[IN STOCK] Manual Voltage Processor - 16hp of Euro utility

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roqeja
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Post by roqeja » Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:42 pm

i was away from the desk but i'll take a picture and try to load it up tonight.
FS: Harvestman Tyme Sefari and SOT Mk2, Synthrotek EKO
WTB: LZX VWG, A-198 Ribbon controller, Trigger Riot, Circadian Rhythm, d0, Storage Strip

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roqeja
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Post by roqeja » Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:19 pm

Here we go
ImageImage
FS: Harvestman Tyme Sefari and SOT Mk2, Synthrotek EKO
WTB: LZX VWG, A-198 Ribbon controller, Trigger Riot, Circadian Rhythm, d0, Storage Strip

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LektroiD
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Post by LektroiD » Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:22 am

Boards and panel arrived safely in the UK today. Looking forward to building this one...

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keninverse
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Post by keninverse » Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:14 am

roqeja wrote:Here we go
Are you rotating them so the largest ground bracket fits in the large hole? Referencing the pic on the left: The metal bracket should be facing left with the larger of the two brackets fitting in the larger hole. I'm not 100% positive though. Maybe Jason could illuminate on this better but you may want to check the traces to see where the tip of the jack sits on the PCB.

Also I notice there's some oxidation on the PCB. You may want to use a fiberglass pen/scratcher or scouring pad to remove the oxidation prior to soldering or you'll have a helluva time to get solder to stick.

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LektroiD
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Post by LektroiD » Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:34 am

I'm ready to solder the TL062 SOIC's in this, but no idea of the orientation, as there are no markings on the chips. I posted in a separate thread as I think it deserves a topic of its own, but also relevant here.

viewtopic.php?p=1482535

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spotta
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Post by spotta » Thu Mar 06, 2014 3:21 pm

LektroiD wrote:I'm ready to solder the TL062 SOIC's in this, but no idea of the orientation, as there are no markings on the chips. I posted in a separate thread as I think it deserves a topic of its own, but also relevant here.

viewtopic.php?p=1482535
Check a few posts back to see my mistake, and the correct way ;)
Spotta
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spotta
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Post by spotta » Thu Mar 06, 2014 3:24 pm

roqeja wrote:Here we go
<large image>
They look good to me, check orientation and they tend to go in easiest if you insert at an angle with the thinnest of the two legs without the wire hole first
:tu:
Spotta
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LektroiD
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Post by LektroiD » Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:14 pm

Now for my next question...

Which pots are you guys using? I tried the green Alpha 9mm, the Alps 9mm, but the positioning lugs on neither seem to fit through the holes. I'm wondering if I should snip off the lugs, or if there is a particular pot that I should get instead?
:despair:

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baloo
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Post by baloo » Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:23 pm

I¨ll take one set if available.

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:36 pm

I use the Alphas and bend the pins to fit.

Still plenty of board sets available!

HocuxPocux
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Alternative for the PTC resettable fuse .100 hold.200 trip

Post by HocuxPocux » Sat Mar 29, 2014 3:07 pm

Hello muffwiggler Friends

Two weeks ago I finished building the manhattan analog MVP kit, and right now the last part I need is The PTC resettable fuse .100 hold.200 trip ! (0.1A)

i'm waiting for one that i ordered, and while I'm waiting for the part I managed to find the part only with different data .250 hold .500 trip (0.25A)

My question is if I can use the 0.25A PTC Instead of ?

Thanks in advance for any response.

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:14 pm

That slightly-larger fuse should work OK. If you need to the fuses can be replaced with wire links, either temporarily or permanently. The reverse-voltage protection will still work as long as the diodes are in place. (It's a little less elegant without the fuses.)

