.com QPS3 power splitter?

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josaka
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.com QPS3 power splitter?

Post by josaka » Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:16 pm

is there any way to split the power from a qps3 into 2 40 cable harnesses without using a q103 ?

I just have 1 big cabinet so don't see the point of getting an extra module..
thanks :)

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Dave Peck
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Post by Dave Peck » Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:26 pm

Sure, just get an extra QDH40 (40 module harness) and wire it to the output harness on the QPS3 power supply, in parallel with the existing QDH40.

Of course any mods that deal with the power should only be done by someone who is familiar with this kind of work so you don't do something that might be unsafe to you or your modules.

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Tue Jul 05, 2016 7:23 pm

I agree with everything Dave said! :tu:

Here is a suggestion that should work, but it is up to you to determine if this connection will work without problems and if your power supply has enough current to support all the modules you connect to it etc etc.

So all that said, you should be able to use a simple 4 Pin Molex Power Y Cable . . .

EDIT: The below suggestion has the wrong type of connectors! What is shown are AMP/TE Mate-N-Lok connectors that are typically used in the computer industry but the DotCom supplies and harnesses use Molex brand connectors! A Y cable will need to be constructed by the end user or custom ordered from someone since it's unlikely any are available to purchase off-the-shelf. Thanks to defutura for noticing my oversight! :tu:
. . . like the one below:
http://www.cablewholesale.com/products/ ... -01208.php

Image
Last edited by JohnLRice on Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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josaka
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Post by josaka » Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:08 pm

thanks john.. I will get one.. it never occurred to me it would be that simple.. used a bunch of the six pin four pin ones when I built the computer..


this suitable ..?

next question would be .. does anyone in the UK make long .com power harnesses for 40 modules..?

this brexit stupidity has tanked the UK buying power in US..

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:58 pm

josaka wrote:thanks john.. I will get one.. it never occurred to me it would be that simple.. used a bunch of the six pin four pin ones when I built the computer..


this suitable ..?

next question would be .. does anyone in the UK make long .com power harnesses for 40 modules..?

this brexit stupidity has tanked the UK buying power in US..
Try some computer supply places.

Or for modular savvy peeps in the UK try:

http://www.hinton-instruments.co.uk/

http://www.oakleysound.com/

http://www.krisp1.com/

http://www.macbethstudiosystems.com/

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Post by josaka » Wed Jul 06, 2016 9:41 am

once again thanks.. paul is snowed under.. :) asked hinton..

..

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defutura
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Post by defutura » Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:39 am

JohnLRice wrote:So all that said, you should be able to use a simple 4 Pin Molex Power Y Cable like the one below:
Can anyone confirm that these really work with the connectors that Roger uses ... ?

The Dotcom ones are from TE Connectivity, and they have a sort of wedge shape at one end to prevent them from being inserted the wrong way.

Image

Those Molex Y cable connectors instead have a small bevel at either side...

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 10:27 am

defutura wrote:
JohnLRice wrote:So all that said, you should be able to use a simple 4 Pin Molex Power Y Cable like the one below:
Can anyone confirm that these really work with the connectors that Roger uses ... ?

The Dotcom ones are from TE Connectivity, and they have a sort of wedge shape at one end to prevent them from being inserted the wrong way.

Image

Those Molex Y cable connectors instead have a small bevel at either side...
The idea here isn't to split a power connector on the harness that goes to the modules, it's to split the power coming off of the power supply itself so that two harnesses can be connected to it at the same time. :tu:

Image

As a side note: thinking about it today, if the connector on the QPS3 is also male it might be hard to find an off-the-shelf cable to do this. I've never had a DotCom power supply and the pictures are too small to tell so I'm not sure what would be needed exactly.

