What are your 5U plans for the weekend?
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Moon and many others I've owned like STG, newer COTK, Happy Nerding, SSL, MegaOhm etc are done similar to the original Moog panels with black/dark anodized aluminum that has the labeling and graphics etched. (I'm not sure on how the exact process is done)kindredlost wrote:I can't really say about the texture of Moon Modular panels or any other vendor's finish. I am not certain if Moon has truly blank ones without the Moon logo? I never bought any. Someone like the venerable JLR will chime in soon no doubt. Most of the Moon, Synthetic Sound Labs and STG Soundlabs panels are smoother but I don't know if they are available in blanks either.
Grove looks like a very smooth paint or power coat that has been silk screened.
Moon has big Moon logo blanks and mostly blank blanks:

Resysnthesis makes extremely nice Moog style panels and offers truly blank blanks but they are temporarily not accepting new orders because they are swamped!
http://www.bigbluewave.co.uk/resynthesi ... panels.htm
- Leverkusen
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...after nearly finishing the Journeyman on the weekend I needed some successful experience and started the Diode Ladder only to see that I don't have the right potentiometers here, again short before finishing.
At least there will be two new filter modules finished as soon as the postman rings by the end of the week. Plus I revisited my first DIY project, the Noise Toaster, which never worked and looks like a mess. Found some bugs there and got in a kind-of-working-state, which is a kind-of-success in the end.

At least there will be two new filter modules finished as soon as the postman rings by the end of the week. Plus I revisited my first DIY project, the Noise Toaster, which never worked and looks like a mess. Found some bugs there and got in a kind-of-working-state, which is a kind-of-success in the end.

- Huba-Swift
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I have an equivalent to the brother labeller, and I use it for some projects, but I really want to make this one look professional. I have a screen, squeegee, etc. But I don't have any clue on what types of ink to get. I have some ink lying around that is meant for making shirts, and was thinking that it may be possible to use that if I did a transparent coat over it. Another thing I have considered (and probably wouldn't work) is transferring a mirrored laser printer image from glossy paperDrReverendSeance wrote:Silkscreening might be less tedious than using the Brother Labeller (my method for single run DIY), do you have access to silkscreen equipment?Huba-Swift wrote:I'm gonna be building a 44 space cabinet out of mahogany, just need to come up with the design. I'm probably going to do something like the Dotcom studio-44, but I hope to take 2 3/4" off of the depth, hopefully that still allows enough room for a power supply. After that I have to start making the panels for some of my completed Yusynth modules. I'm probably going to silkscreen them, but I'm curious how others do their diy panels, silkscreening seems a bit tedious.
onto the metal.
- DrReverendSeance
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I'm not a screen printer but found this re ink for printing on metal on the Internet: http://www.screenprintingforum.com/view ... f=3&t=1141Huba-Swift wrote:I have an equivalent to the brother labeller, and I use it for some projects, but I really want to make this one look professional. I have a screen, squeegee, etc. But I don't have any clue on what types of ink to get. I have some ink lying around that is meant for making shirts, and was thinking that it may be possible to use that if I did a transparent coat over it. Another thing I have considered (and probably wouldn't work) is transferring a mirrored laser printer image from glossy paperDrReverendSeance wrote:Silkscreening might be less tedious than using the Brother Labeller (my method for single run DIY), do you have access to silkscreen equipment?Huba-Swift wrote:I'm gonna be building a 44 space cabinet out of mahogany, just need to come up with the design. I'm probably going to do something like the Dotcom studio-44, but I hope to take 2 3/4" off of the depth, hopefully that still allows enough room for a power supply. After that I have to start making the panels for some of my completed Yusynth modules. I'm probably going to silkscreen them, but I'm curious how others do their diy panels, silkscreening seems a bit tedious.
onto the metal.
"I order my ink from a company called Sun Chemical. The ink is C91-S103 Opaque White. The retarder is ET-12 and the reducer is ST-291. This is a great setup for screening polane painted metals, anodized, and iridited metals. These are really the only surfaces I print on. It can dry overnight or in an oven at about 150 degrees for 30-40 minutes. I've done this for 5 years and never had a problem with the ink. I use 305 yellow mesh screens, and do all the positive prints/coating/burning in my shop."
Maybe helpful?
- unrecordings
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I'm --still-- using Letraset on burnished aluminium
Some of my Letraset is over 30 years old
I'm going to run out of the number '2' sometime this year...
Edit: There's some reasoning here. I knew I couldn't get anything close to the original MOTM/Stooge panel finish, so I went down a completely different route for my DIY panels

Some of my Letraset is over 30 years old
I'm going to run out of the number '2' sometime this year...
Edit: There's some reasoning here. I knew I couldn't get anything close to the original MOTM/Stooge panel finish, so I went down a completely different route for my DIY panels

