Tocante Studworth

[Kawouddd]

I would not recommend it as a first ever ever diy. Like if you never soldered before. There are quite a lot of components on these, and the soldering is not the easiest. But maybe third or fourth project? Do a distorsion or tremolo or two first. You could use them on your tocante later

How about a Gieskes to begin with, warming up to a Tocante? .....

If your into ciat lonbarde why not try with some paper circuit pcbs, cruxfx sells some great ones. The rollz 5 would be a good build to start with

Looks fantastic. Us based and so more complicated / additional postage, but I have been looking for CL PCBs!

I have ordered the studworths. And a Gieske. And a Bastl something or other.

[bibleblack]

The paper circuits are CL, https://www.ciat-lonbarde.net/paper/, if you haven't come across them its really worth checking out as you really get to see Peters designs in action.

[d42kn355]

[maxpalax]

Nice vid d42kn355!
I had a transistor backwards. I fixed it and now pitch seem more stable. I have an issue with power though. The battery is supposed to disconnect with an unpowered plug, but it does not. With dc connected i have 12v over the battery terminal. What am I doing wrong here? I dont have solar panels yet. Also leds does not light up. Shuld they? I used other standard leds and not the ones in the bom.

manual says:
//The power jack, PN# 163-4302-E, has three wires.
//Its connect symbol thus has three pads, one for 12v positive,
//that is at the top of its pointy head. The
//other two pads are battery switch and ground.
//they are left and right respectively, below positive.
//With no power plug, battery should connect to ground.
//With a power plug, battery should disconnect.
//You can check this with an unpowered plug.

[T. Jervell]

It doesn’t matter if the solar is installed. The battery should disconnect when there is a plug present in the power jack. Maybe you should double check the wiring?
Also I’ve just finished my Bistab build today. No lights in the LED’s yet, but I think they might light up only when the batteries are charging? I don’t know....

[T. Jervell]

It doesn’t matter if the solar is installed. The battery should disconnect when there is a plug present in the power jack. Maybe you should double check the wiring?
Also I’ve just finished my Bistab build today. No lights in the LED’s yet, but I think they might light up only when the batteries are charging? I don’t know....

Seems my hypothesis was right! It lights up when its charging

[Kawouddd]

Four builds in, and at least two of them work. Going for a studworth next! Nearly all components have arrived, and I’m hoping that by the time one is nearly built I’ll have developed enough confidence to sub THE SPEAKERS THAT WONT ARRIVE UNTIL OCTOBER

Edit: I think I got the last three. Patch point went out of stock as soon as mine shipped! Propitious! (Also: best not duck this up, ay).

[Kawouddd]

Can I ask if anyone has spare stock from their builds, specifically of the three components below? Happy to pay over the odds. I have mouser stock ordered but have not been able to find any of these anywhere, short of a $36-45 delivery charge for the inductors (and on a minimum order of 40, if coming from the US).

I’m not expecting success but this seemed like a good place to ask! Viable sub suggestions also welcome. Cheers!

665-AS06608MRR
AS06608MR-R
.5W 380-7500hZ SLDR
PUI Audio Speakers & Transducers

652-RLB9012-103KL
RLB9012-103KL
10000uH 10% .17A
Bourns Fixed Inductor

161-164SP-EX
Snapin Mnt Mini Jack
Kobiconn Phone Connector

[Clemdu]

Hello!

I'm building the 3 pack as well.
The speaker is in stock at digikey, but not the inductor.
(And I'll be been picking another part for the jack, maybe 54-00080.
Any luck for the audio amplifier NJM2073D ?

Clem

[d42kn355]

Hello!

I'm building the 3 pack as well.
The speaker is in stock at digikey, but not the inductor.
(And I'll be been picking another part for the jack, maybe 54-00080.
Any luck for the audio amplifier NJM2073D ?

Clem

The Inductor is in stock at Arrow - pricey shipping though.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/rlb9012-103kl/bourns

2073's can be obtained on eBay.

Jack just needs to be a mono 2 pin. ^_^

[maxpalax]

You should be able to find a sub for the inductor. 10mH, 100mA says the manual. The one suggested in the BOM is 10mH, 170mA. This one was the closest i found on mouser at the time i ordered: https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/994-RFC0810B-106KE.
2073 I got on ebay. There should be plenty. NJM or JRC does not matter.
I didnt like the speaker in the BOM so much so i did not get it. However it is light and small and has good sensitivity at 84dBA. You could try any 8 ohm with a resonable sensitivity, maybe 2" - 3". I got a Visaton fr58 8 ohm that sounds nice. Output is maybe a little lower than id like (81dBA). Also tried a fostex 3" full ranger and it Sounded so sweet! unfortunately too big and heavy for my case. You are not going to get a whole lot of bass due to baffle step, and the speaker enclosure will likely be less than optimal If you place the speaker on the top side and play it laying on a larger flat surface (like a table) it would probably help the lower frequencies a lot.

