Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

[Watson1983]

Lets see if someone could clarify me anything.
I've got a little soldering bridge between the legs on pins 1 and 2 of the smd ic, due to this f....ng lockdown and don't have access to my good quality soldering wire, and do not mention my poor smd soldering skills.
As I see on the board this pins are later connected together, should I leave it like this and don't take overheating risks or may it be pivotal to fix it?

Thanks

[Bjarne]

I don’t see why you should struggle with the solder bridge if the two pins are connected anyway.
Cheers

[wtk]

hi, i found here spare dirty 3mm lasercut acrylic panel if anybody needs

[Poldenstein]

Interested!! (Sent you a PM)

[Watson1983]

Miracles does exist!! After some stupid questions, some beginner mistakes and a lot of patience and anxiety, my proto-lyra 8 works!!

It's something to celebrate

[bstalz]

Everything works! No voices triggering all the time. I was worried since I don't have any Kapton film. But I coated the hell out of the underside with a matte coating, and it seems to have done the trick. I also used shrink tubing around each knurled screw. alongside some plastic washers.

Now I gotta figure out a case to go along with the panel. Should have updates this coming week.

I've been working with front panels and thinking about some layout stuff since I'm probably sticking with the 12x12 enclosure.
I think my panel design is derivative of yours mostly.
With the IN/OUT board connection being via ribbons and wires and the four screw holes through the front panel for mounting the controls board, is there any reason I shouldn't consider sliding the controls down to be closer to the front lip?
You have the name, etc. near the bottom and I'm looking at that area and thinking I could move things closer. The SOMA layout has little space from front lip to the touch screws and I'm thinking I kinda like that.

Normal.JPG

LipBiased.JPG

[Flounderguts]

I like your take on the panel.

I've been working on a PCB expansion panel, and I decided to break out the I/O for another spot on my rack...

The extra holes in it are for toggles...because this will be near vertical, I can't put a coin on the pads Loopop style. So I'll have toggles wired in on the breakout...they will just connect the two pads for each voice.

breakout lyra.jpg

I don't have great images of the main board...the program I'm using draws the silkscreen last, and obscures the ENIG plated graphics on the sides of the panel.

panel bwc.jpg

Here's the same image, with the silkscreen layer hidden...you can see the gold graphics beneath, which the silkscreen will not adhere to, so they should display properly. The software I'm using doesn't allow me to do negative cutouts, so this is the workaround.

panelbwcnoss.jpg

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with white PCB on this...it looks baller in every color, though!

[Wavy Davy]

Everything works! No voices triggering all the time. I was worried since I don't have any Kapton film. But I coated the hell out of the underside with a matte coating, and it seems to have done the trick. I also used shrink tubing around each knurled screw. alongside some plastic washers.

Now I gotta figure out a case to go along with the panel. Should have updates this coming week.

I've been working with front panels and thinking about some layout stuff since I'm probably sticking with the 12x12 enclosure.
I think my panel design is derivative of yours mostly.
With the IN/OUT board connection being via ribbons and wires and the four screw holes through the front panel for mounting the controls board, is there any reason I shouldn't consider sliding the controls down to be closer to the front lip?
You have the name, etc. near the bottom and I'm looking at that area and thinking I could move things closer. The SOMA layout has little space from front lip to the touch screws and I'm thinking I kinda like that.

Normal.JPGLipBiased.JPG

When sliding the controls down, don't forget to leave room for the ribbon cables, when you install in a case.

I recommend changing the direction of the arrow and number location for the 7,8 > 1,2 to 1,2 < 7,8.
it more accurately indicates the signal flow.
Also you might want to use some of the other suggestions from my previous post on the subject (Monday Apr 6th, page 20).
Have a great day.

[contemptussaeculi]

Hi, I'm going to be building one of these in the future. I'm wondering if any of you considered using illuminated switches? Would it make it more difficult, maybe require more power and custom routing, or are they mostly plug and play?

[Flounderguts]

Hi, I'm going to be building one of these in the future. I'm wondering if any of you considered using illuminated switches? Would it make it more difficult, maybe require more power and custom routing, or are they mostly plug and play?

They're pretty sensitive. LEDs might mess with the sonic characteristics of the Lyra, but then again, messing with stuff is the lifeblood of a wiggler!

I think the only way to really achieve this would be with standalone power to the illumination in the switches. Not terribly difficult, but not trivial, either.

I'm actually stoked because it DOESN'T do the blinkenlight thing in a big way.

You know, this thing would rock with ROTARY switches, too.

[contemptussaeculi]

I hate to finally admit it, but maybe going beyond stock will wait until the second kit. I could plastidip the tips and shine a light at them.

[Brawny]

Hey all once again. Just a quick favour to ask...

Could someone please post a picture of the underside of the main board (particularly around the more central PT2399 section & without the shield)?
I've had some terrible luck with duff parts (a cap and 2 transistors and one of the double pole 6 pin switches - this alongside the slightly incorrect BOM didn't help). I've basically had to butcher my board a bit in a couple of places to get it working again, but just need to confirm a couple of traces are as they should be.

