uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

From circuitbending to homebrew stompboxes & synths, keep the DIY spirit alive!

Moderators: lisa, luketeaford, Kent, Joe.

Post Reply
sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Wed May 22, 2019 9:32 am

After waiting the requisite 30 business days for my OLED to arrive from Hong Kong, I've just been informed that the package was lost in the mail.

Any suggestions for getting an OLED a little closer to home (North America, if possible)? I'm getting tired of eBay sellers who offer cheap shipping but take literally months if ever to arrive.

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Wed May 22, 2019 10:00 am

sleepmute wrote:After waiting the requisite 30 business days for my OLED to arrive from Hong Kong, I've just been informed that the package was lost in the mail.

Any suggestions for getting an OLED a little closer to home (North America, if possible)? I'm getting tired of eBay sellers who offer cheap shipping but take literally months if ever to arrive.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Wed May 22, 2019 11:21 am

Awesome, thanks. Costs a bit more (well, twice as much with shipping to Canada), but not having the package floating in the ether between here and Hong Kong is worth the cost.

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Wed May 22, 2019 1:23 pm

sleepmute wrote:Awesome, thanks. Costs a bit more (well, twice as much with shipping to Canada), but not having the package floating in the ether between here and Hong Kong is worth the cost.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Wed May 22, 2019 2:11 pm

Thanks, but I'm happy to pay a bit more to get it fulfilled by Amazon.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Sat Jun 08, 2019 1:48 pm

I just powered mine up and burned R60, same as a previous poster. I’m not an expert at all — I can mostly just follow directions — so could anyone explain to me how I’d go about checking for bridges? Before I powered it up I did a quick reflow and then cleaned off the flux with flux cleaner, but it obviously didn’t work. The OLED pins are not touching the panel.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Sat Jun 08, 2019 3:41 pm

Never mind! I reflowed the DAC and some of the surrounding ICs and now
it seems to boot fine. I’m sure I’ll be back later on asking for advice when something else doesn’t work ;)

Edit — and yeah, it already doesn’t work. No voltage at any of the outputs. Back to the drawing board.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Sat Jun 08, 2019 4:20 pm

Okay, so it seemed like the ADP150 was only outputting 0.3v instead of the required 3.3. So I'm going to order a new one (stupidly I only bought one). While I was checking for it, I accidentally touched the probe across the 5v input on the ADP150 and C4. I saw a little smoke, but I couldn't tell where it was coming from. Should I just replace C3, C4, C9, and C6 as well?

Finally, is there any way to tell without the ADP150 if the DAC is damaged? If I'm going to have to order a new one of those, I'd rather do it all at once.

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:11 am

If the regulator reads low, its likely that the rail is shorted somewhere, not a bad part. Remember the golden rule for DIY SMD:

Chance of bad part: 0.00001%

Chance of bad soldering: 99.9999%

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Sun Jun 09, 2019 12:39 pm

I reflowed everything again with flux, scrubbed it clean and rinsed the cleaner off. Still no luck. Everywhere that’s supposed to read 3.2v (analog) reads 0.03v. I did some continuity tests, but I couldn’t find any connections to places it shouldn’t be.

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Sun Jun 09, 2019 1:16 pm

what does the power into the adp150 read

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Sun Jun 09, 2019 3:11 pm

It’s 4.99v at pins 1 and 3.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Mon Jun 10, 2019 1:05 pm

I suppose I should post a picture.

Image

As I mentioned earlier, I accidentally shorted pin 3 of the ADP150 and the upper end of C4, and something in the vicinity smoked. As I understand it, that would be feeding the 5v input back to the output, so I'm assuming it was the ADP150 that went (especially since it doesn't output the correct voltage). Right now it's still putting out 0.027v.

Could this have damaged the DAC? I don't know how to check for that.

The 3v3a rail is not shorted to ground, +12 or -12. When I check for readings at C34 and C35 as well as at pin 5 (edit -- I meant pin 8) of the MPC6002s I get the same 0.027v. I also get it at pin 4 of the DAC.

If that rail is shorted, I can't locate it. I'm going to order another ADP150 just to be safe, but I'm wondering if I should order another DAC as well. It would be nice not to have to, but I'd rather only make one order.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Fri Jun 14, 2019 4:11 pm

I am a bad DIYer. I installed the new ADP150 and was getting 0.8 volts. So I thought, "Enough of this." I removed the DAC, breaking off a couple pins in the process. Fortunately I ordered a spare. Still read 0.8 volts, so I knew it wasn't the DAC. I reflowed the ADP150, installed the new DAC, and now it works fine. Why I didn't reflow before trying to remove the DAC is as much a mystery to me as it is to you. Oh well. Live and learn!

