Plaits DIY

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brycecake
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Post by brycecake » Thu Nov 22, 2018 1:21 pm

ZZ Ardoz wrote:
brycecake wrote:
ZZ Ardoz wrote:BeeHive is alive!

Image

Are both these panels aluminum? Where'd you get them done?
I just dug through the files on github but only barely understand what's all there. Was hoping there would be a pcb panel like nanoRings
There's a diptrace panel file available in the repositories - it's not this design, but you can export gerbers and have them made at pcbway, etc

These are pcb
I found them thank you. Put my first order into pcbway today, hope I did everything right.... If all goes well I'll be trying to figure out what to do with +4 extra Beehives. :yay:

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:54 am

Anyone built Antumbra knit? I just built it - its exactly the same as Plaits but is separated into two boards and uses 0603 components.

I cannot for the life of me get the connection to the Arm chip using ST-Link/V2 and STlink Utility (I have even updated to the latest version).

I connect the 4 pins on the board (RESET, SWCLK, SWDIO, GND) to the corresponding pins 15 (STM32RESET), 9 (SWCLK), 7 (SWIO) and 20 (GND) of the St-link. I even connect on the ST-link pin 1(VCC) to pin 19(3.3V) as suggested on a different thread on Marbles.

This is the error I get when I check the error log on STLink Utility:

ST-Link get version failure
USB communication error (65657) after target cmd F1 80 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
ST-Link get version failure
The detected STM32 firmware version (V0.J0) does not support the DAP read command.

I have checked the connections of every single pin on the stm32f373cct6 chip. I have even checked using a multimeter when the device powered on and am getting 3.3V from all of the 3.3V pins on the chip.

I have always used just the mini-jtag in the past but this design is different so am not sure if what I am doing is correct. Maybe I did something to the chip and fried it?

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:17 am

Have you tried updating the STlink firmware in the STlink utility?

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:20 am

Sorry, re-read and see that you have.

I’ve had a few commas errors in the past and had to mess around with the STlink USB driver which was a pain!

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:13 am

cnicht wrote:Have you tried updating the STlink firmware in the STlink utility?
Yep, updated to the latest. V2.J32.S7.
Still not working.
Do you know what those two rx/tx header pins are for?

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sat Dec 29, 2018 10:40 am

They’re not part of the programming connection - I think they’ll be used to link to other modules.

Have you tried re-installing the USB driver for the STlink?

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sat Dec 29, 2018 12:27 pm

cnicht wrote:They’re not part of the programming connection - I think they’ll be used to link to other modules.

Have you tried re-installing the USB driver for the STlink?
Yep, just re-installed it with the latest driver. No luck.

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sat Dec 29, 2018 1:13 pm

Does the microcontroller have both the +3V3 and the +3V3_A supplies?

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sun Dec 30, 2018 2:19 am

cnicht wrote:Does the microcontroller have both the +3V3 and the +3V3_A supplies?
Thanks for this great tip - I just checked and am only getting 3.3V from the +3V3_A and not from the +3V3.

Turns out to be a bad solder joint on L1.

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:24 am

So I got it working and uploaded the firmware. All the lights turn on but I get no signal from either of the Out and Aux outputs. I have checked all of the IC connections, particularly the TL072 but they all seem fine.

Also, on power up the top led is flashing green and the bottom led is a constant red - according to a post reply by Olivier on the Mutable Instruments Forums, this issue is due to no -12V. I have checked and there is -12V going into the TL072 chip VEE input. Could it be something to do with the PCM5100? There is definitely 3.3V going into both 3V3 an 3V3_A inputs of the PCM5100 but nothing coming out of the Output pins (6 and 7).

The other possibility is that when I was testing the voltage before I accidentally had my probe touch both the -12V and ground pin of the power at the same time and it sparked - I was concerned that I fried something but the code uploaded and everything powers on. Nothing seems to have visible signs of damage.

However, when I test the DAC_DIN pin of the STM32, I get a very tiny signal but no signal from the DAC_LRCK and DAC_BCK pins of the STM32.

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sun Dec 30, 2018 7:45 am

Do you have the jack sockets installed?

The microcontroller needs to see the normalisation signal on the GATE and TRIG inputs otherwise no signal will come out of the DAC. You can dry fit the sockets J6 and J7 to test this (they’re labelled this on the original Plaits not sure what they are on the Knot)

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sun Dec 30, 2018 8:13 am

cnicht wrote:Do you have the jack sockets installed?

The microcontroller needs to see the normalisation signal on the GATE and TRIG inputs otherwise no signal will come out of the DAC. You can dry fit the sockets J6 and J7 to test this (they’re labelled this on the original Plaits not sure what they are on the Knot)
I somehow managed to fix the problem and its all working now..mostly.
So it turns out there was something wrong with R37 in the way it was soldered - which is strange because I resoldered both sides and checked with the multimeter and there was definitely a connection. So I thought it was fried, so desoldered it - checked it with the multimeter and it was reading the correct 2.2kohm resistance. Soldered it back on and to my surprise, when I plugged it in its all working now!

Except, one thing is when I cycle through the modes with the right button (red leds), two of the modes (3rd and 6th modes) have the leds turn off (however, when I hold down on one of the buttons and adjust the knobs to get the led bargraph, all of the LEDs are working as they should so its definitely not something wrong with the LEDs themselves).

