[AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

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fuzzbass
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Post by fuzzbass » Sat Oct 12, 2019 5:34 am

LED-man wrote:
goyousalukis wrote:I've been working my way through the build guide, and I am working on the 4012 VCF right now. On the PCB, there are 4 caps labeled 10n. fuzzbass's guide list these as film caps. I do not see them listed on the BOM v1.4, and I do not seem to have them in my kit. There are only 4 film capacitors listed on the BOM, and none are labeled 10n (or .01uf).
Normally 10nF c0g (MLCC) or polypropylene is on the 4012 Card, which is needed for the ladder (between the matched pair 2n3904)
This is an error in my build doc. Proceed with the .01u MLCCs included in the kit.
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acidbabe
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Post by acidbabe » Sat Oct 12, 2019 5:44 am

Hello wigglers,

I have sent emails twice to info at synthcube dot com concerning my TTSHv4 order, but never got an answer. Is this the right addresss?

thx, acid

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Post by synthcube » Sat Oct 12, 2019 7:49 am

yes that is the correct address- we will also check spam folder... PM also works if you like
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Post by acidbabe » Sat Oct 12, 2019 7:58 am

solved! Thank you very much - perfect service!

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Post by dComposer » Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:05 pm

Jim the Oldbie wrote:Howdy folks,

Are there any pics of the standard powder-coat metal case out there? I've searched around and couldn't find one.

I'm thinking about making some simple walnut cheeks for my TTSH metal case when it arrives, to make it look like the 1601 sequencer case as much as possible.
Hi Jim - I just got my powder coated case today and it really looks nice! I’ll try to get some better pics for you tomorrow but this is the only one I have on me right now.Image

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Jim the Oldbie
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Post by Jim the Oldbie » Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:48 pm

Wow, thanks a lot for posting this! It does look nice, and your pic answers my questions. I'm thinking a nice pair of oiled walnut end panels would look good on this case.

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Post by synthcube » Sun Oct 13, 2019 11:24 am

Jim the Oldbie wrote:Wow, thanks a lot for posting this! It does look nice, and your pic answers my questions. I'm thinking a nice pair of oiled walnut end panels would look good on this case.
:yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay:
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dComposer
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Post by dComposer » Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:08 pm

For the 4012: do I use the mlcc 100nf’s or the film 100nf’s? Also, is there a cheater guide anywhere that shows which reference designators go where (ie, I have no clue what C107L refers to)? Thanks!

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Post by KlangGenerator » Thu Oct 17, 2019 3:12 am

I just realized that the C56206L2X switches cost around twice as much at Mouser compared to my last order in 2017. 5 switches are 39,40€ plus VAT! If at least 10 people are interested, I could organize a group buy and reduce the price per set to 26€ including worldwide shipping.

Possibly the best thing would be to send me a PM if you're interested, so we don't spam this thread. I'd give an update here when 10 are reached.

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Post by fuzzbass » Thu Oct 17, 2019 5:16 am

dComposer wrote:For the 4012: do I use the mlcc 100nf’s or the film 100nf’s? Also, is there a cheater guide anywhere that shows which reference designators go where (ie, I have no clue what C107L refers to)? Thanks!
Use the MLCCs in the 4012. There is no cross reference to designations or board diagram using them. You should be able to build this without referring to the schematic.

See:
TTSH V4 Build Guide 1.3
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dComposer
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Post by dComposer » Thu Oct 17, 2019 6:04 am

fuzzbass wrote:Use the MLCCs in the 4012.
Thanks so much! Thanks also for the amazing build guide!

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Post by fuzzbass » Thu Oct 17, 2019 4:10 pm

I saw the first Synthcube steel cases yesterday, and happy to report that back is drilled to accept reverb pans short (types 1 or 8) or long (types 4 or 9)!
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Post by dComposer » Sun Oct 20, 2019 10:04 pm

Hey Fuzzbass: is this kind of what you meant by thermal coupling the tempco to the npn-pnp pair? Put it in the middle, squirt some thermal paste on it and then get some heatshrink over the whole deal? Thanks!
Image

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Post by tenma » Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:27 am

Just wondering where things stand with the ordering queue. How many of you (those that have ordered the kit plus panel and case) have received theirs? I ordered mine on the 6th of June

Synthcube are very slow to respond. I sent them an email a week ago through their site and never got a reply. I have ordered multiple things from them. It's odd. Apart from actually calling them up what is the best way to get a fast response? Both their email address and site chat function/contact app have the same result.

I always hear how good they are but I have to say my experiences so far with their communication skills leave a lot to be desired. Not sure how others feel about this. I've never experienced anything like it before.

