Cutout or punching die for DB25

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BTG
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Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by BTG » Fri Mar 01, 2013 1:01 am

I know there's gotta be an easier way than using a Dremel and hacking out a rough hole? I know you can get a punch for aluminum, but those are expensive.

Or do I just suck it up and use a drill + Dremel and then file it smooth? This in soft plastic right now but I expect I'll need to do this with a metal project box at some point as well.

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Kent
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Post by Kent » Fri Mar 01, 2013 1:08 am

Suck it up and buy the punch. The right tool for the job and will save you lots of hassle.

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Post by daverj » Fri Mar 01, 2013 2:21 am

The Greenlee d-sub punches are up around $500. That's not worth it if you are only going to do a few holes. I got mine about 20 years ago when they were $150.

Before that I used to drill a hole or two and then use a nibbler to cut out most of the metal, then a file to fine tune it.

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Re: Cutout for DB25

Post by Kent » Thu Apr 01, 2021 10:26 pm

Ha! Now I’m on the hunt for the same thing.

I found this on ebay. It’s around 150€, which seems fair to me.

Obviously, I’d rather spend less yet can’t find anything.

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Re: Cutout for DB25

Post by MikeDB » Fri Apr 02, 2021 3:47 am

Wow. I bought a manual operated one from RS for about £20 25 years ago and it's still going strong. Never realised they had changed them to 'hydraulic operation' and multiplied the price 10 times.

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Re: Cutout for DB25

Post by Kent » Fri Apr 02, 2021 4:22 am

Yeah, all of the hydraulic ones are for real pros and would be stupid for me to buy for my layperson's use. I can't find them in the small ads in my country so may have to buy as new.

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by BugBrand » Sat Apr 03, 2021 2:25 am

I wonder if there's a Q-Max punch suitable? I've got a few for round holes - I know they do other shapes but couldn't immediately find one for DB25 (possibly search term related). The round ones have been great & are perfectly affordable.

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by Kent » Sat Apr 03, 2021 3:00 am

Thanks for the lead, Tom. I’d not heard of Q-Max before.

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by MikeDB » Sat Apr 03, 2021 4:40 am

The ones I have are in RS boxes but were made by Qmax. I suspect as USB took over demand for D connectors dried up.

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by EATyourGUITAR » Sat Apr 03, 2021 3:26 pm

at work I used a machine that converts compressed air to hydraulic power. that was hooked up to a hydraulic punch tool. dangerous stuff. you can also break the tool if you load it or unload it incorrectly. you could also lose a finger, hand, eye or whatever. it leaked hydraulic oil everywhere but it was not something management was willing to pay to fix. at home, your best option is an electric powered hydraulic pump. you will be spending much more than the tool and die. is it worth it? that depends. do you like having a shop full of tools? you might want a capacitive discharge welding machine and a press brake. maybe you connect the hydraulic power to the press brake. if you have the space then why not do it.
WWW.EATYOURGUITAR.COM <---- MY DIY STUFF

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by Kent » Sat Apr 03, 2021 3:57 pm

9DEFE892-B284-4A96-BB35-B7D3F659B93E.jpeg
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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by emmaker » Sat Apr 03, 2021 6:29 pm

Don't know what you're doing and quantity.

But would there be an acceptable solution that you could get from Front Panel Express?

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by EATyourGUITAR » Sat Apr 03, 2021 11:08 pm

WWW.EATYOURGUITAR.COM <---- MY DIY STUFF

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by guest » Sat Apr 03, 2021 11:13 pm

there are a lot of these on ebay, most selling for 100-150$.
openmusiclabs.com

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by Jaytee » Sun Apr 04, 2021 6:38 pm

Cut out an ugly hole and then cover it with a 3D-printed/CNCed panel.

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by Kent » Sun Apr 04, 2021 6:39 pm

emmaker wrote:
Sat Apr 03, 2021 6:29 pm
Don't know what you're doing and quantity.

But would there be an acceptable solution that you could get from Front Panel Express?
Unfortunately, not. It is for modifying existing product.
None on AliExpress. No shipping to Europe, sadly. That’s a good deal. Thanks though.
guest wrote:
Sat Apr 03, 2021 11:13 pm
there are a lot of these on ebay, most selling for 100-150$.
They would need to ship outside of NA, thus they don’t show in EU-based searches.

