Is my 200e possessed?

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amnesia
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Is my 200e possessed?

Post by amnesia » Tue May 08, 2012 1:57 am

I have had a problem with the lights flickering on my 24wls since December last year. No one at Buchla got back to me about the fix, just that they were working on it.

Well today I accidently plugged an output of the 281e into the 266e output and I am sure that stopped the flickering light issue. The lights seem stable again :-) Plugging the output to output also made the 266e output light work again as it stopped lighting a month back. 2nd output I am talking about.

My first 266e outputs leds stopped working a while ago and then one day started again!

Not sure why that would fix the 24wls flickering lights issue? Any ideas?

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Lyonel
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Post by Lyonel » Tue May 08, 2012 2:06 am

Absolutely no idea. :lol:
I changed the light bars three times, and the 266e leds two times.

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Kent
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Post by Kent » Tue May 08, 2012 2:33 am

It's probably coincidental. More than likely there is a loose or poor contact on the voltage rail that supplies your lamps. I'd wager that the shaking of the case has provided better contact temporarily. Mine was delivered this way when new and I traced it down and flowed some solder on it.

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amnesia
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Post by amnesia » Tue May 08, 2012 2:34 am

Spoke too soon. The bars lights are flickering again but only occasionally. I guess its a different pattern at least to enjoy when patching.

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Lyonel
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Post by Lyonel » Tue May 08, 2012 2:53 am

Yep, epileptic patterns !

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dkcg
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Post by dkcg » Tue May 08, 2012 3:54 pm

Are you guys positive you're not just blinking a lot in amazement?

Must be some sort of issue, mine's been fine so far, but I know that the previous owner had the light bar replaced at some point.

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dualmono
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Post by dualmono » Tue May 08, 2012 4:42 pm

You should stop making haunted house tracks!
Seriously though, I hope you get it sorted.
ImageImageImageImage

Michael Tiemann
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Re: Is my 200e possessed?

Post by Michael Tiemann » Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:51 pm

I have a flickering light bar on one of my Buchla system's. What's strange is that the LEDs that are flickering are every third one. So three LEDs are flickering and 6 are rock-solid, like this:
F-S-S-F-S-S-F-S-S

Any thoughts on how to approach /that/? The bar doesn't appear to be very user-serviceable.

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batchas
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Re: Is my 200e possessed?

Post by batchas » Tue Mar 10, 2020 1:51 am

Michael Tiemann wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:51 pm
Any thoughts on how to approach /that/? The bar doesn't appear to be very user-serviceable.
I had this on mine too. It was 1 or 2 LEDs dead.
Not simple to replace the way the thing is mounted but doable. Since I did it it works fine.
If I can look into my backups (USB issue), I'll look if I documented the way I did. I remember taking pictures.

EDIT: I could not find the photos/docs in my backups. I'm sorry.
As said earlier, it's possible to repair and change the faulty LED(s) by taking out the very thin and long pcb with all LEDs out of its metallic tube.
What you need to do it to take good care of how it is made (and look how the wires which connect the PCB to power are mounted or where they go through). Needs some patience and care. This is how I recall it.
FS: New Orgone Accumulator MK2 for BugBrand/FRAC
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momo
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Re: Is my 200e possessed?

Post by momo » Tue Mar 10, 2020 2:34 pm

The rows of LED’s share a power rail in their own row, thus one bad LED can lead to problems on the whole row. I did some work on my 24 case around Christmas. Can share images if that helps. Fiddly! Can see why they abandoned the bar in favour of BNC sockets!

Michael Tiemann
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Re: Is my 200e possessed?

Post by Michael Tiemann » Wed Mar 11, 2020 7:37 am

Please do post photos if you have them. Because of the way the power wire threads into the tube, I either need to cut off both the strain-relief tie and the boat-side power connector, or need to know exactly how to disconnect cable on tube-side pcb.

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batchas
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Re: Is my 200e possessed?

Post by batchas » Wed Mar 11, 2020 12:31 pm

Michael Tiemann wrote:
Wed Mar 11, 2020 7:37 am
Please do post photos if you have them. Because of the way the power wire threads into the tube, I either need to cut off both the strain-relief tie and the boat-side power connector, or need to know exactly how to disconnect cable on tube-side pcb.
A power wire comes out of the tube and goes into the boat/case. I did unsolder it or cut it from its connection in the boat/case, I don't remember how it's done inside the case. I guess unsolder is the solution. Clean.
Then I attached a long piece of string to this wire coming out the tube (minimum length is length of the tube). Like this I was able to take the pcb out (pushing from one side of the tube, you'll be able to get the pcb out, slowly), without loosing the power wire (cause I did not want to pull this wire off the tube, as it would be impossible to put it back going through the hole again).
So the power wire comes with the long pcb/LEDs and is long enough with the piece of string attached to it.
You check which LED is dead (continuity on each rail), you replace it/them and you can check by connecting the power wire to where it was (I used alligator wire) that all is working fine. When all ok, you put the PCB back in the tube. The piece of string that you pull slowly while pushing the PCB back in the tube allows to get the power wire back again in the tube's hole.
I hope it make sense?

This is the way I remember it as there's this power wire that you don't want to come out of the tube!

EDIT: I have myself only this photo. Not very helpful I'm afraid. I should have documented it the repair. But I hope my explanation above is clear enough.
Image

EIDT: oh I see a spacer on the photo of a part of the PCB, means you need to unscrew the spacers from the tube first!
FS: New Orgone Accumulator MK2 for BugBrand/FRAC
-----------------------------------
www.batchas.com

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