you can change the "ratio" value of the text, this will make it look "thicker"EATyourGUITAR wrote:I can't do bold text in eagle so it is what it is. I might add some light pipes later around the sequential switch to show what jacks are currently linked.
Front Panel Proof Reading Thread
Moderators: Kent, luketeaford, Joe., lisa
sempervirent wrote:That symmetrical layout does look better, good eye batchas

Next time I'll install a tool like inkscape or whatever with layers on this new computer to make this kind of things. A grid is done so fast, it's a bit a shame nothing is aligned and done quick and dirty. But yeah, the goal was to show another approach is possible. I prefer when the patching is intuitive, with clean overview.
-----------------------------------
FS: KESAKO Player & Reverb for Serge and Buchla
FS: KESAKO Player & Reverb for Serge and Buchla
- indigoid
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 1294
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2014 7:52 pm
- Location: Sydney, Australia
Made a triple panel to go with my CGS39 PCB layout. The dots indicate which pair of inputs feed associate with each output gate. Smaller holes are for LEDs. I'm somewhat concerned that the LEDs might make it hard to see the dots so will make sure they're not too bright.
A bit of sanding will clean up the scorch marks. My first time lasercutting 1.5mm bamboo (my previous panels have all been 2.5mm) and I clearly need to tweak the laser settings a bit.

A bit of sanding will clean up the scorch marks. My first time lasercutting 1.5mm bamboo (my previous panels have all been 2.5mm) and I clearly need to tweak the laser settings a bit.

Zap him again! ZAP THE SONOFABITCH AGAIN!
- big job head
- Common Wiggler
- Posts: 127
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- Location: France
- Contact:
Are the bottom jacks a bit too close to the rail? Looks nice either waybonzai wrote:My most recent try on the Yusynth Minimoog filter for Euro - I'm actually kinda happy with the result (toner transfer + acrylic lacquer), but does anyone spot the error I made? I did not until it was assembled and (well, almost) ready to go...![]()

- big job head
- Common Wiggler
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- Contact:
yep it's waterslide paper for laserjet printer, baked for 2 hours so it melt with the front panel and become almost scratchproof.@big job head: what kind of lazertran foil did you use? Waterslide? Looks really professional! smile
i'll do more module and share the illustrator files for those who want to "make-noisify" there panels. Next will probably be the korga II

- Rex Coil 7
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 7313
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:29 am
- Location: Captain Of Outer Space
2 questions:
First:
How do I go about mirror imaging things?
I'd like to save myself a lot of trouble by developing only one side of this panel, then adding a mirrored "other side" to it, so as to create a single panel that looks just like what you see in the mock up?
Said another way, this is an 8 space MU panel, how would I only do the 4 spaces on (let's say) the left side, then add the right hand 4 spaces in mirror image to end up with what you see in the mocked up layout here?

If I did that, I know I'd have to leave out the switch in the very center (shown as just a flat washer in the mock up), but that would be easy enough to add after I got the whole thing done up.
Second:
How do I add width to a panel to each side? If I created a (let's say) 4 space panel, and wanted to add 2 spaces to each side so as not to disturb the components from their center-relative positions, how would I go about doing that?
Say I wanted to expand this panel (below) by 6.675", but add only half of that to each side of the existing panel? So adding 3.375" to each side so that everything already on it remains in their center-relative locations?


Thanks!
First:
How do I go about mirror imaging things?
I'd like to save myself a lot of trouble by developing only one side of this panel, then adding a mirrored "other side" to it, so as to create a single panel that looks just like what you see in the mock up?
Said another way, this is an 8 space MU panel, how would I only do the 4 spaces on (let's say) the left side, then add the right hand 4 spaces in mirror image to end up with what you see in the mocked up layout here?

If I did that, I know I'd have to leave out the switch in the very center (shown as just a flat washer in the mock up), but that would be easy enough to add after I got the whole thing done up.
Second:
How do I add width to a panel to each side? If I created a (let's say) 4 space panel, and wanted to add 2 spaces to each side so as not to disturb the components from their center-relative positions, how would I go about doing that?
Say I wanted to expand this panel (below) by 6.675", but add only half of that to each side of the existing panel? So adding 3.375" to each side so that everything already on it remains in their center-relative locations?


Thanks!