[maxpalax]

No success! I have done all three except for tuning caps. All three works and sounds, but have the same issue with dc power. I have disconnected the dc jacks and tested them outside the circuit. They work fine. Without the shorting dc jacks connected battery power should not work, right? However mine do...
I have full 12v at the battery with dc connected, but not the other way. with battery power there is no voltage across dc + and ground. There is however 1,5v between switch and ground. I use a 9v nimh battery. I have checked diodes and other components, but i cannot find any error...

[Kawouddd]

Thanks all! Hugely appreciated the advice. Approaching a completed BOM!

Edit: and yes, I found the 2073 on eBay too.

[Kawouddd]

How are you making your cases?

I am tempted to get into joinery.

[Kawouddd]

Extraordinarily excited by the delivery of 470k resistors just now - this will be an afternoon of building!

[Kawouddd]

Any chance someone could upload a pic of a fully populated underside, from any of the boards? I have not yet hit difficulties but anticipate some (eg with hairy capacitors).

Cheers!

[T. Jervell]

Bistab and Phashi or rather the other way around

[T. Jervell]

Re: case, I’m just using generic pre-made boxes atm. Went to the beach the other day and found a Nice big piece of driftwood that I took home. I plan to carve/build cases out of this in the future. But too much on my plate at the moment, so I’m gonna have to wait with that....

[Clemdu]

Hello!

Thanks for your various answers.
All the electronics have been now ordered, so I expect to start soldering soon! (Of course I'll need to wait anyway for the few eBay parts...)
And I've been starting to carve a case, as a test to see how hard that is... It wasn't too bad and I'm quite happy with the result so far, so I'll pro anly do that for all 3.

What kind of scales are you all going for? Regular green/redd scales or custom?

[Kawouddd]

Bistab and Phashi or rather the other way around

Thank you!

As a massive n00b, can I ask - is it coincidence that your caps are MASSIVE AND GREEN, and not small and yellow like the ones I have received? Hoping so!

Can I also asked what you used for NPNs? (Assuming the universe wasn’t out of stock of Pete B’s recommended ones when you ordered...) I have gone for the same specs but hfe800. Which I’m hoping is more sensible than other alternatives out there.

And, again, thank you! I feel as if I’m getting closer.

Edit: final question. Is the zener basically surface mounted? I cannot get the leads through at all, and have ended up with a surface mount, in effect, with solder fulfilling the ‘through hole’ element.

[T. Jervell]

Zener, yup I snipped the legs a bit, and made an almost surface mount soldering. Works like a charm

My green ones are just some cheap ones I got of eBay, so no worries that yours are small and yellow.

Yeah I used the NPN’s from Peters BOM. I don’t remember the specs/part number, but can check when I’m back home

[Kawouddd]

Zener, yup I snipped the legs a bit, and made an almost surface mount soldering. Works like a charm

My green ones are just some cheap ones I got of eBay, so no worries that yours are small and yellow.

Yeah I used the NPN’s from Peters BOM. I don’t remember the specs/part number, but can check when I’m back home

Thank you. The NPNs are out of stock worldwide! I’ve subbed in some with a higher hpe (all other specs match) and hope that’ll work!

[Kawouddd]

Right, latest query

What are the two big caps on the end? 104 / 100000pf / 0.1uF (based on 10n = 103 / 10000pf / 0.01uf)

These aren’t in the BOM, are they?!

Thanks!

[T. Jervell]

Ah! I see. Didn’t know that they were out of stock. The plastic caps are not in the mouser BOM. I got those from eBay(again...). And yes you are correct they are 104.
Looking forward to see your builds

[T. Jervell]

No success! I have done all three except for tuning caps. All three works and sounds, but have the same issue with dc power. I have disconnected the dc jacks and tested them outside the circuit. They work fine. Without the shorting dc jacks connected battery power should not work, right? However mine do...
I have full 12v at the battery with dc connected, but not the other way. with battery power there is no voltage across dc + and ground. There is however 1,5v between switch and ground. I use a 9v nimh battery. I have checked diodes and other components, but i cannot find any error...

Seems I jumped the gun in my earlier reply. I was sure that there was no power from batteries when I inserted DC connnected but when I checked my newly built Phashi this was not the case. So I double checked my first build, and it doesn’t work there either.... So I dunno. Seems like you’ve checked everything, so that leaves me a bit clueless. Anyone else experienced this? Or did you solve it maxpalax?