MU: Super Mini Modular synth project construction journal.

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Rex Coil 7
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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 4:36 pm

Panason wrote:Holy shit.

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Are you getting paid for this!!? :yay:
:lol: Pffft! Hardly! It's just a project I've had in my mind for several years (like twenty). Like many people, I've owned any number of synths over the years ... analogs, virtual analogs, samplers, romplers, computer VSTs, big giant performance oriented "slab synths", little bitty plastic "starter synths ... whatevers.

There was always stuff I didn't want or need in them, and always stuff I needed or wanted that wasn't in them. I yearned for a synth that had everything I wanted, and nothing I didn't want. Once I got into a little bit of Dot Com, I began looking over the innards, it became clear that the Dot Com catalog of modules was ridiculously easy to modify and repanel, with little or no soldering. Inspiration hit like a bolt of lightning, and design work began. Testing of various ideas went forward, sometimes to the point of total distraction. Then, construction started.

So that's where things are now .... construction phase. I had to take a break from assembling new panels to get some other aspects of this creature moving forward ... I'm trying to time everything's completion as best I can .. sortof like you plan out the timing of making an entire meal, you want everything ready at serving time.

There's been a short break in forward movement while I took time to sell some artwork (lost wax bronze castings of "the old west" scenes) in order to generate money for more stuffs. Well, after a few small "scores" in auction houses I've made a few bucks, and used the last three+ weeks ordering things and hunting down the best deals. It's more difficult than it seems, to be honest. Almost all of the parts/pieces/chunks/hunks of stuff have been purchased (80% or so) and are en route.

I'm adding two 16U rack cabs, 10U of 5U, 9U of Euro controllers (four Maths now, sixteen VCAs in the form of Doepfer "Quad VCA Mixers", and a few other toys). A new PSU (3 amp instead of the 1.5 amp Dot Com PSU), more Dot Com controllers to add to the keyboard, parts .. parts .. more parts, PCBs from Oakley and Manhattan Analog, pots, switches, more Hinton power cables, FX, sequencer, and more stuffs.

The break in construction has been healthy and productive. My mind was clouded with far too many ideas and notions, many many notes taken that needed sorting out and thinning out. Ideas needed refining.

So, back to it soon. Like this week. I'll be posting progress entries by next week, or perhaps the Sunday after next (I typically post updates on weekends).

Thanks for the props (you too *ranix). I usually don't reply to people's posts right away because folks tend to think I've posted an update any time this thread goes to the top and my name is on the post ... only to have those folks disappointed when they see it's just me answering some comments without any updates.

Thou shalt not cry wolf!

So apologies for any belated responses.

Anyhow, back to this Muffwiggler version of "The Iliad and The Odyssey" in a few more days, perhaps a week ... (a reference to a well known work by Homer ... that would not be Homer Simpson).

Thank you !!!!!! :tu:
Last edited by Rex Coil 7 on Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Never Quit, Die Falling Forward
5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:32 pm

Partial List - Just for posterity's sake here's a partial list of parts, pieces, components, items, and other stuffs either en route or in possession purchased over the previous three weeks. All of this stuff is paid for (unexpected windfall sale of some pieces of art paid for it). Duplicate items simply mean I bought more than one. All prices were totals including shipping costs, if any:

MISC LIST ....

- 4ea Oakley Dual VCA PCBs - $85.00
- 3ea Manhattan Analog DTM boards (Moog CP3 circuits) - $40.00
- Electro Harmonix - Ring Thing - $159.00
- Electro Harmonix Memory Man with Hazarai - $137.24
- Mackie 1202 VLZ3 mixer (for the 4 pickup Jazz bass) - $135.00
- Mackie 1202 VLZ3 Mixer - $109.90
- Rack ears for Mackie 1202 VLZ3 - $49.99.
- 2ea Doepfer A-135-1 VCA Mixer - ($176.00 each) = $352.00
- Doepfer A-135-1 VCA Mixer - $156.91
- Boss RC-1 Looper - $80.00
- Boss RC-1 Looper - $70.00
- Behringer FCB1010 MIDI foot controller - $119.95
- Ernie Ball VP Jr. 25k pedal - $67.00
- Ernie Ball VP Jr. 25k pedal - $60.00
- 5ea. Ernie Ball string repair kits for VP Jr. 25k mono - $25.75
- 4ea. Ernie Ball 25k pot kits for VP Jr 25K mono volume pedal $61.00.
- Behringer Composer Pro-XL MDX2600 dual channel compressor - $64.99
- Doepfer A-156 Dual Quantizer - $162.00.
- Arturia Beatstep Pro - $249.00
- Make Noise MATHS - $249.00.
- Make Noise MATHS - $245.00
- Middle Atlantic U4 (rack shelf for Hammond amplifier) $48.83.
- Middle Atlantic BRK16 (16U rack) - $65.00.
- Dot Com Q106, Q141, Q162, Q110 - (Miffwugglers member) - $330.00
- 2ea Dot Com QCR8 Rack Frames - eBay - $76.98 for the pair.
- Intellijel Dual ADSR - $182.50
- Nord Micro Modular (MiffWugglers member) - $300.00.
- Fuzz Face Mini (Joe Bonamassa ~black~) - $102.00
- Edirol Powered Speakers - Model 15D (MA15D) - $129.00
- Synthesis Technology - E355 Morphing Dual LFO - $207.85
- 14ea Hinton Instruments Euro power cables - $103.28.
- AJH Synth - V-Scale (eBay) - $129.00
- 2pcs Burndy K2A26U (double heavy lug) - $12.04
- 5pcs Burndy KA26U (single heavy lug) - $18.55
- 150pcs 1/4" eyelets (50 red, 50 yellow, 50 blue) $13.98

DOT COM ORDER (should arrive in about two or three weeks) ...
** Q182JS Joystick - $225.00
** BOX4 (for joystick and DIY controls) - $75.00
** One Walnut Side for BOX4 - $25.00
** Q182-RP20 (20 inch ribbon controller) - $520.00
** 10ea. QP-S16 switch assemblies (TWO 3-pin cable pigtails come on each one, total of TWENTY pigtail cables) - $6.00 each ($60.00).
---> EIGHT of those cable pigtails are needed to complete the QX675 Dual VCF module.
---> SIX of those cable pigtails are needed for the Ring Mod Mixer in the RC7-PFM.
---> SIX remaining are for "just in case".
** 1ea - QDH20 - 20 cable power harness ("squid") - $55.00
** 1ea - QPS3 - 3amp PSU - $275.00
** 6pcs Q133 - Quad Blank Panel (4space blank) - For MAIN CAB BACK PANELS - $23.00 each ($138.00).
** 4pcs Q131 - Single Space Blank - For MAIN CAB BACK PANELS - $12.00 each ($48.00).
** 20ea x one foot long x 1/4" Dot Com "B" patch cables to connect the Alesis EQ to a patch bay - $8.50 each - $170.00
** Q157 Sample Hold++ module - $192.00