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sun Dec 30, 2018 8:32 am

What happens if you put it in ‘colour blind’ mode?

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:18 am

cnicht wrote:What happens if you put it in ‘colour blind’ mode?
Modes 3 and 6 have green led; all other modes are orange.

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Post by cnicht » Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:52 am

Have you checked continuity from the driver chip to the LEDs not giving the correct colours?

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Post by forestcaver » Sun Dec 30, 2018 10:06 am

Try calibrating - make sure the jacks are securely fitted. Also quadruple check the pins of the mcp6004s

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Post by c0ntr4d1ct10n » Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:10 pm

cnicht wrote:Have you checked continuity from the driver chip to the LEDs not giving the correct colours?
Thanks! Turns out I didn't check the soldering of the driver chip and had to resolder the pins that were connected to the red legs of the 3rd and 6th leds.

It's all working now!

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:28 am

Result!

alexam
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Post by alexam » Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:35 pm

Hi, does anybody know if this alu cap is also a working option instead of the one in the BOM:

https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Nic ... BOIlMm8%3d

the ripple current and life is different, but would it be recongnizeable in the sound or anything?

thanks!

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cnicht
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Post by cnicht » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:34 am

Should be ok in this application - just make sure they fit the PCB you’re using!

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Post by alexam » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:26 am

very nice, thank you!

collumn2016
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USed wrong leds in plaits build, doesnt work correctly

Post by collumn2016 » Mon Mar 04, 2019 6:56 pm

HI,I built a plaits but the leds would not light after flashing. Flash went okay using stlink v2 verified etc. I am not an electronics or programming expert, just know a little bit of basic electronics. I worked out the leds, i sourced from ebay, were common cathode rather than common anode, i replaced them with ones sourced from mouser and i checked they were common anode before soldering them in and they work fine now. Could this have blown some chips etc? Some of the models work, as they are described, but chords, chord change using harmonics knob does not work. I only get output from the aux socket and checked the resistors and capacitors around the TL072 but the 33k on the output side was low at 18k, were the aux side measured 33k, so i thought maybe the TL072 had blown somehow, so i replaced it, which was very difficult, nothing changed. I find it quite hard to trace the paths around the board, as i have little experience in this, but the next chip up is the PCM5100APW it seems to have 2 audio outs, one goes to the aux side of the TL072 and the other to the output side. One of the main models i was keen on, the Vowel and speech synthesis one, does not work either and some of the red button models seem okay but not all. Can anyone help me narrow down my next target chip? I built this slowly and methodicaly and used a microscope to solder all the chips so i am happy with their joints and have checked them a few times just in case. Could this be software or cpu? I am very frustraed as i built clouds and elements and they both work fine. I am currently working on marbles, which is very fiddly but not doing too bad so far. Thanks guys in advance.

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Re: USed wrong leds in plaits build, doesnt work correctly

Post by brycecake » Mon Mar 04, 2019 8:25 pm

collumn2016 wrote:HI,I built a plaits but the leds would not light after flashing. Flash went okay using stlink v2 verified etc. I am not an electronics or programming expert, just know a little bit of basic electronics. I worked out the leds, i sourced from ebay, were common cathode rather than common anode, i replaced them with ones sourced from mouser and i checked they were common anode before soldering them in and they work fine now. Could this have blown some chips etc?

I don't think that's it. Common cathode arrangement wouldn't cause any shorts or fatal connections, just not the right orientation for LEDs to light. Even if it did, more than likely would only damage the tlc59281 that drives the LEDs.
I built three plaits, one had an nonresponsive harmonics pot, other one had no audio out of either out. Both times (and most any times I have a non functioning smd project), it was due to residual flux on the board. I have lifted ICs, CERTAIN of their demise and ready to replace, and discovered a smorgasbord of flux underneath, futzing shit up. Having the right stuff to clean your board after really helps.
Don't suppose you have an oscilloscope of some sort? It's nice to be able to poke around and figure out where the signal flow stops.
Sorry it's gotten to be so frustrating, I think we've all been there. Don't lose sleep over it, it's probably one or two little things :)

collumn2016
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Post by collumn2016 » Tue Mar 05, 2019 3:37 pm

HI Brysecake, thank you very much for replying appreciate any feedback. Read a few comments above about normalisation which made me wonder abou he the sockest etc. I dont understand why some models seem to work okay and others dont. I dont know about how the algorithmns are stored in memeory on the cpu but as it goes higher seems to indicate something there as the selection is with 2 switches connected to the cpu and nothing else between. I have a nice scope but dont know what to look for or where to test etc. KNow the dac receives signals from the cpu and then on to the TL072.. Thanks for your generosity. Take it easy.

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Post by brycecake » Tue Mar 05, 2019 5:55 pm

collumn2016 wrote:Read a few comments above about normalisation which made me wonder abou he the sockest etc. I dont understand why some models seem to work okay and others dont.
The normalization probe can certainly cause that sort of odd behavior if it's not functioning properly. I would check around the BAT54 for shorts, excess flux, whatever.
Also I noted on my Plaits that there are many points in the speech synthesis mode that are completely silent. You said the harmonics knob isn't working correctly? If your harmonics pot was shorted to ground or 3.3v it may appear to not work. Also, the harmonics pot controls the range, and if your plaits is in lfo mode, many modes would be inaudible, while several of the red modes would still have some noise. Just some observations.

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