Awesome. Thanks so much!
What is "mkH"? Is that Russian for millihenry or microhenry? or megahertz?
Awesome. Thanks so much!
The bevel is always on the pin 1 side...modifikator wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:32 amhttps://cloud.mail.ru/public/FRZa/kUBkLsrVi
There is a chip on the left from the Lira-8 DIY Kit and the chip on the right one bought by me in the store. There is no dot on the chip on the left, dot here on the chip on the right! Perhaps this will help someone when installing the chip on the board in the correct way
If I understand everything correctly
Also, all the voltages check out on the board.mutronic wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 2:03 amI just finished putting together my Lyra 8 board and the only issue I've encountered is the voice 2 pad is non responsive when pressed. Voice 2 is on hold by default and when I do press the pad it sounds like an aux cord being unplugged. It is a cap I had to pull up because I mistakenly soldered in the wrong capacitors as I was building it with the expansions, so the ground on the voice 2 capacitor was pulled from the bottom end of the board. But the range potentiometer for voice 2 works fine, and pretty much everything about it is functional, including the attack/release section and vibrato on the expansions. Has anyone had any similar experiences with pads malfunctioning and found any solutions?
Thank you! I will look into this.Flounderguts wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 3:30 pmMalfunctioning pads: check 3 things...the board to board connections at "pad 2," the switch connections at the "fast" switch, and the ground connections at the lower pad.
If the switch is always on, check that the upper pad or pad 2 traces aren't grounding somwhere. Easy to check with a continuity test from top to bottom pad.
There should be 2 small bits of pcb material with your kit, so main board, control board, IO board, and 2 identical blank rectangular boards (and 2 nxp 4093's)autodafe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 15, 2021 6:26 amI am a bit puzzled by the build guide, regarding the "Shields"
Install the shields on the bottom side of the main PCB after soldering of all other parts. Places for installation - see PCBs/Place for shields.jpg
Use UP holes for upper PCB part and DWN holes for lower one.
what do they mean by "UP for upper PCB and DWN for lower one" ????
1st, check your board to board connections at TRNS2.autodafe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 16, 2021 1:41 pmI have finished building mine.
I have an issue on the PITCH knob for voices 5-6-7-8 (first four voices are OK)
If I turn the PITCH knob up at about '9 o clock it starts "holding" voices 5-6-7-8, and they all play together (the HOLD knob is at zero). Opening the PITCH knob more changes the pitch of the four voices as expected, but also raises their volume a bit.
Any idea on what to check? PICTH for voices 1-2-3-4 works perfectly, no "bleeding" of the voices when PITCH is moved...
The fast switch allows the 12V rail power through the release section. Check joins on all 39K resistors, I think. I don't have a board in front of me right now (I'm at work), but I think that's where you would look. I'll have to take a look at stuff when I get home.mutronic wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:30 pmAfter resoldering some of the connections on voice 1, I got it working at an equal volume of all the other voices, but there are still two things that affect the voice unlike voice 2. When I turn the sharp knob all the way up, it mutes the voice, and the "fast" switch does not affect the voice at all.
Thanks for taking the time to replyFlounderguts wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 1:37 pm1st, check your board to board connections at TRNS2.
2nd, check the soldering on the #2 NXP 4093, and make sure it's not backwards or has any bridged connections.
3rd, near that NXP chip there is a 547 transistor, check the connections and the orientation of that transistor.
4th, as the voices are sounding together, with the hold pot off, check for a grounding issue last...an upside down chip would do that, but there may be a different issue. Check for continuity to gnd from the pch connections and also the TRNS2.
Just checked the 12v rail and it reads out 11.5v or so, but so does all the other 39ks that line up next to the attack/release area of the voices. I reflowed the top of the 39k resistor on voice 1 for the heck of it, but it didn't seem to affect the fast switch for voice 1. Also something I noticed when I measure the voltage in the designated areas, I get 5.76v for all the areas that are supposed to be 5.87v, but the 6v and 2.5v are fine. Not sure if that's far enough off to actually make a difference.Flounderguts wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 5:41 pmThe fast switch allows the 12V rail power through the release section. Check joins on all 39K resistors, I think. I don't have a board in front of me right now (I'm at work), but I think that's where you would look. I'll have to take a look at stuff when I get home.mutronic wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:30 pmAfter resoldering some of the connections on voice 1, I got it working at an equal volume of all the other voices, but there are still two things that affect the voice unlike voice 2. When I turn the sharp knob all the way up, it mutes the voice, and the "fast" switch does not affect the voice at all.