Yet to go is finishing up assembling orders for Mouser "projects" and Small Bear items (pots, knobs, toggle switches, and components to complete the PCBs and FPD panels that are currently in-construction). Also need to purchase MIDI cables, mic cables, insert cables, other parts and pieces from sources such as Amazon, Reverb, Miffwugglers, and eBay. Total projected costs for remaining items comes to less than $1450.00. That figure is based on "street prices" rather than used prices, so there will be a lower total number when all is said and done. I tend to make ~fairly~ good buys ... negotiation is everything!

Most (if not all) of this will be covered in upcoming progress entries since it all is involved in the synth project in one way or another. As can be seen, there was a lot of stuff I needed, and a lot of stuff I elected to add to the project out of a sense of ~want~.

Told ya I had a lot going on!!

:tu:
Never Quit, Die Falling Forward
5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:04 am

KEYBOARD CONTROLLERS - DRY FIT OF THE ENTIRE RIG:

TWENTY ONE PICTURES, and a lot to get through. I'll try to make this work in one entry. And please forgive the absolute state of total MESS my studio is in ... no excuses, it just got out of control. And beg pardon for the blurry pictures ... crud on the camera lens (I think it was peanut butter or something).

WOO HOO!!!! BACK IN THE DAMNED SADDLE BABY!!!

A lot of gear has come in. All of it stuff needed to complete a long list of studio ideas I've had knocking around with revision after revision. So many notes, so many measurements. As I've mentioned previously, I sold some artwork which is what financed the procurement of the gear seen in a number of upcoming entries.

Let's get to it!

Keyboards #1 and #2:

The construction of the Super Keyboard Controller begins here. The one on the left is QKB61#2 ... it arrived with the BOX4, Q182-RP20 Ribbon Controller module, and Q182JS joystick already installed. The kybd on the right (QBK61#1) is the first one I bought roughly a year back, which I later installed a Q182-RP20 Ribbon Control directly to the walnut top, shedding the "stick" the ribbon is normally mounted to in the process. Also seen in the picture is the 2nd ribbon control, yet to be mounted.

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Closer look at the modules Roger mounted in the BOX4 ....

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So first step in creating the Super Kybd Controller was to remove the walnut top from Kybd #1 ... it needed to be mounted on Kybd #2. Six wood screws on the bottom (back?) of the walnut top is all that requires attention to remove the wooden top.

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Next, the new Ribbon "stick" had to be disassembled. This is as simple as removing two wood screws, one at either end of the walnut stick. Once they're removed, the stick, the 1/8" aluminum backing strip (with the graphics on it) and the ribbon controller itself come apart.

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Then the walnut top that was removed from Kybd#1 is placed on a work surface, and the 2nd ribbon control is placed on it to do a bit of layout prior to drilling the mounting holes for the ribbon. When I first mounted Ribbon #1 to the walnut top of Kybd #1 I knew that one day I would be adding a 2nd ribbon. So I purposely placed the first ribbon in a position which would accommodate a 2nd ribbon later on. Thinking ahead! The 2nd ribbon is not yet mounted in the picture below, it's just sitting on the walnut top.

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Using a bit of blue masking tape (to draw the drill hole marks on), a square, and a pencil the 2nd ribbon's mounting holes were laid out. I put a small piece of tape on the 1/16" drill bit to mark the depth (so I wouldn't drill through the walnut top), and then carefully pre-drilled the screw holes. The Bosch cordless drill I got for Father's Day got it's first use on this project!

Once the screw holes were predrilled, it was just a matter of placing the 2nd ribbon and aluminum backing strip, then screwing them down. It should be noted that the aluminum backing strip is marked on BOTH SIDES. The graphics are ~reversed~ from one another on each side, so you need to take care when mounting it to make sure the side you want facing up, is in fact, facing up. Once the ribbon control was screwed down, the walnut top from Kybd#1 was then mounted on Kybd#2. The reason I did that is because I wanted the ribbons to be on the Kybd that had the BOX4 mounted to it. Since Roger (unexpectedly) did that for me, some swapping around had to be done. Kybd#2 is specifically designed to be used with the Super Mini Modular ... the one without any extra goodies on it (Kybd#1) is to be used with the "MIDI Synth" side of my studio.

So here's how Kybd #2 is shaping up (still just a bit more to go) ....

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Here's the leftovers ....

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And here's how Kybd #1 ended up looking after all of the swapping of walnut tops went on (this kybd will be used with MIDI modules only) ....

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Ok, now the final touch for Kybd#2. After I mounted the ribbons to the walnut top, and mounted that top to Kybd#2, a little finishing touch was required to keep the control leads of both ribbons nicely gathered and routed. The ribbon control modules are mounted in the 12U "Utility Cab" pretty much directly in front of Kybd #2 so the control cables needed to be aimed that way. I used an Aircraft Grade stainless steel rubber lined loom, mounted to the walnut top using a stainless steel 1/4" x 28 Thread Per Inch allen head bolt, a few stainless flat/lock washers, and a stainless steel nut. Another hole had to be drilled in the walnut top .... this time a (very carefully placed!) 1/4" hole.

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The controller module for the 2nd ribbon was then mounted in the 12U Rack "Utility Cabinet" next to the controller module for the 1st ribbon. Next to the two ribbon controller modules (to their right) is one other module in the Dot com "Controllers" series, the Q181FJ Foot Pedal Interface. This module will accommodate a couple of foot switches (one momentary - one latching) as well as one of the Ernie Ball VP Jr foot controllers that I am modifying to optimize it for use with modular synth "pedal interface" modules. It's all part of a plan which will be detailed in another entry.

