[IN STOCK] Manual Voltage Processor - 16hp of Euro utility

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Tue Jul 15, 2014 4:42 pm

sd88me wrote:PMed you negativespace, wondering if you have any PCB sets in stock?
I don't see a PM in my box, but the answer is yes. I have plenty!

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sd88me
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Post by sd88me » Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:38 am

negativspace wrote:
sd88me wrote:PMed you negativespace, wondering if you have any PCB sets in stock?
I don't see a PM in my box, but the answer is yes. I have plenty!
got it sorted thanks to thonk. all working now

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Fri Aug 22, 2014 5:32 pm

:party:

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Milkweg
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Post by Milkweg » Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:03 pm

Do you have PCB and Panel sets still available?

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:12 pm

I do.

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synthcube
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Post by synthcube » Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:45 pm

happy to report we have full euro kits available

http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?rou ... uct_id=483

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Sittidae
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Post by Sittidae » Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:12 am

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-3mm-Bi-c ... 0488065579

Not cheap, but these are what I used for the MVP and CVP

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Post by jflower » Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:03 pm

Hey guys, I have a question on v1.3 of this board.

there are two unmarked capacitor spots next to the 8pin Mixer IC that's closest to the left hand side of the board. I am assuming that the 22pF caps that are mentioned in the first post as a "back of the board fix" now have a place in the pcb. Is this the case?

cheers!
jf

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trololoff
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Post by trololoff » Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:00 pm

That's what they appear to be. I've built two of those last week - both work like a charm! :banana:
jflower wrote:Hey guys, I have a question on v1.3 of this board.

there are two unmarked capacitor spots next to the 8pin Mixer IC that's closest to the left hand side of the board. I am assuming that the 22pF caps that are mentioned in the first post as a "back of the board fix" now have a place in the pcb. Is this the case?

cheers!
jf

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:50 pm

That is correct.

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Post by Aurelius » Sat Jan 17, 2015 7:43 am

What happened with all posts?

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Sat Jan 17, 2015 7:52 am

Long story...

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Post by Aurelius » Sat Jan 17, 2015 8:24 am

It's not good. I need some pictures

Maybe someone has got this topic in pdf file?

Please help :-)

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Post by monstrinho » Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:58 am

Aurelius wrote:It's not good. I need some pictures

Maybe someone has got this topic in pdf file?

Please help :-)
What's your difficulty, exactly? Just ask and we'll try to help.

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Post by Aurelius » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:39 pm

I was wondering what I should do with gnd leg from 3.5mm socket. where it should be soldered?

[/img]

Aurelius
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Post by Aurelius » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:41 pm

Few weeks ago I saw in the post that someone had soldered the gnd legs alltogether

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Post by Aurelius » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:48 pm

and yes

Do I must solder that 4.7K resistors on control Panel (4) or if I have soldered 680ohm (6) will that works? I remember that someone said that If I use 680ohm the bi-color led will be brighter

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Sat Jan 17, 2015 6:21 pm

That's correct. Those 6 resistors are part of the 3 LED drivers, each one having a 4.7k and 680R. Changing the 4.7k will alter the brightness of the LED and should have no effect at all on the function of the module beyond that.

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monstrinho
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Post by monstrinho » Sat Jan 17, 2015 6:35 pm

Aurelius wrote:I was wondering what I should do with gnd leg from 3.5mm socket. where it should be soldered?
Not sure I understand; if you are building this as a Euro module with the two PCBs, then you just solder the jack ground to the hole on the PCB. If you're building in another format (with flying wires), then yes, tie all the jack grounds together and then solder to ground on the PCB.

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Post by Aurelius » Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:01 pm

ok resistors problem is solved so many thanks

about my first difficulty. Maybe it's stupid but really I'm confused in which way I should solder 3.5mm sockets.

I have uploaded 2 pictures.

I can solder all sockets to pcb and also solder gnd leg to pcb using small wires

or insert the sockets on panel and then solder all gnd legs using one long wire and then solder that wire to pcb.

I remember that someone made it this way, because I saw a photo. but I didn't save it so now I don't know how it should be.

Maybe is there someone who have a picture where I can see where is tip from sockets soldered.

So as You can see I'm trying to resolve problem with 3.5mm jacks
and I need You guys to help me.

PleaseImage
Image

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Post by euromorcego » Sun Jan 18, 2015 1:14 pm

after a long long while i finally managed to build mine! And everything seems to work minus one detail: The LED on the right attenuverter just goes from full red to full green. Nothing in between.

The attenuverter itself works fine (it attenuverts smoothly), also the other LEDs work fine (their brightness changes according to signal strength).
Does anyone have an idea what might be wrong? Could it be one of the SMD components (I have not much experience with soldering SMD so i was quite surprised that everything worked in the end, minus that one LED).

It's a great module, a little large for small cases, but if one has a bit of space, it makes a useful addition to any system.

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ebbflo
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Post by ebbflo » Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:51 am

I have the same led behavior on one of my attenuverters. Mine is the middle one.
Another thing, I built this a few weeks ago with no problems but I never tried the buffered mults until last night and I got no signal. Passives worked great. While inspecting my work I noticed a couple of little tabs connecting traces to ground that did not make sense to me. One such tab was along the trace connecting the switch of buffered multi b in, the tip of buffered multi a and the header.

I took a shot and cut these little tabs and now everything works as it should.

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Post by bkbirge » Sat Feb 14, 2015 10:10 am

euromorcego wrote:after a long long while i finally managed to build mine! And everything seems to work minus one detail: The LED on the right attenuverter just goes from full red to full
I had this issue when I first built mine. It turned out one of the long legs on an led was touching something it wasn't supposed. I bent it back out of the way a little and problem solved. Check there before you break out the solder.

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Post by euromorcego » Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:39 pm

bkbirge wrote:I had this issue when I first built mine. It turned out one of the long legs on an led was touching something it wasn't supposed. ...
That might have been it! Actually, the problem was the middle led, not the right one. And the solder pads of the led resistors did touch the standoff of the middle pot. They are super close togather on the pcb. I bent it back a bit and now everything seems right. Thanks! Great module.

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ebbflo
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Post by ebbflo » Sun Feb 15, 2015 3:29 pm

yep fixed mine too. Thanks.

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