uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

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col
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Post by col » Thu Sep 26, 2019 7:04 am

Altitude909 wrote:
col wrote:I just finished a pair of uO_C but one of them is doing something strange on calibration. When I try to calibrate the CV inputs the ADC CV2 / ADC value won't go to 0v it's hard to read but jumps around in the range -199 to +159 any ideas to which components it might be or what to test?
Bad solder joint around U5/10
thanks for that, I just re-flowed the joints around U5/U10 it didn't make any difference though. I'll try swapping out the opamps.

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Post by Altitude909 » Thu Sep 26, 2019 8:06 am

col wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
col wrote:I just finished a pair of uO_C but one of them is doing something strange on calibration. When I try to calibrate the CV inputs the ADC CV2 / ADC value won't go to 0v it's hard to read but jumps around in the range -199 to +159 any ideas to which components it might be or what to test?
Bad solder joint around U5/10
thanks for that, I just re-flowed the joints around U5/U10 it didn't make any difference though. I'll try swapping out the opamps.
All the other parts around those opamps too. That's the input stage

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frequenzteiler
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Post by frequenzteiler » Thu Sep 26, 2019 6:02 pm

Altitude909 wrote:
frequenzteiler wrote: Yes, and not sure what you mean. If you mean solder a wire to the reset pad in lieu of the pogo pin and solder that to the pad for the pogo, yes but be REALLY careful, its super easy to lift that pad
thank you
after i broke the pin
soldering a small piece of wire to the RST pad and the Pogo did the job :yay: ,
just leave sufficient length of wire so its easy to lift the teensy in case you want / need to replace it

just in case somebody else is braking their Pogo...

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col
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Post by col » Thu Sep 26, 2019 6:20 pm

Altitude909 wrote:
col wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
col wrote:I just finished a pair of uO_C but one of them is doing something strange on calibration. When I try to calibrate the CV inputs the ADC CV2 / ADC value won't go to 0v it's hard to read but jumps around in the range -199 to +159 any ideas to which components it might be or what to test?
Bad solder joint around U5/10
thanks for that, I just re-flowed the joints around U5/U10 it didn't make any difference though. I'll try swapping out the opamps.
All the other parts around those opamps too. That's the input stage
found it! It was the 100R resistor heading up to the Teensy :banana:

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Post by belzrebuth » Fri Nov 01, 2019 9:23 am

Is the teensy LC compatible with the ornament and crime?

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Post by pld » Fri Nov 01, 2019 9:43 am

belzrebuth wrote:Is the teensy LC compatible with the ornament and crime?
No. IIRC the pinout might be, but it's a smaller processor and would need rewritten firmware.

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Post by jrhillma » Fri Dec 06, 2019 3:03 pm

Just received my uO_C kit from SynthCube. The component for IC6 is LD1117S50TR instead of LD1117S50CTR. It has the middle leg (Pin 2, Vo), though that doesn't appear to be needed from the schematic. It seems to me I should be able to just clip that leg off. Any issues with that? Alternative would be to leave it, and solder to the 'heat sink' mask, I suppose, though that seems like not a good idea.

Edit: Although now that I'm looking at it, the tab is connected to Vo, and the pad for the tab is part of the 'heat sink' mask, so there shouldn't be any danger in soldering Pin 2 to the heat sink mask, right?

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Re:

Post by jrhillma » Thu Dec 26, 2019 3:43 pm

pld wrote:
Fri Nov 01, 2019 9:43 am
belzrebuth wrote:Is the teensy LC compatible with the ornament and crime?
No. IIRC the pinout might be, but it's a smaller processor and would need rewritten firmware.
Any idea if Teensy 4.0 is compatible? I see OSHPark is selling them inexpensively. I've searched 4.0 backward compatability, but can't seem to find anything helpful/definitive.

