Manhattan Analog 'Mix' - Build Thread

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ove
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Post by ove » Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:17 am

Solder and soldering seems fine. Some more observations:

Jumper is set to "up"
Feeding sound into input 1.

All knobs at zero = quiet
Master knob in the middle = a small amount of input 1 leaks through.
Master knob all the way right = quiet again.
Master knob at zero and knob three all the way right = quiet
Master knob all the way right and knob three all the way right = a small amount of input 1 leaks through again.

This is true regardless of the input/channel combinations i.e. not only input one/knob three.

ove
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Post by ove » Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:25 am

I should add that the leaking sound sounds high pass filtered. Could there be something wrong with my ferrite beads? I use these: http://www.electrokit.com/en/ferrite-be ... x5mm.43402

ove
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Post by ove » Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:44 am

Would it help to increase the values of the resistors or will that only lowering the amplitude of the sound overall?

talfred
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Post by talfred » Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:05 am

The synthcube version of this kit has different connectors than in the thonk manual. I'm new to DIY and aren't sure how these should be soldered. I guess that the connectors at the bottom is ground?

Image

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Monobass
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Post by Monobass » Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:32 am

Yeah the one sticking out at a right angle is ground.

Then by the orientation of your photo, the ones mounted in the panel, The TIP is the top pin perpendicular to the panel, and the SWITCH is the bottom pin perpendicular to the panel.

Check out my AT-AT-AT build doc on Thonk for an idea on how to ground them together simply.
Thonk - CLICK HERE - Modular Synth DIY + Eurorack Accessories Store

talfred
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Post by talfred » Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:38 am

Monobass wrote:Yeah the one sticking out at a right angle is ground.

Then by the orientation of your photo, the ones mounted in the panel, The TIP is the top pin perpendicular to the panel, and the SWITCH is the bottom pin perpendicular to the panel.

Check out my AT-AT-AT build doc on Thonk for an idea on how to ground them together simply.
Thanks!

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banalytic
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Post by banalytic » Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:23 pm

hi!
I orderd a manhatten mix pcb & panel from thonk and now I am looking for the right parts...

So there are two questions:

1. Is it possible to use a 22pF-Condensator instead of a 20pF? (I couldn't find an 20pF anywhere :/)

would this one work?!: http://tinyurl.com/q7uqt4x


2. Ferrite Beads

I found three different ones:

- EMI Noise Filter Ferrite Axial, 60 Ohm @ 10 MHz
http://tinyurl.com/pn22ybq

- EMI suppression filters axially, 90 Ohms @ 10 MHz
http://tinyurl.com/okjd4km

- Ferrite EMI suppression filters axially, 21 O @ 10 MHz
http://tinyurl.com/pdhvgb9

Which one should I use?!

Would be glad to get an answer smile
Best Regards from vienna, austria ... andreas

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wotwot
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first Channel doesnt work

Post by wotwot » Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:31 pm

Hello,

i got three of these mixers, two of them DIY where one of them has a non-functional first channel.
ie something plugged into the first input will not appear at the mix output, no matter at which postition of the first pot.

i already unsoldered the topmost pot and measured it to be ok, soldering it back in left me with the same result as before.

Does anyone have a hint how i might be able to fix this one ?

ty

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negativspace
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Post by negativspace » Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:32 pm

The pot, input resistor, jack, or wire to the jack are your options. If it's only on the one channel, those are the only things unique to each input. Since it's not the pot and unlikely to be a resistor, check the jack and wire!

I suppose it could also be an issue with the PCB itself... that should be fairly easy to check as it would be a trace associated with one of the parts listed above.

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Post by carlotter » Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:54 pm

Has anyone made a mouser project from the BOM? I don't know much about components and I'm really struggling!

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Bluenote
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Post by Bluenote » Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:39 am

Hi, I've got a synth cube kit and I'm not getting any signal out of the output. The other weird thing, is if I have audio input into one of the inputs (say input 1) I can get output from the other inputs (2 and 3). Any ideas would be helpful, all my joints and wiring seems ok.

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far
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Post by far » Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:06 pm

^ I'd say have another look into your wiring, reckon you may have them mixed up.

My issue is I'm hearing noise out of my output and whenever I touch the output knob, the output goes to zero before going to a audible level with the noise, almost like sidechain compression.
I've looked over and over it, it looks good. Does it sound like a grounding issue (excuse the pun)? Any tips there?

