Rollz-5+ Kit from Meng Qi (2014 Revision 3)
Moderators: Kent, bartlebooth
check the youtube video i posted to the ciat jam thread. well, it's just demoing only fractional thing of the whole thing. you may find ultrasound's doing its things quite similar sound to rolz5. rolzer's rolls can also modulate pitch of AvDog/Gongs, which with 'normal' rolz5 you can't do.rmro wrote:I'd be really interested in hearing any audio or any vids using the Rolzer with PB and Coco, there's not much about. I was using a Rolz-5 with a PB briefly and wondered if it was similar
maybe i'll post more video or audio in the future. oh, if my memory serves a couple weeks ago i also posted a short video of coco(to be precise, quantussy) modulated by rolzer to my twitter...
- diophantine
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Word of wisdom: do NOT buy the SparkFun 3x2 headers!
I rarely order from SparkFun, but had a few things in my cart & saw the 3x2 headers were significantly cheaper there (I'd be saving $20), compared to buying Harwin ones from Mouser. And then I bought them, and stupidly installed them without testing them out.
They won't hold your cap leads conductively! I've been trying to do a few things to my cap leads, like tinning them a bit, mangling them with pliers, etc. but I'm not happy with any solution so far.
Hope you don't make the same mistake!
I rarely order from SparkFun, but had a few things in my cart & saw the 3x2 headers were significantly cheaper there (I'd be saving $20), compared to buying Harwin ones from Mouser. And then I bought them, and stupidly installed them without testing them out.
They won't hold your cap leads conductively! I've been trying to do a few things to my cap leads, like tinning them a bit, mangling them with pliers, etc. but I'm not happy with any solution so far.
Hope you don't make the same mistake!
- salocinnomis
- Common Wiggler
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I bought these from ebay in china, received them in two weeks and they fit perfectly : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/50PCS-2x3-Pin-6 ... SwtnpXnuzx
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Howdy.
I got my 2017 PCB last weekend and I started to source based on the Modular Addict BOM. I am near certain this is the BOM for the last revision. Before I spend a lot of time extracting the BOM from the PCB, I was wondering if anyone has done this legwork and would be willing to share/post it here? I'd like to get a solid BOM going. Maybe we can get it up on MA so builders have up to date info.
I got my 2017 PCB last weekend and I started to source based on the Modular Addict BOM. I am near certain this is the BOM for the last revision. Before I spend a lot of time extracting the BOM from the PCB, I was wondering if anyone has done this legwork and would be willing to share/post it here? I'd like to get a solid BOM going. Maybe we can get it up on MA so builders have up to date info.
- corpusjonsey
- Wiggling with Experience
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- Location: Fort Collins, CO
Spend the time doing it. It helps you understand the project better and the practice helps with other builds in the future. You can do it! If you get stuck just ask.Waz wrote:Howdy.
I got my 2017 PCB last weekend and I started to source based on the Modular Addict BOM. I am near certain this is the BOM for the last revision. Before I spend a lot of time extracting the BOM from the PCB, I was wondering if anyone has done this legwork and would be willing to share/post it here? I'd like to get a solid BOM going. Maybe we can get it up on MA so builders have up to date info.
I am about 70% done soldering the resistors and I've run into an issue. I can't find where the 15k resistors are supposed to go. I feel like a dunce, but I am pretty sure these are not in this revision. Knowing me, though, I am probably not seeing the spot they fit into (I have poor eyesight). However, If they are not in this revision, then what else has been omitted? The BOM is needed to explain the changeable components, but some parts of the BOM are wrong. There is a mismatch of information that needs clearing up. It's a fun build, but the cloak and shadows part of it all is a bit weird. I could understand it if there was a schematic based off of the current revision (is there?), but I am going off of a BOM from the last revision, a PCB, and some crudely hand-drawn PB schematics that do not match this PCB.corpusjonsey wrote:Spend the time doing it. It helps you understand the project better and the practice helps with other builds in the future. You can do it! If you get stuck just ask.Waz wrote:Howdy.