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by Kent » Sun Apr 04, 2021 6:39 pm

Jaytee wrote:
Sun Apr 04, 2021 6:38 pm
Cut out an ugly hole and then cover it with a 3D-printed/CNCed panel.
A sticker might actually work with ‘Project Ugly Hole”!

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by guest » Sun Apr 04, 2021 6:53 pm

if a cover would work, they sell DB25 panels for PCI slots for about 1$ a piece.
openmusiclabs.com

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by Kent » Sun Apr 04, 2021 11:11 pm

Not a bad option. I’ll see if I can press that into service. Thanks. Sorry about the pun!

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Re: Cutout or punching die for DB25

Post by KSS » Sun Apr 04, 2021 11:45 pm

I'll share a trick to make this a little less scary on a mod project without the punch. It does require one extra DB25 male with pins. The metal shell type.

The first step is to separate the sacrificial housing by filing the swaged over part at the mounting holes. The two halves of the metal shell will then either fall or can be forced apart. You want the piece with the biggest D-hole. <--The largest member so to speak. :hihi:

Now you can take this piece and lay it up against the synth or panel or device you're adding the Dsub to. Once you get it where you want it mark ONE of the mounting holes and drill the marked hole.

Next use a screw or nut and bolt to fasten the large metal shroud/guide back against the work and drill the second mounting hole. You might need a smaller drill. But maybe not since the guide shroud hole may be already larger due to the missing swage from the other metal piece. Different mfrs choose different side to swage, which changes which half-shell has the larger holes when separated.
Loosen the first fastening screw of the shroud a little to be able to rotate it out of the way and re-drill the mounting hole full size, if needed. Re-align the second mounting hole and again use a screw or nut and bolt to fasten this side too. Re-tighten the first side mounting hardware.

Now you have a drill and file guide attached to the work. With a sewing needle, drywall screw or some other hard fine point, scratch the inside along the shroud to define the D-shape. <--This helps keep any paint from chipping in the next drilling operation.

Find the correct diameter drill for the four 'corners' of the "D" -placing different sizes against the guide, a little too small is better than too big. But a good fit is best. Then drill the four holes to define the 'corners'. If you're working from the outside of a synth drilling toward the inside put a bunch of PAPER* towels inside to keep any wayward shavings from getting to the electronics. Obviously the gear is off and unplugged!
*Paper tears. Cloth -like a shop rag or old T-shirt- will wind up on the drill and make your day suck.

Switch to a smaller drill bit* and make a series of holes to finish defining the outline. -aligning against the guide shroud as you did with the corner holes. The guide shroud is angled and you want to keep the drill against this angle. Doing so helps to make the new hole larger than the shroud itself. <--It'll make more sense once yo go through the steps with the sacrifice DB9,15,25.

You'll be using a file inside this smaller drill, so don;t make it too small. It can work even if its the same as the corners. But smaller mean you'll have less filing. Chainsaw sharpening files are at nearly every hardware store and are a useful size for many synth tasks.

Depending on your panel or gear material, you might want to try and scratch the inside shroud D outline a little deeper. Anybody getting this far will be able to figure out how to break out the remaining part in the middle.

One surefire way is to use a coarse file that will fit inside the smaller holes. With the guide still in place. Depending on the orientation of the Dsub, you'll be trying to file sideways or up and down to break away the material between the holes. In the thin metal or plastic of most synths or audio gear it goes pretty quickly. The metal guide makes this *far* easier than freestyle filing or nibbling. <-- and it works on material too thock for a nibbler too. A chainsaw file is cheaper than a nibbler.

Once you've got the middle raggedy piece out, it's time to remove the guide shroud.

Carefully file and refine the existing D-hole until your fresh new Dsub fits as you like. Make sure to use the male side with pins since its the larger of the two.

If you're new at this but have some DIY skill this should take less than an hour. Once you've done it a few times you can get it done in less than 15 minutes. And it will look good. If it takes you two hours you still saved or 'made' :75: per hour! over having bought the punch and die. <--Which can be nearly as much work and take just as long to use.
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