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satindas
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Post by satindas » Fri Oct 26, 2018 9:44 am

So your -8V is good, but pin8 -where you see -1.4V- is definitely wrong. You should be seeing ~+8V ! Can you test the same pin (8) on U4 - the next one along.
These are bizarre manifestations of untamed high-frequency parasitic oscillations...
www.psycox.co.uk

RichTea
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Post by RichTea » Fri Oct 26, 2018 10:02 am

RichTea wrote:
satindas wrote:
RichTea wrote:
satindas wrote:
RichTea wrote:Hi folks,

I've just finished my build but I have a problem with the control board. I seem to lose the -8v at IC1 and its dropping down to -1.4V. I cant seem to figure out why its doing this. Has anyone had anything similar? Its really bugging me.
It's a bit odd that that you're seeing -1.4V only at IC1 ... are you sure your measuring at the correct pin ? (pin 4 - top right as you look at the board)
Sorry my mistake, not ic1. Its marked U1 on the silk screen reference.I also cant get the correct voltage on the nose circuit, again getting around 1.4v. so i'm guessing the problem is related?


U1 is ic1 ! Exactly which part of the "noise circuit" are you referring to ? Where are you measuring 1.4V ? If you're referring to point 3 and you have a kit from the first batch, change R63 (10k) to a 1k.
i shouldnt type from memory. Ive added a picture to clarify


Image

SORTED!! one of the pads had lifted up under a slider.

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satindas
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Post by satindas » Fri Oct 26, 2018 10:15 am

Glad to hear you got it sorted :tu:
These are bizarre manifestations of untamed high-frequency parasitic oscillations...
www.psycox.co.uk

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xi-bot
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Post by xi-bot » Sat Oct 27, 2018 7:28 pm

edit: sorry. just realized the BCM857 where included in the kid

LED-man wrote:After few builds:

The splitted BOM with reichelt and mouser needs few changes,
4069 are in both
10uF caps are in both
Powersupply and Powerjack are not correct
IC sockets are not the milled version
2x M3 nuts missing
No knobs in BOM

Furthermore:
I swapped the BC547 in the noise for an 2SC1815 like in the original, 10K resistor instead the “1K” change.
If you want this, bend the pins because they have a other pinout.

2 resistors have a wrong silkscreen, 1k instead of 100R (R151)
(Now you know why you left 2x 100R)
It makes no difference, it’s for the charging of the EG capacitor.
Last edited by xi-bot on Sat Oct 27, 2018 11:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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synthetek
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Post by synthetek » Sat Oct 27, 2018 10:56 pm

They are missing because they are included with the V2

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nosotokarjazzy
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Post by nosotokarjazzy » Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:41 am

My turn to ask for debugging help ...
I've just finished my built

Ch 2 has wonderfull sound
First, Ch 1 had no sound (except a "clip" when trigged) ... I've checked all ground pads and smd BCM's ... one BCM847 was not well soldered !
I fixed the solder and now Ch 1 give me sound, i can hear that the different functionnalities work ... but the level is so low/noisy.
LFO level seems normal, the VCO is low

I've swapped all CD4069, same result ...
Where should i search now ?

Cheers

FIXED !!
I've traced the signal ..
Conclusion :
- Normal VCO's outs / VCF IN
- Anormal VCF out
==> Q33 was defected !

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

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xi-bot
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Post by xi-bot » Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:47 pm

edit: fixed it. bad solder joint on BCM857. horrible little thing :goo:

hi,
i can't get vco2 to run on channel 1.
i wonder how to debug / isolate vco2 to the basic parts needed ?
hope i did not fry the BCM857 as they seem hard to source ;-(
i swapped the 4069 already without success. anything else seems to work.
didn't test midi yet.

thanks for any help !

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xi-bot
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Post by xi-bot » Sun Nov 04, 2018 8:35 pm

i am pretty shure something is wrong with the atmega provided with my kit.
i swapped it with one i programmed with arduino today. so midi in (cable, optocopler etc.) is working fine.
is there a possibility to replace/burn the needed atmega myself ?

thanks !