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That 12U rack "Utility Cabinet" will bolt directly to the Main Cabinet and the two cabs will essentially become one piece (both cabinets are already pre-drilled and all prepared to be bolted together, I showed that in a previous entry). Mating the two cabs together will be done when I'm ready to wire up the module power cables and connect the bus bars to the PSU. The UT Cab will also house a few more goodies, to include at least two "trunk line interface panels" (panels with jacks in them which facilitate connecting of external modulation and control sources to the internal trunk lines connected to modulation terminations inside of the Main Cab). There will also be a Q106/Q141 ensemble mounted in the UT cab which will be a sortof "master modulator" used with the BOX4 joystick and the ribbons. I've already acquired the ensemble from Member *bwhittington. I also need to get more blue knobs and yellow toggle caps!

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This Super Keyboard Controller was NOT cheap. All things considered it ends up right around $2,250.00. Ouch. But look at the list of control sources that are right at my hands ....

*** 61 key weighted synth action FATAR TP/9S keybed.
*** Attack Velocity.
*** Release Velocity.
*** Channel Pressure (aka "Mono Aftertouch").
*** Ribbon #1 location
*** Ribbon #1 pressure.
*** Ribbon #2 location.
*** Ribbon #2 pressure.
*** Joystick axis "X".
*** Joystick axis "Y".
*** Dual manual controllers (pots, haven't decided between rotary pots or linear pots just yet).

That's TWELVE control sources right there on the keyboard! So this setup's value as a real time performance controller is clear!

Plus foot controllers:

*** Expression Pedal (modified Ernie Ball "VP Jr." volume control).
*** Footswitch (both a latching switch and a momentary switch - clever wiring gets that done).
*** Behringer FCB1010 (to be use to control the Kenton Pro2000MkII).

There is a total of FIFTEEN real time CV controls, plus however many controls that Behringer FCB1010 offers (at least TWO expression pedals, plus like TEN foot switches, two of which control internal relays which have 1/4" jacks for use with any number of things).

Let's also acknowledge the Dot Com keybed may be split into FOUR zones, and it also has a MIDI MERGE jack. This feature set alone will mesh very well with the Kenton Pro2000MkII MIDI-to-CV converter I have which awaits mounting in the new 16U Euro cabinet. That Kenton also has it's own modulation sources (2 digital LFOs, MIDI clock, clock divisions, TWO 1v/oct and Gate channels, plus SIX more "aux" outs which may be configured in any number of ways). Add to that, it has 24 memory slots for storing different configurations. All of which may be accessed by the Behringer FCB1010 MIDI controller. Actually, there are TWO of those, the other one is dedicated to the MIDI synths on the other table.

BAD. ASS. SYSTEM.!!!! ~Yes~, I am proud of this rig!! It all took me a very long time to work it all out and configure it for my own needs. Now the fun begins, putting it all together!!!

DOES IT ALL FIT?

Something that has bugged the hell out of me since I sketched all of this stuff out was "will it all fit?". Yup! Sure does! Here's the "modular table" with nearly every single thing that will be on it, all mocked up. Of course, some stands, various mounting steps/shelves, and so on need to be designed and constructed (wood will do just fine for that). And keep in mind the 12U UT cab will be next to the Main cab, and a new 16U cab will be placed where you see the 12U cab in these pictures. I've shitcanned the "wedge cab" idea for mounting the Euro modules, they'll now be mounted in the new 16U cab where the 12U cab is seen now. So those Euro modules seen behind Kybd #2 won't be there. Kybd#2 will also be mounted up a little more, with some type of ~strip light~ (LEDs?) under the kybd to illuminate the Keystep, Beatstep Pro, and the Boss phrase looper. A Line 6 M13 is to be dedicated to the modular synth as it's primary FX unit. The M13 can be seen in other pics below.

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Here's how the "MIDI SYNTH TABLE" is working out. A bit more shuffling to go, but it's all going to fit rather nicely. Sharper eyed folks that have been following my adventures may have noticed the absence of the Kurzweil PC3A6. Yuppo ... it's been replaced. Long story that I won't go in to just now. Suffice it to say that it was replaced with a more "modular" MIDI system, seen here. (~Modular~ systems just make more sense).

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And of course, all of this stuff on top of that 12U carpeted 12U rack will be installed inside of the rack. I'm still working on audio cable routings, which module will go where, MIDI cable routings, and so on. Also going in that carpeted rack is an Alesis Datadisk that I'm modifying by adding one of them newfangled USB Floppy Drive Emulator drives (an "HcX"). The HcX USB drive is replacing the 3.5" floppy drive in the Datadisk, so now I can back up SYSEX files to a thumb drive without using a computer! How cool is that!?!. Those Lexicon MX200 FX modules are sure a lot of fun, they sound really nice as well. Bought the pair for $200.00 shipped! That E-MU Audity (it's a ver2) has SIXTEEN arpeggiators (one for each MIDI channel). The arps were a huge reason behind it's addition to my rig, and since it's a Ver2 it also sounds great ($300 shipped). And so far I LOVE LOVE LOVE that Yamaha TG500 ($250 shipped). I already had the Roland 1x5 MIDI splitter (since 1991). Also picked up is a pair of Kenton MIDI Thru 5 boxes. So tiny, so useful! Also not in these pictures is a pair of 32 jack patch bays, which will be sorely needed for patching all of this stuff up and patching it all to the 12ch Carvin mixer, as well as patching it to outboard FX (that Ring Thing is a blast, as is the EHX "Hazarai" delay). Can't forget about the Nord Micro Modular either. That is a very important and key piece of this MIDI rig.

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LASTLY, NEW POWER FOR THE MODULAR:


I've upgraded the power supply for the Super Mini Modular. I've been using a Dot Com QPS1 for a few years. It's sufficient, but I wanted to double the power spec against my actual power draw. So a QPS3 was acquired. 3.0 amps of current per 15 volt rail. That's double what the QPS1 specs out to. (The QPS1 is for sale ... see my sig).

The new QPS3 fits on the same mounting blocks I installed in the 12U UT cab for the original QPS1 PSU. Just needed to drill new mounting holes in those blocks, done deal! I'll be posting an entry on mounting the bus bars inside of the 12U UT cab, as well as mounting bus bars and everything else in the new 16U Euro cab (already have the 3 amp 12v PSU, the bus bars are cut, the mounting blocks are cut ... it all needs to be finished up). That 16U cab cost me ... ready? ... $32.00 shipped!

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Ok, I actually managed to get all 21 pictures jammed into this entry. I have received SO MANY parts and components over the last two months, that said there's a shit-ton more entries in this project photo journal to come.

BIG FUN ON THE WAY, YEA?