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Post by synthcube » Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:36 am

we're making steady progress through the pre-order queue-- getting some positive reports about projects getting underway and looking forward to seeing examples posted here as they get built and tested... working hard to keep up with email and other communications channels - a bit behind on some emails-- and apologies to anyone we may have overlooked in the past few weeks-- just to reiterate, you can reach us via PM, email, FB messenger, phone at 7815386519, fax at 7815386521, mobile at 2488901905.
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Post by fuzzbass » Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:39 am

dComposer wrote:Hey Fuzzbass: is this kind of what you meant by thermal coupling the tempco to the npn-pnp pair? Put it in the middle, squirt some thermal paste on it and then get some heatshrink over the whole deal? Thanks!
Image
This is fine so long as the leads don't short across the resistors below. Over the weekend I build a bunch of VCF cores for commission builds. I decided change the build doc to discourage thermally coupling the tempco in the 4012, due to the risk of the leads shorting. To me it seems the benefit does not outweigh the risk. I have built many 4012s that have the tempco hugging the board and they track well.
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Post by dComposer » Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:10 am

fuzzbass wrote: This is fine so long as the leads don't short across the resistors below. Over the weekend I build a bunch of VCF cores for commission builds. I decided change the build doc to discourage thermally coupling the tempco in the 4012, due to the risk of the leads shorting. To me it seems the benefit does not outweigh the risk. I have built many 4012s that have the tempco hugging the board and they track well.
Thanks so much! Yeah I just wanted to double check before doing that because I've never done anything like this before in any other builds so between this and transistor matching this is a brave new world for me. Maybe some heat shrink on the leads would make everyone sleep easier? I'm also happy to just solder it normally!
tenma wrote: Not sure how others feel about this.
For what it's worth, I've had the complete opposite experience. Synthcube has been so attentive to my emails/posts that I almost feel guilty about contacting them! Lets not forget that this is a small business and between the move and all these orders they have to be incredibly busy right now...

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Post by aabbcc » Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:52 am

fuzzbass wrote:
dComposer wrote:Hey Fuzzbass: is this kind of what you meant by thermal coupling the tempco to the npn-pnp pair? Put it in the middle, squirt some thermal paste on it and then get some heatshrink over the whole deal? Thanks!
Image
This is fine so long as the leads don't short across the resistors below. Over the weekend I build a bunch of VCF cores for commission builds. I decided change the build doc to discourage thermally coupling the tempco in the 4012, due to the risk of the leads shorting. To me it seems the benefit does not outweigh the risk. I have built many 4012s that have the tempco hugging the board and they track well.
Why not simply insulate the leads with some heat shrink tubing? That's what I did on mine :)

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Post by dComposer » Mon Oct 21, 2019 12:16 pm

That was intense! Thanks again for all the help - hopefully my idiocy aids the community somehow :)

Here’s what I ended up doing:
Image

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Post by fuzzbass » Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:08 pm

I just found a pretty bad error in the system checkout section of my Build Guide. In the validation of the DC-DC converter sub board, all the output voltages are incorrectly stated as 12 volts, whereas they should be 15.

I will post an update soon, but keep you eyes out for this.
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Post by sduck » Mon Oct 21, 2019 8:46 pm

My question about this is: Is it worth the bother? Granted, it's not really a big deal to do this. But the thing tracks horribly anyway, all this does is provide a small amount of stability to the lousy tracking. I'd bet that if you A:B tested 2 TTSH's, one with and one without this mod, you wouldn't be able to tell the one that had it.

But there's also the counter argument (which would apply to one I built, if I was building one) - knowing that it's possible to do this, could you live without it? I think not.
dComposer wrote:That was intense! Thanks again for all the help - hopefully my idiocy aids the community somehow :)

Here’s what I ended up doing:
Image
flickr cloud of sound touyube NOT A MODERATOR ANYMORE

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Post by dComposer » Tue Oct 22, 2019 9:20 am

sduck wrote: ...knowing that it's possible to do this, could you live without it? I think not.
I enjoyed walking through that with you :lol:

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Post by search64 » Tue Oct 22, 2019 1:06 pm

Countercounterargument: with 3 well tracking VCOs, do you need a fourth?

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goyousalukis
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Post by goyousalukis » Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:08 pm

Just a head's up - I am finding there is very little tolerance between the sliders and the slider slots. I am able to fit all the sliders through the slots on my panel, except for the envelope follower slider. That slot seems to be to tight. I think I will need to hit the inside of the slot with some sandpaper to make room.

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Post by fuzzbass » Tue Oct 22, 2019 4:04 pm

goyousalukis wrote:Just a head's up - I am finding there is very little tolerance between the sliders and the slider slots. I am able to fit all the sliders through the slots on my panel, except for the envelope follower slider. That slot seems to be to tight. I think I will need to hit the inside of the slot with some sandpaper to make room.
You may find some of the holes for jacks are same. It's not the metalwork, it is just paint that gets into there. (btw: covered in my build guide, early in the process).
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