uO_c 8hp ornament and crime.

[autodafe]

..or use a brand that has labels on them

yeah, I still need to check if I mislabeled the bags or if I simply took the wrong bag...However, replacing all 100K resistor did the trick, of course.
Sorry for my dumbness

[snowtires]

I don't think I've ever seen a Teensy soldered UNDER sockets before. Did you solder the extra pin? Er... socket? I think this is one of the ones I built recently that has an extra pin that needs to be connected from the Teensy, beyond the two rows of headers.

edit: nvm, it doesn't have one

[autodafe]

ahaha this is a Teensy I had around, which I used with the "Audio Board" on top, so it has male pins on the bottom and female pins on top for the Audio Board ;-)

[jpeterman]

Can someone help me out here? First, what is the display PCB? I didn't see any mention of such PCB till I perused this thread. Synthcube, ModularAddict, etc have no mention of it anywhere or stock it.

Second, I noticed my mxmxmx pcb I ordered from synthcube (https://synthcube.com/cart/mxmxmx-uo-an ... ption=true) has two components which are not in most BOMs, including this BOM I have been referencing:


There is a U12 and R53 component under the Teensy. I have no idea what they are supposed to be, I presume U12 is some kind of voltage regulator.

If anyone could get back to me asap that would be sweet, trying to place a mouser order ASAP.

[bawbag]

U12 MIC803 MIC803-26D4VM3-TR
R53 100k resistor 1%

[jpeterman]

How about the display PCB? Is that necessary w/ all displays?

[Altitude909]

How about the display PCB? Is that necessary w/ all displays?

thats only for if youre building your own display. Most people just get an off the shelf one

[cnicht]

Can someone help me out here? First, what is the display PCB? I didn't see any mention of such PCB till I perused this thread. Synthcube, ModularAddict, etc have no mention of it anywhere or stock it.

Second, I noticed my mxmxmx pcb I ordered from synthcube (https://synthcube.com/cart/mxmxmx-uo-an ... ption=true) has two components which are not in most BOMs, including this BOM I have been referencing:


There is a U12 and R53 component under the Teensy. I have no idea what they are supposed to be, I presume U12 is some kind of voltage regulator.

If anyone could get back to me asap that would be sweet, trying to place a mouser order ASAP.

They’re needed for the ‘soft start’ facility to hold the microcontroller in reset as the power rails stabilise

[jpeterman]

Having a bit of an issue here with the tactile switches. No matter how low or high the button caps sit on the switches, I can't get any action. With the cap on, the switch doesn't seem to go down (or come back up).

[Altitude909]

it looks like your missing the 3mm spacer at the top between the screen and panel so the buttons are catching on the flexed panel. The height of the panel at the top should be 10mm off the PCB. Its PCB-6mm spacer-screen-3mm spacer-panel

[bawbag]

Also the caps of the tact switches aren't fully on; they should fully encapsulate the bulbous square part of the switch. When properly mounted, the caps should only protrude about 2mm above the panel.
In fact, that might be the main issue - the cap is splayed open as it's not fully on, so it may as Altitude909 posted be stuck in the hole in the panel.

[jpeterman]

Yeah, I don't have a spacer between screen and panel. Looked at my local electronics store and ace hardware, no luck on 3mm spacer. But I just measured it and I think 3mm might actually stretch the panel. I probably should have used a socket for the screens pins instead of soldering directly.

[Altitude909]

Yeah, I don't have a spacer between screen and panel. Looked at my local electronics store and ace hardware, no luck on 3mm spacer. But I just measured it and I think 3mm might actually stretch the panel. I probably should have used a socket for the screens pins instead of soldering directly.

The correct spacer configuration is 6mm under the screen, 3mm above it between the panel. It doesnt have to be a standoff, you can just use some nylon washers that add up to 2.5-3mm

[japes]

-edit-

NM, sorted

[mandlia]

Hi there fellow DIYers. I'm building this as my first SMD build and in finalising the soldering of the resistors, I realise my PCB doesn't have R53 or U12 under the Teensy. That explains why I never found somewhere to put the thirteenth resistor :-)

Comparing to a second uo_c PCB that I got, I can see that that one actually has these, indicating it's another version of the board.

My question is, will this affect the performance or function of the module in any way? Are there any other differences between these two versions of the board that you know of? Am I good with using the R53 BOM for completing the rest of the non-R53 build?

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

[Altitude909]

Thats the voltage supervisor that helps deal with the hanging startup issue on some power supplies, it is optional and doesnt affect functionality , unless youre one of the people with the hang on boot issue of course

[mandlia]

Thats the voltage supervisor that helps deal with the hanging startup issue on some power supplies, it is optional and doesnt affect functionality , unless youre one of the people with the hang on boot issue of course

Thank you very much!

[jpeterman]

So after a slight issue with continuity between two rails, that I was able to resolve fairly easily, I got my module working just fine. However, these screens being sold on Amazon have been quite janky. I had to take it out because of a fair amount of dead pixels. When I was desoldering I managed to take out the solder pad for the "RES" on the display. The display does not turn on now. I've repaired plenty of stuff but not multilayered boards like this, where everything is right next to each other. Looking at the gerber files, it looks like that pad, through some vias, connects to pin 9 on the IC (teensy)? Should I run a jumper from that pad to that pin or is there a cleaner way?

[jpeterman]

To clarify, I only swapped out the screen, and this happened. I did solder that pin on the other side to mitigate this problem. I thought that would take care of it. Its getting 3.3Vs to the VCC pin; not sure whats going on.

[pjbulls]

Yeah, if you delaminate one solder pad there's usually still one on the other side. If it doesn't work then running a jumper wire is probably your best option (you could check first if you already have continuity, if so then the issue is elsewhere). The screen's Reset indeed goes to Teensy pin 9.

[jpeterman]

Their is continuity. I have read Amazon reviews of displays being duds (not this particular one, but another one on amazon I bought). I don't think two of em would be duds though.

[Altitude909]

Their is continuity. I have read Amazon reviews of displays being duds (not this particular one, but another one on amazon I bought). I don't think two of em would be duds though.

ive had 3/5 be bad. Dont order from "Hitletgo" on amazon, those used to be good but lately they switched to another manufacturer and they are garbage

[cnicht]

I’m not connected to this company in any way but I’ve always had good service/products from https://www.buydisplay.com/

[Altitude909]

I’m not connected to this company in any way but I’ve always had good service/products from https://www.buydisplay.com/

That's where i order mine from, i have not had a single dud

[mcleinn]

FWIW I added a 2.4" display from the same shop to my uO&C to create a "Makro" 5U version:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=164564&p=3463462&h ... C#p3463462 (original PCB can be seen on the last picture)