5U MODULAR NORMALIZING PROJECT (for your entertainment) viewtopic.php?t=78836&highlight=
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
- Rex Coil 7
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 7313
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:29 am
- Location: Captain Of Outer Space
So I think I've discovered it ...
Create a group (define the group .... drill holes, rectangular cutouts, etc..). Then select "mirror". And then perhaps "move"?
Create a group (define the group .... drill holes, rectangular cutouts, etc..). Then select "mirror". And then perhaps "move"?
5U MODULAR NORMALIZING PROJECT (for your entertainment) viewtopic.php?t=78836&highlight=
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
- Rex Coil 7
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 7313
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:29 am
- Location: Captain Of Outer Space
And ... to add width to a panel to each side, change size, but first place the "anchor" in the center.
Damn!
Damn!
5U MODULAR NORMALIZING PROJECT (for your entertainment) viewtopic.php?t=78836&highlight=
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
- Rex Coil 7
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 7313
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:29 am
- Location: Captain Of Outer Space
Combined module panel, all Dot Com circuits. Please look for errors. My very first effort using FPD, so I'm expecting mistakes.
8 spaces of MU/5U, 3mm thick, 16.9900" wide x 8.75" tall.
The switches ("SW") take advantage of jumper link options.
1) Q147 signal distributor. Sends a single input signal (the VCO mix) and spreads it out among the two filters. A 3rd channel ("ALT") completely bypasses both filters, and goes right around them ending up at the "ALT" output mixer on the opposite side of the panel. There's also a "send" and "return" jack to be located in one of the 1.5mm thick jack field subpanels. That way a copy of the VCO mix may be sent outboard for processing in some other filter/wavefolder/cloud-thingy/everwhat and then returned back into the signal mix just before the "ALT" output mixer channel.
2) Q107 VCF. A state variable filter.
3) Q162 State Output Mixer. This is actually just another one of the Dot Com mixer PCBs that is connected properly to the state outputs of the Q107. It's output is normalized to a "SERIES/PARALLEL" switch (marked "SERIES") that will route the output of this mixer either into the Q150's input, or bypass the Q150 and route the signal directly to the output mixer at the far right of the panel to a channel marked "Q107".
4) Q150 Transistor Ladder Filter. Yup. That's what it is. Output normalized to it's channel on the output mixer, knob marked "Q150".
5) Output mixer. It's output is the last thing in the entire signal chain of this multi-circuit panel.
"TE" = Technical Earth, it's a 1/4" x 28tpi stud (2 of them) to connect the jack shield terminals too and permit TE interconnection with other panels and modules. This will ultimately end up at a "master TE" termination someplace nearby the mains input, where it will be tied to the grounding pin on the mains input. Just a bit of insurance, I don't like relying on only the jack barrels for the shield.
The Jack Fields will host a number of "SEND" and "RETURN" jacks which permit breaking into the normalized connections, no different than the input and output jacks of the individual modules used in this panel. These sub panels are 1.5mm thick, so as to be able to allow the use of 3.5mm jacks if so desired. I use flat washers on 3.5mm jacks, that said, they won't fit on 3mm thick panels with flat washers. Hence, the 1/16" sub panels.
Those Jack Field panels will also host all of the CV input jacks for the various CV signal inputs for the two filters. I've used this Jack Field panel idea because it permits me to change things if I choose to. They're also like little safety nets in the event that I forgot to put something, some feature, some switch on the main panel. Those panels are easily replaced with other panels, and will allow me to avoid having to drill more holes into the main panel.
Obviously, as you can see, I had to change the fonts and point sizes of various lettering graphics, even eliminating some words. When I checked the price of the one with the large graphics, it was just short of $180 bucks!
So I went back, changed things around, making sure to select point sizes and font types to avoid tool changes, and also realized that I could go with 14 point fonts instead of 0.374" letters (I didn't realize how BIG I had made the lettering)!
Cost landed at $98.26. Raw aluminum, black infilled lettering.
QUESTION REGARDING LETTERING:
I have been thinking about using raw aluminum with black infilled letters, and then wet sanding the panel and applying clear coat when the panel arrives.
I've also been considering having the letters done with no infill, and then filling them myself, and wet sanding off the excess. I just don't know how ~deeply~ the engraving is?
Has anyone tried that before? Is the engraving deep enough to allow painting the panel and wet sanding off the unwanted paint leaving only the engraved lettering filled with black letters? Then applying clear coat after wards (obviously).
Thanks!
Here's a "legend" screen grab. If it doesn't say "SW" (switch), then it's a knob.

Rear panel shot, to make sure the Jack Field panels don't interfere with anything. The Jack Field panels are at their full size in this screen grab.