HocuxPocux
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Post by HocuxPocux » Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:40 pm

Hi negativspace Thank you for the reply

Ok Tomorrow I will get the larger fuse, Cool that i can use a temporary bridging i'l give it a try now :tu:

Thanks

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Monobass
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Post by Monobass » Tue Apr 01, 2014 3:49 pm

I have MVP panels and PCBs in stock at Thonk now

http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/
Thonk - CLICK HERE - Modular Synth DIY + Eurorack Accessories Store

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xahdrez
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Post by xahdrez » Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:04 pm

So I finished my build of this today, but seem to have cocked something up - any troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated! Here's what's going wrong:

Module functions fine for around 20 seconds (attenuverter LEDs change from red to green when fed bipolar signal, mixer functions across all 4 channels and buffered and passive mults both work) then after 20 seconds the LEDs shift to only showing green at the appropriate parts of a signal and it seems as if the mixer/bufferred mults lose power too. I usually get frustrated and messing about until things start working again (i've already removed the 22pf caps because i didn't like the way they were looking at me....didn't seem to make a difference though....) - so before I make things worse, anyone got an ideas?

Thanks!

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xahdrez
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Post by xahdrez » Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:50 pm

Some blurry pictures if that helps at all! Zooming in on the SMD part, I'm starting to suspect that my attempt to botch it without the appropriate tools might be to blame....
Image
Image[/img]

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Mon Apr 14, 2014 2:12 pm

When it goes to green-only in the LEDs it sounds to me like you're losing the positive rail... check the PTC fuse on the +V side and see if it gets OMGHOT. If so you're drawing too much current on that rail and your problem is somewhere with a +V connection.

One thing I do to troubleshoot these is to plug the power cable into the small PCB without connecting it to the panel PCB. If the fuse still gets hot you know the small board has an issue. If not you know it's something on the panel board.

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xahdrez
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Post by xahdrez » Mon Apr 14, 2014 6:15 pm

Thanks for this - really helpful for the trouble shooting!

So the small board is absolutely fine. With the large board it seems that the 3rd attenuverter is fine too, soon as I plug in 1st of 2nd attenuverter the +V fuse gets super hot. I've not traced the circuit back yet (just couldn't resist a quick test when I got in!) - but I'm guessing this means the its the SMD that handles channels 1 & 2 of the attenuverter? It's pretty messy!!

Will try and clean it up tomorrow night and report back to see if it's salvageable - but I wonder if I didn't damage it faffing around with it already!

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:53 pm

Nothing a replacement SOIC chip shouldn't resolve. I've put 'em in backwards a couple of times and they only harm themselves. :hihi:

The chip on top of the photo above, by the header, drives the LED for channel 1 on the front panel. The other chip (bottom) does 2 and 3. I guess that's pretty evident from the traces...

If it happens when you use the panel jack, check the jack area for issues as well.

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xahdrez
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Post by xahdrez » Mon Apr 21, 2014 12:52 pm

So I've now replaced one of these successfully - unfortunately Farnell send me two different chips (one TL062 and one other random SOIC) so I've got to wait for the second replacement to arrive. All going well though, fired it up with just one in (and the other removed) and no more fuse problems, so hopefully got to the bottom of it. Will post again once the final chip is in - but thanks for the troubleshooting help, very much appreciated!

And for anyone else who hasn't tried surface mount before, don't let this put you off - now I've got a pair of tweezers these are going in no problem!

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Mon Apr 21, 2014 2:39 pm

Glad you're on the right path! Hopefully that last IC solves the issue entirely. :sb:

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Randy
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Post by Randy » Mon Apr 21, 2014 2:54 pm

Just thought I'd ask, and yup, I know, I'm lazy but does anyone have one of these that are already built they want to get rid of?

I'm not really lazy (well, in this case), just not having much luck successfully building stuff lately, and surface mount would add a whole new dimension to the game.

I'm looking at buying some mults, some attenuators and some CV mixers, so the MVP looks like it might be a good alternative to buying everything separately.

Thanks.

Randy

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:03 pm

As a matter of fact I have a spare... I build in 3s and I had 2 on a recent vendor order. If you'd like it it's all yours. (Drop me a PM!)

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Post by Cablebasher » Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:31 am

Hello.

Sorry to be a pain but.....

Could someone look at these PCB standoffs and tell
Me which ones are suitable for this build.

Ive not done any modules that have used them before and I haven't a clue.

http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main ... th=238_240

Thanks. As always...

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Fri Apr 25, 2014 3:01 pm

Those should be OK. You need a 7/16" part which equates to 11.11mm - so I'd go with the 12mm. (Better to be a little spaced than to not reach.)

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