It feels like the phase of depression I have been stuck in over the last several (six!) months is lifting. I tell ya, when that shit kicks in, any motivation I have for doing anything simply evaporates. I'm beginning to feel ~good~ again, and I can tell the forward velocity is starting to return, the engines are revving back up, and things will begin moving ahead here. Ill be far more busy building my synth, rather than annoying the hell out of everyone with posting inn the forum.

yaaayyy .... :roll:

Be well, be happy, and be synthin' ... :tu:

Adios mangs. :cookiemonster:
Never Quit, Die Falling Forward
5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Fri Aug 17, 2018 8:03 am

:hail:

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Post by hsosdrum » Fri Aug 17, 2018 6:57 pm

Rex, YOU ROCK!!!

:tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:
:sb: :sb: :sb: :sb: :sb: :sb: :sb:
:goo: :goo: :goo: :goo: :goo: :goo: :goo: :goo: :goo:

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Post by ranix » Sat Aug 18, 2018 3:35 am

Rex Coil 7 wrote:Also going in that carpeted rack is an Alesis Datadisk that I'm modifying by adding one of them newfangled USB Floppy Drive Emulator drives (an "HcX"). The HcX USB drive is replacing the 3.5" floppy drive in the Datadisk, so now I can back up SYSEX files to a thumb drive without using a computer! How cool is that!?!.
Super cool!

I use one of those Gotek drives in my Atari too, they're great. There's a program called "HxC2001" for the Mac that lets you use weird disk formats for really weird computers and early audio equipment.

It's a pretty cool device. It's basically an stm32 microcontroller connected to the floppy connector on one side and the usb stick on the other, and it just pretends to be a floppy drive. I love it

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Post by Flareless » Sat Aug 18, 2018 4:22 am

Rex, I don't have the words man :hail:

Please settle for Freaking Incredible
Rich

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What can this strange device be? When I touch it, it gives forth a sound - Neil Peart

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Fri Aug 24, 2018 2:07 pm

(Thanks tons for the great responses, guys!!) :nod: :spin: :hug:

AMP RACK - STUDIO OVERVIEW:

Just a short update that addresses the whole synth studio's overall health and welfare (so to speak).

THE AMP RACK ... FINALLY!


After literally years of wanting to set up a steel rack for the amps and speaker cabs so all of the sound comes from one direction ... I located an 18" deep x 72" tall x 60" wide steel rack that would suit the purpose perfectly. Ordered in, and picked up at Home Depot, total cost with state taxes added was $136.00. It's the same general type of steel racking I use for my synth racking, but those are 24" deep x 72" tall x 72" wide.

*** The cabs/amps labeled "Rack Synths/Drums" are actually fed by the Main Mixer, which is what is used to gather up everything and create a Main Mix which ultimately would be sent to the audio interface and computer for recording.

*** The cabs/amps labeled "Hammond" are fed by the "Organ/Modular Synth mixer". That mixer sends signals to the speakers used as monitors, but that mixer also sends a L/R feed to the Main Mixer.

*** The small amp/cabs cover the upper mids and high end. This is just a pair of Edirol 15 watt computer/desk monitors which work well for producing the highs and upper mids.

*** The little Marshall guitar amps cover the "upper rotor" sounds of the dual Leslie simulators I use (Boss RT-20). Marshall amps have a pronounced mid range character which works VERY well with Hammond sounds. Hammond sounds are all about the midrange, and these little Marshall amps bring that in spades. I paid an average price of $55.00 per amp ($110 for the pair) .. shipped! Both look nearly brand new. These really work great for the "dual Leslie" sound I've wanted to produce for a very very long time. Of course they require low end support, but the fact that these little guitar amps produce almost exactly the same freq range as the upper rotor of a Leslie makes them work super great for that purpose. There's a crossover network in a Leslie with an 800hz cutoff point. That said, you can see how using two (very VERY LOUD) little Marshall amps would work well for simulating the dual Leslie sound.

*** The Roland KC150 covers the sortof low end all the way up to the upper midrange. This cab/amp works really well to fill in the midrange that has a tendency to become lost with modern studio monitors. Most modern monitors are voiced with a sortof "scooped" EQ curve ... midrange presence is reduced. This Roland KC150 works well to fill that back in. Years ago I disconnected the tweeter because it was just TOO present. So there's just the 12" speaker doing all the work in there now.

*** And of course the two bass cabs cover the really low stuff. The bass cabs are fed by a specific bass mixer (Mackie 1202VLZ3) which is a 12ch mixer. That mixer is used for mixing the 4 pickup feeds from the modified 4 pickup Jazz bass. Since there are 4 left over stereo tracks left unused in the mixer it is also used to accept feeds from the Hammond mixer and the Main mixer to cover the low end stuff produced by all of the synths and the drums, as well as the Hammond.

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DUAL LESLIE RIGGING: Here's the dual Leslie simulator rig I've cooked up. The signal attenuator is at the far right (little silver box with a knobless pot). Signal goes from there into a Line 6 M13, which is programmed with a Dimension D chorus, a ring mod, an EQ, and a distortion of choice ... all in series. The signal leaves the M13 in stereo where the L/R signals are sent as two mono signals, one to each Leslie sim which are in parallel with one another. The four Leslie simulator signals are then mixed down to a L/R feed (in the "Hammond mixer") which is then subjected to the Boss RE-20 Space Echo. The Leslie sims are hard panned, which produces the left/right panning of the "rotary" effect. That hard panned Left/Right rotary signal is sent to the Marshalls. It's is also remixed together in the 4ch mixer built into the Roland KC150 for use as midrange frequency support.

The M13 will be mounted in the open space to the right of the first Leslie simulator in that ~gap~. The white Boss thing is just to temporarily distribute power to the Leslie sims and the Space Echo. Once that's out of the way there will be plenty of room for the M13. I'll be building an angled stand for all of that stuff so it's all facing me when I'm playing the Hammond.

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MIXERS:
I'm in-process of negotiating a deal on a Mackie 1642VLZ3 which will take over duties as the Main Mixer. The trusty Carvin 12ch that I've been using for years will be placed on Hammond/modular Synth mixing detail. The Mackie will sit where you seethe Carvin now, and the Carvin will be placed beneath the Mackie in the open space the left of the MIDI kybd which is near the synth rack on the right hand bench/table. (see pic below).

I have bought soooo mannnyyy XLR and TS/TRS cables lately to patch this whole mess together!

