Front Panel Proof Reading Thread

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av500
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Post by av500 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 4:02 pm

EATyourGUITAR wrote:I can't do bold text in eagle so it is what it is. I might add some light pipes later around the sequential switch to show what jacks are currently linked.
you can change the "ratio" value of the text, this will make it look "thicker"

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Post by batchas » Thu Feb 23, 2017 12:57 am

sempervirent wrote:That symmetrical layout does look better, good eye batchas
:tu:

Next time I'll install a tool like inkscape or whatever with layers on this new computer to make this kind of things. A grid is done so fast, it's a bit a shame nothing is aligned and done quick and dirty. But yeah, the goal was to show another approach is possible. I prefer when the patching is intuitive, with clean overview.
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indigoid
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Post by indigoid » Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:57 pm

Made a triple panel to go with my CGS39 PCB layout. The dots indicate which pair of inputs feed associate with each output gate. Smaller holes are for LEDs. I'm somewhat concerned that the LEDs might make it hard to see the dots so will make sure they're not too bright.

A bit of sanding will clean up the scorch marks. My first time lasercutting 1.5mm bamboo (my previous panels have all been 2.5mm) and I clearly need to tweak the laser settings a bit.

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Post by bonzai » Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:23 pm

My most recent try on the Yusynth Minimoog filter for Euro - I'm actually kinda happy with the result (toner transfer + acrylic lacquer), but does anyone spot the error I made? I did not until it was assembled and (well, almost) ready to go... :doh:

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Post by big job head » Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:41 am

Hi,
Here is my first panel design. As i'm a big make noise fan and really dislike the front panel of my PEG i decided to give him a new look.
Made on illustrator and with lazertran laser sheets.
Image

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paperCUT
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Post by paperCUT » Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:57 am

bonzai wrote:My most recent try on the Yusynth Minimoog filter for Euro - I'm actually kinda happy with the result (toner transfer + acrylic lacquer), but does anyone spot the error I made? I did not until it was assembled and (well, almost) ready to go... :doh:

Image
Are the bottom jacks a bit too close to the rail? Looks nice either way 8-)

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Post by bonzai » Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:16 am

@paperCUT: 100 Points for you! 8-) 2mm too deep, d'oh...

@big job head: what kind of lazertran foil did you use? Waterslide? Looks really professional! :)

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Post by big job head » Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:44 am

@big job head: what kind of lazertran foil did you use? Waterslide? Looks really professional! smile
yep it's waterslide paper for laserjet printer, baked for 2 hours so it melt with the front panel and become almost scratchproof.
i'll do more module and share the illustrator files for those who want to "make-noisify" there panels. Next will probably be the korga II :mrgreen:

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Post by Sunden » Mon Oct 30, 2017 12:54 am

Image

Designing a panel for someone's pcb. 2x 1:4 attenuverters and 2x 3:1 Unity mixers.

Eurorack. Intellijel small skirted knobs. 12hp. thonkiconn/same pots as mutable.[/img]

First time designing a panel from scratch.

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indigoid
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Post by indigoid » Mon Oct 30, 2017 2:38 am

does the unity mixer emit the mixed input signals inverted?

I suspect a few people might infer that from the way the lines cross over.

Or maybe not. Just me?
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Post by Sunden » Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:01 pm

It does not invert the signals - I'll probably leave it for consistency with the top panel, unless some others think it's misleading?

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:28 pm

2 questions:

First:

How do I go about mirror imaging things?

I'd like to save myself a lot of trouble by developing only one side of this panel, then adding a mirrored "other side" to it, so as to create a single panel that looks just like what you see in the mock up?

Said another way, this is an 8 space MU panel, how would I only do the 4 spaces on (let's say) the left side, then add the right hand 4 spaces in mirror image to end up with what you see in the mocked up layout here?

Image

If I did that, I know I'd have to leave out the switch in the very center (shown as just a flat washer in the mock up), but that would be easy enough to add after I got the whole thing done up.


Second:


How do I add width to a panel to each side? If I created a (let's say) 4 space panel, and wanted to add 2 spaces to each side so as not to disturb the components from their center-relative positions, how would I go about doing that?

Say I wanted to expand this panel (below) by 6.675", but add only half of that to each side of the existing panel? So adding 3.375" to each side so that everything already on it remains in their center-relative locations?