AlterX
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2019 5:00 pm
Location: North East UK

Post by AlterX » Sun Jun 23, 2019 5:13 pm

Thanks. I have that issue where the Teensy 3.2 powers up initially, but on power cycle it fails to boot. If left for a while ie: overnight, it will boot, sometimes and operated as normal.

User avatar
emmaker
Veteran Wiggler
Posts: 621
Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 5:07 pm
Location: PDX

Post by emmaker » Mon Jun 24, 2019 5:12 pm

sleepmute wrote: As I mentioned earlier, I accidentally shorted pin 3 of the ADP150 and the upper end of C4, and something in the vicinity smoked. As I understand it, that would be feeding the 5v input back to the output, so I'm assuming it was the ADP150 that went (especially since it doesn't output the correct voltage). Right now it's still putting out 0.027v.

Could this have damaged the DAC? I don't know how to check for that.

The 3v3a rail is not shorted to ground, +12 or -12. When I check for readings at C34 and C35 as well as at pin 5 (edit -- I meant pin 8) of the MPC6002s I get the same 0.027v. I also get it at pin 4 of the DAC.

If that rail is shorted, I can't locate it. I'm going to order another ADP150 just to be safe, but I'm wondering if I should order another DAC as well. It would be nice not to have to, but I'd rather only make one order.
You might check the jack solder joint next to C27 looks like there maybe a cold solder joint there. Also check the bottom ends of R25 and R29. Can't tell if they are soldered or not.

Another thing, try to get your components aligned properly on the pads. With a board that has filled areas if they are close to the component pad and the solder mask is scratched, thin or poorly done the solder can bridge between the pad and fill.

sleepmute
Common Wiggler
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:36 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB

Post by sleepmute » Mon Jun 24, 2019 7:56 pm

I did try, and that was the result :ripbanana: It was only my second SMD project, so I'm sure I'll get better. After I took the photo I did realign a couple of the worst offenders.

Anyway, it was the ADP150. I put the new one in, and it works perfectly now.

openstruct
1-Post Wiggler
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2019 3:11 pm

Re: ah bugger..

Post by openstruct » Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:52 am

Staticcharge wrote: This:
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/P ... 5358d4a607
Should be a complete component BOM for the uO_c build.
It looks like this Mouser cart is missing all the capacitors. Is that intentional? I'm happy to update with a refreshed one if not.

User avatar
frequenzteiler
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:46 am
Location: Berlin

Post by frequenzteiler » Sat Sep 07, 2019 12:16 pm

could somebody be so kind and again explain how this pogo is working ?

with the stiff side its soldered to the pcb and the spring side is just touching the teensy´s rst continuously ?
if so we could also install a piece of wire soldered to the rst and the adjacent via on the pcb ?

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Sun Sep 08, 2019 9:55 pm

frequenzteiler wrote:could somebody be so kind and again explain how this pogo is working ?

with the stiff side its soldered to the pcb and the spring side is just touching the teensy´s rst continuously ?
if so we could also install a piece of wire soldered to the rst and the adjacent via on the pcb ?
Yes, and not sure what you mean. If you mean solder a wire to the reset pad in lieu of the pogo pin and solder that to the pad for the pogo, yes but be REALLY careful, its super easy to lift that pad

User avatar
frequenzteiler
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:46 am
Location: Berlin

Post by frequenzteiler » Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:25 am

thank you ! . thats what i meant .
i installed the pogo properly now. module works like a charm .
tho, since the supervisor is waiting for all voltages to settle , the overall start up time of the module is bit longer but i guess that is just how things are .

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:56 am

frequenzteiler wrote:thank you ! . thats what i meant .
i installed the pogo properly now. module works like a charm .
tho, since the supervisor is waiting for all voltages to settle , the overall start up time of the module is bit longer but i guess that is just how things are .
yes, it is slower but that's how you know its working

User avatar
frequenzteiler
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:46 am
Location: Berlin

Post by frequenzteiler » Mon Sep 23, 2019 5:48 pm

on my second build i accidently broke off the pin because i wanted to bend it slightly to the side as i thought it was not touching the RST pad :bang:

User avatar
col
Wiggling with Experience
Posts: 459
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:47 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by col » Thu Sep 26, 2019 5:39 am

I just finished a pair of uO_C but one of them is doing something strange on calibration. When I try to calibrate the CV inputs the ADC CV2 / ADC value won't go to 0v it's hard to read but jumps around in the range -199 to +159 any ideas to which components it might be or what to test?

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3392
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Post by Altitude909 » Thu Sep 26, 2019 5:59 am

col wrote:I just finished a pair of uO_C but one of them is doing something strange on calibration. When I try to calibrate the CV inputs the ADC CV2 / ADC value won't go to 0v it's hard to read but jumps around in the range -199 to +159 any ideas to which components it might be or what to test?
Bad solder joint around U5/10

Post Reply

Return to “Music Tech DIY”