Power distribution - updated

Moog, Synthesizers.com, MOTM, Modcan, Moon and others..... Go big!

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JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Thu Oct 10, 2013 9:48 am

Hi Edi,
entresolmusic wrote:I wanted to add some Motm to my Portable cabinet. would this be the best way? MOTM-995 .COM Adapter Board (Do I just mount it somewhere in the back of the cbinet?)
That would be the simplest. Just mount the MOTM-995 to the back of your cabinet with some short spacers and plug in one of your DotCom power cables to it to give your MOTM modules power.
plus the cables MOTM PWR-20 ( is this one per module?)
Yes, one power cable from each MOTM module to the distribution board. :tu: The number at the end is the length, 20" or 30" etc


Now, if you want to save over half of what you would spend on the above but it would require you to do some DIY work that could cause problems if you don't do it correctly :eek: have a look at this thread: viewtopic.php?t=16488

For each MOTM module you would have to basically do the following:
1) cut off the MTA 0.100 connector on a spare DotCom power harness cable
2) attach a MTA 0.156 connector

The connectors are only $0.70 each or less:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/259068

The insertion tool is sort of expensive these days, almost $30 at the cheapest and some places charge $40 to $60! :eek: :omg: :despair: Some people get by just using a small screw driver and others just strip the ends and solder them. I have the tool and think it's worth the money if you are going to do several cables occasionally, but I only paid $19 for mine 4 years ago. Allied has them at the least expensive price I've seen currently:
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... U=70089840

From experience you guys find the Motm modules to be too long most of the time for a portable cabinet? or just some of them are longer.
They vary a lot in depth, some like the 310 VCO and 800 EG are very shallow, like 2" or so and some are deep, like 4.5" and some non Synth Tech brands are even deeper so check carefully before you buy!


Best of luck! 8_)

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Post by entresolmusic » Thu Oct 10, 2013 10:08 am

Hello John,

Thanks for the quick response on which power cables is needed.

I was thinking about doing them myself but I am not sure if I will be acquiring a lot of MOTM modules. I would mostly stay on Dotcom but since I have found some opportunities to build the modules I might just jump on one or two.

YesI was wondering on the depth since in Bridechamber they don't have it. I am mostly in need a of filters, probably a Ladder that I don't have and a Threller or Arp style too. There is just toooo many options! ( whats great about modulars)



I will look into it and plan a little more, Maybe MOTM modules might be the answer.


Thanks!


Edi

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:18 pm

I posted this in a new thread on the DIY section but I think a majority of people who might want this are 5U folks.

I found a pre-punched 1U panel with a IEC power inlet hole and two 1/4" jack holes! Very handy for back-of-the-rack DIY power inlet and maybe internally wire a final output mixer or what ever to the jacks on the back and run that to monitor speakers or external mixer etc.

http://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=R1283

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Post by debterminer » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:53 am

[nevermind i figured this out :> should have searched the forums more dilligently]

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fracmonkey
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Blacet PS800 and PSCONN3

Post by fracmonkey » Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:49 am

Blacet uses the 4 pin MOTM type connector so their PS and connector board is another option.

The following was posted to their mailing list:

"News from Blacet Research:

This is the fully contained PS800 with IEC power connector (cord supplied in US and Canada) and power switch. Compatible worldwide with no adjustments.

+/-15V @800/800 mA.

Six mounting holes compatible with old Frac Rak so it can be used as a replacement for the PS505.

One four pin power out connector. Use module power cord to connect to a distribution board such as PSCONN3 or PSCONN2 (optionally use PSCONN Cable for the PSCONN2--still available on request).

Now available to order.

The regular price is $139 but you can preorder for $119. Limit of 2 at this price.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?c ... B88ZX27FNR 2Q

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Powering COTK inside Dotcom Cabinet

Post by drob842 » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:24 pm

Hi All,

First post here. I've read the site pretty religiously for a few months, but have never posted.

I posted a question about powering COTK inside a Dotcom cabinet with an included QPS1. I finally found my answer at viewtopic.php?p=812492&sid=998fda67a6ee ... 8ac46132eb

Love this forum, but now I can't figure out how to delete this annoying, redundant question that I have posted. I can edit, but not delete.