EDIT: Sorry, I read your post too fast too early in the morning! :doh: :oops: Yes, the correct type of connectors need to be determined. I don't have these power components so someone attempting this needs to fully understand what they need and shouldn't blindly follow my partially ignorant serving suggestions! :hihi:
Last edited by JohnLRice on Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 10:54 am

A little more research shows I didn't know what I thought I knew! :roll: :cloud:

I didn't realize that Amphenol (AMP, now part of TE) also made "Molex type" connectors. Here's a WIKI on it:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector
Image

Looks like Synthesizers.com uses Molex brand DC power connectors though, not TE Connectivity ones. And the computer Y adapters I listed earlier wont work since they are AMP/TE style connectors. :ripbanana:

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josaka
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Post by josaka » Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:03 am


JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:21 am

That would have been a useful adapter if needed but now I'm pretty sure it wont work because it's an AMP brand connector. :waah:

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defutura
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Post by defutura » Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:26 am

Yeah, that picture with the blue background shows exactly what I'm talking about. I guess this means these can't be combined, at least not without force. Thanks!
JohnLRice wrote:Looks like Synthesizers.com uses Molex brand DC power connectors though, not TE Connectivity ones.
No, quite the contrary, it seems. I entered the numbers from the Dotcom Power Data Sheet in Mouser's search box, and what pops up is TE brand stuff. Even if Roger calls them "Molex".

So it seems TE makes both kinds of connectors: with two chamfered corners and with the wedge shape at one end.

For easy reference, here are the Mouser numbers for the TE brand connectors from the Dotcom PDF:

Female cable mount housing: 571-7700751
.093 male contact: 571-7701471

Male cable mount housing: 571-7700781
.093 female contact: 571-7701461
Image

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Post by defutura » Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:55 am

OK, I digged around some.

So the variety with two chamfered corners on the long side is called Molex 8981 or TE/AMP 1-480424-0 (AMP MATE-N-LOK) for the female connector housing.

The one with the chamfered corners on the short side (the Dotcom one) is TE 571-7700751 for the female connector housing. I can't find a Molex connector that looks like this... EDIT: [Spoiler alert] Further on in the thread, John finds out that the Molex 1490-P1 series looks a lot like this...
Last edited by defutura on Sat Aug 20, 2016 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 1:25 pm

:hmm: :despair: :lol: It's confusing! The WIKI article says Molex started it, then AMP did their own but similar connectors and later Molex made some connectors that were compatible with the AMP ones so I suppose at some point AMP must have made their own version that was compatible with the original Molex ones? :ripbanana:

And they are all referred to as "Molex" as a generic term.

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Post by josaka » Fri Aug 19, 2016 5:42 pm

all this Toing and froing .. leaves us where..?
we need amp dc or molex or ? :)

anything been found..?

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 6:05 pm

josaka wrote:all this Toing and froing .. leaves us where..?
we need amp dc or molex or ? :)

anything been found..?
:spin:

Sorry to get peeps hopes up with my earlier ignoranes! :msnsmack: :spank: :trout:

I think the easiest solution if you can solder or at least if you can cut and strip wire and use wire nuts is:

1) Cut off the Molex/Amp connector on one of the wire harnesses

2) Strip about 3/4" of insulation off of each wire

3) remove the wire nuts from the other wire harness

4) Attached the cut/stripped wires to the unmodified wire harness with the wire nuts. (solder first if possible)

Of course, you need to make sure you are connecting to the correct points and securing the wires properly and if you aren't sure you can do that, hire someone else to do it for you!

And . . .get a second opinion since I give wrong advice sometimes . . . :sadbanana:

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Post by josaka » Fri Aug 19, 2016 6:22 pm

JohnLRice wrote:
And . . .get a second opinion since I give wrong advice sometimes . . . :sadbanana:
:)

might ask roger..

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 6:40 pm

josaka wrote:
JohnLRice wrote:
And . . .get a second opinion since I give wrong advice sometimes . . . :sadbanana:
:)

might ask roger..
Roger doesn't support any sort of DIY action. :waah:

ranix

Post by ranix » Fri Aug 19, 2016 7:16 pm

The 4-pin harness extension plugs used by Dotcom systems are indeed TE Connectivity housings with the triangular key and are not compatible with the Molex 8981 series connectors. The plastics just don't physically connect, if you were to use an adapter or hard wire them together they'd be fine.

I can totally understand how someone would refer to these TE connectivity connectors as "molex" connectors colloquially. I think the Molex 8981 series strongly implies that the yellow cable is +12v, which is probably why the Dotcom harnesses use the TE connectivity connectors instead (the Molex 8981 is usually used in PC power supplies). There are tons of these types of connectors by many many manufacturers and everyone has their preference.