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satindas
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Post by satindas » Mon Nov 05, 2018 12:34 pm

[quote="xi-bot"]i am pretty shure something is wrong with the atmega provided with my kit.
i swapped it with one i programmed with arduino today. so midi in (cable, optocopler etc.) is working fine.
is there a possibility to replace/burn the needed atmega myself ?

thanks ![/quote

In which position do you have the midi mode switch when testing with the provided Atmega ?
These are bizarre manifestations of untamed high-frequency parasitic oscillations...
www.psycox.co.uk

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xi-bot
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Post by xi-bot » Mon Nov 05, 2018 1:39 pm

satindas wrote:
xi-bot wrote:i am pretty shure something is wrong with the atmega provided with my kit.
i swapped it with one i programmed with arduino today. so midi in (cable, optocopler etc.) is working fine.
is there a possibility to replace/burn the needed atmega myself ?

thanks ![/quote

In which position do you have the midi mode switch when testing with the provided Atmega ?
i tried both positions.
the channel switches are all off.
and i tried to send a note 36 (chan1) from ableton and max/msp.

this is the quick and dirty code (arduino) i used successfully on a separate chip:

Code: Select all

byte statusByte;
byte dataByte1;
byte dataByte2;

uint32_t nextMillis[] = {0,0};
int pins [] = {2,3};

void setup() {
  pinMode(pins[0], OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(pins[1], OUTPUT); 
  Serial.setTimeout(10);
  Serial.begin(31250);
}

void loop() {
  midiListener();
 
  if&#40;nextMillis&#91;0&#93; < millis&#40;&#41;&#41;&#123;
    digitalWrite&#40;pins&#91;0&#93;, LOW&#41;;
  &#125;
  if&#40;nextMillis&#91;1&#93; < millis&#40;&#41;&#41;&#123;
    digitalWrite&#40;pins&#91;1&#93;, LOW&#41;;
  &#125;
&#125;
  
void midiListener&#40;&#41; &#123;
  if &#40;Serial.available&#40;&#41; > 0&#41; &#123;
      statusByte = Serial.read&#40;&#41;;
      dataByte1 = Serial.read&#40;&#41;;
      dataByte2 = Serial.read&#40;&#41;;

      if &#40;statusByte == 144&#41; &#123; 
        digitalWrite&#40;pins&#91;0&#93;, HIGH&#41;;
        nextMillis&#91;0&#93; = millis&#40;&#41; + 10;
      &#125;
      if &#40;statusByte == 145&#41; &#123; 
        digitalWrite&#40;pins&#91;1&#93;, HIGH&#41;;
        nextMillis&#91;1&#93; = millis&#40;&#41; + 10;
      &#125;
    &#125;
&#125;

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satindas
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Post by satindas » Mon Nov 05, 2018 1:54 pm

xi-bot wrote: i tried both positions.
the channel switches are all off.
and i tried to send a note 36 (chan1) from ableton and max/msp.
PM'd
These are bizarre manifestations of untamed high-frequency parasitic oscillations...
www.psycox.co.uk

Noise.sophia
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Post by Noise.sophia » Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:58 am

Hi there, just finished to assembling mine and unfortunately the 220u/16 cap from the control board (power section) exploded after turning the synth on.
I thought I inverted cap polarity by accident, changed the cap and same story...
what should I check at first?
all LED seem to work in the proper way :hmm: even with the burned cap.

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Post by SMonk » Sat Nov 10, 2018 11:52 am

Just finished my build. Seems to work fine (haven't calibrated yet though), but for one small thing: The trigger switches quite often double trig. Is this normal?

When trigging externally it works fine, no double trigging.

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Post by aabbcc » Sat Nov 10, 2018 12:22 pm

SMonk wrote:Just finished my build. Seems to work fine (haven't calibrated yet though), but for one small thing: The trigger switches quite often double trig. Is this normal?