Finalized Panel (smaller letters, and less of them). I figured that I know it's a Q107 and a Q150, so no need to put that on the panel. I may put an "ARRICK ROBOTICS" graphic back on it though, seems only fair to Roger and all of his hard work. After all, it would only cost a few dollars more. I used "Stencil, 1 stroke" at 14 points for most of the characters. All of the characters use the same engraving tool, so only 1 tool change for the entire panel!

Thank you!
8 spaces of MU/5U, 3mm thick, 16.9900" wide x 8.75" tall.
The switches ("SW") take advantage of jumper link options.
1) Q147 signal distributor. Sends a single input signal (the VCO mix) and spreads it out among the two filters. A 3rd channel ("ALT") completely bypasses both filters, and goes right around them ending up at the "ALT" output mixer on the opposite side of the panel. There's also a "send" and "return" jack to be located in one of the 1.5mm thick jack field subpanels. That way a copy of the VCO mix may be sent outboard for processing in some other filter/wavefolder/cloud-thingy/everwhat and then returned back into the signal mix just before the "ALT" output mixer channel.
2) Q107 VCF. A state variable filter.
3) Q162 State Output Mixer. This is actually just another one of the Dot Com mixer PCBs that is connected properly to the state outputs of the Q107. It's output is normalized to a "SERIES/PARALLEL" switch (marked "SERIES") that will route the output of this mixer either into the Q150's input, or bypass the Q150 and route the signal directly to the output mixer at the far right of the panel to a channel marked "Q107".
4) Q150 Transistor Ladder Filter. Yup. That's what it is. Output normalized to it's channel on the output mixer, knob marked "Q150".
5) Output mixer. It's output is the last thing in the entire signal chain of this multi-circuit panel.
"TE" = Technical Earth, it's a 1/4" x 28tpi stud (2 of them) to connect the jack shield terminals too and permit TE interconnection with other panels and modules. This will ultimately end up at a "master TE" termination someplace nearby the mains input, where it will be tied to the grounding pin on the mains input. Just a bit of insurance, I don't like relying on only the jack barrels for the shield.
The Jack Fields will host a number of "SEND" and "RETURN" jacks which permit breaking into the normalized connections, no different than the input and output jacks of the individual modules used in this panel. These sub panels are 1.5mm thick, so as to be able to allow the use of 3.5mm jacks if so desired. I use flat washers on 3.5mm jacks, that said, they won't fit on 3mm thick panels with flat washers. Hence, the 1/16" sub panels.
Those Jack Field panels will also host all of the CV input jacks for the various CV signal inputs for the two filters. I've used this Jack Field panel idea because it permits me to change things if I choose to. They're also like little safety nets in the event that I forgot to put something, some feature, some switch on the main panel. Those panels are easily replaced with other panels, and will allow me to avoid having to drill more holes into the main panel.
Obviously, as you can see, I had to change the fonts and point sizes of various lettering graphics, even eliminating some words. When I checked the price of the one with the large graphics, it was just short of $180 bucks!
So I went back, changed things around, making sure to select point sizes and font types to avoid tool changes, and also realized that I could go with 14 point fonts instead of 0.374" letters (I didn't realize how BIG I had made the lettering)!
Cost landed at $98.26. Raw aluminum, black infilled lettering.
QUESTION REGARDING LETTERING:
I have been thinking about using raw aluminum with black infilled letters, and then wet sanding the panel and applying clear coat when the panel arrives.
I've also been considering having the letters done with no infill, and then filling them myself, and wet sanding off the excess. I just don't know how ~deeply~ the engraving is?
Has anyone tried that before? Is the engraving deep enough to allow painting the panel and wet sanding off the unwanted paint leaving only the engraved lettering filled with black letters? Then applying clear coat after wards (obviously).
Thanks!
Here's a "legend" screen grab. If it doesn't say "SW" (switch), then it's a knob.

Rear panel shot, to make sure the Jack Field panels don't interfere with anything. The Jack Field panels are at their full size in this screen grab.

Finalized Panel (smaller letters, and less of them). I figured that I know it's a Q107 and a Q150, so no need to put that on the panel. I may put an "ARRICK ROBOTICS" graphic back on it though, seems only fair to Roger and all of his hard work. After all, it would only cost a few dollars more. I used "Stencil, 1 stroke" at 14 points for most of the characters. All of the characters use the same engraving tool, so only 1 tool change for the entire panel!

