uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.
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uO_c PCB and screen compatibility
Hi! I don't see any the 7 holes for the pins on this screen... is it an error or just the merchants display of the product?Altitude909 wrote:There is a link to the correct display on the BOM, Display spread sheet. I'm still working on that btw..
http://www.buydisplay.com/default/seria ... e-on-black
I was also planning to buy a couple of uO_C PCBs from Magpie and was wondering whether will this screen or anotherone fit and be compatible or not?
(As far as I understood there are different versions of the PCB for different screens..?)
And yes, I couldn't find any link to any specific display in the BOM I found..
Would you recomand any specific PCB supplier and compatible BOM?
Thanx
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Re: uO_c PCB and screen compatibility
You need the carrier board, that's just the screen part of the display. The BOM for the display is on the official BOM on a different tab at the bottomhenrry wrote:
Hi! I don't see any the 7 holes for the pins on this screen... is it an error or just the merchants display of the product?
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/3olQy5tV
The one linked above is the one the board was designed for. Since the construction of this device DEPENDS on the standoffs for the screen, it was decided to design it for one display only. There is an ebay one that will fit with a slightly different hole pattern but there are also several others with the right pinout that will NOT match. We already did the stupid hide and go seek thing with the displays for the original O_C and it was a mess, that's why you see those with screens that are way off on the panel cutout. By releasing files for an "official" display, that puts an end to it.henrry wrote: I was also planning to buy a couple of uO_C PCBs from Magpie and was wondering whether will this screen or anotherone fit and be compatible or not?
(As far as I understood there are different versions of the PCB for different screens..?)
And yes, I couldn't find any link to any specific display in the BOM I found..
Would you recomand any specific PCB supplier and compatible BOM?
Thanx
There are no different versions of the PCBs from Neutron sound as far as the display goes. The newer rev boards have features that deal with the power drop outs some people have on crappy power supplies but those are not in the wild AFAIK
Last edited by Altitude909 on Sun Apr 08, 2018 8:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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we're in the midst of evaluating the files for the display in hopes that we can make and stock them here...
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Hello. Does this screen also work on the micro O_C?fma wrote:
This is the one I used for my OG O&C. Its size and pinout (on the amazon description) match the requirements set here:
http://ornament-and-cri.me/bom_2d/
Many manufacturers on Amazon don't send their products to my country for some reason, but this one does

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That's a verified good one. One way to spot them is look at the back, the good ones will look exactly like that. Also keep in mind that sellers dont necessarily send you what's in the pics so it's always a roll of the dice. It's happened multiple times that the pic is good, what you get is differenthenrry wrote:Hello. Does this screen also work on the micro O_C?fma wrote:
This is the one I used for my OG O&C. Its size and pinout (on the amazon description) match the requirements set here:
http://ornament-and-cri.me/bom_2d/
Many manufacturers on Amazon don't send their products to my country for some reason, but this one does
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So I was having the exact same symptom with my left encoder. It would only turn to the right and if I turned it to the left it would still scroll the cursor to the right. What I found was a vey tiny bit of continuity (multimeter would not beep, but showed a fairly low number instead) from the bottom center pin (ground) and the bottom left pin. For me, I think reflowing C29 is what did the trick. You may want to check the equivalent for the other encoder. I think it's C33 maybe? Hope that helps.windspirit wrote: UPDATE: new teensy did not fix the problem. Im starting to suspect a board error. I guess I can try wiring the encoder legs directly to the teensy.
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1.1 has U12 (under the teensy socket, upper left hand corner)n0rd wrote:What is the difference between v1.0 and v1.1 uO&C PCBs? (and how can I tell which version a PCB is? There doesn't seem to be a version number anywhere).
the 1.1 boards have the ruggedized power so the devices dont freeze on crappy PSUs. They need 3 extra parts: MIC803 votlage supervisor, 100K resistor, and a pogo pin on the front to connect to the reset pad of the teensy which is just a pad on the back of the teensy
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O_C 1.1 BOMn0rd wrote:Where are the v1.1 O&C and v1.2 uTemps BOMs?
uTU 1.2 BOM
The uTU hasnt been updated in ages so I just filled in the relevent bits, only 3 parts are added with 1.2 (pogo pin, MIC803, 100k resistor)
For the pogo pin to work right, you MUST use machine headers like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Row-40P ... Sw37tWAUnp
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n0rd wrote:Have you got some pics of this pogo pin - machine header arrangement? I don't see how those machine pin headers will work with a pogo pin.

No, all 0805. I'll clean up that BOM today, I havent touched it since last fallThe uTemps BOM has a mix of 0805 and 0603 resistors and caps. Is this correct?
I am. Michigansynthworks.com
Also, who is selling v1.1 O&C and v1.2 uTemps PCBs?
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This should work: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ha ... 0sUjWws%3delodin wrote:Will this header from mouser work (instead of the one from ebay)?
Mouser #: 575-010064 (Obviously more expensive, but it would be significantly faster to ship).
That has a minimum 2.9mm height, the Millmax parts are 3.17mm
They stock the 14pin version of that header which will save you a buck but the 64 pin is probably a better idea anyway. I wont merge those parts until someone confirms its works
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