When trigging externally it works fine, no double trigging.
Yeah mine was the same :p

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Post by LED-man » Sat Nov 10, 2018 1:02 pm

Noise.sophia wrote:Hi there, just finished to assembling mine and unfortunately the 220u/16 cap from the control board (power section) exploded after turning the synth on.
I thought I inverted cap polarity by accident, changed the cap and same story...
what should I check at first?
all LED seem to work in the proper way :hmm: even with the burned cap.
Maybe a wrong LM7908 instead of 7808 ?
Or TL497 I’m wrong orientation?
Or just a short from soldering.
################################
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https://www.DSL-man.de

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Post by Noise.sophia » Mon Nov 12, 2018 7:42 am

LED-man wrote:
Maybe a wrong LM7908 instead of 7808 ?
Or TL497 I’m wrong orientation?
Or just a short from soldering.
I will check those 3 tips and see if I can solve it!
Thanks!

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Post by LED-man » Mon Nov 12, 2018 1:17 pm

Some users reported a coil hiss in the SY-1M
I repaired today a SY-1M successful with my “THC psu Fix” pcb.
Image
################################
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Post by groove » Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:32 pm

Noise.sophia wrote:Hi there, just finished to assembling mine and unfortunately the 220u/16 cap from the control board (power section) exploded after turning the synth on.
I thought I inverted cap polarity by accident, changed the cap and same story...
what should I check at first?
all LED seem to work in the proper way :hmm: even with the burned cap.
Well - mine seems to be doing the same thing. I caught the 220u cap before it blew outright, but it was starting to deform. Sure seems like I might have the caps backward - I assumed the stripe end of the cap silkscreen on the pcb is the negative terminal... ?

EDIT: looks like they're all backwards! omg. :doh:

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Post by synaptech » Thu Nov 15, 2018 1:33 pm

groove wrote:
Noise.sophia wrote:Hi there, just finished to assembling mine and unfortunately the 220u/16 cap from the control board (power section) exploded after turning the synth on.
I thought I inverted cap polarity by accident, changed the cap and same story...
what should I check at first?
all LED seem to work in the proper way :hmm: even with the burned cap.
Well - mine seems to be doing the same thing. I caught the 220u cap before it blew outright, but it was starting to deform. Sure seems like I might have the caps backward - I assumed the stripe end of the cap silkscreen on the pcb is the negative terminal... ?

EDIT: looks like they're all backwards! omg. :doh:
Doh I literally just did the same on Friday! Should have replacements on the way today.

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Post by synaptech » Thu Nov 15, 2018 6:19 pm

Just swapped in the replacements at lunch and it looks like everything is working now!

Make sure the notch around the capacitor matches the line on the silkscreen, resist the urge to match the nipple on the cap to the nipple on the silkscreen.

Just need to do calibration and I should be all set. :banana:

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Post by groove » Fri Nov 16, 2018 4:44 pm

synaptech wrote:Just swapped in the replacements at lunch and it looks like everything is working now!

Make sure the notch around the capacitor matches the line on the silkscreen, resist the urge to match the nipple on the cap to the nipple on the silkscreen.

Just need to do calibration and I should be all set. :banana:
Yeah, that was confusing for me. Seemed pretty clear the nipple and the line were indicating negative terminal. Whoops!

I have the issue now of a quiet 2nd channel. I swapped ICs between channels and reflowed as much as I could, but no dice, yet.

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Post by mtrnn » Wed Nov 21, 2018 1:15 am

Hey is it possible to update the firmware to have velocity sensitive triggers from midi? Because the original design would react on the triggers with different levels. Just small yet important dimension when sculpting rhythms with it

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Post by dopeboy_magic » Wed Nov 21, 2018 5:25 pm

howdy. this is actually my first post so shoutout satindas for building this kit and sucking me into the DIY wormhole.

I've searched around, found a ton of useful info, but I still had a few unanswered questions (excuse my lack of knowledge or definitions)

How would you rate this build for a beginner?