So close to finishing the whole thing now, and after playing it for some time (and loving it) I'm just eager to get it properly finished and boxed up.

Thanks!

*Edit - no need, I managed to work it out in the end

[red-tin-dave]

Anyone in the UK found a supplier for the 510pf ceramic cap? I know they have them at Mouser but £12 delivery on a part that costs about £1 seems a bit daft. I can find SMD but no through hole anywhere.
TIA

[gluepet]

It LIVES!! Happy to report that my Lyra-8 actually works! I have a delay feedback issue in 3.5mm headphone out that I need to work on - but all else *seems* functional. Thanks to all who have contributed to the forum - couldn't have built it without your help!

[eno]

My boards finally arrived (after a couple months waiting I ended up asking SOMA WTF. Im not sure what they did but they suddenly showed up the next day, like they were just sitting on a shelf in a post office somewhere).

I just put in an order with Tayda and Mouser for the parts from the lists that @Flounderguts first posted.

@Flounderguts: Dude, thank you for all your ideas and help in this thread. I did however, find a couple of mistakes in your Tayda parts numbering: A-4505 should be A-4504; and A-1571 should be A-157. Peace and respect to you :-)

[Flounderguts]

@Flounderguts: Dude, thank you for all your ideas and help in this thread. I did however, find a couple of mistakes in your Tayda parts numbering: A-4505 should be A-4504; and A-1571 should be A-157. Peace and respect to you :-)

Thanks for pointing that out! I'll edit the post

[contemptussaeculi]

I guess I have a few months of waiting before the next PCB batch is ready. @eno If you're in the US, how much was shipping?

[Flounderguts]

There was someone here with a set of pcbs for sale because they decided not to build them...

[Watson1983]

Hi wigglers,

I finished the build of the lyra and tested it,without faceplate and then everything seemed to work right.
Now I have put everything together with the faceplate and the voices are triggering all the time. What could be the problem and possible solution?

I'm using a dibond alupanel sheet for the faceplate, it seemed to be non conductive....
I also used plastic spacers below the contact pads.

Thanks in advance

[shiftr]

I've borrowed al factory Lyra-8 from a friend so i got to compare it with mine.
One thing i've always had a problem with mine is a small 50hz hum or a high pitch wine depending on which power supply i use.
Now i've tried my DIY version with the original power supply and that already helps with the wine but it's still there. And not on the original.

This is the power supply that comes with the original:
https://nl.farnell.com/xp-power/ver18us ... dp/2643255

Does anybody know how to solve the high pitch wine? Use extra capacitors? Other filter?

[Flounderguts]

Hi wigglers,

I finished the build of the lyra and tested it,without faceplate and then everything seemed to work right.
Now I have put everything together with the faceplate and the voices are triggering all the time. What could be the problem and possible solution?

I'm using a dibond alupanel sheet for the faceplate, it seemed to be non conductive....
I also used plastic spacers below the contact pads.

Thanks in advance

The panel is probably not conductive from front to back, but for sure each layer will conduct. You need to isolate the shafts of the pads from both the top and bottom layer of aluminum.

Maybe a bit of heat shrink? Or electrical tape?

I'm using plastic tubes on mine, just in case.

[Watson1983]

Hi wigglers,

I finished the build of the lyra and tested it,without faceplate and then everything seemed to work right.
Now I have put everything together with the faceplate and the voices are triggering all the time. What could be the problem and possible solution?

I'm using a dibond alupanel sheet for the faceplate, it seemed to be non conductive....
I also used plastic spacers below the contact pads.

Thanks in advance

The panel is probably not conductive from front to back, but for sure each layer will conduct. You need to isolate the shafts of the pads from both the top and bottom layer of aluminum.

Maybe a bit of heat shrink? Or electrical tape?

I'm using plastic tubes on mine, just in case.

I'll give it a try and tell you.
Thank you so much for your suggestion

[Watson1983]

After some troubleshooting, and following your pieces advice, now everything is working as it should.
But I'd like to warn all the new builders (just in case there were someone as stupid as me) is when testing the unit, put the levels of drive, feedback, total fb and delay close to minimum, thing I haven't done, and everything will sound sweeter to your ears.


Now everything is better isolated, and tested properly.

[cjnuk3]

Bitsbox! I've always had great service from them and they have a fixed postage charge of £1.90 no matter what you order. Might not be ideal on a 6p capacitor but if you're buying other stuff it's worthwhile. I have no connection with them, just a satisfied customer.

Anyone in the UK found a supplier for the 510pf ceramic cap? I know they have them at Mouser but £12 delivery on a part that costs about £1 seems a bit daft. I can find SMD but no through hole anywhere.
TIA

[gluepet]

In looking for more cost effective alternatives to a nice FPE panel, I am curious to know how to use the .BRD file that user Oscillosaurus posted early in thread. Is this intended to be printed/cut by an online PCB provider from PCB material? I have not been able to find much about utilizing this file format, other than ways to convert it to gerber and pdf files. Any thoughts appreciated - Thanks!