STUDIO AZURA: Lastly, here's an overview of how things are beginning to come along, whole-studio-wise. It took me two days to get the amp rack put together and loaded, and I've been working on the modifications for the Ernie Ball VP Jr volume pedals to convert them into expression pedals for the modular synth project. So things are still a mess, but it all comes together one piece at a time!

To put it all together inside your head, the Amp Rack is just to my right when I shot the overview picture (it's out of frame on the right). The whole rig forms a 10 foot by 13 foot ~square~ when measured on the outside of all of the steel racks. The steel racks and their contents have created a really nice audio dead zone (very little reverb produced by the walls). It just feels so nice and cozy in there, welcoming and private all at once. There's a certain type of warmth and security being within the space produces.

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So there's what I've been doing over the last few days. Now, it's back to the soldering bench and putting racks together and ... and ... and .....


Oy. :eek:

Thanks folks!

:tu:
Never Quit, Die Falling Forward
5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:50 am

MODIFIED ERNIE BALL VP Jr VOLUME PEDAL (for use with Dot Com Q181FJ):

Welcome back my friends to the show (that seems to never end!). The continuing saga of the Super Mini Modular project.

Well hello mens, five months and roughly 2,300 views have passed since my last update. Odd how there are 2,300 more views since my last entry, but no more comments ... Meh, everwhat.

Anyhow, I've come to accept that I go through these manic/depressive waves that seem to last anywhere between six months to over a year at each end of the pendulum's swing. I am clearly re-entering another manic phase (I call them "productive phases"). I just seemed to have popped into wakeness just a few days ago. ~CLICK!~ ... the depressive phase simply ended, just that fast. The joys of manic depression combined with combat related PTSD as well as a decade of pain meds to deal with a permanent nerve trunk injury in my neck. Oh the joy, indeed. (not even ... shit!).

Enough of that .... movin' on ....

Having been away from my workbench for just short of six months, I started with something small that would produce quick results and a promptly delivered sense of accomplishment to get the mental turbos spinning up before I jump into more heavy duty tasks. That task I selected was to modify one of my three Ernie Ball VP Jr. 25k mono volume pedals to be compatible with the Dot Com Q181FJ. The Q181FJ ("FJ" = "Foot + Jack") is a control module within the Q181 Controller Series. It is designed to accept expression pedals and foot switches. It can handle both at once.

WEB PAGE LINK = https://www.synthesizers.com/q181fj.html

It's visible on the right of this row of "Interfaces", next to the module with the red knob (it seems funny how every one of those modules has the word "Interface" in their names on the panels, HAHA!) ...

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When I first took delivery of the Q181FJ I tested it out with a stock Ernie Ball VP Jr 25k volume pedal and I didn't quite like the way everything was working together ... more like was not working together. The response curve just didn't work in a linear/controllable fashion. Not much response right off of the heel position, still not much halfway through the sweep of the treadle ... then suddenly a large jump in output from the Q181FJ during the last 20% of the treadle's sweep to the toe position. Yuk ass!

I took a few measurements of the volume pedal's resistance and discovered that the 25k pot in the pedal was most likely an A25K. Hmmm ... nope.

I know that the Q142 Pedal Interface module responds very well to a B10K pot, so I tested a B10K with the Q181FJ and that seemed to work far better. So the answer was clear ... remove the A25K pot from the Ernie Ball VP Jr. 25k volume control and replace it with a B10K pot. Yea, right ... easier said than done (I was to discover). If it were as easy as all that, then bing bang boom done. But noooooo .... it turned out that the pot had to have a very long pot shaft to accommodate the brass sintered/sandblasted pulley that mounts on the pot shaft. The pulley has a string wound around it so when the treadle is swept from heel to toe the string will turn the pot shaft and change the resistance of the pot (just the same as using a knob to turn a pot).

So I went on this quest to locate a high quality pot in the B10K configuration that had a long pot shaft that was not splined or split. I had to actually post a thread to recruit help locating one.

LINK = viewtopic.php?t=204247&highlight=

Long made short I found the magic bean needed to tackle this problem. Bourns makes the exact right pot I needed for this. At the time, these pots were new items, and Mouser was only stocking small amounts of a select few resistances. Mouser had the B10K, so I bought SIX of them. When they arrived it was clear why they cost $7.86 each .. plus shipping! Check the specs:

** Bourns PDF241-S425S-103B0
** 24mm outer diameter (same size and the large Dot Com pots).
** 15mm long smooth round 6mm slotted shaft (perfect!).
** 10mm long threaded barrel (another perfect!).
** B10K.
** No detents.
** Estimated life is 1 million cycles (dayum!).
** Carbon Element.

Yea ... $7.86 each plus shipping. But check those life cycles yo!! 1 Million!! Check the link to the other thread I posted above for more details on the pot itself.

When they arrived, I opened the bag and as per human nature I tested the feel of how the shaft spun. Holy shit, I've never felt a pot that turned so smoothly that didn't have any wiggle/wobble. None! And the finish on the shaft is centerless ground ... check the pic (Replacement Alpha A25K from Ernie Ball on the left, the new Bourns B10K on the right).

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The fit inside of the shaft collar is so good, due to the centerless ground finish of the shaft. Bourns is able to make a much better fit because the shaft is so precisely sized. Bourns also used a pot shaft made of far better material with a greater hardness than what your buck standard Alpha pot has. The set screw in the brass pulley barely left a signature in the Bourns shaft, but in the Alpha shaft the set screw dug in and left more than just a signature, I'd go as far as calling it "damage". The more I worked with the Bourns pot the less I objected to the $7.86 cost per unit.

It was clear (by just doing a visual inspection) that the Bourns threaded barrel was larger in diameter than the Alpha pot that Ernie Ball fits these volume pedals with. This meant that the mounting block that the pot fits into would require some machining (a fancy ass word for drilling out). That wasn't a huge surprise since I'd spec'd out the Bourns pot before buying them, so I already knew that the mounting block may require some work. But I wasn't totally sure about that until I had one in my hand. I got out the manual calipers and took a few measurements. I had some replacement Ernie Ball 25k pots on hand that I'd purchased for maintaining the volume pedals I had bought, so I took to measuring.

** A25k Alpha threaded barrel Outer Diameter = 0.270 inches.
** B10k Bourns threaded barrel Outer Diameter = 0.345 inches.


I set them aside and took to disassembling the pedal, preparing it for modification. As I took the pedal apart, and removed the pivot pin from the treadle, I could see that reassembly was going to be very tricky. VERY tricky. Especially refitting the stainless steel pivot pin into place since it used a washer stack on each side that had very little room between the pivot blocks of the treadle and the pivot blocks of the base. I reckoned I'd deal with that when it came time to put it all back together.

