uT_u 8HP micro Temps Utile build

[mutronic]

after flashing it in teensyduino it doesn't seem to make a difference so I'm back to square one

[bawbag]

Have you tested it with a different PSU?

[mutronic]

I'm positive the PSU works because I'm using a mantis case that houses all my other modules that turn on when I turn on the case. I tried a different module power cable aswell and that didn't work.

[mutronic]

OK I get power with the micro usb plugged in, but not with the Mantis case psu. Also the ADP gets really hot.

[Altitude909]

..Also the ADP gets really hot.

3v3A power rail short. Check your opamp orientation

[mutronic]

Op amps are oriented correctly. With the PSU plugged in I get 11v on all the op amps vcc+-.

[Altitude909]

Op amps are oriented correctly. With the PSU plugged in I get 11v on all the op amps vcc+-.

thats wrong. U5 and U10 are 6002s, they should on 3V3A, not VCC

[mutronic]

Op amps are oriented correctly. With the PSU plugged in I get 11v on all the op amps vcc+-.

thats wrong. U5 and U10 are 6002s, they should on 3V3A, not VCC

ah I thought you were referring to the T072s

[mutronic]

Alright so with the micro usb powered in I get around 4.3v on the ADP and 6002s. With the PSU I get 1.3v or so across the board.

[mutronic]

Also, U6 gets 10.3v on pin 2, and 5.5v on pin 3 which seems like a lot

[mutronic]

Something I've realized after going through this thing is I've been using an LD1117DT50CTR instead of an LM1117DTX-5.0/NOPB for the voltage regulator. Does it matter that much what kind of 1117 it is?


*EDIT* after going through my past orders I figured out what kind of voltage regulator it is

[pjbulls]

No, they should be interchangeable for this module. They differ slightly in their specs/ratings but not to the extent that one will work and the other won't.

[mandlia]

Hi everyone, I'm starting a uT_u build in parallell to my uO_c build project while I'm waiting for Swedish customs to process my LCDs from China. It's been a couple of weeks now ...

I got two questions with which I would be very happy if you could help me out:

1. It seems I accidentally got a 3.0V ADP150 for both of my projects, but the BOMs specify 3.3V. Is there an alternative to order new, exactly matching, 3.3Vs?
2. Can someone confirm that the jumper connection J2 is permanent, i.e. no need for a header with detachable jumper, just soldering a connection between the left, square pad and the middle pad of that section, and just leave the third one?

Edit: These are the ADP150s I got off of Mouser.

[mandlia]

You may encounter pictures that show the bridge rectifier oriented incorrectly. The silkscreen is correct, and should be installed thus...

Was a bit confused here, my PCB looks like this (see attached).

If the silkscreen is right about the orientation, then the pad placement is wrong. What is the correct placement of this part? Should I bend/cut the legs to fit it properly to the orientation that the silkscreen propose, or should I rotate the rectifier?

[Altitude909]

ignore that picture with the blue PCB, that's wrong and whoever posted that has no clue what they are doing. The silk screen is correct and the + pad in your pic is Pin 1 (the one closest the C7 label) so it should be 90 deg counter clockwise as pictured

[mutronic]

ignore that picture with the blue PCB, that's wrong and whoever posted that has no clue what they are doing. The silk screen is correct and the + pad in your pic is Pin 1 (the one closest the C7 label) so it should be 90 deg counter clockwise as pictured

002.JPG

I think that's from a 1.2 board...so the line should be facing up for a 1.2??

[mandlia]

Thanks, I can verify that I have the 1.2 version of the board. Awaiting confirmation from Altitude909 to make sure.

I got two questions with which I would be very happy if you could help me out:

1. It seems I accidentally got a 3.0V ADP150 for both of my projects, but the BOMs specify 3.3V. Is there an alternative to order new, exactly matching, 3.3Vs?
2. Can someone confirm that the jumper connection J2 is permanent, i.e. no need for a header with detachable jumper, just soldering a connection between the left, square pad and the middle pad of that section, and just leave the third one?

Edit: These are the ADP150s I got off of Mouser.

Anyone?

[Altitude909]

..

I think that's from a 1.2 board...so the line should be facing up for a 1.2??

That part has not changed on any revision. Im not sure what line youre referring too, there are several variations of the MB1S depending on manufacture but pin 1 is always pin 1 and that is the lower left hand corner in my picture (the tapered side with the +)

..
1. It seems I accidentally got a 3.0V ADP150 for both of my projects, but the BOMs specify 3.3V. Is there an alternative to order new, exactly matching, 3.3Vs?
2. Can someone confirm that the jumper connection J2 is permanent, i.e. no need for a header with detachable jumper, just soldering a connection between the left, square pad and the middle pad of that section, and just leave the third one?

Edit: These are the ADP150s I got off of Mouser.

1: It should be 3v3 for temps.
2: Yes, permanent. That header is something that got grandfathered in and it really serves no purpose. To connect CL4 you have to run a wire jumper from the underside of the teensy and even if you do that, its not supported in the current software so it's kind of a tailbone thing. Originally, there were plans to add apps that actually used the DAC on the teensy but no one came up with a good use for it so it just became another gate out (albeit a 4V one) since it was easier to wire up than the CL4 clock out

[mandlia]

That part has not changed on any revision. Im not sure what line youre referring too, there are several variations of the MB1S depending on manufacture but pin 1 is always pin 1 and that is the lower left hand corner in my picture (the tapered side with the +)

Thanks for clarifying! My MB1S did neither have a line, nor a tapered side, but with your help I have verified the correct orientation so I'm good to go

1: It should be 3v3 for temps.
2: Yes, permanent. That header is something that got grandfathered in and it really serves no purpose. To connect CL4 you have to run a wire jumper from the underside of the teensy and even if you do that, its not supported in the current software so it's kind of a tailbone thing. Originally, there were plans to add apps that actually used the DAC on the teensy but no one came up with a good use for it so it just became another gate out (albeit a 4V one) since it was easier to wire up than the CL4 clock out

1. Great, I'll source new, replacement parts. How important is ultra low noise vs. low noise for these parts? I have much better access to this one, labelled "low noise" than the one specified in the BOM, labelled "ultra low noise", but if it's important I will turn to Mouser for the BOM-specified one.
2. Thanks for confirming!

[Altitude909]

It doesnt matter what version of the 3v3

[mandlia]

Excellent, thanks for all your help!

[ritchiedrums]

I purchased a Temps 8hp from Reverb & it's working fine.
BUT
Every time it powers on All Pulsewidths default to 25ms
I have saved multiple presets that are around 4 - 5ms.
If I recall those presets all parameters load, but they all go back to 25ms.
It is driving me crazy!
How can I fix this?
Thanx

[bawbag]

I purchased a Temps 8hp from Reverb & it's working fine.
BUT
Every time it powers on All Pulsewidths default to 25ms
I have saved multiple presets that are around 4 - 5ms.
If I recall those presets all parameters load, but they all go back to 25ms.
It is driving me crazy!
How can I fix this?
Thanx

https://github.com/patrickdowling/temps ... x/misc_fix
Edit: that was a bit too brief.
You need to build the updated FW from the Github and flash the Teensy.