How do you check your work as you go? Should I be checking every resistor, capacitor, transistor, etc solder joint with my multi-meter?

Is there anything as a beginner that I should know about this kit that maybe wasn't in the build guide?
(I saw a few components with polarity, I don't really know what else to expect)

This is my first diy project, in fact, my first experience with soldering. I've learned a great deal from youtube and the diy learning resource center thread here (I want all those books). So I think I'm off to a good start. I have a lot of patience and a good iron. I've started with the control board and it all seems relatively easy but I do wonder if is this not the project to learn soldering on.

I don't want to pay a builder to do it simply because I really want to learn. BUT I also don't want to be arrogant and find out I've damaged a board or ruined something beyond repair. I don't even know what the worst case scenario would be? I do know however this is the gamble everyone takes on kits but I'm hoping to get some helpful insight on this particular one.

I really want to do this correct the first time since I know I don't have the expertise to troubleshoot after the fact. Any recommendations pertaining to this build would be greatly appreciated!

mad propers to satindas for such a cool kit!

:bacon:

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Bodo1967
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Post by Bodo1967 » Thu Nov 22, 2018 2:49 am

dopeboy_magic wrote:How would you rate this build for a beginner? [...] This is my first diy project, in fact, my first experience with soldering.
Frankly, I do not consider the SY-1M a really well suited project for beginners. Sorry if this sounds a bit harsh, I don't mean to.
But: You have to solder SMD double transistors (the BCM847/857), and loads of them too. They look like small 6-legged ICs (in total, including the legs, about 3 mm * 3mm or even slightly less). The gap between the legs is about 0.5 mm.
It's - of course - doable, but having some thorough soldering experience is definitely advisable to do these tiny things. I found these to be the smallest size I could still handle myself with a common soldering station (these transistors also come in an even smaller package, which I would not have been able to solder), and I consider myself fairly experienced, having successfully built quite a few SDIY projects including a TTSH, a MFOS Ultimate, Soundlab Mini and Vocoder, a Jasper, an ARP 1601 clone, the Oakley SRE330 etc.

Second, some of the ground pads are hard to solder due to strong heat dissipation leading to bad solder joints (disclaimer: in the first batch, I don't know about the second one - supposedly this has been dealt with).
I still have to resolder these in my build sometime :ripbanana: .
dopeboy_magic wrote:How do you check your work as you go? Should I be checking every resistor, capacitor, transistor, etc solder joint with my multi-meter?.
Check every part for its print/color code etc. so you always put the correct one where it belongs. Accidentally using a BCM847 instead of a BCM857 (and vice versa) will definitely cause problems, as in: It won't work.
Make sure corresponding parts (diodes, electrolytic caps, transistors...) are soldered in the correct direction. Read the - very good, kudos to satindas btw! - build guide very thoroughly and follow it strictly.
Check solder joints (especially the BCM847/857 in this case) with a magnifier.
dopeboy_magic wrote:Is there anything as a beginner that I should know about this kit that maybe wasn't in the build guide?
It's all in there, including very useful "maps" showing where every part goes. It does not give you the previous soldering experience, though ;).
dopeboy_magic wrote:I've started with the control board and it all seems relatively easy but I do wonder if is this not the project to learn soldering on. I don't want to pay a builder to do it simply because I really want to learn.
The control board is the easier one since all the SMD transistors are on the voice board ;). However, perhaps leave soldering these to someone with more experience, and just do the rest? That still leaves plenty of good "I've done it myself!" feeling for you :D.
... why buy it for $100 when you can build it yourself for $150?

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dopeboy_magic
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Post by dopeboy_magic » Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:37 am

Bodo1967 wrote:
Frankly, I do not consider the SY-1M a really well suited project for beginners. Sorry if this sounds a bit harsh, I don't mean to.

However, perhaps leave soldering these to someone with more experience, and just do the rest? That still leaves plenty of good "I've done it myself!" feeling for you :D.
thanks for taking the time bodo, I think I will try to find a builder on here at least for the smd transistors

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