Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

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KillWill
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Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by KillWill » Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:00 pm

Hey just looking for some pointers from more experienced DIYers regarding desoldering some holes where I removed a 10-pin power header.

I've removed the old header, but some of the holes still have solder inside, blocking some of the pins on the new header from going though.

I've tried desoldering wick, and a regular manual plastic desoldering pump, both with limited success.

If I continue to mess around, I'm afraid I'll start lifting pads. Looking around at Amazon, would something like this do the trick, quickly and easily removing the remaining solder from inside the pin holes?:

Velleman $39 CAD ($26 USD)
Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump With Heater 30W

Any alternative suggestions or techniques would be greatly appreciated; I just want to get this module going strong.

Thanks!

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GrantB
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by GrantB » Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:03 pm

Put more solder on, then desolder again

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acinonyx
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by acinonyx » Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:31 pm

You'll only need an electric pump if you're desoldering a lot.
The best is to use a desoldering braid but it needs a little practice in order not to lift the pads. Desoldering pumps are only used for hard messes.

Some alternative suggestions:

Engineer SS-02
Edsyn Soldapullt

I prefer the Engineer SS-02 because it has a replaceable heat resistant silicone nozzle that doesn't melt when it's in touch with the soldering iron and it's more convenient for my hand. In case you're wondering I've removed a power header with that one too and never had a problem.

There is another option called "desoldering needles" but I'm not familiar with these yet. Google is your friend here..

Some desoldering techniques:

https://vimeo.com/95181274
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Chrutil
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Chrutil » Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:57 pm

If you plan to desolder a lot, or need to "nondestructively desolder multi-legged components" (like removing ICs without breaking them) then I definitely recommend a desoldering gun (I have a Hakko FR-301 and couldn't be happier with it).
If you are trying to use desoldering braid to remove components but can't get solder out of the holes, etc, then the solution is usually to use a flux pen to add flux to the braid - and sometimes add a bit of extra solder *and* more flux and try again.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by mrand » Thu Jan 30, 2020 8:03 pm

And don't for get to stock up on cuss words.
--ssdp--

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by jimfowler » Thu Jan 30, 2020 9:48 pm

I have a spring-loaded sucker and a Pace desoldering iron. I'm not exactly sure why I haven't thrown the spring-loaded thing away yet because there is no comparison. If you're gonna do a lot of component removal a proper desoldering handpiece is essential.

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khakifridge
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by khakifridge » Fri Jan 31, 2020 3:45 am

Cheap option: heat up the pad and push a wooden cocktail stick through.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by ClausF » Fri Jan 31, 2020 4:18 am

I was not happy with a non electric desoldering pump, I have to hold the iron and heat and I have to hold the pump and press it - what is impossible when you have two left hands with 10 thumbs. :-(
I was also not happy with a desoldering station - for some reason it did not work for me :-(
Don't ask me about this plaited copper wire for desoldering - a total fail for me :-(
The electric pump from the first message here cured all my desoldering problems, somebody made this for me. Mine was a bit above 10€ at Amazon.

People may have told you: you have to put more solder on it first, to let the old solder flow. (There is also a "flux-pen" available but I nver tried that). Then heat with pressed pump and clack - works. At least for me.

If you have solder in a hole after desoldering I use the follwing trick: I heat it with the iron and put a fixing pin (the ones with the colored head) into it and move it a bit. These things are from steel and don't get soldered very well and moving helps too, so the hole is free from solder after that.

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pricklyrobot
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by pricklyrobot » Fri Jan 31, 2020 1:00 pm

I used to really hate de-soldering, then I discovered Chip Quik, bought a cheap plug-in desoldering pump (looks like it’s the generic knock off of the one you posted above. $20 on EBay), and a cheap ($20-ish as well, I think...) pair of Hot Tweezers (the reviews all said “not so good for soldering, but good enough for desoldering”, and that’s all I use it for anyway) for SMT stuff.
And now I don’t mind de-soldering. If you’re doing more complex or higher volume stuff, it’s probably worth investing in nicer gear. But for me, an occasional DIY-er, a few cheap items (electric de-solder pump included) really made my life easier :tu:

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SyndieBot2000XL
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by SyndieBot2000XL » Fri Jan 31, 2020 1:11 pm

I thought desoldering braid was a scam until I learned to put some extra flux on it.