- Huba-Swift
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Thanks you! That's exactly what I needed to know.DrReverendSeance wrote:I'm not a screen printer but found this re ink for printing on metal on the Internet: http://www.screenprintingforum.com/view ... f=3&t=1141Huba-Swift wrote:I have an equivalent to the brother labeller, and I use it for some projects, but I really want to make this one look professional. I have a screen, squeegee, etc. But I don't have any clue on what types of ink to get. I have some ink lying around that is meant for making shirts, and was thinking that it may be possible to use that if I did a transparent coat over it. Another thing I have considered (and probably wouldn't work) is transferring a mirrored laser printer image from glossy paperDrReverendSeance wrote:Silkscreening might be less tedious than using the Brother Labeller (my method for single run DIY), do you have access to silkscreen equipment?Huba-Swift wrote:I'm gonna be building a 44 space cabinet out of mahogany, just need to come up with the design. I'm probably going to do something like the Dotcom studio-44, but I hope to take 2 3/4" off of the depth, hopefully that still allows enough room for a power supply. After that I have to start making the panels for some of my completed Yusynth modules. I'm probably going to silkscreen them, but I'm curious how others do their diy panels, silkscreening seems a bit tedious.
onto the metal.
"I order my ink from a company called Sun Chemical. The ink is C91-S103 Opaque White. The retarder is ET-12 and the reducer is ST-291. This is a great setup for screening polane painted metals, anodized, and iridited metals. These are really the only surfaces I print on. It can dry overnight or in an oven at about 150 degrees for 30-40 minutes. I've done this for 5 years and never had a problem with the ink. I use 305 yellow mesh screens, and do all the positive prints/coating/burning in my shop."
Maybe helpful?
- unrecordings
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
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- unrecordings
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re: motm I was on about the paint in the youtube videounrecordings wrote:Nope, it's just raw aluminium, but I burnish it with a wire brush (cup brush attached to a drill) to give it that lustre, then add the lettering then three coats of Halfords lacquerjosaka wrote:I really like the aluminium look.. is this the motm finish?
if not it looks nice anyway ..

- unrecordings
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This weekend is my 5U starting weekend
I received my first 5U system from Mos-Lab which I waited more than a year.

Maybe this system is a second thing which make me to learn fundamentally new musical instrument (The first one was an electric guitar. And the bamboo flute, which I don't count as I have no chances with it).
I also started to make my second 5U case. One 1,5m^2 list of plywood gives me parts for three 16U cases.

I received my first 5U system from Mos-Lab which I waited more than a year.

Maybe this system is a second thing which make me to learn fundamentally new musical instrument (The first one was an electric guitar. And the bamboo flute, which I don't count as I have no chances with it).
I also started to make my second 5U case. One 1,5m^2 list of plywood gives me parts for three 16U cases.
- unrecordings
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- Leverkusen
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I finally finished all my Oakley kits - and all is working!

Now I need a second journeyman to couple it with the first one for band passing, some mixers and CV-utilities, multiples perhaps.
Anyone knows if there is something like the Q-125 on the european DIY-market? Maybe more complex so that it's worth not just buying one from the US?
I would have to build some proper case for all that then...



Now I need a second journeyman to couple it with the first one for band passing, some mixers and CV-utilities, multiples perhaps.
Anyone knows if there is something like the Q-125 on the european DIY-market? Maybe more complex so that it's worth not just buying one from the US?
I would have to build some proper case for all that then...
- peachfuzzmcgee
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I finally finished my dusg and I'm gonna screw around and figure out different stuff I can do on it. It's a really fun module and getting them to loop is also damn fun When you input some random CV to the slope. Next week I'm gonna spend building and probably troubleshooting a PT audio dual digital oscillator.
Also that 5U up there is making me want to repanel all my stuff from MU to MOTM format so I can get some dank FPE stuff made in sleek colors. Black gets boring. I'm planning on at least changing all my knobs into those red MXR type knobs from smallbear sometime soon.
So whom ever wants to buy like 20-30 different sized cosmo knobs in the future should let me know hah
Also that 5U up there is making me want to repanel all my stuff from MU to MOTM format so I can get some dank FPE stuff made in sleek colors. Black gets boring. I'm planning on at least changing all my knobs into those red MXR type knobs from smallbear sometime soon.
So whom ever wants to buy like 20-30 different sized cosmo knobs in the future should let me know hah
Last edited by peachfuzzmcgee on Sun Jul 17, 2016 4:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
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Your panels look really nice. However, you can achieve virtually identical results much easier with baked-on Lazertran, printed on a laserjet printer. Here's and example (I don't burnish my panels, so they don't look as nice, but...)unrecordings wrote:I'm --still-- using Letraset on burnished aluminium
Some of my Letraset is over 30 years old
I'm going to run out of the number '2' sometime this year...
Edit: There's some reasoning here. I knew I couldn't get anything close to the original MOTM/Stooge panel finish, so I went down a completely different route for my DIY panels

A dewdrop can exalt us like the music of the sun.
- satindas
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For a couple of evenings last year I had four strangers sat in my front and rear gardens in camping chairs detecting bats flying in and out of my loft. Was that you ?unrecordings wrote: Bat detecting = Yes

These are bizarre manifestations of untamed high-frequency parasitic oscillations...
www.psycox.co.uk
www.psycox.co.uk
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- satindas
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Must've been someone else then.unrecordings wrote:nope :-)satindas wrote:For a couple of evenings last year I had four strangers sat in my front and rear gardens in camping chairs detecting bats flying in and out of my loft. Was that you ?unrecordings wrote: Bat detecting = Yes
These are bizarre manifestations of untamed high-frequency parasitic oscillations...
www.psycox.co.uk
www.psycox.co.uk
- NikatNOISEBUG
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