Image



Image



Thanks! :tu:
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Rex Coil 7
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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:17 pm

So I think I've discovered it ...

Create a group (define the group .... drill holes, rectangular cutouts, etc..). Then select "mirror". And then perhaps "move"?
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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:29 pm

And ... to add width to a panel to each side, change size, but first place the "anchor" in the center.

Damn!
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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Thu Nov 16, 2017 2:01 pm

Combined module panel, all Dot Com circuits. Please look for errors. My very first effort using FPD, so I'm expecting mistakes.

8 spaces of MU/5U, 3mm thick, 16.9900" wide x 8.75" tall.

The switches ("SW") take advantage of jumper link options.

1) Q147 signal distributor. Sends a single input signal (the VCO mix) and spreads it out among the two filters. A 3rd channel ("ALT") completely bypasses both filters, and goes right around them ending up at the "ALT" output mixer on the opposite side of the panel. There's also a "send" and "return" jack to be located in one of the 1.5mm thick jack field subpanels. That way a copy of the VCO mix may be sent outboard for processing in some other filter/wavefolder/cloud-thingy/everwhat and then returned back into the signal mix just before the "ALT" output mixer channel.

2) Q107 VCF. A state variable filter.

3) Q162 State Output Mixer. This is actually just another one of the Dot Com mixer PCBs that is connected properly to the state outputs of the Q107. It's output is normalized to a "SERIES/PARALLEL" switch (marked "SERIES") that will route the output of this mixer either into the Q150's input, or bypass the Q150 and route the signal directly to the output mixer at the far right of the panel to a channel marked "Q107".

4) Q150 Transistor Ladder Filter. Yup. That's what it is. Output normalized to it's channel on the output mixer, knob marked "Q150".

5) Output mixer. It's output is the last thing in the entire signal chain of this multi-circuit panel.

"TE" = Technical Earth, it's a 1/4" x 28tpi stud (2 of them) to connect the jack shield terminals too and permit TE interconnection with other panels and modules. This will ultimately end up at a "master TE" termination someplace nearby the mains input, where it will be tied to the grounding pin on the mains input. Just a bit of insurance, I don't like relying on only the jack barrels for the shield.

The Jack Fields will host a number of "SEND" and "RETURN" jacks which permit breaking into the normalized connections, no different than the input and output jacks of the individual modules used in this panel. These sub panels are 1.5mm thick, so as to be able to allow the use of 3.5mm jacks if so desired. I use flat washers on 3.5mm jacks, that said, they won't fit on 3mm thick panels with flat washers. Hence, the 1/16" sub panels.

Those Jack Field panels will also host all of the CV input jacks for the various CV signal inputs for the two filters. I've used this Jack Field panel idea because it permits me to change things if I choose to. They're also like little safety nets in the event that I forgot to put something, some feature, some switch on the main panel. Those panels are easily replaced with other panels, and will allow me to avoid having to drill more holes into the main panel.

Obviously, as you can see, I had to change the fonts and point sizes of various lettering graphics, even eliminating some words. When I checked the price of the one with the large graphics, it was just short of $180 bucks!

So I went back, changed things around, making sure to select point sizes and font types to avoid tool changes, and also realized that I could go with 14 point fonts instead of 0.374" letters (I didn't realize how BIG I had made the lettering)!

Cost landed at $98.26. Raw aluminum, black infilled lettering.

QUESTION REGARDING LETTERING:


I have been thinking about using raw aluminum with black infilled letters, and then wet sanding the panel and applying clear coat when the panel arrives.

I've also been considering having the letters done with no infill, and then filling them myself, and wet sanding off the excess. I just don't know how ~deeply~ the engraving is?

Has anyone tried that before? Is the engraving deep enough to allow painting the panel and wet sanding off the unwanted paint leaving only the engraved lettering filled with black letters? Then applying clear coat after wards (obviously).

Thanks!


Here's a "legend" screen grab. If it doesn't say "SW" (switch), then it's a knob.

Image


Rear panel shot, to make sure the Jack Field panels don't interfere with anything. The Jack Field panels are at their full size in this screen grab.


Image




Finalized Panel (smaller letters, and less of them). I figured that I know it's a Q107 and a Q150, so no need to put that on the panel. I may put an "ARRICK ROBOTICS" graphic back on it though, seems only fair to Roger and all of his hard work. After all, it would only cost a few dollars more. I used "Stencil, 1 stroke" at 14 points for most of the characters. All of the characters use the same engraving tool, so only 1 tool change for the entire panel!