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After disassembling the pedal and removing the pot mounting block I measured the hole for the pot barrel:

** Ernie Ball VP Jr 25k pot mounting block barrel hole inner diameter = 0.274 inches ... roughly 0.004 inches larger than the stock A25k pot's barrel.

Since the Bourns B10k pot threaded barrel had an OD of 0.345", the mounting block would require a hole of roughly 0.350" to 0.355". So the task became locating a drill bit of that size in my massive collection of drills that I'd accumulated over the decades. Seriously, I have about one thousand drills! So I set about digging through all of them with caliper in hand to locate what I needed.

Now, this never happens to me .... ever .... but the 3rd drill I pulled from the toolbox .... beat up and ugly ... measured 0.358". Holy shit ... I was all set to spend an hour or so at this. Third one! And it was in serviceable condition! Not too dull, a little beat up (but still usable) .... more importantly it was straight, had good cutting edges, and it was a "boring drill" that has the correct type of cutting edges along it's length for increasing an existing hole size (rather than drilling a new hole). The perfect bit ... third one out of the damned box! It had to be 25+ years old, I bet I used it a dozen or so times before on long forgotten jobs. Banging around in a toolbox with a thousand other drills over the decades, and it still had an edge after all of that torture. As can clearly be seen in the picture, the cutting edges had some chips and nicks from being stored loosely banging around in a toolbox with other drills. But that edge was just barely good enough to get it done! You can see that at some point it had slipped in the chuck and buffed the part that fits in the chuck ... but again, that drill was in just good enough shape to pull off the job, with probably a few dozen more jobs left in it's life to go!! Here's a set of "before and after" shots of the pot block. It's also a good opportunity to really see that wonderful centerless ground finish on the pot shaft of the Bourns pot compared to what an Alpha pot's shaft looks like. MAJOR difference between the two, wouldn't you say? The smooth finish of the Bourns pot shaft lends to a nice tight seal between the shaft and the barrel, keeping Der Krap-n-shitz out of the pot and providing an immensely smoother spin. A test fit of the brass pulley also proved to be much more snug than the Alpha which keeps the pulley better centered and creating less off-center concentricity. In English, "it just works better".

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I mounted the block in the drill press, chucked up the beat-ass drill, and slathered some automatic transmission fluid made for GM transmissions on the drill and the part. "Type F" fluid for ford auto transmissions won't work, it must be auto trans fluid for GM transmissions because it has more lubricity than "Type F" and other properties that prevent aluminum from building up on the cutting edges of the bit ... which in turn prevents what is known as "gauling" the aluminum part. One of those things you learn after years of metalworking. I powered up the drill press and bored the hole in the block ... fortunately Ernie Ball uses high quality aluminum in their volume pedals, that block took to machining really well. After boring the hole, I used a bevelling taper to cut a nice finish bevel on both sides of the enlarged hole. Job done!

Cleaned up the part and went back inside to continue the job. I put that magic drill bit in the same box that I have the repair parts and the other five Bourns pots so that the next pedal I modify will have the right drill at the ready.

Image



Next up, I mounted the stock A25k pot and the new Bourns B10k in a small vice, desoldered the wires from the stock pot one at a time, and soldered each wire into place on the Bourns B10k pot, also one at a time. Doing each wire one at a time prevents soldering them into the incorrect place on the new pot.




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I mounted the Bourns pot into the block, and put the rest of the parts that went on the block in place as well. I mounted the assembly into place in the base of the pedal, and everything fit beautifully without any clearance issues.



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Next, the dreaded reassembly of the treadle to the pedal base. This took some doing. After about a half an hour of struggling with fitting those washer stacks into place while refitting the pivot pin, I stopped, took a few breaths, and rethought my approach. I knew that those pivot blocks had to be held into place by a pair of screws, very much like the way the pot mounting block was held into place. I sat and thought about how these pedals must be assembled at the factory ... how did it all go together during assembly? Then it hit me that those pivot blocks must have been installed before the "skateboard tape" on the top of the treadle, there was really no other way to do it! With those pivot blocks left loose, it would be simple to fit the washer stacks on the pivot pin .... THEN install the pivot block screws into the pivot blocks second. I had to peel back some of the skateboard tape from the treadle top to access the pivot block screws, but I only needed to remove one side (one pivot block) to install the pivot pin and the washer stacks. So I did exactly that, and it went together all hinky dinky perfect.

Now to put the string back into place.
About a year ago I saw a video by Ernie Ball about how to install the replacement string and spring into one of their volume pedals. So I hunted up the video and watched it a few times, replaying certain sections to get the method down pat. I gotta say, that video REALLY helped to get that done. It took me about five tries to get it done properly, but once I got it done it came out really great!!!

[video][/video]

You can tell this is the Bourns pot installation and the completed string installation since the new pot may be identified by the machined ~slot~ in the end of the pot shaft. And in the second shot below you can see (ever so slightly) the contact cement that I had to use to re-adhere the "skateboard tape" to the treadle after reassembling the pedal (which I've explained in greater detail below these pictures). So what you're looking at is the post reassembly "re-string" job I did ... not too shabby, yea?

Patience .... lots of patience, work slowly, don't let frustration get the best of you, and go in knowing you will have to take a few whacks at it, maybe even a half dozen shots at it! Just take your time, and work carefully.

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Next task, the skateboard tape needed to be reglued
after peeling back about four inches of it to gain access to the pivot screws. I used some Scotch 3M 77 spray on contact cement. I masked off portions of the treadle with "3M Blue" masking tape to prevent slop from getting to places I didn't want it to go. I sprayed a puddle of the 77 contact cement on a paper plate, then used a "Q-Tip" (aka "cotton bud" in the UK) to paint some contact cement to both the skateboard tape and the surface of the treadle.

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Allowed the cement to "tack up" for about five minutes before sticking the skateboard tape to the treadle, then once the contact cement was properly tacky, I pressed the skateboard tape down to the treadle. I placed a masked off block of wood on the treadle and clamped the wood down tightly on the skateboard tape and left it to dry for about two hours. Why "two hours"? ... well even though the contact cement was probably totally ~set~ inside of twenty or thirty minutes, when I had to peel back the skateboard tape to deal with the pivot block that effort stretched the skateboard tape out of shape a little bit. So by leaving it clamped for a couple of hours it helped to "reshape" the stretched skateboard tape and assure a good looking completion. Look at the pics, judge for your own damn se'f ....