JohnLRice

Re: Powering COTK inside Dotcom Cabinet

Post by JohnLRice » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:47 pm

drob842 wrote:Hi All,

Been reading this site pretty religiously for about 6 months, but this is my first post.
Welcome drob842! :party:

I have 44-spaces of Dotcom. I'd really like to add COTK modules to my Dotcom cabinet, but I'm wary about powering the modules.
Most COTK modules can be ordered with DotCom power headers so you can just plug them right in! :tu: Just be very clear when ordering that you want to power the modules from your +-15v Synthesizers.com power supply etc. When buying used COTK modules ask the seller what kind of power system the module is set up for.

Relatedly, are COTK the same dimensions as Dotcom - 8.75 tall x 2.125 wide?
Yes! 8_)

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Re: Powering COTK inside Dotcom Cabinet

Post by drob842 » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:53 pm

Thanks, JLR. You are the king. I have watched tons of your videos and seen your useful advice all over this board.

I'm planning to buy direct from the manufacturer, so I'll be sure Kazike knows that I would like to connect modules directly to the QPS1.

Thanks again.

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zmix
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Synthesizers.com Male to MOTM Female?

Post by zmix » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:47 am

I had to make these from parts to accommodate MOTM modules added to a Synthesizers.com setup.

Where can I find these commercially?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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Post by leanhnam220 » Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:19 am

Thanks for giving me interesting information
Tiny Tanks Unblocked

JohnLRice

Re: Synthesizers.com Male to MOTM Female?

Post by JohnLRice » Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:46 am

zmix wrote:I had to make these from parts to accommodate MOTM modules added to a Synthesizers.com setup.

Where can I find these commercially?
Did you ever find what you were looking for? Read the following thread for some similar ideas, especially the middle of page 2:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16488

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DIY dotcom distribution?

Post by exel » Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:13 pm

Ok, so I got Seb to build me two small cabinets to go with my 2P system, with space for 8 single width modules and a dotcom-compatible PSU. Of course, being a complete nEWb at MU, I never specified anything about power distribution. The options available from dotcom are for much larger cabinets with 20 modules. I'm not afraid to do a bit of DIY, but can someone help me out by telling me what tools and parts I would need to order to make my own distribution cable?

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Post by exel » Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:28 pm

Ok, I figued out the right MTA100 6 pins connectors to get a hold of. What remains is a way to make junctions. If I look at the standard dotcom cable tree, it seems they chose the shotgun approach by having a number of big-ass junction points, one for each relevant wire. Anything more elegant I could do? I'd rather end up with a single flatcable that is being tapped, but there doesn't seem to be a solution for that with MTA?

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:16 am

exel wrote:Ok, I figued out the right MTA100 6 pins connectors to get a hold of. What remains is a way to make junctions. If I look at the standard dotcom cable tree, it seems they chose the shotgun approach by having a number of big-ass junction points, one for each relevant wire. Anything more elegant I could do? I'd rather end up with a single flatcable that is being tapped, but there doesn't seem to be a solution for that with MTA?
If it was me I'd mount a little distribution board in each case, connect it to your power supply and then use double ended power cables between the distro board and the modules.

The new ones by Analog Craftsman look like they'd be perfect for you? :tu:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... t=#1947087

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exel
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Post by exel » Tue Aug 04, 2015 3:46 am

That looks exactly like what I should be going for. Thank you.

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Panel & Switch

Post by Mark11Audio » Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:50 pm

JohnLRice wrote:Yes, like Dave says. (not that you need my little old confirmation on SDIY Master Dave's word! :hail: )

On two of my supplies the commons for the +-15 and the +5 are connected together. And all of the Synthesizers.com power supplies must have it that way and the MOTM-995 .COM to MOTM adapter/distro board must have them connected together too. (Right PaulS??)

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Thanks to the brilliant JLR, and all of his great support and communication, and tips... :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:

here's the first of 3 panels for my PSU's. I have one more exactly like this and the center one is a "double-wide"... (no trailer trash jokes...) LOL

I'm just as OCD, so the wiring will be cut to length and cable tied as required. :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay: :yay:

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Plenty of room to get a finger in there for the mounting screws, nut and lock washer. :tu:
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I used black anodized hex-head M3 screws for the QualTek switch, it's all in the small details...
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JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Sat Aug 06, 2016 9:23 pm

Here's a slightly updated version of sonicwarrior's excellent comparison chart:

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Post by johny_gtr » Wed Jan 04, 2017 2:24 pm

I've just understood that I need a third case for my MU system.
I bought standard Power One haa15-0.8-AG for my second case and think that I will buy the same for third system.