Thank you!
5U MODULAR NORMALIZING PROJECT (for your entertainment) viewtopic.php?t=78836&highlight=
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
.. as of Dec 8th 2020 on a break for a bit .. contact me via bamco60@hotmail.com if needed.
WELCOME TO 2021 .. THE BEATINGS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL MORALE IMPROVES.
Does anyone have an Illustrator file with line-work sized for the euro front panels?
(OR is there a resource where such files can be downloaded?)
I am looking specifically for 2, 3, 4, 6HP panel sizes.
My thinking is that before I start the trial and error, I should check, since, obviously people have already done this, had a chance to cut and verify the sizes etc.
I am aiming to get things laser cut.
If you have any of the above HP sizes, (Or any HP size really), and are willing to share: I would greatly appreciate that.
(OR is there a resource where such files can be downloaded?)
I am looking specifically for 2, 3, 4, 6HP panel sizes.
My thinking is that before I start the trial and error, I should check, since, obviously people have already done this, had a chance to cut and verify the sizes etc.
I am aiming to get things laser cut.
If you have any of the above HP sizes, (Or any HP size really), and are willing to share: I would greatly appreciate that.
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- PWM
- Ultra Wiggler
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 6:08 pm
- Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
- Contact:
There's a table on this Doepfer page.
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm
- cretaceousear
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 2476
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 10:01 am
- Location: Suburbia, London
@ _arch:
Do you really need the mains cable input there ?
Could you move it to the side - it will have a big ugly old cable coming straight out and will get in the way. (I'm no fan of absolute authenticity).
I can't recall if they used Helvetica.. sorry former graphic designer here and bored with Helvetica - it doesn't look great on panels for me, but I guess you're too far down the road on that!
Envious though!
Do you really need the mains cable input there ?
Could you move it to the side - it will have a big ugly old cable coming straight out and will get in the way. (I'm no fan of absolute authenticity).
I can't recall if they used Helvetica.. sorry former graphic designer here and bored with Helvetica - it doesn't look great on panels for me, but I guess you're too far down the road on that!
Envious though!
Substance has had promising results in ferrets, researchers have revealed.
No they didn’t
https://tonetweakers.com/products/ems-synthi-a-muse
The future wasn’t Helvetica. Shaeffer don’t offer too many typefaces as standard
https://tonetweakers.com/products/ems-synthi-a-muse
The future wasn’t Helvetica. Shaeffer don’t offer too many typefaces as standard
-
- Learning to Wiggle
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:21 am
- Location: between the cat ant the rabbit
Actually, it's not Helvetica but Univers, the difference is subtle though and i will probably stick with it. I will go for printing and not engraving at Shaeffer's, it allows more font possibilities (and it's cheaper)
This panel (and the whole synth) is intended to be installed in the lid of a Halliburton 21x17 zero case so i can't really move the AC main plug on the lid's wall without more or less butchering the case.
A friend of mine spotted a mistake on the left hand mute toggle switch and the sample and hold section needs to be seriously modified. i will update the picture when done
Edit - Updated

This panel (and the whole synth) is intended to be installed in the lid of a Halliburton 21x17 zero case so i can't really move the AC main plug on the lid's wall without more or less butchering the case.
A friend of mine spotted a mistake on the left hand mute toggle switch and the sample and hold section needs to be seriously modified. i will update the picture when done
Edit - Updated

- cretaceousear
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 2476
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 10:01 am
- Location: Suburbia, London
Looks like the original Synthi is letterspaced Univers Expanded - a lot different in feel from the bog standard font! Could you add some letterspacing?
There's right angled mains lead plugs isn't there - so should the socket be turned 180 degrees?
I think the ones I've seen are right angled sideways?
There's right angled mains lead plugs isn't there - so should the socket be turned 180 degrees?

Substance has had promising results in ferrets, researchers have revealed.
Pers. I’d put „reverb“ a bit to the right (more space between arrow and reverb, but also between 10 and arrow to have same spacing as arrow and 0. It's the way I'd do, but it does not mean someone sees it like I do._arch wrote:A friend of mine spotted a mistake on the left hand mute toggle switch and the sample and hold section needs to be seriously modified. i will update the picture when done

I’d say these 4 are not horiz. aligned and not straight (I don't know the right term but it looksl ike a tiny rotation in the first 2).

Consistency: you put points after „env“ or „ch“ but not after „“ext“. („mod“ is ok of course). I know it can sound stupid, but as it’s about proof reading, I allow me to mention it. Or maybe it simply like this on the original? Like S&H with so much distance in between. Not so important anyway.
Maybe I'm too tired right now, but like for the 4 things not aligned I mentionned earlier, I also see all pot markings looking a (tiny) bit turned to the left. Not sure actually... An impression of a kind of inbalance somewhere... Like the 2 for instance at the bottom in the middle. Might have spent too much time today in front of the screen tbh, but worth checking everything with guides.
