Neutron sound Dust of Time.

[NeolithicElectrophones]

Thanks. I think the Teensy is probably okay, too. I didn't cut the USB power path, so I was able to load the firmware without powering-up the module. (I never update Teensy-based modules while they're drawing rack power, so it's never an issue.)

Been all through the catalogs of the usual suspects (Smallbear, Banzai, Digi-Key, Thonk) and a few vendors I've never used before. Haven't found anything as sexy as the customer knobs Altitude is using on the built-up versions, damn it.

Oh, got you, thats a good way to approach teensy.

Hmmm, I wish i could give specific advice on the knobs I used, but I went with T18 shafts and those Rean clones from modular addict. Have you looked at Newark? They have some knobs that other places don't stock. For the price of those shapeways ones, you'd have access to most of the catalog on there.

[veets]

Hmmm, I wish i could give specific advice on the knobs I used, but I went with T18 shafts and those Rean clones from modular addict. Have you looked at Newark? They have some knobs that other places don't stock. For the price of those shapeways ones, you'd have access to most of the catalog on there.

Didn't consider Newark. That's a good idea. Thanks.

[veets]

Mine is complete and (mostly) operational. However, when it boots the following error message flashes by:

CHDIR /STWE fail
1.wav open failed
CHDIR /STWE fail
1.wav open failed
FRESH EPROM

I suspect this has something to do with the files and folders on the SD card. I placed the SD_ROOT folder with its two subfolders on the SD after formatting (MS-DOS FAT, UNTITLED). SD_ROOT is at the top level.

Any thoughts about what might be causing this?

[Altitude909]

Any thoughts about what might be causing this?

->..I placed the SD_ROOT folder with its two subfolders on the SD after formatting (MS-DOS FAT, UNTITLED). SD_ROOT is at the top level.

the two folders go in the root of the SD card, not an SD_ROOT folder. pretty sure its supposed to be FAT32, not FAT16

[veets]

Any thoughts about what might be causing this?

->..I placed the SD_ROOT folder with its two subfolders on the SD after formatting (MS-DOS FAT, UNTITLED). SD_ROOT is at the top level.

the two folders go in the root of the SD card, not an SD_ROOT folder. pretty sure its supposed to be FAT32, not FAT16

Yes. Working now. Thank you for your help, as always.

[TL072]

Hey, I see the push-button version of the panel has sold out - will there be a new batch any time soon?

[Altitude909]

just arrived today

[Naenyn]

Think I’m going to have to try one of these. Hope they’re available again soon!

[Altitude909]

Think I’m going to have to try one of these. Hope they’re available again soon!

Should be back in the shop in 1 week-10 days

[glennfin]

..- would it be possible for you to throw the hex and the SD card stuff in a zip file that's a no brainer to download? That would make my life a bit easier.

Also, I'm not happy with my voltages - at the printed on the pcb test points, I'm getting only 3v at the 3.3 point, 10.86 at the 12v point, and -11.09 at the -12v point. The 5v point is 5v. Is this within specs, or is something out of whack?

The sure fire way to download from git hub is to simply go to the root (jakplugg/Neutron-Sound-Dust-of-Time) and hit the clone/download button, it will make a zip of the whole repo and you can just grab the SD card stuff from the directory in the zip.

Your voltages look OK. With PSI power, the 12V rails are going through a bridge rectifier so there will be a drop as a result of the those diodes so youre definitely in the ballpark voltage wise.

One thing that has plagued me with the 3.6 implementations is making sure I stuff ALL the headers for the uC, if there are holes in the PCB, it gets a header connecting to the teensy, those are not optional. I attached a pic of the jig I use for the headers, you need all those.

Also worth mentioning: If you cut the power trace on the teensy, the board has to be powered to load code to it. Teensy loader is the only software you need to upload code, you do NOT need the IDE unless you want to compile it yourself and even then, teensyduino just uses teensyloader to upload that code anyway.

If you are having code upload issues, take the teensy out, jump the power if you cut it and just upload the code without the DOT attached. If that works, you have a hardware issue with your build that needs tracking down

IMG_0994.JPG

Where is that power jumper/trace on the Teensy?? I see what looks like a fuse or zero ohm resistor near the micro USB connector??...
I'm in the final stages of assembly... It will be a miracle if this works when I power it up (mainly because of the hard time I had soldering in U7). I don't see a build guide and it's hard to sift through pages here to find answers.

[NeolithicElectrophones]

White arrow shows the two pads that need to be disconnected. use a sharp tool and cut the trace, then check that there is no continuity.

14057-03.jpg (162.61 KiB) Viewed 132 times

[glennfin]

White arrow shows the two pads that need to be disconnected. use a sharp tool and cut the trace, then check that there is no continuity.

14057-03.jpg

Thanks for the quick reply! I really appreciate it. now, do I want to program the teensy before or after I cut the trace.....
probably before because once I solder those header pins on the teensy it will be harder to cut that trace.