Also, snipping the braid at an angle so you can get the edge directly into the hole, or pressing down on the center of the braid with a flat side of the iron - as needed.

If you have a tip with a large flat surface on one side, that can be hugely helpful.

And make sure you’re regularly scouring your iron’s tip. Oxidization doesn’t do any favors for transferring the heat.
It began as a mistake.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by plushterry » Fri Jan 31, 2020 1:36 pm

Clamp the PCB in a vice, have the soldering iron on one side, a normal desoldering pump on the other side. Hold the pump tight over the pad you're working on, put the iron on the other side of the same pad, when it melts, press the button on the pump.

As someone has already mentioned, a bit of fresh solder can help a lot.

It's definitely not difficult if you setup properly. I have a £2 desoldering pump, so no fancy equipment required.

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mattip
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by mattip » Sat Feb 01, 2020 4:15 am

I have had good luck with a cheap spring loaded desoldering iron like that on through hole components. Cleans out the hole pretty good. Paid €15 for it. I suppose it won't hold up for a lot of work.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Yellow » Sat Feb 01, 2020 4:29 am

acinonyx wrote:
Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:31 pm

Engineer SS-02
Would recommend this one too

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carynrich
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by carynrich » Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:53 am

plushterry wrote:
Fri Jan 31, 2020 1:36 pm
Clamp the PCB in a vice, have the soldering iron on one side, a normal desoldering pump on the other side. Hold the pump tight over the pad you're working on, put the iron on the other side of the same pad, when it melts, press the button on the pump.

As someone has already mentioned, a bit of fresh solder can help a lot.

It's definitely not difficult if you setup properly. I have a £2 desoldering pump, so no fancy equipment required.
This method works the best for me, especially on the real stubborn ones. Clamping a PCB is an extra step, so I try to heat and suck first on the same side without clamping, if that doesn’t get it all out, then I resort to the clamping method.

I have a hakko desoldering iron too but I don’t use it as much as I thought I would.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by fuzzbass » Sat Feb 01, 2020 9:48 am

If you have a light workload, you should be able to get by using wick and chisel point tip. If you are gentle and don't keep the heat on too long, you should be able to restore pads to new appearance and function after cleanup with alcohol. Keeping time under heat to a minimum is especially important on single sided boards and smd pads, where there are no through hole grommets.

As noted above, get a flux pen and use it to add flux to your braid. Cheap ebay braid with added flux is better than top line Chemtronics braid without added flux. Chemtronics braid has more surface area, and is superior with added flux. Flux improves affinity for solder to copper, and affinity leads to wicking. But wicking won't start if there is an air gap, so add solder to the work to fill space and to create a thermal bond with the braid and the solder in the hole. Cut your braid to meet the work, and bring the flat side of the tip down to sandwich the braid. Sometimes a little bead of solder on your iron will get the wicking action going quicker.

When you are trying to draw solder out of a through hole, its not unusual to take multiple passes. One way pads get lifted is if the heat is on there too long. When your braid finds the solder to wick up, you will see it quickly move up the braid. If this does not happen quickly, back off, add more solder or more flux, and try again. I typically perform desoldering at 625f/330c.