Image


Thank you!
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Neutron7
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Post by Neutron7 » Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:14 pm

Image

this is a pcbpanel for my "hexagone" polyphonic synth (yes its a poly orgone & friends :)

it would have an aluminium panel option as well, which would likely be quite a bit different, this is more for general understandability of the controls.

removed fuxxy pic, ill try and get a better one

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Post by L.C.O. » Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:19 am

Does anyone have an Illustrator file with line-work sized for the euro front panels?
(OR is there a resource where such files can be downloaded?)

I am looking specifically for 2, 3, 4, 6HP panel sizes.

My thinking is that before I start the trial and error, I should check, since, obviously people have already done this, had a chance to cut and verify the sizes etc.

I am aiming to get things laser cut.
If you have any of the above HP sizes, (Or any HP size really), and are willing to share: I would greatly appreciate that.

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Post by PWM » Fri Jan 12, 2018 8:49 am

There's a table on this Doepfer page.
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm

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Post by _arch » Sat Mar 10, 2018 9:31 am

Before i send my order at Schaeffer for this classic, any comments more than welcome

Image

For those who may wonder, H.S. are my initial and i'm rather skinny hence the name:-)

Thanks

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Post by cretaceousear » Sat Mar 10, 2018 10:22 am

@ _arch:
Do you really need the mains cable input there ?
Could you move it to the side - it will have a big ugly old cable coming straight out and will get in the way. (I'm no fan of absolute authenticity).

I can't recall if they used Helvetica.. sorry former graphic designer here and bored with Helvetica - it doesn't look great on panels for me, but I guess you're too far down the road on that!

Envious though!
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Post by ashleym » Sat Mar 10, 2018 12:57 pm

No they didn’t

https://tonetweakers.com/products/ems-synthi-a-muse

The future wasn’t Helvetica. Shaeffer don’t offer too many typefaces as standard

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Post by _arch » Sat Mar 10, 2018 1:27 pm

Actually, it's not Helvetica but Univers, the difference is subtle though and i will probably stick with it. I will go for printing and not engraving at Shaeffer's, it allows more font possibilities (and it's cheaper)

This panel (and the whole synth) is intended to be installed in the lid of a Halliburton 21x17 zero case so i can't really move the AC main plug on the lid's wall without more or less butchering the case.

A friend of mine spotted a mistake on the left hand mute toggle switch and the sample and hold section needs to be seriously modified. i will update the picture when done

Edit - Updated

Image

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Post by cretaceousear » Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:04 pm

Looks like the original Synthi is letterspaced Univers Expanded - a lot different in feel from the bog standard font! Could you add some letterspacing?

There's right angled mains lead plugs isn't there - so should the socket be turned 180 degrees?
:hmm: I think the ones I've seen are right angled sideways?
..the vessel was heavier because “dead sheep do not have the same weight as the live ones”

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Post by batchas » Sun Mar 11, 2018 2:38 pm

_arch wrote:A friend of mine spotted a mistake on the left hand mute toggle switch and the sample and hold section needs to be seriously modified. i will update the picture when done
Pers. I’d put „reverb“ a bit to the right (more space between arrow and reverb, but also between 10 and arrow to have same spacing as arrow and 0. It's the way I'd do, but it does not mean someone sees it like I do.
Image

I’d say these 4 are not horiz. aligned and not straight (I don't know the right term but it looksl ike a tiny rotation in the first 2).
Image

Consistency: you put points after „env“ or „ch“ but not after „“ext“. („mod“ is ok of course). I know it can sound stupid, but as it’s about proof reading, I allow me to mention it. Or maybe it simply like this on the original? Like S&H with so much distance in between. Not so important anyway.

Maybe I'm too tired right now, but like for the 4 things not aligned I mentionned earlier, I also see all pot markings looking a (tiny) bit turned to the left. Not sure actually... An impression of a kind of inbalance somewhere... Like the 2 for instance at the bottom in the middle. Might have spent too much time today in front of the screen tbh, but worth checking everything with guides.
Image

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Post by _arch » Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:34 pm

@ batchas : thanks for the comments, i 've corrected many misalignments and add dots where missing, now it seems i'm ok for ordering
Cheers!

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