[NeolithicElectrophones]

Happy to help! I usually just program without the module then cut the trace after I power the module without it checking voltages to the teensy pins are right. Then you can socket the teensy in and boom, great oscillations off the bat.

[NeolithicElectrophones]

White arrow shows the two pads that need to be disconnected. use a sharp tool and cut the trace, then check that there is no continuity.

14057-03.jpg

Thanks for the quick reply! I really appreciate it. now, do I want to program the teensy before or after I cut the trace.....
probably before because once I solder those header pins on the teensy it will be harder to cut that trace.

As long as you check the supply voltage to the teensy is good and no shorts on power up you should be fine cutting the trace and programming with the teensy in the module.

[veets]

I've built several teensy-based modules and no longer cut the traces. I have to occasionally remove the modules from my rack to update firmware, anyway, which means I disconnect from rack power and use USB instead. If I understand correctly, the only reason to cut the trace is to make sure you can't accidentally apply USB and rack power simultaneously. That's impossible the way I do it. As they say, your mileage may vary, and I'm certainly open to being told mine is a bad practice.

[Altitude909]

under most circumstances, it will be fine if you dont cut the trace and accidentally power it up with the USB plugged in, the regulator is behind that trace so you will just be adding 5V to it but in the DOT, what will happen is that you will murder the SD card. You can solder blob it even after its attached easily and thats always better than having to dig around for a new SD Card

[attacca]

Hey everyone. I just discovered the DoT and I'm really itching to build one... or two. Are the clickpots currently sourceable and the appropriate faceplate as well? Any current supply chain gotchas for someone in the US. I have been able to find most of the parts available but haven't worked through the whole BOM yet. Thanks!

Also, will the hardware/firmware/software eventually be open sourced? I'm primarily interested in hacking on the software side, custom modulators/effects etc. Thanks again!

[Naenyn]

I’m a little confused by the different panels shown on the Michigan Synth Works site for this module. I thought the version with the switches around the knobs was only for the older DIY version? Which panels are the current ones? Or are they all current?

[Altitude909]

They are all current. The DIY version is available with the tact switches or the click pots and each of those have their own panel. The circuit board for the electronics is the same thing for both versions (you simply dont populate some parts). The click pot version is NOT currently in stock since there are no click pots available so I am not offering them. When the click pots get restocked, Im going to sell those together the panels, it caused way too many problems to sell them separately

[attacca]

They are all current. The DIY version is available with the tact switches or the click pots and each of those have their own panel. The circuit board for the electronics is the same thing for both versions (you simply dont populate some parts). The click pot version is NOT currently in stock since there are no click pots available so I am not offering them. When the click pots get restocked, Im going to sell those together the panels, it caused way too many problems to sell them separately

Thanks for the info, I've ordered all the components except for the pots/tact-switches and PCB/Faceplate. Hopefully I can finish up the orders today.

Do the DoT 2nds Panels come with the window (preferably orange)? Would the same windows fit in a DIY Ornament & Crime?

Also, does anyone know where to get male and female headers to socket the teensy? I can't find a matching set and the sizes I have are all over the place. DigiKey and Mauser seem to have one or the other.

End user firmware hacking going to happen?

[Altitude909]

..
..
Do the DoT 2nds Panels come with the window (preferably orange)? Would the same windows fit in a DIY Ornament & Crime?

..

No and No. That's why they are $3

[attacca]

..
..
Do the DoT 2nds Panels come with the window (preferably orange)? Would the same windows fit in a DIY Ornament & Crime?

..

No and No. That's why they are $3

Ok sounds good, thank you.

How deep are peoples builds coming out? Any chance it could fit in a 4MS Pod non-X version ~35mm?

[attacca]

I've sourced and ordered the components.

For anyone looking to build one in the US right now:

The parts are in stock at Mouser except the following:

603-RC0805FR-0775KL - Digikey
858-EN11-HSM1BF20 - Digikey
858-P0915N-FC20BR10K - Digikey
SSH1106 - Amazon
MicroSD - Amazon

Thonk isn't shipping at the moment but I found jacks at Electro-Smith, they aren't thonkiconns though. You can also get male/female headers to socket the teensy there as well.

I ordered extra quantities of most parts so if you are missing something or its out of stock let me know!

[Altitude909]

You can get the jacks from synthcube or modular addict

[attacca]

You can get the jacks from synthcube or modular addict

Totally forgot about synthcube, the currently stocked ones at modular addict were twice the price so I passed on them. I don't have much experience with jacks so dunno if thonkiconns are better/worse than what I ordered. The datasheets for both are the same.

Thanks for the Panel/PCBs btw. I saw that you did a Miasma build before, can you recommend a place to get PCBs done in low quantity? What about panels? I haven't done that part of DIY stuff yet.