I got my 2017 PCB last weekend and I started to source based on the Modular Addict BOM. I am near certain this is the BOM for the last revision. Before I spend a lot of time extracting the BOM from the PCB, I was wondering if anyone has done this legwork and would be willing to share/post it here? I'd like to get a solid BOM going. Maybe we can get it up on MA so builders have up to date info.
Anyway, thanks for any help in advance.
- corpusjonsey
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You won't need the vactrol for sure, but I'd get the other parts on the MA BOM. Study the rollz papers and decide the values you want to try for the rolls caps. I put a post a while back in this thread about ballpark roll timing with different values. Get enough different values to try. I would recommend getting extras of some parts like transistors and diodes just in case. Also be prepared to not get everything in one order. It just happens when doing projects like this. That's why I order extras of things every time so I build up a stock of parts.Waz wrote:I am about 70% done soldering the resistors and I've run into an issue. I can't find where the 15k resistors are supposed to go. I feel like a dunce, but I am pretty sure these are not in this revision. Knowing me, though, I am probably not seeing the spot they fit into (I have poor eyesight). However, If they are not in this revision, then what else has been omitted? The BOM is needed to explain the changeable components, but some parts of the BOM are wrong. There is a mismatch of information that needs clearing up. It's a fun build, but the cloak and shadows part of it all is a bit weird. I could understand it if there was a schematic based off of the current revision (is there?), but I am going off of a BOM from the last revision, a PCB, and some crudely hand-drawn PB schematics that do not match this PCB.corpusjonsey wrote:Spend the time doing it. It helps you understand the project better and the practice helps with other builds in the future. You can do it! If you get stuck just ask.Waz wrote:Howdy.
I got my 2017 PCB last weekend and I started to source based on the Modular Addict BOM. I am near certain this is the BOM for the last revision. Before I spend a lot of time extracting the BOM from the PCB, I was wondering if anyone has done this legwork and would be willing to share/post it here? I'd like to get a solid BOM going. Maybe we can get it up on MA so builders have up to date info.
Anyway, thanks for any help in advance.
A little late to the party here. Anyways I am thinking about picking up the latest meng qi PCB and was wondering if I could use typical serge style banana jacks opposed to the ones included with the modular addict PCB.
Also, on the BOM, There is a list of "variable parts". These variable parts include the hairy caps and I was wondering if these are optional parts that can be added or????
Havent built any Ciat so these were just my main concerns when it comes to buying this fairly large PCB. Thanks in advance
Also, on the BOM, There is a list of "variable parts". These variable parts include the hairy caps and I was wondering if these are optional parts that can be added or????
Havent built any Ciat so these were just my main concerns when it comes to buying this fairly large PCB. Thanks in advance

- corpusjonsey
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You can use any banana jacks you want as long as they're electrically connected to the hole on the PCB. Other jacks' solder tabs may not directly fit into the hole, but I bet they will.
The variable parts must be added. You can get connectors that can be soldered in that will let you just push in the leads of different caps in to try out different values.
Hope this helps.
The variable parts must be added. You can get connectors that can be soldered in that will let you just push in the leads of different caps in to try out different values.
Hope this helps.
I decided to dive in and ordered a Rev4 PCB from PP.
It would be really useful for me if anyone has a good image of a finished build, I need help actually identifying which are correct parts for putting the BOM together.
I'm fine doing the soldering but identifying and ordering parts is somewhat daunting right now, so apologies in advance for the deluge of questions!
It would be really useful for me if anyone has a good image of a finished build, I need help actually identifying which are correct parts for putting the BOM together.
I'm fine doing the soldering but identifying and ordering parts is somewhat daunting right now, so apologies in advance for the deluge of questions!
- corpusjonsey
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It can be at first, but it is an essential part of DIY and takes a little practice.rmro wrote:...identifying and ordering parts is somewhat daunting...
Something that most people expect/desire is to be able to order everything from one place in one go. In practice, this does not happen very often so it is a good idea to adjust expectations accordingly.