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noisefor
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Post by noisefor » Wed May 25, 2016 10:03 pm

i ordered and built two of these from synthcube kits. first one had no sound when plugged in, except really low frequencies pushing out whenever I moved the output attenuator pot. I figured I must have fuc*ed something up, so I built the second one and same issue. i ran them on two power busses (one monorocket case and one tip top uzuess) and no luck. I tried swapping the ic's just to see if it was those, i checked power and it's getting +/- 12v at the source so it's not that. i unplugged power and am geting signal through the pots and jacks work so it's not the wiring...? I don't know what else to trouble shoot. The caps and diodes are all oriented properly, no cold solder joints - used washable solder and washed. the thing that's curious is both are exhibiting same behavior? anybody??

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gbiz
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Post by gbiz » Thu May 26, 2016 3:56 am

Some decent quality pics of the build would be a good place to start.

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noisefor
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Post by noisefor » Thu May 26, 2016 2:19 pm

gbiz wrote:Some decent quality pics of the build would be a good place to start.
yes, of course! thx qbiz. here's both of them:

Image
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ImageImage

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duff
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Post by duff » Thu May 26, 2016 3:03 pm

If that is an OPA134 isn't that a single op amp and the LME49720 dual? They aren't pin compatible and would probably explain your issues.

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gbiz
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Post by gbiz » Thu May 26, 2016 4:01 pm

I agree with duff. If you have one in your parts bin, try a tl072 in there, that will at least work. If you want one from that TI series, you need an opa2134 not the opa134.

(I'd question whether it's worth using a relatively expensive op-amp like that with carbon resistors & what looks to be generic electrolytics. 072 would probably suffice).

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noisefor
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Post by noisefor » Thu May 26, 2016 9:02 pm

ah shucks... i didn't even compare the bom with what synthcube sent, which shoulda been the first thing i did - that's the wrong ic. thanks y'all!

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Post by sagetone » Wed Aug 03, 2016 10:02 pm

Hi,

I have an MA Mix, not a DIY, but factory built. I bought it her on the MW FS/FT. Ch. 1 no longer works, Ch. 2 & 3 are fine. I have a basic understanding of the mix circuit in this, so if 2 & 3 are working, then the op amp IC is OK. I removed power from the module and ohm'ed the pots. The Ch. 1 pot definitely has an issue. This is a 50K 9mm audio taper from Alpha. Where can I get one of these in the US?

Thanks,

Todd

PS - May have found the answer - I'll try Small Bear in NY

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far
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Post by far » Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:39 am

I bought and built a few months back, didn't work. Thought I'd try again tonight as my CP3 has decided not to work. I have a spare tl072 and as suggested above, tried and it works! Nice one.
However it does kinda sound a bit odd, fluctuating a touch in volume and almost like a low pass filter, dips out frequencies intermittently. However I use the mixer to mostly to mix glitch sounds for percussion so it doesn't worry me to much, if anything could be a good thing.

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DJMaytag
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Post by DJMaytag » Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:38 am

Someone asked this question previously, but it looks like it was missed:

Can a 22pF cap be used in place of the 20pF?

I have some 20pF's I got off eBay without realizing that the quality isn't very good (probably X7R or Z5U, but 10% either way). I've got some C0G 22pF's on the way, and those are probably better quality parts anyway.
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gbiz
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Post by gbiz » Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:35 pm

Yes. But use the C0G ones if you have them.

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Post by DJMaytag » Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:58 pm

gbiz wrote:Yes. But use the C0G ones if you have them.
Cool. They're TDK FG28 series 22pF caps from Mouser. They seem to be used in a lot of BOM's that I've read, so they must be OK? I hope so, as I order lots of 10's and 100's of a number of different values.
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gbiz
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Post by gbiz » Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:11 pm

They'll be fine.

I was curious to see what i used on mine here. I just checked one & it's got one of those little blue TDK 22p :)

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crossinger
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Post by crossinger » Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:35 am

Ok, I try to keep it short: I need your help! :help:

I built my Mix five years ago, it worked right away and served me well for several years.

But ~2 years ago that "crackling" started:

* it doesn't start right away, but starts after a "warm up" time
* it happens on each input (excludes jacks as cause)
* no need to touch the knobs (excludes pots as cause)
* it happens only when a signal is fed into the input

I had a sparse OpAmp to swap (but were not sure if it's a functional one): did not resolve the problem.

So I'm running out of ideas to narrow down the issue?

Buy another OpAmp as replacement to exclude this cause as well?

Re-solder each solder point because it might be a cold joint?

Do you have some hints for a "starting point"? Because I'm not that good as troubleshooter. :oops:

Currently i have put it out of order, but I'd like to revive it again for my rack.

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