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Re: Re:

Post by KittenVillage » Thu Dec 26, 2019 6:30 pm

jrhillma wrote:
Thu Dec 26, 2019 3:43 pm
pld wrote:
Fri Nov 01, 2019 9:43 am
belzrebuth wrote:Is the teensy LC compatible with the ornament and crime?
No. IIRC the pinout might be, but it's a smaller processor and would need rewritten firmware.
Any idea if Teensy 4.0 is compatible? I see OSHPark is selling them inexpensively. I've searched 4.0 backward compatability, but can't seem to find anything helpful/definitive.
I think I saw a FB post months ago about it. There's a lot that would need to be done.


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Re: Re:

Post by jrhillma » Thu Dec 26, 2019 7:59 pm

KittenVillage wrote:
Thu Dec 26, 2019 6:30 pm
I think I saw a FB post months ago about it. There's a lot that would need to be done.
Appreciate the link; I don't do FB, though, so can't see any of the posts. Will stick with the 3.2 board. Thanks!

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Re: Re:

Post by pld » Fri Dec 27, 2019 2:01 am

jrhillma wrote:
Thu Dec 26, 2019 7:59 pm
Appreciate the link; I don't do FB, though, so can't see any of the posts. Will stick with the 3.2 board. Thanks!
I'd assume the discussions e.g. here and here will be similar to what's on FB (which I don't use either).

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Re: Re:

Post by jrhillma » Fri Dec 27, 2019 8:51 am

pld wrote:
Fri Dec 27, 2019 2:01 am
I'd assume the discussions e.g. here and here will be similar to what's on FB (which I don't use either).
Thanks for that; didn't even think of searching here, just hit duckduckgo and lost several hours to not-entirely-fruitless reading. The discussion in the first link is pretty clear that it won't work in the uO_C.

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by suckerformimi » Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:15 pm

Can somebody recommend an OC builder in Europe? I have searched all over and have not found any recommendations.

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by Altitude909 » Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:41 pm

suckerformimi wrote:
Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:15 pm
Can somebody recommend an OC builder in Europe? I have searched all over and have not found any recommendations.
https://www.schneidersladen.de/en/michi ... -uo-c.html

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by suckerformimi » Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:20 pm

Altitude909 wrote:
Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:41 pm
suckerformimi wrote:
Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:15 pm
Can somebody recommend an OC builder in Europe? I have searched all over and have not found any recommendations.
https://www.schneidersladen.de/en/michi ... -uo-c.html
My favorite shop. Thank you!

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by suckerformimi » Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:21 pm

suckerformimi wrote:
Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:20 pm
My favorite shop. Thank you!
Not in stock!

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cnicht
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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by cnicht » Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:28 pm

I have one I can sell you.

PM me.

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by Bite » Sun Jan 05, 2020 3:44 pm

suckerformimi wrote:
Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:15 pm
Can somebody recommend an OC builder in Europe? I have searched all over and have not found any recommendations.
There are some pre-built ones available if that's what you're after.
I'm having a US built from TallDog (https://www.tall-dog.com/uo_C_SE.html) you can find that one at midiamsterdam.nl or modularsynthesizers.nl.
The TallDog unit is quite nice looking and well built, a bit small knobs though.

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by suckerformimi » Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:32 pm

They look great, thank you

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by KittenVillage » Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:53 pm

Hey all, this came up on facebook recently, so I wanted to show my method for putting the screen on a uO_C. I've built 3 and a uTU so far, but I'm really just a beginning builder. So these are my suggestions, but since there were no clear pictures of the process I took some last night. I am overthinking and overbuilding it, yes. But the last two came together really well this way. It could be that my first two had PCB or thinner aluminium panels, so everything flexed and bent. But lessons learned, I wanted to share.