Ha thanks yep. I've realised you have to dive in there's no easy way and ultimately I guess it's liberating and the fun of DIY.
The thing which gets me is, for example I search for a part on Mouser and there's a ton of options of what seems to be the same part, it may be that they are different brands of the same thing but to the uneducated makes for a lot of confusion.
The thing which gets me is, for example I search for a part on Mouser and there's a ton of options of what seems to be the same part, it may be that they are different brands of the same thing but to the uneducated makes for a lot of confusion.
- corpusjonsey
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I know what you mean. They keep a lot of information on mouser/digikey and show you results for parts that are obsolete or not stocked. Try filtering the results by "in stock" to get a more manageable set.rmro wrote:Ha thanks yep. I've realised you have to dive in there's no easy way and ultimately I guess it's liberating and the fun of DIY.
The thing which gets me is, for example I search for a part on Mouser and there's a ton of options of what seems to be the same part, it may be that they are different brands of the same thing but to the uneducated makes for a lot of confusion.
If you go with easy to find female headers then yes they come in long strips, The simplest thing is to use those and trim them down with a pair of side cutters, maybe use a file to tidy them up a bit. I used them on my latest build, single strip for the resistors. If you hunt around you can find double row sockets that will fit the Rollz caps sections of the pcb. I am not sat in front of mine at the moment so i cant remember how many pins the Rollz section has holes for, but you are looking for something like :
https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?mai ... ts_id=1650
You can always pull the pins out of the unused sockets to make things fit better too.
hope that helps, good luck!

https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?mai ... ts_id=1650
You can always pull the pins out of the unused sockets to make things fit better too.
hope that helps, good luck!

Is there any difference to the sound of a 3-roll and 5-roll once they've been processed through the ultrasound filter?
Also, is there much difference in the sound of two 3-roll with different capacitors? Again, once they've been heterodyned by the ultrasound.
I ask as one of my projects this year is to build a Rollz-5, from the paper circuits, with the improvements from Richard / Pugix, and the tempo control for the rolls from the labrolz paper.
I figure this is the best place to get an answer to my questions, as you guys have so much experience in building the Rollz-5.
I'm going to build this on perf board, and I'm just starting to lay out the circuits. I have to decide which rolls to go for.
I was thinking 2x4-roll, 2x6-roll and 2x3 roll. Will I miss the 5-roll?
Many thanks!
Also, is there much difference in the sound of two 3-roll with different capacitors? Again, once they've been heterodyned by the ultrasound.
I ask as one of my projects this year is to build a Rollz-5, from the paper circuits, with the improvements from Richard / Pugix, and the tempo control for the rolls from the labrolz paper.
I figure this is the best place to get an answer to my questions, as you guys have so much experience in building the Rollz-5.
I'm going to build this on perf board, and I'm just starting to lay out the circuits. I have to decide which rolls to go for.
I was thinking 2x4-roll, 2x6-roll and 2x3 roll. Will I miss the 5-roll?
Many thanks!

Curious all my Rollz function but the '3' and the '5' Rollz have different behaviour. The ones along the top row pulse more like and even roll whilst the bottom row seem to be at audio rate.
The bottom ones are cool for tapping with a banana jack to inject some ultrasound chaos but wondering if they should all have a duplicate behaviour.
I used Hairy Cap values from Rolzer 1/1.5/2.2/3.3/4.7/6.8/10uf
- jersupereq
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Yup, that is normal as far as I've read, I'm about to build mine this weekend. Checkout this link for info on the even vs odd h[url]ttp://ciat-lonbarde.net/rollz5/[/url]rmro wrote:
Curious all my Rollz function but the '3' and the '5' Rollz have different behaviour. The ones along the top row pulse more like and even roll whilst the bottom row seem to be at audio rate.
The bottom ones are cool for tapping with a banana jack to inject some ultrasound chaos but wondering if they should all have a duplicate behaviour.
I used Hairy Cap values from Rolzer 1/1.5/2.2/3.3/4.7/6.8/10uf