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A wee bit of contact cement is visible along the edge of the skateboard tape, and there's a teensy smudge of contact cement visible on the surface of the treadle, near the heel (it's a sortof light spot about the size of a fingerprint) ..

:roll: :whistle:

All in all, the whole job came out just great. I now have a super tough, highly rebuildable expression pedal for use with my modular synth. If you look at the pedal carefully you can just barely see a teensy bit of contact cement on the one edge of the skateboard tape. I'm very happy with how good the entire job came out.

In the three pictures the first one is the "BEFORE MODS" picture. The next two shots are the "AFTER MODS". You can see the tiny bit of contact cement along the left edge of the skateboard tape in the two "after" pictures (along with the smudges of contact cement on the surface of the skateboard tape from sloppy workmanship) ... and in the "before" shot (first picture) there's no evidence of contact cement. Not too bad of a job if I say my own damned se'f ...

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The top picture of the group above is what it looked like BEFORE I did the whole job. You can barely tell which is which other than the tiny bit of contact cement showing itself in the bottom two pictures!

I just love how long and smooth the sweep is on these Ernie Ball units. The sweep is longer than the Moog EP units, and FAR longer than your average "Cry Baby Wah" pedal. The longer sweep makes them more controllable with your foot/ankle than the short sweep designs. The only other thing needed to make them compatible with Dot Com Q181FJ or Dot Com Q142 is that an "insert cable" must be used with the pedal. An insert cable has a Tip/Ring/Sleeve plug on one end, then the cable splits (like a "Y" cable) so there is a Tip/Sleeve plug on each of the two ends of the "Y". One of the TS plugs is connected to the Tip of the TRS plug, the other TS plug is connected to the Ring of the TRS plug. Using this type of cable with an Ernie Ball volume control pedal that has one input and one output "converts" the pedal into an expression pedal that has a TRS plug on the end that plugs into the controller module in the synthesizer. It works perfectly!

Only thing to watch for is if you plug all of this in and the pedal seems to be working all funky, most likely you'll need to swap the two TS plugs in the "input" and "output" of the volume pedal. I know it seems as though it shouldn't matter which of the two Tip/Sleeve plugs is inserted into the input/output jacks of the volume pedal .... BUT IT DOES!! So if you set one of these up with the insert cable and you're hearing fonky results, swap the positions of the two Tip/Sleeve plugs. I learned that through experience.

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These Ernie Ball volume pedals are SO MUCH MORE DURABLE than the plastic Moog EP2 or EP3 pedals, and these are fully rebuildable. They may also be modified for other uses as well. I reckon this expression pedal will outlive me.

Total cost of the pedal itself, and the Bourns B10k pot comes to roughly $75.00. I bought three of those same models of volume pedals one at a time on eBay as they popped up ("new open box" saved me roughly 50% on each pedal), one of which I modified as shown in this entry. I have six string/spring repair kits on hand, six Ernie Ball A25k pot replacement kits that include a new brass pulley, and five more Bourns B10k pots on hand as well. I'm all set when it comes to expression pedals or volume controls!!!

This "military grade" expression pedal is just one more component within the "super controllers" I've concocted for use with the synth. The pedal is an excellent match with the dual ribbon controller equipped QKB61 keyboard with joystick that I put together and showcased previously in this thread. It's all part of the entire instrument!

Yet to go:
** fitting the bus bars to the Euro "modulation cabinet".
** mounting the power supplies in the Euro cab and the 12U "utility cabinet".
** connecting the power cables from the bus bars to the modules.
** completing the QX675 Multi Circuit Dual VCF panel.
** wiring up all of the normalized back-panel connections for the VCOs and VCFs.
.... plus plenty more. At least six months of work to go yet when you include putting together the "Modular Computer" (see link to that thread in my signature). I'm going to do my absolute best to really take full advantage of this current "productive phase" I'm in and manage my energy to get as much done as I possibly can (maybe even completing this project as well as the others I've got going on). So plenty of fun coming!!!

Ok folks .... since I'm feeling so much better there will be more regular updates coming. What's next? Who fekkin' knows? One thing for sure it will be something to do with the ......

..... SUPER MINI MODULAR!

Later, Cats ~n~ Kittens ....

:cookiemonster:
Never Quit, Die Falling Forward
5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Sun Jan 20, 2019 2:21 pm

:yay: :goo: :sb: :tu: :eyes: :nana: :hail: :cloud: :driving:

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Post by Flareless » Sun Jan 20, 2019 3:35 pm

Awesome work Rex!!! :sb:
Rich

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What can this strange device be? When I touch it, it gives forth a sound - Neil Peart

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Post by Eric the Red » Sun Jan 20, 2019 7:42 pm

Sorry for not commenting, we were all paying attention to the other news coming out of AZ...

https://www.abc15.com/news/region-north ... -flagstaff
Abandon all hope, ye who wiggle.

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Sun Jan 20, 2019 8:10 pm

JohnLRice wrote::yay: :goo: :sb: :tu: :eyes: :nana: :hail: :cloud: :driving:
:tu:
Flareless wrote:Awesome work Rex!!! :sb:
Thankies mangs. :mrgreen:
Eric the Red wrote:Sorry for not commenting, we were all paying attention to the other news coming out of AZ...

https://www.abc15.com/news/region-north ... -flagstaff
:lol: We gots the best tastin' roads in the whole dayum country yo!

I didn't mean that any of the goodfolk in the 5U subforum didn't comment, I was just surprised to see 2,300 views since August and not one of those 2,300 viewers had a word to say.

That says more about the content (or lack thereof) in this thread than it says about anyone in the membership. I need to work on more content ... or perhaps better said, I need to work on creating richer content.

Over the previous five months I got around quite a bit within the forum's nooks and crannies that I normally don't venture out to. I reckon folks new to this project saw the link in my signature for this project, banged the link, and then went ... "Meh ... just another 5U middle aged dood with a ponytail showin' off his Big Knob crud".

:lol: :lol: :lol:

And by the way, my hair is two feet long again. No pony. Nope.

maybe .... :roll:



:pbear:
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5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

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Post by Rex Coil 7 » Mon Aug 26, 2019 1:14 pm

Hello my 5U compatriots. :nod:

I'm taking a break from active participation in Muffwigglers for a while. There are negative elements within the air that are severely irritating my allergies. I'm presently going through a months-long procedure involving the nerve injury in my neck, which we hope will free me from pain management and allow me to lead a more normal life. Those allergens are getting in the way of proper recovery, which will hopefully be completed by the beginning of 2020.

