, without external power. Other user's mileage may vary though.

I guess some programmers aren't able to provide power to the chip, or have jumper(s) that need to be set in order to do so.

It could also be that some only provide 3.3V, which may not to enough to power the ATmega328P.

a|x

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appliancide
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Post by appliancide » Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:00 pm

The usbasp has a jumper for 3.3/5v, which was set to 5V. I'm really not sure what the issue was. Maybe the programmer's onboard 5v is not up to the task, or this particular unit has a dodgy regulator? Something to watch for if anyone ever runs into the same issue.

I used this one:


It says that it's for a quadcopter, but that's just how the seller is packaging and marketing it. They can be found cheaper on ebay, but I had some points from my prime account, so it was a good deal for me.

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pisrecords
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Post by pisrecords » Wed Apr 19, 2017 4:53 pm

I could load the new firmware,
I use an arduino and download this software:


http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-xloader


:guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness:

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itsritual
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Post by itsritual » Mon Apr 24, 2017 3:58 pm

Is there still no Mouser/DigiKey/Amazon alternatives for the LEDs?

toneburst
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Post by toneburst » Mon Apr 24, 2017 5:53 pm

They seem to be fairly easily available on eBay.

a|x

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