You can DIY the shit out of these wires and connectors as long as all your connections are solid and the cable diameter is proper and the cable length isn't too long. Just make sure you keep track of the color coding.

Also don't overload your power supply, obviously.

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 7:42 pm

Molex 1490-P1 series might work . . . .
http://www.alliedelec.com/molex-incorpo ... /70190595/
Image

. . . but there is no reason to not order the exact TE part numbers provided by Synth.com! :tu:

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Post by Mark11Audio » Fri Aug 19, 2016 7:52 pm

JohnLRice wrote:
josaka wrote:all this Toing and froing .. leaves us where..?
we need amp dc or molex or ? :)

anything been found..?
:spin:

Sorry to get peeps hopes up with my earlier ignoranes! :msnsmack: :spank: :trout:

I think the easiest solution if you can solder or at least if you can cut and strip wire and use wire nuts is:

1) Cut off the Molex/Amp connector on one of the wire harnesses

2) Strip about 3/4" of insulation off of each wire

3) remove the wire nuts from the other wire harness

4) Attached the cut/stripped wires to the unmodified wire harness with the wire nuts. (solder first if possible)

Of course, you need to make sure you are connecting to the correct points and securing the wires properly and if you aren't sure you can do that, hire someone else to do it for you!

And . . .get a second opinion since I give wrong advice sometimes . . . :sadbanana:
John, John, John.... I can tell you've been re-wiring your own place for too many hours, lack of sleep... :tu: You've done enough of these power supply things, why re-invent the wheel... do like we both have done for the larger cabinets.

Buss Bar strips... !!!

Image

Cut off ALL the molex ends, solder, terminal, heat shrink... boom, bam done! The bigger concern is making sure the .ma doesn't exceed the QPS3 rating.

Yeah, Roger (for liability reasons) can't help... makes sense...

:mrgreen:

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 19, 2016 8:08 pm

Mark11Audio wrote:John, John, John.... I can tell you've been re-wiring your own place for too many hours, lack of sleep... :tu: You've done enough of these power supply things, why re-invent the wheel... do like we both have done for the larger cabinets.

Buss Bar strips... !!!

Image

Cut off ALL the molex ends, solder, terminal, heat shrink... boom, bam done! The bigger concern is making sure the .ma doesn't exceed the QPS3 rating.

Yeah, Roger (for liability reasons) can't help... makes sense...

:mrgreen:
NOW YER COOKIN' WITH GAS!!! :party: :party: :goo: :goo: :party: :party:

I am tired . . broken sleep lately . . 15 minutes to 4 hours at a time, on and off, all day and night long . . . :ripbanana:

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Post by Mark11Audio » Fri Aug 19, 2016 8:24 pm

JohnLRice wrote:
Mark11Audio wrote:John, John, John.... I can tell you've been re-wiring your own place for too many hours, lack of sleep... :tu: You've done enough of these power supply things, why re-invent the wheel... do like we both have done for the larger cabinets.

Buss Bar strips... !!!

Image

Cut off ALL the molex ends, solder, terminal, heat shrink... boom, bam done! The bigger concern is making sure the .ma doesn't exceed the QPS3 rating.

Yeah, Roger (for liability reasons) can't help... makes sense...

:mrgreen:
NOW YER COOKIN' WITH GAS!!! :party: :party: :goo: :goo: :party: :party:

I am tired . . broken sleep lately . . 15 minutes to 4 hours at a time, on and off, all day and night long . . . :ripbanana:
I kind of figured that... it's why I decided to jump in and "help a brother out... " :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :help: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I'm still re-wiring mine too... way behind... LOL Must be that time of year....

I have to check in with Gert too... I need some "stuff!" LOL

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Post by josaka » Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:40 am

still plugging away here..
looking more imminent only 3 power connectors left !

so...
two of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-MX-1490-R1 ... SwGIRXZTOt
Image

to one of these.. ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MX-1490-P1-Pl ... 3502_1.jpg[/img]


what I am seeing the only problem seems to be the physical connectors.. correct?

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defutura
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Post by defutura » Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:50 am

Well, you're going to need crimp pins (or whatever you call them), as well...

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