On occasion I'll monitor the air quality to see if it's within my level of tolerance to specific allergens. Should that occur I'll be glad to come in a play again.

If any of you fellas wish to contact me (for whatever reasons) use bamco60@hotmail.com to do so, I'll be more than happy to hear from you as well as respond. Per usual protocols please put some Muffwigglers reference in the subject line so your correspondence will not be ignored as junk mail.



You guys are the best. :hug:



Love and bullets, Rexy.




:bananallama:
Never Quit, Die Falling Forward
5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

JohnLRice

Post by JohnLRice » Mon Aug 26, 2019 2:26 pm

Be well Rex! :hug:

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Post by ranix » Mon Aug 26, 2019 10:18 pm

RIP Rex

Hopefully someday soon they will invent some antihistamines that are effective against these irritants.

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UPDATE:

Post by Rex Coil 7 » Sun Oct 13, 2019 4:21 am

Phase 1 of the procedure to help fix my neck went well.

Phase 2 also went fairly well.

Phase 3 was a complete failure and actually set things back to Phase 1 again.

It's a new, rather experimental thing to help re-route the nerve signals around the severely damaged brachial plexus nerve trunk on the right side of my neck. That trunk is about the same diameter as a person's thumb. It's a bundle of nerves that are "trunked" together on each side of the neck.

Think of a tree ... there are roots, a trunk, and branches. The branches are what fan out over the entire side of the face, over the side of the head, and over the top of the head ending behind the eyeball. The "roots" end of the bundle travel/spread out over the shoulder, down the back near the shoulder blade, and also are routed down the arm terminating it the two smallest fingertips.

My injury is right where those thousands of nerves are "zip tied" (if you will) together into a trunk line that goes down the right side of my neck, under the collarbone. Remember when Mr. Spock would do that "Vulcan nerve pinch" thing? He was applying severe amounts of pinching pressure on the brachial plexus, producing a "high voltage stun effect".

So this new-ish modified procedure is designed to allow the nerve impulses to re-route themselves around the permanently torn/ripped trunk line (the Brachial Plexus). It's a 5 phase process. If the surgeon doesn't do each stage correctly it actually creates more damage ... which is where I'm at now. It's a very precise process. All goes well and I'll be off of pain management drugs completely ... well, at least off of the narcotic type of drugs anyhow. It's been ten years now since I was put on those damned things.

So there's the update. I still hope to be able to be a productive member of this forum by about January of 2020. I really want to be a positive member around here.

I'm not logging in, so if you wish to communicate with me please use bamco60@hotmail.com ... please put some sort of Muffwigglers reference in the subject line so your message doesn't get overlooked as spam.

Thanks fellers.

Rexy.

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Post by Flareless » Sun Oct 13, 2019 5:41 am

I hope you have a speedy and easy recovery Rex.
Rich

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What can this strange device be? When I touch it, it gives forth a sound - Neil Peart

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Re: MU: Super Mini Modular synth project construction journal.

Post by umma gumma » Tue Dec 24, 2019 6:51 pm

hey Rex, Merry Christmas, and all the best for a recovery in 2020!

:sb:

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Re: MU: Super Mini Modular synth project construction journal.

Post by Dr. Sketch-n-Etch » Tue Dec 24, 2019 9:11 pm

DITTO! Merry Christmas, Rex Coil 7. I hope your medical adventures are proceeding satisfactorily, and that you are back with us very soon, thrilling us with your amazing builds and repairs. I just had a big long look (and read) of your pedal repair, and I'm impressed. I have one of those pedals lurking around here somewhere, and you have inspired me to have a look at it and see if it couldn't benefit from a hot new pot injection.

BTW, the new 12mm Alpha pots I ordered from Small Bear look more like those fancy Bourns pots than the old Alpha pots. The overall quality is obviously much higher, and the shank requires a 3/8" hole (unlike the 5/16" or 1/4" required of the older ones). Maybe Alpha took a leaf from Bourns's book. And they were about a buck each.
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Re: MU: Super Mini Modular synth project construction journal.

Post by McMij » Fri Jun 12, 2020 5:25 pm

I know it's been a while, but I thought I'd say that I've spent the past 5/6 (more?) hours reading and heavily, heartily enjoying this thread. It is so informative and descriptive and inspiring, it's really unlike any other build logs etc. I've ever read. It really sucks to hear how things have been on your end Rex, but I thought I'd post this to say thanks, really genuinely so - I can only wish you a hopefully not too prolonged recovery :hug:

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Re: MU: Super Mini Modular synth project construction journal.

Post by Rex Coil 7 » Sat Jun 13, 2020 2:46 am

McMij wrote:
Fri Jun 12, 2020 5:25 pm
I know it's been a while, but I thought I'd say that I've spent the past 5/6 (more?) hours reading and heavily, heartily enjoying this thread. It is so informative and descriptive and inspiring, it's really unlike any other build logs etc. I've ever read. It really sucks to hear how things have been on your end Rex, but I thought I'd post this to say thanks, really genuinely so - I can only wish you a hopefully not too prolonged recovery :hug:
What a nice thing to say! Thank you! Timing is pretty spot on as I was just now logging in to post in this very thread. I've been able to get back to work on this project. Little bits at a time for now. I am fortunate to have a caring wife ... who makes sure to give me the stink eye if I am over doing it a bit! Thanks once more for the encouragement ... it really helps.

:tu:

Anyhow, it feels SO GOOD to get back to work. My attempts at comedy failed horribly, so I've learned to keep within my station ... as some Dave Mathews song says ... "even the monkey knows to stay in his fucking tree!".

8-)

Lots to work out, many notes need to be gone over to remind me what I was doing and where I left off. Good thing this thread seems to have survived the new forum software, and good thing I am a prolific poster ... those posts in this thread will be very helpful for getting my mind wrapped back around this thing.

Meanwhile there are one or two other projects that also require attention (one is for a member here). AW SHIT! .... hold up, there I go again .... take it easy there big shooter ... one thing at a time!

Geez...

:roll:



;)
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5U PROJECT - (skip pages 4 through 6, boring junk) ... https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=

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Re: MU: Super Mini Modular synth project construction journal.

Post by Eric the Red » Sat Jun 13, 2020 1:18 pm

Yay! Looking forward to your update
Abandon all hope, ye who wiggle.

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