Could you help me please and share your opinion - is there any difference between Bel, PowerOne, Condor, ... ? Maybe in terms of stability, reliability?

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Post by Ramases » Wed Jan 04, 2017 2:27 pm

johny_gtr

I've had PowerOne and Condor supplies in my 5U over the years. Both have been reliable and functioned without issue.

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Wed Jan 04, 2017 2:53 pm

johny_gtr wrote: is there any difference between Bel, PowerOne, Condor, ... ? Maybe in terms of stability, reliability?
I think PowerOne, Condor and International Power are all fairly identical as far as design, specs and quality go.

And there is no Power-One anymore because they were bought out / merged with Bel Power, so those two are identical. Bel Power kept the same products and model numbers and just replaced the "Power-One" stamp with a Bel Power one. :tu:

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Post by johny_gtr » Wed Jan 04, 2017 4:01 pm

JohnLRice wrote:
johny_gtr wrote: is there any difference between Bel, PowerOne, Condor, ... ? Maybe in terms of stability, reliability?
I think PowerOne, Condor and International Power are all fairly identical as far as design, specs and quality go.

And there is no Power-One anymore because they were bought out / merged with Bel Power, so those two are identical. Bel Power kept the same products and model numbers and just replaced the "Power-One" stamp with a Bel Power one. :tu:
Ramases wrote:johny_gtr

I've had PowerOne and Condor supplies in my 5U over the years. Both have been reliable and functioned without issue.

Thank you a lot!

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Post by johny_gtr » Sun Jan 29, 2017 4:21 pm

I've received PowerOne PSU. Sender described it as NOS but it's just used.
I've just found one interesting thing.

output connectors soldered together:
1) -out AND - s
2) +s AND com AnD -S
3) +s AND + out
It described as remote sense in instruction. And I don't know is it helpful or not in my case?:help:

I didn't do the same with my another PSU and all works fine.

Please let me know which variant is right for me and my purpose?

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sonicwarrior
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Post by sonicwarrior » Sun Jan 29, 2017 4:46 pm

johny_gtr wrote:I've just found one interesting thing.

output connectors soldered together
Not that interesting as that is described in the manual. If you build your power supply into the case you don't need the remote sense pins. They are meant to regulate voltage drops from long connections. The main application is when it's used as an external power supply.

If not used they should be connected like it has already been done with your power supply.

You should check the manual.
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JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:31 pm

johny_gtr wrote: output connectors soldered together:
1) -out AND - s
2) +s AND com AnD -S
3) +s AND + out
It described as remote sense in instruction. And I don't know is it helpful or not in my case?:help:

I didn't do the same with my another PSU and all works fine.

Please let me know which variant is right for me and my purpose?
I think the recommended method is to connect the sense poles directly to the output/common poles if remote sense lines aren't being used. That said, for the last eight years none of my sense poles have been connected to anything and the supplies have seemed to work fine.

Many years ago I was trying to get a definitive answer as to why it's better to connect them and what the difference might be in power supply stability/quality but never saw an answer, other than "just connect them". :hmm:

On my first few supplies I didn't connect them because information and discussion was scarce and as far as I could tell from pictures the Synth Tech MOTM supplies (which use Power-One units) the sense poles weren't connected to anything so I thought there shouldn't be any major negative impact by not connecting them? I did ask for owners factory MOTM supplies to left me know how they were configured and even asked Paul S but no one ever responded! :despair: :sadbanana:

Anyways, I recently had one of my supplies out of the case to do some distro board upgrades and I connected the sense poles while I was at it. I didn't take the time to do any before/after testing but I currently (no pun :mrgreen: ) need to build two more power supplies and I'll try to do some tests on at least one of them with sense poles not connected and connected and without a load and under an active load.

Long story short: at this point I don't think you'll notice any better or worse system performance with the sense poles connected or not.

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sonicwarrior
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Post by sonicwarrior » Sun Jan 29, 2017 6:13 pm

=> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sense_(electronics)
Many power supplies that are equipped with remote sense can cause catastrophic damage to the loads if they turned on while the sense leads are unconnected.
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