All that being said, the Hakko desoldering gun is an absolute joy to work with.
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by äggmedskägg » Sun Feb 02, 2020 7:29 am

KillWill wrote:
Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:00 pm
Looking around at Amazon, would something like this do the trick, quickly and easily removing the remaining solder from inside the pin holes?:
Because I damaged a circuit board recently, I just ordered exactly one of those a few days ago. If you can hang on a week I can do some tests. I figured it was cheap enough to be worth a try. If I ever need to desolder something with many legs again, I'll probably get something with a pump. Maybe one of the Hakko's everyone is raving about. Then I can do a shootout. 8-)

I would claim my video is a warning against the claims of "just use a soldering wick to get things out of the holes". That didn't work for me. But I'm a clumsy amateur, so what do I know. The "sucker on one side, iron on the other" sounds like a much better idea.


KillWill
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by KillWill » Sun Feb 02, 2020 2:43 pm

Well there's a lot of great info in here, thanks a lot people!

I ended up ordering the electric desoldering pump, but it won't be here for over a week so I went at with pretty much all these suggestions. The one that worked out the best here was a push-pin (thanks ClausF!).

Unfortunately, and this is what I was most worried about, I spent too long on some of these and at least one pad is lifted. See the pic.
IMG_20200202_132747-01.jpeg
I looked it up. If I'm not mistaken, basically I need to find the trace, scrape it down with a razor, add an old scrap lead and some solder to create a new pad?

I actually feel bad for the board, but I am learning a lot; so thanks again all who've contributed.
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Graham Hinton
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Graham Hinton » Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:13 pm

acinonyx wrote:
Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:31 pm
Engineer SS-02
I looked at this because I love their Neji-saurus pliers, and thought just a minute, the only difference with this is really just the silicone tip. So I looked at various silicone tubing and found it is normally rated for 200 degC max. Presumably that's why they supply spare lengths. Then I thought why not try a Hellermann sleeve? So I cut an H30 in half and slipped it over the nozzle of an old PTFE tipped sucker and it worked brilliantly. Better than my Weller desoldering station in fact.

Also there is a very good reason why solder suckers have a guard around the plunger: you tend to get in close to see what you a doing when desoldering and one like the SS-01 or SS-02 could lose you an eye when you press the button!
Last edited by Graham Hinton on Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Graham Hinton » Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:15 pm

[bad edit]
Last edited by Graham Hinton on Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Graham Hinton » Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:16 pm

[bad edit]

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Mochi_Stryper
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Mochi_Stryper » Mon Feb 03, 2020 12:03 am

KillWill wrote:
Sun Feb 02, 2020 2:43 pm
I looked it up. If I'm not mistaken, basically I need to find the trace, scrape it down with a razor, add an old scrap lead and some solder to create a new pad?
Heck, if both of those pins are connected to the same power rail, then you might be able to just bridge the power rail to the adjacent pin (the power one, not the ground one!) with a blob of solder. It would help to reduce impedance, but it shouldn't be too problematic to just leave it be. If you scrape away the trace, then you'll have to be careful not to scrape soldermask from the ground plane, greatly increasing the probability of generating a short.

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by SynthBaron » Mon Feb 03, 2020 12:26 am

Re-flowing the solder joint with a dab of new solder and then using some good name brand wick has worked better than any manual or electric (Hakko) de-soldering pump I've tried over the years.


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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Grumble » Mon Feb 03, 2020 2:08 am

DSC_0114.JPG
DSC_0115.JPG
The next best thing 😄👍🏻
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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by xonetacular » Mon Feb 03, 2020 2:39 am

Graham Hinton wrote:
Sun Feb 02, 2020 6:13 pm
Also there is a very good reason why solder suckers have a guard around the plunger: you tend to get in close to see what you a doing when desoldering and one like the SS-01 or SS-02 could lose you an eye when you press the button!
Sounds like another good reason why you should be wearing safety glasses when desoldering. :miley:

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Re: Desoldering pump, electric, necessary?

Post by Duga-3 » Wed Feb 05, 2020 5:26 am

Grumble wrote:
Mon Feb 03, 2020 2:08 am
DSC_0114.JPG
Nice SMT storage idea :yay: Where did you get them?

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