First, you need to prepare the screen. I use two 6mm spacers on the underside of the screen. I'm using 6mm plastic screws here with heads that don't quite clear the glass of the screen. (Also I'm using M2.5, but you could use M3 for all this.) I put one here because it keeps the bottom of the screen from ever flexing inward. But generally this bottom display spacer won't be quite touching the PCB.
20200110_011006.jpg
Then I'm putting two plastic washers between the panel and the screen at the top. This is just enough for the glass at the top of the screen to not scrape underneath the panel. Hard to get a good picture of this. the two washers are just barely taller than the glass on the screen.
20200110_011350.jpg
I have a 10mm screw going through the washers, screen and spacer. If you wanted to put a screw in underneath the PCB into the spacer you need to use a shorter screw. I don't because everything will end up flat and stable. I don't suggest putting a long screw through the front panel all the way to the pcb because it will end up pinching and bending either the panel or the pcb, and the screen will twist downwards at the bottom. (Also trim the leads on the top of the display so they don't hit the panel!)
20200110_012227.jpg
And then I'm taking the extra step of putting an extra nut on the encoders below the panel. I'm just eyeballing them to the height of the jacks, and then using a flat screwdriver to adjust them while I get the panel on. This is partly to control the spacing of the screen at the bottom, partly to give some strength to the panel due to the buttons. Between these extra nuts here and the washers on the top of the screen, everything ends up being parallel to the pcb.
20200110_010541.jpg
Then with the screen mounted into the panel, I carefully put it together. (The jacks and encoder already soldered in place to ensure their fit to the panel.) It takes some care to get the pins of the display into the pcb, so be gentle, don't bend them. Then get the nuts on the encoders and adjust the under panel encoder nuts so it's all flat.
20200110_013145.jpg
Then you solder the display to the pcb. The pins will just come through the pcb. (Depending on pin size of course.) With the panel screw tightened in the spacer, the screen should be flat. It's better to adjust the screen (with washers or however) before soldering it in place!
20200110_013717.jpg
Hard to see here but the screen is flat with the panel and fits perfect.(Yes, I have no mounting holes on this panel yet!!!)
20200110_013200.jpg
Hope this helps anyone new to this. Thanks!
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Altitude909
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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by Altitude909 » Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:19 am

the correct thickness for the washer between the display and panel is 2.5mm, all that should add up to right ~10mm which is the height of the PJ-398 jacks. Whatever can be used to get to as close as that number as possible. I added a note to the official BOM to that extent, its kinda important since thats not a great place to be flexing the PCB (and why those are there in the first place) so they need to be right

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by KittenVillage » Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:36 am

Altitude909 wrote:
Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:19 am
the correct thickness for the washer between the display and panel is 2.5mm, all that should add up to right ~10mm which is the height of the PJ-398 jacks. Whatever can be used to get to as close as that number as possible. I added a note to the official BOM to that extent, its kinda important since thats not a great place to be flexing the PCB (and why those are there in the first place) so they need to be right
I think the ones I'm using are supposed to be 1mm, but they aren't very exact.

I feel the spacer is needed at the bottom of the display partly because I have small kids and I want to eliminate the possibility of it being poked. I can't recall if those are in the official BOM or not. I'm also about 10 months into the building adventure so I've amassed a good collection of screw and spacer sizes.

I also feel the nut under the encoder really helps give the whole thing strength, Tayda sells them for 2 or 5 cents, I think. Maybe my first build was a tiny nightmare with flexing and trying to get a long screw all the way through panel and pcb? I can't recall. But between superstition and small kids I'm going to put them on my next one as well.


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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by dimduj » Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:32 am

Hi everybody,

I'm looking for a little help about my uoc build.

I've built two uoc using jakplugg v 6_9_17 and the BOM of the readme

I've the same issue on two:
During the calibration of CV output I've only 0.3v (not 1V) increment on each step on CV outputs.... but I've no idea what it could be .

I assume this is not a mechanical problem since the error is the same on the two units and the rest seems to work as it should.
What should I check to try to debug ?

I double check each solder join and each resistor value but I can find any misplaced elements and the communication between Teensy and DAC seems to work since I got the constant incrment of 0.3v for each step ?

I got the 3.3v on DAC pin4
2.49 on DAC pin3
1.24 on OpAmp pin 3
So this seems to be OK ?

Any advice will be much appreciated !

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by cnicht » Sat Feb 08, 2020 10:58 am

Do you have the correct component values round U3 and U4?

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Re: uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

Post by dimduj » Sat Feb 08, 2020 1:05 pm

Thank you so much @cnicht

I double check value around ICs and there was a bad ressistor value for the 100k. Mouser ( or me ?) swap the ressistor in the 100k bag :doh: .

Everything is working now !!!! I’m so happy :tu:

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